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Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but why is a car being sold in Canada right hand drive?
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Apr 23, 2013 03:37
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JDM import usually.
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Apr 23, 2013 03:38
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Augmented Dickey posted:Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but why is a car being sold in Canada right hand drive? Ya like sockington said, it's a car only sold in Japan (and UK for this one actually).
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Apr 23, 2013 04:17
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Augmented Dickey posted:Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but why is a car being sold in Canada right hand drive? Because it's greater than 15 years old, and therefore is eligible for importation (as seatsafetyswitch alluded to).
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Apr 23, 2013 16:49
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GrantC posted:Because it's greater than 15 years old, and therefore is eligible for importation (as seatsafetyswitch alluded to). It's actually 15 years and 1 month :p Manufactured in March 1998. I'm excited, it's getting registered today as well as the one concern I had about it has been resolved. Basically on the test drive I took it around a corner with significant throttle and had some steering input bounces, only happens while under power. I figured maybe the power steering was slipping or bunged up somehow but after brainstorming with the previous owner he remembered a similar thing happening when he installed an LSD into his FWD rally car 25 years ago - this STI has a helical LSD in the front and it was just locking the front wheels when we put it under force. I'll put up a video/pics when I (hopefully) take ownership of it. E: Seat Safety Switch, I'm reading a lot about the EJ20G needing the coilpack conversion, is this something needed on the EJ20K? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 17:47
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Saw this at work today.   Not shown: stripped interior
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Apr 23, 2013 21:33
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xd posted:Saw this at work today. Good old Gwinnett County. You never cease to amaze me.
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Apr 23, 2013 21:45
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Is that a 22b widebody kit?  I love the painted-over corner markers.Anyone in this thread running a JDM EJ20K? I'm trying to figure out if I need to worry about octane etc, called one shop who said absolutely you're going to have detonation problems even with 94 octane in NA, another shop said they're full of poo poo and that 94 octane is fine. I've been looking all over the internets and can't find any decent reliable information. TIA if anyone has experience with this. Edit: Oh god I just noticed the negative pressure hood feature over the intercooler... VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 21:47
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VelociBacon posted:Edit: Oh god I just noticed the negative pressure hood feature over the intercooler... I guess painting front mount intercoolers black *really does* make them invisible.
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Apr 23, 2013 22:28
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VelociBacon posted:Edit: Oh god I just noticed the negative pressure hood feature over the intercooler... E:F;B. Looks like a blacked out front mount. If it's even turbo...
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Apr 23, 2013 22:29
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Ah, should have looked closer my bad. To compensate here's a (crappy cellphone) undercarraige pic of the v-ltd. Edit: Complete with overspray on the spare tire housing. Hmm. Edit2: Sorry for big size  I'm not sure how to remove the attachment to timg it.
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Apr 23, 2013 |
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Apr 23, 2013 22:48
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That looks really nice underneath considering it's age.
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Apr 23, 2013 23:02
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That looks really clean, and my RS has factory overspray on my spare tire area thing.
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Apr 24, 2013 00:54
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Slow is Fast posted:That looks really clean, and my RS has factory overspray on my spare tire area thing. Thank you for mentioning this! I was getting nervous.
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Apr 24, 2013 01:15
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I'd like to point out three resources I have used in building my STi that have been both excellent and invaluable. I bought the car in great shape aside from a broken exhaust valve. I spent about five months acquiring parts and info before pulling and rebuilding the motor. It'a taken about six months to get it running well with both tuning and straightening out all the modifications to play nice together. I got a part time job for a repair shop at the time so that made things easier but I didn't grow up around cars and hadn't even done an oil change until a few months prior. It was a long and sometimes frustrating experience. Today I am ceaselessly impressed with the car and I am enjoying the hell out of it. I would not have made it this far as easily without help from the following people. Jamal: from this very thread! Amazing resource. He knows everything Subaru and is so fast and helpful. He has really helped me out and many others I'd imagine too. I never built a motor before and was really green in general. Jamal was happy answering my dumb and often neurotic questions. Airboy Tuning: I used a couple local dyno tuners and then attempted to tune myself for a few months. None of it was really good. I was reading the RomRaider forums and using some of the apps people had written. I thought someone like Airboy who himself wrote some great apps and had a deep understanding would work out. Hot drat did it! I am so impressed with the tune. My car isn't exactly user friendly and I thought a factory like tune just wasn't possible open-source. Not so. You just have to know your poo poo as well as theory and practical application. Just excellent results and drivability, Airboy is like the Jamal of tuning. Texas Track Works: Fort Worth TX. Track prep and alignment. This is the nicest shop I have ever been too. Not that it's extravagant, it's just the genuine article. Real car guys who know what they are doing, always a pleasure and great results. They seem to be primarily BMW lately but anyone in the area who needs a real alignment should go here. From Ferrari to Honda love these guys.
