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Bad vacuum petcock or petcock failing to flow enough fuel at freeway usage?
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Apr 25, 2013 03:27
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 06:18 |
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^ this. Also, my friend's old Ninja had an issue with a vacuum leak at his coasting enricher. I can only assume that creating a lean or rich condition in a tall gear ratio would create or worsen a flat spot in an RPM range if there was an issue surrounding such a type of vacuum leak but my knowledge of carbs is limited to YLLS so
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Apr 25, 2013 03:40
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I'd check the petcock.
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Apr 25, 2013 06:48
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Stuck accelerator pumps can actually cause bogging when letting off the throttle that you wouldn't see when ramping up, either. What's your mileage like? Also, simple question, but what condition is your chain in? Hard links can cause really weird loving issues that you'll only see when the chain is under certain stresses.
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Apr 25, 2013 09:05
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Z3n posted:Bad vacuum petcock or petcock failing to flow enough fuel at freeway usage? Brand new petcock on this bike, so I didn't even think of that... It's a direct on/off, no vacuum switch. I'll try taking out the filter and running directly vertical to the carb. Right now, it's got a horizontal section cause of the filter. Clear tube, so I can watch the gas flow down pretty quick when I switch from off/on in the garage, but maybe it's different at speed. Geirskogul posted:Stuck accelerator pumps can actually cause bogging when letting off the throttle that you wouldn't see when ramping up, either. What's your mileage like? Wouldn't an accelerator pump only affect the closed to part throttle? This stumble happens at steady throttle as well. If the petcock thing doesn't work, I'll check it when I pull the carbs. No chain, the 900 Custom is a shaft drive.
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Apr 25, 2013 15:09
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Where's nero...I bet it's the fuel filter.
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Apr 25, 2013 15:39
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Z3n posted:Where's nero...I bet it's the fuel filter. It's a honda, I refuse to work on those. And that someone's tried to modify the fuel system on. He can rot in hell. (yeah, it's probally a fuel filter.) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 15:48
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A couple wild guesses: A stumble at higher speeds might be vacuum lock in the tank, but not really sure since you seem to recover. I think fuel starvation like that would get increasingly worse until you stopped or vented the tank, not be intermittent as you describe. v0v It might also be a mixture issue at mid/full throttle. If you're too rich at the upper throttle end, you might be fouling a plug slightly, that plug misses a couple ignition cycles, then you burn off the carbon fouling as you ease back to the better mixture with less throttle. Have you done a plug chop at WoT? I ran into something like this once when sorting the jetting out, and found that my mains needed to drop a size.
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Apr 25, 2013 15:53
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You could try running the bike on reserve and see if it does it. I've seen petcocks flow well through one part and not another.
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Apr 25, 2013 16:42
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How do you guys know so much about motorcycles? Is this what normal people know or are you guys all mechanics? I've only been riding for a couple weeks and it's pretty fun and my 1974 cb360 runs fairly well (even though the guy at the parking garage dropped it  ) but I would like to know how to diagnose problems if they ever happen instead of just taking it to the shop all the time
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Apr 25, 2013 20:12
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Pie Colony posted:How do you guys know so much about motorcycles? Is this what normal people know or are you guys all mechanics? I've only been riding for a couple weeks and it's pretty fun and my 1974 cb360 runs fairly well (even though the guy at the parking garage dropped it You learn by working on them, reading about them, etc. Bikes arent really that complicated, and once you understand the basics, they apply to every motorcycle out there.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:26
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:You learn by working on them, reading about them, etc. Bikes arent really that complicated, and once you understand the basics, they apply to every motorcycle out there. Yup. I started with zero mechanical knowledge about 9 years ago. Learned to fix my bikes when a long time mechanic on another forum took me under his wing. Couldn't afford to have a dealership work on my bike, so it was sort of a trial by fire. From there, forums, asking questions, learning from other people's fuckups. The Garage forum on BARF is actually pretty decent overall reading.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:33
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Pie Colony posted:How do you guys know so much about motorcycles? Is this what normal people know or are you guys all mechanics For me it's about 50% I can't afford to pay for shop time and about 50% I can't resist monkeying with poo poo. You learn as you go.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:42
