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Zok_Smoth posted:Pretend I am literally an idiot and recommend babby's first airbrush kit. Can I get a cheap one to practice base coats and wide swathes of color before I drop a couple hundo on a quality piece of equipment? ed: Seriously, GW airbrush is poo poo. And too expensive 
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Apr 24, 2013 23:31
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While I appreciate what an airbrush can achieve, I've never once thought to myself "what I want in my apartment is a loud, power-hungry air compressor". It's by far the biggest concern I have with airbrushes.
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Apr 25, 2013 00:31
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ijyt posted:While I appreciate what an airbrush can achieve, I've never once thought to myself "what I want in my apartment is a loud, power-hungry air compressor". It's by far the biggest concern I have with airbrushes. From what I understand you can use a pressurized CO2 tank with a good regulator for the same effect, and get it filled at a brewery supply or hardware store or something.
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Apr 25, 2013 00:44
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My refrigerator is noisier and more power hungry than my air compressor.
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Apr 25, 2013 00:46
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You don't need an industrial air compressor. The one I use has a mini tank and moisture trap and is designed for airbrushing makeup. It's not terribly loud.
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Apr 25, 2013 02:50
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ijyt posted:While I appreciate what an airbrush can achieve, I've never once thought to myself "what I want in my apartment is a loud, power-hungry air compressor". It's by far the biggest concern I have with airbrushes. My compressor was 60 dollars, is the size of a lunchbox, and I can only hear it when my air conditioner is not humming. And that is when it's actively running, which it does intermittently while I work. I suppose it might be power hungry but its a normal plug so probably not more than like, my computer. Seriously, if you are picturing a big loud shop compressor it's nothing like that.
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Apr 25, 2013 03:54
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Anyone have advice on magnetizing the new Tau Broadside kit? I know someone did a grey camo one where they magnetized it, but I can't find it now. The only guide I have seen for it has people using like 1/2 in or even fatter magnets to hold those weapons up without drooping.
Slandible fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 05:05
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My concern is that I live in a small 2-room apartment, and I'm afraid I'll stink up the place with unhealthy paint vapours.
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Apr 25, 2013 07:37
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Khorne Flakes posted:Anyone have advice on magnetizing the new Tau Broadside kit? I know someone did a grey camo one where they magnetized it, but I can't find it now. The only guide I have seen for it has people using like 1/2 in or even fatter magnets to hold those weapons up without drooping. I used 2mm magnets for the shoulders and arms. The shoulders are fine but you are not going to hold the arms on. I used paperclips as pins to reinforce the arms. Two pins close to each other will allow you to get the arms off easily while still being fairly sturdy. I will put some pictures up after work. It was the first time I did something like this so its not very pretty but it works.
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Apr 25, 2013 07:53
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ijyt posted:While I appreciate what an airbrush can achieve, I've never once thought to myself "what I want in my apartment is a loud, power-hungry air compressor". It's by far the biggest concern I have with airbrushes. You're thinking of a pancake compressor which are definitely not suited for airbrushing. Airbrush compressors are fairly quiet and small as well; I live in an apartment with units on 3 sides of me and I haven't gotten any noise complaints yet. On top of that unless you are discharging paint non-stop or have a ridiculously high PSI setting going, the compressor will eventually stop compressing when it hits the PSI limit. TheBlobThing posted:My concern is that I live in a small 2-room apartment, and I'm afraid I'll stink up the place with unhealthy paint vapours. Airbrush acrylics are virtually odorless. They have "a smell" which maybe smells like watercolors or poster/tempera paints? but definitely don't smell like spray paint or house paint. I think you would be hard pressed to find anybody who finds them offensive. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 08:32
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If you're airbrushing, wear a respirator, you can buy a good 3M half-face one for like twenty five bucks. Paint vapor isn't anything to gently caress around with, toxic or not. If you're worried about compressor noise, as mentioned above, you can easily get a 25lb tank of CO2 from your local welding or beverage gas supplier (people in rural areas may have more trouble), pick up a low pressure CO2 regulator from a homebrew supply shop, swap on a 3/8" out pipe, and have something perfect for airbrushing. It's silent, has no condensation/heat problems because CO2 is a dry gas, and a tank will last you a pretty ridiculous length of time. I've had mine for more than a year now and haven't had to refill it yet. That setup probably runs around $200-250ish plus some pipe tape and a wrench if you don't own one, with $20ish for a refill. Also has the advantage of not costing you electricity.