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Apr 24, 2013 02:54
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(((k))) posted:I'd like to point out three resources I have used in building my STi that have been both excellent and invaluable. Much appreciated - do you have a JDM STi? I'm not planning on doing very much to this car as it's both very fast (for me) at the moment already, and also something of a collectors edition that I would hate to spoil. I'm also terrified of changing anything and having my engine detonate because the timing didn't change properly from the japanese ECU or something like that.
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Apr 24, 2013 03:14
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Slow is Fast posted:That looks really clean, and my RS has factory overspray on my spare tire area thing. Subaru: When you really don't care about build quality.
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Apr 24, 2013 03:25
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VelociBacon posted:Anyone in this thread running a JDM EJ20K? I'm trying to figure out if I need to worry about octane etc, called one shop who said absolutely you're going to have detonation problems even with 94 octane in NA, another shop said they're full of poo poo and that 94 octane is fine. I've been looking all over the internets and can't find any decent reliable information. TIA if anyone has experience with this. It looks like most of the JDM owners here with EJ20Gs and EJ20Ks are running 94 octane. Apparently there's a tune you can get that allows you to run bigger injectors (440cc, 550cc) with common North American gas but it doesn't appear that it's available for the EJ20K engines yet.
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Apr 24, 2013 04:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It looks like most of the JDM owners here with EJ20Gs and EJ20Ks are running 94 octane. Apparently there's a tune you can get that allows you to run bigger injectors (440cc, 550cc) with common North American gas but it doesn't appear that it's available for the EJ20K engines yet. I've even heard of EJ20K tunes for 91 octane, which seems like a shame. The one shop I called (VND Motorsports in Surrey), they put this guru on the phone who was absolutely amazing, started teaching me all about fuel/octane, what he's seen work with my specific ECU's tuning, etc. I was super impressed, I've never called a shop for advice without getting something like 'just bring it in'. The guy's name was Shane, he's a presence on the local NASIOC boards as well. He recommended Chevron 94 octane. Looks like I won't be saving any money from going to this car from my 3.3L pathfinder. Really my only concern is the wellbeing of the motor, the last thing I need to to throw a rod bearing on my daily driver. I believe the max boost on these models (It's actually a v4 STI Type-RA V-ltd not a v3 like we thought)was a little higher than normal STI's and I just want to play it safe until I know much more about what's going on - or have a chance to bring it for a tune. E: also, sorry for making GBS threads up the last couple pages of this thread with google-able questions - I'm finding a lot of conflicting information from 'experts' online and value AI knowledge/experience/advice a bit more. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 05:39
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You better be sorry. Thanks to you this thread is now full of raging nerd boners of jealousy.
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Apr 24, 2013 22:24
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To get a real actual tune on that car I think you would need an aftermarket ecu. There are a couple of places that make a direct plug-in like vipec and link. Otherwise just avoid power mods like an intake or downpipe and run 94 and you'll be fine. Really nice car btw. (((k))) posted:
Thanks! Airboy is a cool guy. I might be going up there again to help my friend tune some cars in a month or so. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Apr 24, 2013 |
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Apr 24, 2013 22:59
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Roman Rambo posted:Thanks jamal. Fatter tires here I come, well once I check current strut clearance that is. I'm running Tein mono flex's (yeah yeah, don't start), but I just mounted 255/35/18 Pzero Nero's on 18x8.5 ET48's, no rubbing anywhere (and this is on an '05 STi.) No crazy camber (stock bolts with no adjustment in the rear, and about 1.8 degrees up front). I know strut clearance may be slightly different, but I can't see it being an issue, and I'm 3mm closer to the strut anyways. Lower than you will be on blacks, too - you should be golden. 
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Apr 24, 2013 23:49
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Anyone have experience doing cam seals on the EJ20? I boost leak tested my car last night and managed to pop the lower passenger side seal so bad the car isn't even driveable. Can I get away with just taking off the belt, removing the cam pulley and changing out the seal or should I just plan on retiming it? The belt was just done recently.
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Apr 25, 2013 11:50
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_adam posted:Anyone have experience doing cam seals on the EJ20? I boost leak tested my car last night and managed to pop the lower passenger side seal so bad the car isn't even driveable. Wouldn't you just put the belt on like it's a new one? I would just make sure that all the marks are still visible, as they wear off the belts pretty quick. If they are not, then you need a paint pen to add your own.