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Pie Colony posted:How do you guys know so much about motorcycles? Is this what normal people know or are you guys all mechanics? I've only been riding for a couple weeks and it's pretty fun and my 1974 cb360 runs fairly well (even though the guy at the parking garage dropped it I know only what I've picked up in about 3 years of having my bike. FOr older bikes, there are tons of Internet forums and poo poo with plenty of guidance. A good manual (especially the Mfc Service Manual if you can get it) helps too. Once you tinker with things and read about how you hosed up that tinkering, then tinker again, bikes are not too intimidating. Also, wrenching on bikes is pretty addictive. Not sure I could stop loving with mine. Of course, intimate knowledge of one bike may only get you half-way to understanding others. I run into that constantly ITT when I read about other bike problems. CV carbs and EFI frighten and confuse me, for instance, even though VM carbs are my bitch. To diagnose any bike though, especially an old one, just break the problem down. If the engine doesn't run, or runs badly, figure out what's missing from the trinity of (1) compression; (2) fuel/air; and (3) spark. When you explore the details of those three things, you read about or experience their foibles (especially air/fuel). FWIW - I am not a mechanic and never worked on cars or other grease monkey stuff until I got the bike in 2010. If I can do this, anyone can.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:55
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Pie Colony posted:How do you guys know so much about motorcycles? Is this what normal people know or are you guys all mechanics? I've only been riding for a couple weeks and it's pretty fun and my 1974 cb360 runs fairly well (even though the guy at the parking garage dropped it No, I'd say that as a group, the people in cycleasylum are much more mechanically savvy than your average motorcyclist. Lots of people just hand over money, instead of learning. We tend to ride bikes we like, which often means old (n8's r5, Rev's bmw), or radically tweaked machines (My GS5/650, Z3n's Racebike). Or we ride bikes we can afford, which means cheap, which means we probably bought it in a non-running state. (any of the "well i'm fixing X bike thread) Some of us are mechanically inclined. Some are not. That said, bikes are (as mentioned) pretty damned simple. And most bits of knowledge carries over. As for "learning how to diagnose a problem".. well that's what we're here for. If the bike does something funny, ask.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:56
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I'm just surprised people pay a lot of money for the basic services like oil changes, coolant, spark plugs, brakes, etc. A lot of it is pretty similar to a car, somethings are easier, some things less so. Motorcycle shops are lot less common as well compared to car shops so it's pretty inconvenient to have to travel far just to get something done. Most electrical issues are the Regulator/rectifier (Honda lol), battery, and occasional stator/fuse.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:11
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Pie Colony posted:How do you guys know so much about motorcycles? Is this what normal people know or are you guys all mechanics? I've only been riding for a couple weeks and it's pretty fun and my 1974 cb360 runs fairly well (even though the guy at the parking garage dropped it I got charged $400 for my first 'Spring Warm-Up' by the local dealership. Dropping that much for a 'mmhmmm looks good' glance and some fluid changes on a 1983 bike is a strong motivator to start educating yourself and spending the money on knowledge and tools instead. My first socket set was purchased as soon as I could afford it after I got that bill. I learned a great deal from friends with a bit of know-how, a local tool and die guy (that let me watch, talk, and learn), a local garage mechanic (that let me watch, talk, and learn), this forum, and a model specific bike forum. Things I learned: The right tool makes life infinitely easier, and keeps the jobs as small as they should be. A wrench that's close-enough really isn't and now you have to learn how to deal a stripped head, buy the right tool and a new bolt before resuming whatever it is you were trying to save a trip to the hardware store on. Take what people tell you about how long things will take, and triple it. Then don't plan anything to do for a couple hours after that, or have a plan for leaving the work as-is until you have more time. Rushing a job and learning as you go don't mix well at all. You do end up learning more though, because now you have to figure out how to fix whatever you broke due to frustration or being in a hurry. Accurate diagnosis is hard when you don't know as much as you think you know. If you find you've arrived at some very costly or time-consuming fix to a problem, then take the time to get a reasonably qualified second opinion from somebody who can put their eyes and hands on the bike. Maybe you got it right, and maybe you didn't. Odds are good the cost of the second opinion will save you money in the long run though. The internet is full of poo poo. Take everything you read and take it with a tablespoon of salt, and do what you can to verify what you hear outside of a forum. Read anything regarding oil/gas/tire/and apparently brake line conversation online and you'll get loads of different views, all of them very convincing that they're correct. Often times there is a correct answer, or at least a less-wrong one. Good luck in figuring out which is which!