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Apr 25, 2013 08:49
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My girlfriend is a bit sensitive about health issues, so if I slap on a face mask while trying to convince her what I'm doing is non-toxic, I won't get to use my airbrush for long.
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Apr 25, 2013 09:36
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TheBlobThing posted:My girlfriend is a bit sensitive about health issues, so if I slap on a face mask while trying to convince her what I'm doing is non-toxic, I won't get to use my airbrush for long. Get her to wear a face mask as well. It will be a bonding time for both of you.
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Apr 25, 2013 09:47
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:a bonding time for both of you. I see what you did there. TheBlobThing - you could get/make a spray booth so that most of the vapour goes out the window.
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Apr 25, 2013 10:36
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Get her to wear a face mask as well. It will be a bonding time for both of you. She might think I've discovered a new fetish, and run screaming.
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Apr 25, 2013 10:39
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TheBlobThing posted:She might think I've discovered a new fetish, and run screaming. Or it could be something new and exciting for you both. Although beware, one minute you are wearing face masks the next minute you are both wearing full gas masks, dressed in PVC body suits with SS officer hats on your heads.
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Apr 25, 2013 10:56
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Ohhhh yes. I have plans... biiig plans for you:  I got this on eBay, the model is a 57cm Tower Crane by gearbox toys. It was around £12 including shipping. As a bonus, it is also the right kind of plastic for polycement. The first thing to do was take it to bits, then start rebuilding. This thing was put together shoddily (not an enduring toy for the kids) there were missing screws and all of one patch of glue. Made it easy for me though! I did a few plans and started on the easiest part - adding platforms to the scaffold. Each has a 2mm plasticard strip running across through the scaffold and then a 1mm sheet glued to that.  Then I reinforced it with another layer.  I detailed pieces of thinner and textured plasticard, just as I have with the rest of my buildings and started adding these.   Now that the basics of that part are there, I can work on the more fiddly bit. I want this thing to be able to move - I'm going to add control panels: Swing your ganger!  The inner ring will be attached to the cab and the outer platform will be supported by the topmost scaffolding platform with rods. 
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Apr 25, 2013 11:45
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Yes, more rivets. Give me MORE!
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Apr 25, 2013 12:05
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Pilgrimski posted:Ohhhh yes. I have plans... biiig plans for you: You are a rivet GOD! I remember when you posted those envy-inducing necromunda platforms a while ago. I wish to subscribe to your newsletter! TERRAIN CHAT:  Now that my stucco skimcoat is dry, I noticed that it didn't adhere very well. There were large cracks in areas that seemed to betray the scale look I wanted. Concrete to the rescue! I rubbed a skimcoat of concrete patcher to smooth out the more shoddy looking patches of stucco. I also smooshed concrete under the building foundation to both fill gaps and give support. This building is made of styrofoam, tape, a little elmers glue and some nails BUT the stucco alone gave the building a lot of structure. I'm sure the concrete will only further toughen it up. Making Ork landas from steel plating and a welder... making Ork homes with actual concrete... Orks rule 
Purgey fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 12:12
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Purgey posted:You are a rivet GOD! I remember when you posted those envy-inducing necromunda platforms a while ago. I wish to subscribe to your newsletter! As much as I appreciate accusations of godhood, I should probably share the secret! I use a modified punch - every Mek should have one! Take a look at here: http://www.ironhands.com/h2rivet.htm Method 2 is what I am using. (Make sure to take a look at the rest of the tutorials too: http://www.ironhands.com/h2.htm) Obviously you can get them in different sizes for different rivets. I also found that by pulling the black plastic bit off, I could look to position the hole. With a bit of practice, you can see from the distortion and discolouration of the plastic how close to making a hole you are. Seriously, one time using actual tiny pieces of plastic was one time too many.