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Apr 25, 2013 14:33
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Welp I've done a terrible (amazing) thing and that's make myself seriously consider trading my tiburon gt for a wrx. Tib is nice but it's poo poo in the snow so I want dat AWD and I've wanted a wrx since they were introduced. So tell me, oh Subaru whisperers. I really want an 02-03, what should I be aware of about them? All of them are fairly high mileage (125k+), how well do they hold up, what questions should I drill the dealer with? How difficult are they to work on for someone who's pretty retarded at car mechanics but wants to learn more? It's probably dumb to get a 12 year old car, but gently caress it bug eyes are best.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:05
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OniPanda posted:Welp I've done a terrible (amazing) thing and that's make myself seriously consider trading my tiburon gt for a wrx. Tib is nice but it's poo poo in the snow so I want dat AWD and I've wanted a wrx since they were introduced. My ex had a tiburon GT and gently caress those stupid cars. The extra 2 cyls was nice on the highway, but then the dualmass flywheel died and it was more than my entire lovely legacy to fix. Common failures I've seen are bottom ends on the engine and people powershifting and blowing the gears out the box. I had a friend with a nearly stock 02 make it to 300k before he had to reshort block it, your millage may vary. They are good cars, just do the maintenance, don't over boost them, and don't abuse them too hard and you'll do alright. If you want to put an exhaust and crank up the boost and treat the car like the slut that it is, a shortblock and a spare gearbox can be swapped in a weekend.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:39
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OniPanda posted:So tell me, oh Subaru whisperers. I really want an 02-03, what should I be aware of about them? All of them are fairly high mileage (125k+), how well do they hold up, what questions should I drill the dealer with? How difficult are they to work on for someone who's pretty retarded at car mechanics but wants to learn more? It's probably dumb to get a 12 year old car, but gently caress it bug eyes are best. I'm still new to anything that isn't a econobox, but I'll throw my 2c in. Like you, I'm pretty retarded at car mechanics but I'm doing ok with my 04 and I did ok with my 05. Just have a friend that knows what they are doing check it over when you are done or if you. On that note bring said friend to help you look over the car. If you lack said friend ask it to be taken to a reputable shop to be looked over. Both my cars had 150k km+ on them and both engines are solid as a rock. EJ's are pretty tough if they are taken care of. Compression test and records would be what I would hammer him for. Really play with 1st and 2nd gear. If the car has been hard launched to many times by an idiot the gears might be stripped as the 5 speed in the early GD has the structure integrity of a wet paper bag. Run from anything with a FMIC or anything that would dramatically up the boost in the car. That said I brought two already modified cars, however I had the luxury of talking with and sussing out the previous owners. When I asked about 03-05s CT posted this, most of it should apply for the 02-03s. quote:The less mods the better, look for motorsport related wounds (if it's done any motorsport run away), if it doesnt have a good maintenace record walk away. Anyway, the cars are so bloody fun. Right now I'm planning a 3000km round trip over catching a plane solely because the car's fun factor outweighs the convenience of a flight. Speaking of which, any good roads that I should plan for between Newcastle and Adelaide? I'm already bringing along 20L of fuel and some additive incase I'm caught without premium. edit: God drat it. Thought you were shopping for a WRX. Oops!
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Apr 25, 2013 21:45
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Big thing is rust. Rust rust rust. My 2002 has started to stain my driveway orange in spots after rain showers (I think it's coming from under the sideskirts) even though there's only one visible spot of body rust. I also have an issue where rust has pushed the parking brake backing plate away from the hub and into contact with the rear rotors. I also have an oil leak on the passenger side. It's either a valve cover gasket or turbo return line, but it's dripping on the exhaust and stinks to high heaven. I need to figure out if I'm going to have all this stuff taken care of or just limp the car along until I decide to get rid of it. What surprised the hell out of me is looking at KBB today and it seems like the thing hasn't lost any value in the past two years or so.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:55
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OniPanda posted:Welp I've done a terrible (amazing) thing and that's make myself seriously consider trading my tiburon gt for a wrx. Tib is nice but it's poo poo in the snow so I want dat AWD and I've wanted a wrx since they were introduced. How do you feel about wagons? The wagons go for far cheaper and it seems like they're better taken car of. I think the people who want sedans think "rally car" where the people who want wagons think "AWD wagon with V6 power." The only difference is in the suspension, as the wagon is a little narrower; it lacks the cool fender flares. The weight difference is <100lbs, not counting all the extra stuff you can store in the back.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:45
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Amandyke posted:The AP will *not* void your warranty. So don't worry about that. Really? I was lead to believe that it did. If this is the case, then drat. Where do I order?
