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For what its worth... get the biggest you can get your hands on compressor wise. I know most of us only have regular 110V in our garages, so finding the biggest compressor you can buy and use. Then you don't feel like you are going to have to upgrade so quick.
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Apr 16, 2013 08:50
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BrokenKnucklez posted:For what its worth... get the biggest you can get your hands on compressor wise. I know most of us only have regular 110V in our garages, so finding the biggest compressor you can buy and use. This is the truth. I got a 60gal unit and I'm constantly amazed at how often it needs to cycle.
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Apr 16, 2013 13:44
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BrokenKnucklez posted:For what its worth... get the biggest you can get your hands on compressor wise. I know most of us only have regular 110V in our garages, so finding the biggest compressor you can buy and use. I'm burying a second power line to the garage. 30amps@220v isn't enough juice! I bought a Hakko 888 a few months ago. It has completely changed my opinion of soldering and love that drat thing. It's like I go out of my way to find use for it.
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Apr 16, 2013 17:25
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reddeathdrinker posted:6 point Torx 55 works just fine - did my Skoda head gasket last week with one... Yep.. worked no problems. Got it at Sears. ~40 bucks for a set of 4 different sizes.
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Apr 16, 2013 21:17
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Sockington posted:I'm burying a second power line to the garage. 30amps@220v isn't enough juice! I thought I sucked at soldering until I got a Hakko station (model 936, an old version of the 888). It is an awesome station that I too look for projects to use it with. I built one of these clocks that required soldering almost 100 LEDs and it was pretty painless: http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/156
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Apr 17, 2013 03:29
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Anyone got a good recommendation for a power washer in the $250-$400 range? Longevity and ease of use are more important than POWAH (mega paint-stripping power is actually not desireable since it's sole use will be cleaning cars). Usage would be about 16 to 24 hours a week.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:25
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Splizwarf posted:Anyone got a good recommendation for a power washer in the $250-$400 range? Longevity and ease of use are more important than POWAH (mega paint-stripping power is actually not desireable since it's sole use will be cleaning cars). Usage would be about 16 to 24 hours a week. Most pressure washers in that price range are garbage; avoid them like the plague. Not only do they usually have serious problems with the pressure they generate (often way too much), it'll be made with lovely parts so it won't last. With the amount of use you're looking at, you'd be lucky if you got a month out of a $400 pressure washer.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:33
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If you can afford the downtime for going and getting a new one, just buy a cheap one and an extended warranty. Use it, break it, get another one. Rinse (literally, in fact) and repeat.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:38
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Anyone know if Harbor Freight matches their online price in store? I'm looking at this jack, but I'd rather not pay shipping and tax if I can just go pick it up. Other jack recommendations are appreciated. (Needs to be able to fit under an e46)
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Apr 18, 2013 00:27
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Larrymer posted:Any suggestions for a good 5-6" bench vise? I don't see good reviews for the HF ones or any others for less than $100 or so. I bought one of the ones I posted about. It's only 4" wide but it'll do for now. I'll find a bigger one later. Only $40 and seems like it's barely been used.   
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Apr 26, 2013 00:30
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I hear good things on the net about the Pepboys Goodyear Cordless Impact: http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9343447/ Does anyone have any personal experience to confirm/deny?
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Apr 26, 2013 15:15
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revmoo posted:This is the truth. I got a 60gal unit and I'm constantly amazed at how often it needs to cycle. my local mechanic has a trio of old gas cylinders from cars that have expired for use with Flamgas, so he hooked em all and uses them as an air compressor reserve. Think he has something like 250L of air storage now- compressor barely cycles during the day and it runs all the air lines for his servo too
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Apr 26, 2013 15:19
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Ferremit posted:my local mechanic has a trio of old gas cylinders from cars that have expired for use with Flamgas, so he hooked em all and uses them as an air compressor reserve. Both my dead HF 30 gal compressor and a dead 30 gal fire sprinkler compressor are hooked up to my actual working compressor for just this reason.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:06
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Larrymer posted:Vise crap I noticed the swivel for the vise is now secured by a bolt when it looks like it should have a quick release lever like this one:  Any ideas where I can get something like that?
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Apr 26, 2013 17:08
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So... Oil filter wrenches. Do I get the kind with a strap, the grippy pliers-like kind or a set of sockets made to fit oil filter tops? I had to remove an oil filter with the old "drill a hole, then turn the filter using a screwdriver" method, and it sucked rear end and was messy.
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Apr 26, 2013 22:16
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KozmoNaut posted:So... Oil filter wrenches.  I also have one of these, which comes in handy: 
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Apr 26, 2013 22:28
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Depends on what you're changing oil on. If it's something with a cartridge filter with a plastic cap (hopefully not the case if you stabbed it!) like my Mazdaspeed3, the end-cap tool is the only one that works. Get a metal one, I actually stripped out the square drive on the plastic one I used for my NB Miata for a long time. If it's a standard canister filter with easy access, I go for a metal strap wrench of appropriate diameter. I've never tried the pliers kind; I like the straps because in the off chance you really need to work hard to get it off, the same force that loosens the filter from the car tightens the strap around the filter.
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Apr 26, 2013 22:30
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It's very situational. If you only want it for your car, find the type you can use the best. I like the strap for my own car, but the slip-joint claw pliers for most other cars (and the turbo version of my own car). I don't use the chain style strap, mine's made of seatbelt material (from Pep Boys). If you want it for a bunch of cars or professionally, get one of each type. Not mentioned yet is the expanding spider type, but I'm on my phone so can't link one easily. The Harbor Freight slip-joint claw is only $7 and works great.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:10
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On a Jeep 4 liter engine a strap wrench works great if you're coming in from the top.