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Apr 25, 2013 12:21
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Pilgrimski posted:As much as I appreciate accusations of godhood, I should probably share the secret! I will now rivet ALL THE THINGS!  Seriously, gently caress glueing on rivets. Its such a pain
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Apr 25, 2013 12:32
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Yeah, I use a punch to emboss rivets in metal and use cut rivets of several sizes. If you really want to get crazy fancy: http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88016.html Transfer rivets. They are expensive, but they come out amazing and can be really good for smaller applications.
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Apr 25, 2013 12:38
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I reckon we're overdue for an airbrush post that can be linked to in the OP - does anyone mind if I do it? I've got the outline all done for the airbrushing 101 DVD I did recently, and any corrections or additions can be sent to me by PM.
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Apr 25, 2013 12:47
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Ah, thanks for clearing up those compressor misconceptions I had.
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Apr 25, 2013 12:57
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So I think that I might do some more work on my completed death company marines. They are all wearing robes that are painted black but I am not fully satisfied with the painting job I did on the robes. As my fiance says, the robes are a little flat. Then I saw a Krieg commissar in this thread that really brought home how flat they look. When I did them I painted the robe chaos black and highlighted the edges with a lighter grey. Do you guys have any tips on what I should do to make the robes pop more and look more realistic. I was thinking of starting with a black base and drybrushing something like Chardonnay granite or another dark non black grey onto the robes leaving a little black in the recesses and then highlighting but I am not 100% sure. Plus I am worried about blending. I was just wondering if anyone had any techniques for black flowing robes.
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Apr 25, 2013 12:57
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jadebullet posted:So I think that I might do some more work on my completed death company marines. They are all wearing robes that are painted black but I am not fully satisfied with the painting job I did on the robes. As my fiance says, the robes are a little flat. Then I saw a Krieg commissar in this thread that really brought home how flat they look. Could it be mine?  If it is, I started with a basecoat of the darkest grey I got (VMC German Grey), Nuln Oiled it and highlighted with successive layers of lighter grey. In my experience, starting with a black basecoat ends up a bit flat, because you can't really shade it.
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Apr 25, 2013 13:10
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TheBlobThing posted:If it is, I started with a basecoat of the darkest grey I got (VMC German Grey), Nuln Oiled it and highlighted with successive layers of lighter grey. In my experience, starting with a black basecoat ends up a bit flat, because you can't really shade it.
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Apr 25, 2013 14:31
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krushgroove posted:I reckon we're overdue for an airbrush post that can be linked to in the OP - does anyone mind if I do it? I've got the outline all done for the airbrushing 101 DVD I did recently, and any corrections or additions can be sent to me by PM. I'd really appreciate something like this! I've been able do do layers on a couple of models but I occasionally see posts that make me realise I've been doing stuff wrong, and I know I'm not the only Sotar-wielding newbie here.
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Apr 25, 2013 14:43
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krushgroove posted:I reckon we're overdue for an airbrush post that can be linked to in the OP - does anyone mind if I do it? I've got the outline all done for the airbrushing 101 DVD I did recently, and any corrections or additions can be sent to me by PM. Make sure you include a link to that hour-long video by Ken from Badger. Unless that's already in the OP.
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Apr 25, 2013 14:46
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krushgroove posted:I reckon we're overdue for an airbrush post that can be linked to in the OP - does anyone mind if I do it? I've got the outline all done for the airbrushing 101 DVD I did recently, and any corrections or additions can be sent to me by PM. That would be great. I jumped on the cheap Sotar bandwagon but thus far have not really done anything with it other than basecoat and prime. The swords I've seen some people do are incredible, amongst other things.
