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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Thats not how license plates work It is in other countries, not here.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:17
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Xovaan posted:Where exactly do I attach a hooked cargo net to my Bandit? Do I put the hooks under the banana seat or... Does yours still have the four posts?  I think those are for bungees.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:20
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M42 posted:Hey, do you tip a mechanic? It's my first time going to one, gotta get em tires changed (for 46 a rim I have a neighborhood friendly mechanic that works for roughly $20 an hour. I tip him to the tune of $5 an hour. I have never tipped a shop-rate $80-$100 an hour mechanic as they make plenty, and often sub the work out to a fresh UTI grad they're paying $13 an hour to gently caress up half the things they touch.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:24
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:First or second gen? Second! clutchpuck posted:Does yours still have the four posts? Nope, definitely don't have those. Welp, I think I'll just pretend I'm Zardoz with it then
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Apr 23, 2013 18:25
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That blue bar sticking out directly behind the blinker is also for bungees
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Apr 23, 2013 18:33
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My bike has mount holes for my cargo net in the back, but nothing in the front. It does have some holes in the grab bars though, so I put the hooks thru the holes then hook them back onto the net itself. It looks like that might not be possible with your bike tho, time to get creative.
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Apr 23, 2013 18:35
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M42 posted:Hey, do you tip a mechanic? It's my first time going to one, gotta get em tires changed (for 46 a rim
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Apr 23, 2013 19:01
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Nah, it's ride in/ride out. Oh and before I forget, it's probably not the best idea to change the brake fluid myself the first time, right? I've never done it before, and I don't want to gently caress up the thing that keeps me from flying into a truck.
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Apr 23, 2013 19:03
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It's not that bad. You just drain out the old and flush the new through til you see no more of the darker colored stuff. I'd recommend finding a friend with a brake bleeder though to make it easier. Have someone show you how to do it and that should mitigate the risk. You can't really gently caress it up enough that the brakes don't work it'll just have a spongy lever in my experience until you bleed them correctly. There's a ton of guides out there. Harbor freight sells a brake bleeder that isn't too robust but will do the job for like 20 bucks. Barring that you can buy MityVac's and similar if you have an air compressor.
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Apr 23, 2013 19:09
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Yeah, bleeding the brakes is pretty easy. If you have a friend who DOESN'T have a brake bleeder, that can help immensely, too. It can be a bit of a juggling act to man the brake lever, reservoir, and bleed screw by yourself.
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Apr 23, 2013 19:40
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clutchpuck posted:Yeah, bleeding the brakes is pretty easy. If you have a friend who DOESN'T have a brake bleeder, that can help immensely, too. It can be a bit of a juggling act to man the brake lever, reservoir, and bleed screw by yourself. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_6?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=speed%20bleeder&sprefix=speed+%2Cautomotive%2C197 Find the size that works for your bike. Thank me later.
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Apr 23, 2013 19:55
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I've been toying with the idea of trying to reverse bleed my brakes lately with a syringe and some clear tubing. The DRZ especially has a brake hose that curves up above the MC and could trap air. The lever will always have a good amount of travel due to a small piston but I'm curious if I can make the brakes feel better with this method than the typical draining method. I suspect it won't make any difference though. Any input?
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Apr 23, 2013 19:59
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JP Money posted:I've been toying with the idea of trying to reverse bleed my brakes lately with a syringe and some clear tubing. The DRZ especially has a brake hose that curves up above the MC and could trap air. The lever will always have a good amount of travel due to a small piston but I'm curious if I can make the brakes feel better with this method than the typical draining method. I suspect it won't make any difference though. I've never had much success with drawing brake fluid through, vacuum or otherwise. I've found that after you bleed the calipers, you can bleed the master cylinder area by holding on lever pressure and briefly cracking off the banjo bolt. This seems to work on bikes where the hose travels above the master cylinder too, and you can usually tilt the bars in a way that mitigates that. I don't know if a syringe can draw through enough fluid to get the air all the way down the lines, through the caliper and out the bleed nipple, unless you have a cartoonishly large syringe.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:08
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You don't draw fluid out, you push fluid in.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:30
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M42 posted:Oh and before I forget, it's probably not the best idea to change the brake fluid myself the first time, right? I've never done it before, and I don't want to gently caress up the thing that keeps me from flying into a truck. The job and tools are covered nicely, but besides that great advice keep in mind brake fluid is some of the best paint thinner out there. Be careful with it and cover everything around the reservoirs in towels/sheets/etc. It's really really easy for a single drop to ruin your day.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:33
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JP Money posted:I've been toying with the idea of trying to reverse bleed my brakes lately with a syringe and some clear tubing. The DRZ especially has a brake hose that curves up above the MC and could trap air. The lever will always have a good amount of travel due to a small piston but I'm curious if I can make the brakes feel better with this method than the typical draining method. I suspect it won't make any difference though. This is how the Aprilia manual says to do it. Consider detaching your M/C and hanging it from something temporarily (or having someone hold it) so that there's a straight up path for air travel. Also depending on your bleed point you may or may not have to bleed the slave cylinder in an additional step. Also to everyone thinking of these, be aware that brake fluid will destroy pretty much any paint it touches on contact, so be careful not to overflow the reservoir, cover exposed surfaces with shop towels etc.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:45
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Halo_4am posted:The job and tools are covered nicely, but besides that great advice keep in mind brake fluid is some of the best paint thinner out there. Be careful with it and cover everything around the reservoirs in towels/sheets/etc. It's really really easy for a single drop to ruin your day. This is good advice. Additional advice: Brake fluid is very hygroscopic. If you spill any on a painted surface, wipe it down immediately with a wet rag. Have that wet rag handy before you start because you'll probably spill it on something.