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Apr 27, 2013 01:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:Depends on what you're changing oil on. If it's something with a cartridge filter with a plastic cap (hopefully not the case if you stabbed it!) like my Mazdaspeed3, the end-cap tool is the only one that works. Get a metal one, I actually stripped out the square drive on the plastic one I used for my NB Miata for a long time. It's the filter on my Suzuki Bandit, it's on the lower front of the engine, sort of behind the exhaust pipes and sort of recessed so you can only get at one half of it. There's pretty much no room at all to get good leverage with my hands, I even tried using gloves with grippy rubber on them, but no dice. Such a dumb design, if you ask me, but I'm not sure there were really any other good placement options. Perhaps I should just get K&N oil filters from now on, the kind with a nut welded on top 
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Apr 27, 2013 09:54
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I am partial to the Harbor Freight vise-grip style oil filter wrench. http://www.harborfreight.com/locking-oil-filter-wrench-66568.html
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Apr 27, 2013 12:36
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KozmoNaut posted:It's the filter on my Suzuki Bandit, If there is enough room between the header and the filter to slip in one of those that fits over the top then that would be best. You're right tho, there isn't much room there. I think the Katanas have even less.
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Apr 27, 2013 22:34
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Post a picture, I want to see how bad it is.
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Apr 27, 2013 23:45
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My cars don't have very good side access to the filters, only top access. The only tool I've been able to use reliably is this: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-universal-oil-filter-wrench-auto-adjustable/p-02820523000P It self tightens as you try to remove the filter, without tearing the steel shell and making a mess.
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Apr 28, 2013 00:15
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Brigdh posted:My cars don't have very good side access to the filters, only top access. The only tool I've been able to use reliably is this: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-universal-oil-filter-wrench-auto-adjustable/p-02820523000P I came to post this exact tool. I don't understand people's fascination with strap wrenches, chain wrenches, etc. I've never had the need for anything else (other than the proper-fitting steel ones for cartridge filters).
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Apr 28, 2013 01:34
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This one. I've had the Craftsman one punch holes in the filter before, this style never has. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
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Apr 28, 2013 01:59
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I love my three clawed oil filter remover thing with the socket drive. The harder you turn the harder it grips. I crushed the poo poo out of the filter that was on the Fairlane when I got it. The low points from the crushing only served to give it even more traction. Of course every filter since then I can spin off with my hand. I think every PO and their mechanic is a gorilla.
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Apr 28, 2013 03:03
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Splizwarf posted:Post a picture, I want to see how bad it is.   It looks deceptively accessible, but there's no way to get proper leverage on it using my hands. And it's really fun doing while the exhaust is hot.
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Apr 28, 2013 12:35
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I'd go for the pliers, pretty long-handled ones are available.
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Apr 28, 2013 14:46
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I need an impact wrench because I'll be doing a bunch of work on my suspension in the near future. I was thinking of getting a corded one to keep the cost down, but I want to make sure I get one with enough power to actually be useful. Would something like the Dewalt DW293 7.5 1/2" be sufficient? At $159 on amazon it's easy to justify buying it over just going to a mechanic (plus I want one anyway).
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Apr 30, 2013 03:38
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Splizwarf posted:I'd go for the pliers, pretty long-handled ones are available.
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May 11, 2013 19:55
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Yeah, spiderjaws craftsman crusher thingy plus a long-handled 3/8 ratchet might do the trick. The ratchet I'd use I don't think I've seen in this thread yet: this one from HD. Similar to the HF extendable one, but it feels sturdier to me. Maybe I've just used lovely examples of the HF ones, though. It's also got a locking swivel head! The first ratchet I reach for is my 80-tooth Snap-On, if something more tricky is required then this ratchet quite often saves the day.
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May 12, 2013 07:41
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Wow, it actually stays together? I have never seen a Husky ratchet I can't break within 2-3 uses with my bare hands. In fact I finally gave up on the ones included with my Husky socket set and started using them as tuck pointers for masonry work instead of ratchets they do quite nicely.
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May 12, 2013 13:40
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How many people know about this? I have this one at home and the Blackhawk-branded one at work and love them both. They are truly great for working on cars with all the tight spaces because the head turns the same direction no matter which way you twist the handle, and if you're hard up against something and need just a bit more to get it to click, you can twist the handle and it'll click over. It is solidly constructed and does not feel in any way chintzy. Everyone should own one of these. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 19:29 on May 12, 2013 |
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May 12, 2013 19:27
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Chauncey posted:How many people know about this? I always thought those were kind of a gimmick, and the head seemed pretty thick. Maybe I can pick one up cheaply. Also: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192648&showall=1 72-tooth flex head (tightenable) ratchet, nice extension, and 2 spark plug sockets. $18, which is insanely cheap.
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May 12, 2013 19:31
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Chauncey posted:How many people know about this? I have a Husky version that looks exactly identical, has to be the same factory. It's decent. Not really a must-have part but every once in a while I'll find a bolt where it makes the job easier.
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May 12, 2013 20:15
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In UF's thread the other day nuts and bolts were the topic and it got me thinking... Does fastenal or mcmasters or someone make a nut and bolt 'key' like those panels they've got at the hardware store that tell you your size and thread (by screwing onto/into them)? I'm just thinking, if something like that was available on a keychain with the common sizes it'd be super helpful. I tired googling terms like 'metric key' with no luck. Anyone have any ideas short of making my own?
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May 16, 2013 06:17
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Search for "thread gauge" on McMaster. There are a ton of different options.
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May 16, 2013 06:34
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Grainger has something similar, its pretty much like round stock that has one end threaded and the other is threaded and they are on pieces of steel cable. In both metric and standard.
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May 16, 2013 06:39
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Thread gauge! That is awesome, I'm way too excited about this.
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May 17, 2013 04:19
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