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Apr 25, 2013 14:47
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PaintVagrant can you please put a link to this post in the OP? Okay...so airbrushes! Why should I consider an airbrush? Have you ever felt so strongly about something (like Amway, any sort of diet, a book or whatever) that anyone you tell thinks you're a crazy person, and when someone is telling you how they like to do something you can't help but blurt out "no, that's ridiculous, LET ME SHOW YOU HOW YOU SHOULD DO IT"? Well that's kind of how everyone who uses an airbrush regularly feels about their airbrush. It's hard to sound not-crazy about something that is so awesome, and it's impossible to not sound like an evangelist about something that is so helpful and great. OK, great, whatever, so what can I do with an airbrush? How about this: priming (big deal!) indoors! (ok, wow) basecoating color blending those sweet power swords that people love posting preshading - putting a shadow under the base coat for instant shading OSL (Object-Source Lighting) is easy-peasy and very quick fast varnishing changing colors is as easy and quick as with a brush EASY speed painting, if you want fast painting of vehicles with NO brushstrokes! use minimal paint shoot very thin coats (see 'use minimal paint', above) paint from an airbrush dries very quickly (see 'shoot very thing coats', above) (are you getting the idea yet that airbrushing really helps to be a quicker painter?) Alright, so any drawbacks? Well, to be honest the main drawback is cost. However, if you're happy to start with bargain-basement stuff you can get going for under $50/£40 easily. Of course you can spend a lot on an airbrush, all the equipment and a quiet compressor, but you don't *have* to when you're starting out. Why this post? Every couple of weeks someone asks 'what should I get?' or 'I have this problem, what do I do?' or something along those lines, and the same answers get repeated over and over pretty much. To circumvent all that and help you goons out, here's a ton of info for you. Read through this, find the relevant information (like 'what airbrush should I buy' or 'I have this problem') and then post in the thread if you have any advanced questions. Is there a video I can watch that has everything in it a wargaming painter should know? Yes! If you have an hour to kill, watch/listen to the video below from the owner of Badger, Ken. It was filmed at a wargaming convention and is a seminar he does (yes to promote Badger airbrushes, so what, they're great) and is specifically geared towards wargaming painters. It covers just about every that is in the outline below the video, and in fact much of it formed the basis of the outline info. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw The outline below is what I wrote up to cover all the basics for an airbrushing basics DVD I did. It covers the basic way airbrushes work, how to choose your first airbrush, how to set up your painting area and with what equipment, plus how to clean your airbrush and do some basic troubleshooting. I'll be filling it in with more info over the next few days, so be patient! AIRBRUSH DETAILS How an airbrush works 1. where paint goes inside the brush: into the inner chamber where the needle rests 2. where air goes inside the brush: into the outer chamber which surrounds the paint & needle chamber 3. press trigger for air - push further down for more air (up to the pressure you've set from the compressor) 4. releasing paint i. single action brushes have no forward/backward motion on trigger, so simply press down and air is released and the air pressure pulls paint from the inner chamber, mixing with the air and paint is sprayed out of front of brush. You can adjust the needle manually (e.g., not with the trigger but with a dial control on the back of the brush) to decide how much paint comes out ii. double action brushes control air pressure and the needle, so as you pull trigger back AND press down on trigger the needle is pulled back and air flows from outer chamber, mixing with the air and paint is sprayed out of front of brush Mix 1. internal mix - air and color mix and atomize inside to spray out, finer dot pattern (‘hi-res’), good for large surfaces and tiny detail 2. external mix - mixes outside the body of the brush, larger dot pattern ('low-res'), no good for detail work, bottom feed only, only good for large surfaces like automotive work Action 1. single action - easier to learn, generally cheaper, fine for applying single color to relatively large surfaces, basically a very finely tuned spray can, limited to basic techniques 2. dual or double action - can control paint flow, can do all basic techniques, gradiations of color