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Apr 25, 2013 21:19
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Wrenching on your bike is made a lot easier when there's a dedicated forum for it (SV650 being a prime example). Eventually you just learn your bike and how to recognize certain things about it. Critical thinking and problem solving skills help, too. A while ago, I noticed my left indicator was flashing very quickly. Experience told me that one of them wasn't working. Since I could see the front one, it had to be the back. I had time to check when I got to the ferry, so I did some quick troubleshooting. I popped off the side panel where the rear indicator connectors were and swapped them. Sure enough, now the right side was flashing quick. When I got home. I removed the left rear indicator and opened it up. The bulb was blown, but the inside was rusty and waterlogged (they were cheap stop-gap indicators). That was all I needed as an excuse to buy new indicators. I also learned a lot about the rear sprocket, countershaft sprocket and proper chain tension when my chain jumped on my old bike and punched a hole in the crank case. That's when my friend's dad told me "While taking an MSF course is a good idea, they teach you how to ride a bike, not how to own one." infraboy posted:I'm just surprised people pay a lot of money for the basic services like oil changes, coolant, spark plugs, brakes, etc. When I was looking for my current bike, the dealer I was talking to said "I never work on my own bike. I always take it in." He didn't make the sale, for that reason and more. its all nice on rice fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 21:20
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Why does it cost 2x as much to change the oil on a bike vs a car at the shops? It's a no-brainer to do your own oil change on a bike.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:20
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The best thing I've ever learned is to stop taking loving shortcuts. If you think there's an easier way you can accomplish a job, you probably shouldn't do that thing. For instance, if you think you can get to a bolt without taking fairings off you'll probably be able to do it but you're stuck turning it in like 1/16 rotation increments. Take the drat fairings off and get it quick and it'll take way less time than trying to shortcut things. Do it right, do it once and it'll still probably take less time than the hairbrained shortcut. I used to try to do this poo poo when I first started working on stuff. It's hard to overcome the feeling like you're doing a bunch more work but in the end you'll probably save time and a lot of frustration. This isn't a blanket rule for all things obviously but always take a second to think "is this a waste of my time" with whatever it is you're doing.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:30
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xd posted:Why does it cost 2x as much to change the oil on a bike vs a car at the shops? Price is what the market can bear.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:32
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Every time I have gotten deeper into the rabbit hole, I sniffed around at using a shop. Bike shops, at least in my area, basically tell you to bring the bike in and wait a month until they can get to it and figure out what you need. It's even worse for older bikes. As they are expensive and involve a lot of waiting around, each time I considered one, I ended up just going deeper into the pit myself. So far, so good.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:36
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xd posted:Why does it cost 2x as much to change the oil on a bike vs a car at the shops? Shops use an oil change to get you in, then upsell you on other stuff.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:37
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xd posted:Why does it cost 2x as much to change the oil on a bike vs a car at the shops? Bike specific oil is not cheap. A change at a bike shop, or bike dealer, will be with at minimum OEM bike oil, which is $6-8 a quart. And if someone doesn't know what they're doing, they could be buying royal purple or simliar specialist oil for as much as 20 a quart. Bike specific oil IS different than car oil. Bike specific oil is produced in much smaller quantities, so is more expensive, per quart. It also tends to be loaded with the more expensive addiitves. (Zinc, etc..) Then you're paying shop rate, instead of "teen at jiffy lube" rates for the oil change. And some bikes have real tricky oil change methods. If you're only paying double, you're getting away easy. Geirskogul posted:Price is what the market can bear. The price is the price for the reasons listed above. Though yes, that does play a role. Much less of a role than you might imagine though.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:42
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JP Money posted:The best thing I've ever learned is to stop taking loving shortcuts. If you think there's an easier way you can accomplish a job, you probably shouldn't do that thing. For instance, if you think you can get to a bolt without taking fairings off you'll probably be able to do it but you're stuck turning it in like 1/16 rotation increments. Take the drat fairings off and get it quick and it'll take way less time than trying to shortcut things. Do it right, do it once and it'll still probably take less time than the hairbrained shortcut. I used to try to do this poo poo when I first started working on stuff. It's hard to overcome the feeling like you're doing a bunch more work but in the end you'll probably save time and a lot of frustration. This isn't a blanket rule for all things obviously but always take a second to think "is this a waste of my time" with whatever it is you're doing. Interestingly enough, this applies directly to software development as well.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:45
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Ooh we haven't had oil chat in a while. What's everyone use? I run Rotella T6 
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Apr 25, 2013 21:48