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Apr 23, 2013 20:54
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Once you've bled the brakes and just need to kill off air bubbles and spongy feel, close the bleeder, loosen the reservoir top on the MC, crank down the brake lever as far as you can, and tie it down with a bungie or some wire. Leave it like that overnight. In the morning you may find the spongy play gone, as the constant pressure gradually forces the air out of the system up through the MC reservoir. It can take a couple of cycles (tie it down overnight, etc.), but this can work a lot of nagging bubbles out of your lines.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:11
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I just hook my mityvac to the bleeder screw on the caliper and have my wife keep the resevoir topped off, I suck until I get clean fluid and tighten the bleeder back down. That's it.
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Apr 23, 2013 23:25
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JP Money posted:I've been toying with the idea of trying to reverse bleed my brakes lately with a syringe and some clear tubing. The DRZ especially has a brake hose that curves up above the MC and could trap air. The lever will always have a good amount of travel due to a small piston but I'm curious if I can make the brakes feel better with this method than the typical draining method. I suspect it won't make any difference though. Replace the front brake line(s) with steel braided if they aren't already.
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Apr 23, 2013 23:41
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I'm trying to sell my bike and could use some help. I've got an 07 SV650 with 3708mi on it, no accidents, clean title and everything. Relevant CL ad here. I've heard NADA and KBB are messed up for bikes. What should my opening price be and what can I expect to get out of the bike? I thought I'd get more offers but I've only gotten 2 super low ball, $100+2 snowmobiles 4 ur beik, kind of offers.
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Apr 23, 2013 23:53
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I'd put it up for $4000 and shoot for $3500 minimum sell price. These bikes are desirable and yours has really low miles and really nice tires.
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Apr 23, 2013 23:56
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obso posted:Replace the front brake line(s) with steel braided if they aren't already. Definitely do this. You can make your own SS lines pretty easily.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:57
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obso posted:Replace the front brake line(s) with steel braided if they aren't already. That's been done a while ago. In my experience it doesn't really get any better with bleeding due to it being a smaller MC of older design. I miss my R6 brakes with the Brembo type MC with a bleed nipple and all. Makes things so mindless to get them feeling rock solid.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:01
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Tamir Lenk posted:Definitely do this. You can make your own SS lines pretty easily. Ya it's pretty easy all you need is a really severe case of aspergers.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:11
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Tamir Lenk posted:You can make your own SS lines pretty easily. http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp Easy (and cheap) to have someone else make them too. JP Money posted:In my experience it doesn't really get any better with bleeding due to it being a smaller MC of older design. Nothing stopping you from swapping on one with a bigger piston. It's a fairly easy swap in most cases. obso fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 01:19
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clutchpuck posted:This is good advice. Additional advice: Brake fluid is very hygroscopic. If you spill any on a painted surface, wipe it down immediately with a wet rag. Have that wet rag handy before you start because you'll probably spill it on something.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:26
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I usually wrap the reservoir with a towel to catch anything that drips.
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Apr 24, 2013 02:14
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I had a fun ride home from work today. About halfway home, I started having issues getting past neutral into first gear. About 5 miles from home, I couldn't get into 1st, 2nd, or 5th. I was able to get it home, and found that the shifter was misaligned and binding on the outer transmission cover. Odd, but I went ahead and pushed the bike into the garage. I try to see if it'll go into neutral, and this happens: WTF, really? The shifter just FALLS OFF?! Arg. There's a post that the shifter rides on, it's part of the floorboard bracket, looks something like this:  So, because I'm apparently not allowed to have nice things, the post on my bike had pulled out of the bracket.  Any reason I can't bring this mess to a shop and have them weld the post back on? 
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Apr 24, 2013 04:02
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Because I know you were all on tenterhooks wanting to know while I languished on probation I tracked down the definitely-terminal imminent collapse of my entire front suspension to... the cover on the back of the headlight coming loose and knocking against the frame every time I went over a bump. Miraculously reattaching it also fixed the strange hesitation the suspension was exhibiting. Amazing what the power of the mind can do.