density, line varying while spraying Feed 1. gravity feed - ideal for detail work, wargaming, scale models i. advantages: best for detail work, lower pressure required, gravity does the work, paint goes furthest with gravity feed, less parts, easier to clean, quicker color changes, uses a very small amount of paint ii. disadvantages: paint cup limits size of color available, some models have interchangeable paint cups 2. siphon/bottom feed - for spraying large amounts of color, fabric, canvas work i. advantages: general-purpose airbrush, best for spraying large surfaces or amounts of paint, can purchase muliple paint jar caps to fit paint bottles direct to brush ii. disadvantages: higher pressure requires faster spraying and passing, less control, uses more paint, more to clean 3. side feed - used to be mainly for photo retouching because it doesn’t block view, now used mostly for car detail work - uses a cup or jar attached to side of body i. has some advantages and disadvantages of both gravity and siphon feed AIR SOURCES Canned air - cheap initially, variable pressure as you use it, don’t consider! £8/$8+ CO2 or storage tank - silent, can last a long time, but high initial cost plus need to refill, £50/$70+? Compressor - diaphragm type is loud, piston is quiet, look for model w/ at least 30 psi, £30/$30+ ‘shop’ compressors - may require oil, loud, may require long hose and adapters, £100/$75+ Compressor with tank - best option if painting often, the tank saves wear on motor, some users claim no ‘pulsing’, £80/$100+ 'You must get one with a tank to stop the pulsing' - this is a myth, see the video above Choice depends on how often you’ll be using your airbrush - 1-2x a month, get cheap compressor; 1-2x a week, get a brand name with a tank HOSES & REGULATORS hoses 1. avoid vinyl hose - kinks very easily 2. coiled hose - keeps out of the way 3. clear hose - with barbed or clamp connectors 4. braided hose - most durable, most recommended 5. Iwata connector to fit Badger models (some Badger brushes come with the adapter - check the specs before you buy) 6. use plumber's Teflon tape to secure threaded fittings 7. quick-disconnects speed up brush changes if you have 2 or more brushes moisture trap 1. Why? compressor will become warm and push out warm air, which has water vapor in it - when the air cools, the moisture becomes liquid. The trap holds the moist air and keeps it from going down the hose 2. Get one with a gauge - if doing static model work, get one with marks every 2 psi rather than every 5-10 psi 3. if compressor is equipped with a tank, the tank acts as a moisture trap (but *must* be drained every 1-2 months to prevent rust) 4. best location is 18”+ away to let air cool 5. in-line moisture traps are available for braided hoses (must sit vertically) 6. multiple traps are good for humid or damp areas regulator 1. ideally, use regulator on moisture trap for air pressure VENTILATION Minimum: good airflow, large room (or outside if possible) & dust mask Best: open window, strong fan & activated carbon filter mask (painter's mask from 3M or similar) remember that pets & children won't be wearing masks, so keep them out of the area while you are painting WORKSPACE SETUP compressor setup & hose routing - depends on noise from compressor: if it's loud, use a long hose and keep the compressor in a different room or closet to contain the noise airbrush holder - ideal for when you have an airbrush with paint in it, most cleaning jars have a built-in holder cleaning supplies - water, airbrush thinner for acrylics, mineral spirit for enamels, cleaner jar, bottle, kitchen towel, cotton tips accessories - pipettes/droppers or straws, brushes, mixing cups, different size siphon jars, siphon jar filters, inline moisture traps, multiple hose connectors, QD connectors and hoses paper, cardboard or scrap material for testing tape - generic tape, modeling tape (Tamiya brand), teflon tape for connections safety - respirator, spray booth/fan, open window, nitrile gloves if holding parts old drink bottle or food container with lid to dump paint into clean water jar and thinner consider your working temperature - colder: spray farther back; warmer: spray closer so paint doesn’t dry before hitting surface CHOOSING AN AIRBRUSH now that you know about the extra equipment you will need, no one ‘right choice’ needle size choice - get appropriate size for your needs, make sure to get correct nozzle/needle head quality - brand names & make - you generally get what you pay for (like with anything) don’t get attached to one brand or model...but consider sticking to one brand because of shared spare parts spares - make sure you can get replacement or optional needles, tips, heads, cups, etc. 