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Apr 26, 2013 01:11
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AlexanderCarrillo posted:Really? I was lead to believe that it did. If this is the case, then drat. Where do I order? If SOA knows that you have one, they will almost certainly deny any powertrain or ECU related warranty claim. OniPanda posted:Welp I've done a terrible (amazing) thing and that's make myself seriously consider trading my tiburon gt for a wrx. Tib is nice but it's poo poo in the snow so I want dat AWD and I've wanted a wrx since they were introduced. I'd recommend reading this post: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=587096 It'll teach you how to be nice to your drivetrain. il serpente cosmico fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 01:49
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Buy a 2006 that has had front end damage for cheaper. Replace front core support with a 2002-03, fenders, hood, etc. Realistically though, if you're buying a car of that age there should be a decent chunk of change set aside for unexpected problems. If you don't use it, money saved.
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Apr 26, 2013 04:18
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Slow is Fast posted:My ex had a tiburon GT and gently caress those stupid cars. The extra 2 cyls was nice on the highway, but then the dualmass flywheel died and it was more than my entire lovely legacy to fix. I live in Michigan, so anything local is probably gonna have rust. Lookin pretty much anywhere for one though, I'm willing to drive for it. There's one in Memphis that's high mileage (200k), but it's 1 owner. A buddy (who knows more about cars than me) is gonna go check it out for me. There's some near me that I'm gonna go look at when I get some time, but there's not many to choose from and if nothing shakes out, I'll widen my view to "newer" models. I know no matter what I'm probably gonna need to sink money into repairs cause they're old, so I'm prepared for that. Neptr, I think the wagons are hideous so that's right out :I Thanks for the words guys, gonna go back to readin this massive thread to basically convince myself even more to do this 
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Apr 26, 2013 04:56
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OniPanda posted:I live in Michigan, http://swmi.craigslist.org/cto/3733362187.html
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Apr 26, 2013 05:55
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OniPanda posted:Yeah, I just had to replace the clutch on it, the flywheel also went to poo poo and was the most expensive part of replacing it. There is also the Saabaru option...
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Apr 26, 2013 09:55
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Mercury Ballistic posted:There is also the Saabaru option... That's what I did, in Michigan. http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/3758297210.html
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Apr 26, 2013 11:47
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jamal posted:
Of course man, thank you. You guys make the Subaru world a better place to be in. bull3964 posted:
It has to be that damned turbo oil drain line. That thing has cursed me for months.It is such a bitch to get to without removing up/down pipes but it can be done if you need worm clamps on it. Could be the turbo oil feed line too. VelociBacon posted:Much appreciated - do you have a JDM STi? I'm not planning on doing very much to this car as it's both very fast (for me) at the moment already, and also something of a collectors edition that I would hate to spoil. I'm also terrified of changing anything and having my engine detonate because the timing didn't change properly from the japanese ECU or something like that.
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Apr 26, 2013 15:40
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What is the general opinion on the Michelin pilot super sport tires? They seem like a great choice for a DD but as of next week my STi will likely no longer be driven daily. I'd like to do a couple autocross events and maybe get out to the track a couple times this summer. Still a good choice? The other tire I'm looking at is the Rival. The new ZIIs are too heavy for me.
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Apr 26, 2013 18:00
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Got my front endlinks replaced, ended up buying the Rallitek HD's, which were probably overkill. They are definitely beefy and a step up from the stock ones. Install wasn't too bad even with everything rusted to hell. So speaking of overkill, I'm thinking I might pull the trigger on a turbo back exhaust for my Forester XT. If I buy a downpipe and a catback exhaust separately, do I need anything else? Do the aftermarket downpipes replace the midpipe? Should I go catless or catted for the downpipe? Pretty significant difference in cost there. I live in Ohio so I don't have to worry about smog tests. Thinking about an Invidia divorced wastegate downpipe and a MadDad Whisper catback system. Not really interested in something louder, just looking for a little more excitement in my daily driver. Edit: Almost forgot - read something this morning over at the Forester forum where people were recommending upgrading the intercooler with Stage 2 mods. Is that necessary if I never plan on going to Stage 3? LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Apr 27, 2013 |
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Apr 27, 2013 00:39
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Isn't the super sport way more expensive than the star specs? I thought that's why most people went with the dunlops.
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Apr 27, 2013 02:01
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