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Nerobro posted:Bike specific oil is not cheap. A change at a bike shop, or bike dealer, will be with at minimum OEM bike oil, which is $6-8 a quart. And if someone doesn't know what they're doing, they could be buying royal purple or simliar specialist oil for as much as 20 a quart. The JASO-approved bike oils at Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc. aren't really much more expensive than similar car oil. $1-2 more per quart typically, but you also typically only need half as many quarts as in a car (3 quarts for my bike compared to 6-7 for my car). Granted my 650R isn't a highstrung supersport that demands only the finest synthetic unicorn oil, but an oil change with JASO-spec dyno oil and a non-poo poo oil filter costs less than $30 and takes less than 30 minutes to do. Even if I used synthetic in my bike like I do in my car (at $9-10/qt) the cost would still be drastically less than my car.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:54
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Pope Mobile posted:Ooh we haven't had oil chat in a while. What's everyone use? I run Rotella T6 Same here
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Apr 25, 2013 21:59
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BlackMK4 posted:Same here Ditto
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Apr 25, 2013 22:03
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Pope Mobile posted:Ooh we haven't had oil chat in a while. What's everyone use? I run Rotella T6 Careful, the Rotella oil doesn't work so well if you have EFI instead of carbs, or have not upgraded to SS brake lines.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:09
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Tamir Lenk posted:Careful, the Rotella oil doesn't work so well if you have EFI instead of carbs, or have not upgraded to SS brake lines. If you touch that drain screw with anything but a JIS screwdriver you void the warrenty.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:14
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Nerobro posted:If you touch that drain screw with anything but a JIS screwdriver you void the warrenty. Drain screw? That's some plebeian bullshit right there.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:22
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Nerobro posted:If you touch that drain screw with anything but a JIS screwdriver you void the warrenty. Even with JIS drivers, the wrong torque settings will void coverage. If you can't find JIS bits, there's a guy in New Zealand that sells a whole kit of them. But they only work with a 13mm drive metric drive beam-style torque wrench. Don't worry, he recently began accepting Bitcoins.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:27
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Don't forget to throw the torque spec out the window if there's oil in the threads! (please don't fall out, rubber tension plug!)
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Apr 25, 2013 22:29
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Yaknow, at this point, with the crach of the bitcoin and all. I'll just take it to the dealer. Hopefully I'll get it back before it snows.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:29
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What's the general consensus on insurance here? I've been browsing and in DC, unless you want collision only, it's going to run 600-800 a year. I'm fine with taking the hit on a $2000 bike myself if I crash it, but would like to have insurance to cover 90% of the drivers here who will complain about their neck hurting if I am at fault. Any ideas on that or is this rate normal? I have my MSF and no accidents or tickets on record.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:40
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icebeam! posted:What's the general consensus on insurance here? I've been browsing and in DC, unless you want collision only, it's going to run 600-800 a year. I'm fine with taking the hit on a $2000 bike myself if I crash it, but would like to have insurance to cover 90% of the drivers here who will complain about their neck hurting if I am at fault. Any ideas on that or is this rate normal? I have my MSF and no accidents or tickets on record. If you're in DC proper, insurance rates skyrocket (or at least they did back when I lived there). In VA/MD the premiums fall dramatically (again, back in the day). Are these DC rates or VA/MD rates? Edit: also, get full coverage.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:42
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Tamir Lenk posted:If you're in DC proper, insurance rates skyrocket (or at least they did back when I lived there). In VA/MD the premiums fall dramatically (again, back in the day). These are rates for DC proper. I'm definitely going full coverage, just feel silly for paying half the motorcycle's worth a year in insurance.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:44
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I learned basic mechanics from my dad, and everything else is from the internet and my own drat fool trial and error. Mind you I still get servicing done at the dealer because it's not hugely expensive and every bike I've had has had at least one loving horrible job somewhere in its schedule, and I've got very limited space and time to work on my only means of transport. Also the recommended oil for the Shiver is loving unicorn jizz or something - 15w50 fully-synth - and putting 10w40 in has had some pretty nasty consequences for a few people.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:56
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 06:18 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I learned basic mechanics from my dad, and everything else is from the internet and my own drat fool trial and error. Mind you I still get servicing done at the dealer because it's not hugely expensive and every bike I've had has had at least one loving horrible job somewhere in its schedule, and I've got very limited space and time to work on my only means of transport. Well you shouldn't change the 2nd number, but the first you can get away with. So 20w50 should be fine; my bike uses full synth 20w50 for the engine and Harley brand hydraulic fluid for the primary (though some people use 'normal' oil for that).
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Apr 25, 2013 23:07
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