'best choice' is one for large surfaces, plus one for detail if only one brush is possible, then get the best your budget can afford - remember to get what fits the application you will be using it for try one out to paint if possible, or at least hold one if you can (a friend's brush, or in a shop) consider future needs & what you might be doing in the future - buy for the future with advanced features if needed Budget guidelines i. up to £20/$30: copies of popular models, quality can vary widely ii. up to £50/$75: best choices are probably mid-budget Badger like the Patriot or the Neo from iwata - these have brand name support and good warranties iii. up to £100/$120: brand name (Badger, Iwata, Harder-Steenbeck, Thayer & Chandler, Grex), top quality budget models w/ good warranties, Teflon coating, etc. iv. £150+/$175+: professional-quality, designed for daily use all day, more rugged and more features v. extra cost buys you better reliability, smoother action, factory warranties, easy spare parts availability and better consistency with the airbrush if you’re just starting out, get a cheap model or borrow airbrushes and see what you like and don’t like the ‘best’ airbrush is the one that fits the job you have at hand, that you find works reliably PAINT Stirring or blending is best to keep pigment suspended in paint medium for consistent paint each time Thinning i. how thin - start with consistency of skim milk and thin/thicken as necessary* ii. what to thin with - same-brand thinner or water (if acrylic) - distilled water if storing Acrylics - non-toxic, water clean-up and thinning, can be more susceptible to tip dry Enamels, lacquers, urethanes, etc. - requires thinner, airbrush must have thinner-safe parts (Teflon-coated parts, no rubber, etc. - name brand airbrushes are used in automotive painting so are generally safe exposed to lacquers and thinners), easy to clean with thinner Where to mix - jar if bottom-feed, small mixing cup if gravity-feed *skim milk is just the starting point - your mileage WILL vary depending on brand of paint, needle size, air pressure and more, so you will have to experiment and keep mental (or written!) notes about how much to thin various paints for what you're doing. Your paint when spraying OSL at below 10psi, 2 inches away from the model, will be much thinner than when you're laying a base coat at 30psi, 12 inches away. BASIC TECHNIQUES - practice on cardboard or old models some beginner techniques to get you used to your airbrush 1. base coating large area 2. dots - various sizes 3. squares - connect the dots with short straight lines 4. lines - longer lines to get used to spraying long lines 5. dagger-strokes (thick-to-thin lines, thin-to-thick lines) 6. circular or curved lines - draw curved lines on paper and try to follow the line (as if it were a panel line on a vehicle) 7. circular dagger-strokes - more advanced, lots of movement! 8. gradients and fades - can be harder than you think, practice fading one color into another 9. practice, practice, practice! Base coating - priming, large areas 1. 25-35 psi depending on type of airbrush and thickness of paint Detail work - finer tips, thinner lines 1. lower psi, 15-20 or even lower (even 4 psi) depending on airbrush, paint and width of line desired 2. start with your normal psi for base coating and use a practice model if you have one 3. see how close you can get to the model before the paint starts to spider - experiment with lower psi, or thinner paint with more coats to get the effect you want 4. as always, practice (and experimentation) makes perfect Specialty work 1. masking i. tape - use Tamiya masking tape for sharp edges (use cheap tape to cover larger areas) - varnish the area first to avoid the tape lifting up tape ii. Blu Tac/Silly Putty for fuzzy/varied edges 2. stencils i. can buy pre-made flame, demon or whatever stencils ii. can buy packs of Mylar film to make your own stencils (flame templates are easy to make) 3. freehand - takes practice! but a great technique to master 8. pre-shading - black into panels or shaded areas before base color Protecting - varnishes Future Floor Wax or Kleer/Pledge can be shot straight through the brush - let dry after spraying and put another coat on before using oil wash or applying matte varnish CLEANING color changes and basic cleaning 1. dump or spray out old color 2. rinse cup with cleaner & paper towel 3. spray out 2-3 drops of cleaner 2-3 times 4. spray a few ml cleaner into cleaning station 5. siphon feed - keep a bottle with fresh/clean cleaner/thinner for spraying out backflushing useful when you haven’t cleaned properly in a while 1. for bottom feed, the cleaner bottle used for backflushing is the backflushing bottle from now on 2. for gravity feed, a few drops of cleaner in top is all that is needed, then