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Apr 24, 2013 07:45
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Because I know you were all on tenterhooks wanting to know while I languished on probation I tracked down the definitely-terminal imminent collapse of my entire front suspension to... the cover on the back of the headlight coming loose and knocking against the frame every time I went over a bump. Miraculously reattaching it also fixed the strange hesitation the suspension was exhibiting. Amazing what the power of the mind can do. Yeah it's easy to get carried away sometimes. I was ready to ship my engine across the country to fix a 2nd gear problem that appears to have been more of an operator problem. Good thing there's no BikeMD or we'd be out thousands fixing nonexistent problems.
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Apr 24, 2013 13:42
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obso posted:http://www.apexbrakes.com/custom.asp Sure, you can remove your existing brake lines, measure them, use that data to order new SS lines, and then reinstall the old brake lines (or let the bike sit) while you wait for the parts. Or just buy SS lines and fittings, and swap the labor/service cost for this: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6718-2-Inch-Cold-Chisel/dp/B000NPPBKG/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1366813951&sr=1-7&keywords=cold+chisel Then spend about 30 minutes cutting the lines and attaching the banjos. Much easier to get the measurements right when you work with the actual lines and routing, especially if you change anything else on the bike (e.g., handlebars) that allows/requires brake lines longer/shorter than stock. If the brake system includes any hard-line segments (my stock rear brake line was rubber-solid line- rubber) you can replace that with a single SS line, eliminating two extra banjos that might leak.
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Apr 24, 2013 15:43
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Or you could take 100% of the guesswork out of doing any of this and just order the lines from one of the plethora of companies that sell pre-made brake lines for pretty much every bike imaginable. They aren't even that expensive unless you buy crazy fancy ones.
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Apr 24, 2013 15:51
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JP Money posted:Or you could take 100% of the guesswork out of doing any of this and just order the lines from one of the plethora of companies that sell pre-made brake lines for pretty much every bike imaginable. They aren't even that expensive unless you buy crazy fancy ones. For just replacing stock lines and using the original routing, sure. Once you start changing other components, custom lines offer benefits to justify guesswork (actually, measuring).
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Apr 24, 2013 16:12
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I just got a new-to-me Givi top box, and I'm thinking of dressing it up a bit with some Plasti Pip, maybe do the top half of the clamshell in red. Anyone have any experience with doing that? I've never used the stuff. The spray cans would be fine for colour, but the glossifier only comes in a tin, when you apply it using a brush, are brushstrokes a problem on the finished product?
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Apr 24, 2013 18:53
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vwman18 posted:I had a fun ride home from work today. About halfway home, I started having issues getting past neutral into first gear. About 5 miles from home, I couldn't get into 1st, 2nd, or 5th. I was able to get it home, and found that the shifter was misaligned and binding on the outer transmission cover. Odd, but I went ahead and pushed the bike into the garage. I try to see if it'll go into neutral, and this happens: Hard to tell, is it a post or a shaft? Is it a thing that spins, or is it really just a stationary post that the rest of the pedal pivots on?
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Apr 24, 2013 19:07
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vwman18 posted:Any reason I can't bring this mess to a shop and have them weld the post back on? If it's steel I'd just clean it up and braze it myself, but yeah, that's like a 5 second job with a welder.
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Apr 24, 2013 21:52
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While riding today some guy drove up next to me (travelling about 45 mph) and yelled something about my back tire. He drove on and I pulled over to check it out. I couldn't really hear what he said, and it may have just been "your back tire is bald." But assuming I have tread, proper air pressure, and the bike feels fine riding it, is there something I'm overlooking that I should be worried about? Edit: Here's video if you can decipher what he's saying. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXxQj3OAxNk follow that camel!! fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 22:38
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alnilam posted:Hard to tell, is it a post or a shaft? Is it a thing that spins, or is it really just a stationary post that the rest of the pedal pivots on? It's just a stationary post. I asked one of my customers to fix it today, they welded it back on for me. The cost? A 12 pack of O'Doul's. It's good to make friends with rednecks.
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Apr 25, 2013 02:02
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I'm out of ideas here. 1980 CB900c, starts easily, idles smoothly, pulls pretty hard for an 80's bike. When I'm on the highway in 5th, around 70mph at 4500rpm steady throttle, it'll be cruising just fine, but kinda randomly stumble. It feels like it just loses power for a couple seconds like I let off the throttle, or like it's gas starved, but comes right back after about 2 seconds. Happens maybe once a minute. It's got new dyna coils on it, and has no problem when accelerating, so it's not ignition. Battery reads 14v at 3500 rpm. If it was a dirty carb thing, it wouldn't be intermittent, right? I've hosed the whole airbox, carb boots, intake boots, etc with WD40 and brake cleaner, and there's zero evidence of a vacuum leak. And again, wouldn't that be a constant? What else am I missing? Something with timing maybe? The auto advancer thingo moves freely like it says in the manual. I'm still leaning toward a leak somewhere, but how else can I track it down? Edit: Could a vacuum leak show itself only under highway-riding load? If so, any ideas how I could track it down? Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 03:10
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