dump out 3. then use the same basic cleaning steps ‘end of painting session’ cleaning 1. flush out with cleaner 2. remove needle carefully and clean (carefully) 3. wipe out paint cup/siphon tube completely 4. clean up outer body and reassemble if trigger is getting ‘gunky’ - if not cleaning properly, or maybe after several days or a couple of weeks 1. first do basic cleaning steps 2. follow manufacturer’s cleaning suggestions - do not disassemble if they recommend not to! 3. remove needle and nozzle assembly: paint tip & spray regulator - the only parts that come in contact with paint 4. put small parts in thinner, isopropyl alcohol, ultrasonic cleaner or glass with fizzing denture cleaner, let soak for an hour or two 5. inspect needle, use cloth with cleaner to take paint off or fine steel wool - be careful to work with needle between fingers 6. cleaning kits and brushes are not necessary 7. reassemble 8. if paint is inside the body of airbrush it will probably need factory inspection 9. brushes and pipe cleaners sometimes not recommended by manufacturers because they can scratch the inside, causing problems, but they can be useful for cleaning siphon tubes, etc. d. explain again that complete disassembly is almost never needed PROBLEM SOLVING Spidering - spraying too close, paint too thin, trigger open too much and/or pressure too high fix: add undiluted paint, spray farther away, don’t pull trigger back as far, check air pressure Bubbles in cup - most common cause is head or tip clog, air is not flowing normally and forced into paint cup fix: clean tip, thin paint properly, watch needle during painting for paint build-up Tip Dry - paint starts to spray off-center because of tiny bit of paint on tip of needle - ‘tip dry’ fix: clean and lubricate needle using needle lubricant, don’t take breaks without cleaning the airbrush properly, often confused with clogging, replace needle if bent Tip dry will happen much more often with acrylic paints, especially when spraying slightly thicker paint or at low psi gritty paint - spraying too far away, paint is drying before contact with surface runny paint - move the brush smoothly using passes, spray from further back paint coming out with trigger at ‘zero’ (without pulling the trigger back) fix: re-seat needle into tip spatters while painting - water in air hose fix: get a moisture trap installed, move trap 18-24 inches from compressor, add another moisture trap on braided hose spatter at start of paint - needle left on tip after last pass fix: spray onto glove or scrap material check air pressure regularly after first setting up, could find leaks Quick and dirty info on CHEAP BADGER SOTAR AIRBRUSHES - why so cheap, when airbrush suppliers can list this at $400+? Badger don't use a 'minimum advertised price' policy, so sellers put the price at whatever they want. Some sell it high prices, but Amazon bought a huge quantity and have been flogging them for $75 or so for several months now and goons have been jumping on the bandwagon. It's "a lot of airbrush" for babby's first airbrush, but it's a GREAT airbrush. The only thing it might not do as well as other airbrushes is large area coverage (think very large terrain pieces), but other than that it's a great airbrush, especially at $75. Details on the Sotar: it has the same internals as the Renegade (which is a great brush also), it just has a different shape to the outer body because it was designed for illustrators used to technical pens, and the Renegade series were designed for scale model builders used to thicker brush handles. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 15:01
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here's a selection of videos showing how some of the most popular miniatures painters online use their airbrushes Preshading vehicles (also shows pinwashing starting at 2:00 and pigment use starting at 3:05) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLLIzv3AK6o You can skip the highlighting step and still get a great-looking vehicle with just a wash and some drybrushing Painting large areas of flesh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PIFtCipLpA Daily airbrush care (cleaning it after you're done for the day/night) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9plBA1BITmY krushgroove fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Apr 29, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 15:14
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I am a complete idiot when it comes to airbrushes, despite following this thread. Can any of you masters tell me if this Compressor will work with my Airbrush. My dad got me the airbrush a long time ago and I just uncovered it while clearing out clutter from my closet. Do I need any sort of extras?
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Apr 25, 2013 15:30
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I am a complete idiot when it comes to airbrushes, despite following this thread. Can any of you masters tell me if this Compressor will work with my Airbrush. My dad got me the airbrush a long time ago and I just uncovered it while clearing out clutter from my closet. Do I need any sort of extras? Some Badger brushes come with an iwata adapter, since it seems most hoses come with iwata fittings at one end. But not all of the Badger brushes come with the adapter. Have you tried connecting the brush to the hose? You'll need plumber's Teflon tape from a DIY store regardless.
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Apr 25, 2013 15:43
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TheBlobThing posted:My girlfriend is a bit sensitive about health issues, so if I slap on a face mask while trying to convince her what I'm doing is non-toxic, I won't get to use my airbrush for long. It's not as much chemical toxicity as much as particle inhalation, which is a (potential/theoretic) danger. Those particles won't really get into your apartment, they will however go into you face and settle on you or in your lungs. I have a spray booth with extractor (like this http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/expo-tools-airbrushing-portable-spray-booth-p-22052.html)which helps a lot, but I can still feel stuff going into my face so I'm going to get a respirator as well. You can see the setup once our Zuzzy mats are here 
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Apr 25, 2013 15:45
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Yep, that is the commissar I was talking about. Thanks man, I really appreciate the tip on how you painted it like that. The model looks great by the way.
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Apr 25, 2013 15:59
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TarDolphinorShark posted:I am a complete idiot when it comes to airbrushes, despite following this thread. Can any of you masters tell me if this Compressor will work with my Airbrush. My dad got me the airbrush a long time ago and I just uncovered it while clearing out clutter from my closet. Do I need any sort of extras? Yes, but you will need an adapter to connect the hose to the brush. There's a lot of adapters but they are all like 5 dollars or less, so it's best to simply buy the stuff you want, and then when you actually have it in your hands, see what adapters you need.
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Apr 25, 2013 16:07
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HardCoil posted:It's not as much chemical toxicity as much as particle inhalation, which is a (potential/theoretic) danger. Those particles won't really get into your apartment, they will however go into you face and settle on you or in your lungs. I have a spray booth with extractor (like this http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/expo-tools-airbrushing-portable-spray-booth-p-22052.html)which helps a lot, but I can still feel stuff going into my face so I'm going to get a respirator as well. Cool, thanks man. Looking forward to it. Problem is, she has asthma, so her lungs are sensitive to foreign particles + it's a small apartment. I'll try and see if any of your arguments can strengthen my case and soothe her a bit, but I'm not holding out much hope. It's a small apartment. jadebullet posted:Yep, that is the commissar I was talking about. Thanks man, I really appreciate the tip on how you painted it like that. The model looks great by the way. Thanks. Glad I could help. It's the first time one of my models have been an example of something others can use, so I'm quite flattered. Also, German Grey is a beautiful grey colour. It has a tiny bit of blue tinge to it, that really makes it look dark and velvety. I can really recommend it for black models. Oh wow, look at me going all  over a paint.
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Apr 25, 2013 16:09
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TheBlobThing posted:Cool, thanks man. Looking forward to it. Problem is, she has asthma, so her lungs are sensitive to foreign particles + it's a small apartment. I'll try and see if any of your arguments can strengthen my case and soothe her a bit, but I'm not holding out much hope. It's a small apartment. Do you have a balcony you can paint on, or an open window you can paint by (with a box fan pulling the air out)?
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Apr 25, 2013 16:16
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krushgroove posted:Do you have a balcony you can paint on, or an open window you can paint by (with a box fan pulling the air out)? We have no opening windows, only a door to our balcony (stupid Scandinavian modern architecture!), where it usually is very windy and/or cold, so painting outside is probably not the best solution. This is our living room/kitchen (the kitchen is to the left. Excuse the mess, it's been a rough week). The only room we have for hanging out in. I could open the door and lead a hose out to the balcony, and paint when my significant other is out of the house, but I usually sit at the white table while she sits in the sofa, so you can see how space is a limiting factor. 
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Apr 25, 2013 16:33
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