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EvilBeard posted:Friend's been working on his 1986 325i. He works at a body shop, so work area is nice. Worked on the dash this weekend. I've heard of this. How does it work? I mean is that just body filler or something special? Cracked dashes are common here. I'd love to do it but I'm scared of all the hard work being undone by touching the vinyl.
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Apr 29, 2013 21:49
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EvilBeard posted:Friend's been working on his 1986 325i. He works at a body shop, so work area is nice. Worked on the dash this weekend. What do you use to fill the cracks, and texture the finish? Are they something the average consumer can get a hold of? My '70 Cutlass has developed some nice cracks, and I'm not quite up to spending the $1000 to have Just Dashes re-vinyl the thing. Could just have it upholstered in tweed or something, I guess...
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Apr 29, 2013 22:06
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I too am wondering about the steps and materials for that dash. The one in my Scirocco is horribly cracked and I'd like to fix it myself.
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Apr 29, 2013 22:10
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fingerling posted:Got it an unreasonable speeding ticket. Did you get pinged on the old freeway? Both that and greenhill road are awesome driving roads, but between the knobhead cyclists, the clueless tourists and the cops hiding in a bush with a laser it's hard to actually enjoy em properly 
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Apr 30, 2013 00:24
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The material we repaired the dash with was SEM FUS-143 Lord Fusor Extreme Bumper Repair Adhesive (you can find it on the net for less than $20 a tube). It's an epoxy in a tube. We used a die grinder to groove out the cracks larger, and then filled them with the epoxy.  We let the epoxy set up, then we sanded it down. We covered it with some polyester body filler and sanded it to make the dash nice and smooth. We sprayed it with Wurth Stone Guard Black (it comes in different textures, you want the one with the fine texture and we actually got in in Gray). It can be purchased online (unless you live in CA). We primed it before we sprayed the texture on, but you wouldn't have to. It looked like this after the texture.  Then we just sprayed color and uv coating over that. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 01:20
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EvilBeard posted:The material we repaired the dash with was SEM FUS-143 Lord Fusor Extreme Bumper Repair Adhesive (you can find it on the net for less than $20 a tube). It's an epoxy in a tube. We used a die grinder to groove out the cracks larger, and then filled them with the epoxy. How do you handle sanding it back and not wrecking the surrounding vinyl which is usually pretty thin? Now for what I did today. Not a whole lot. Just a little on the Niva. I oiled the wick for the distributor cam, and discovered that the funny little clip on a shaft near the bottom of the distributor is actually to cover a small oiling hole for the shaft. It was so dry. I oiled it. All this was done while I was staring hard at the distributor trying to figure out what the hell it is. Pretty sure it's not year correct. It's mechanical advance only and lacks the octane adjust wheel of the mech. advance model in the manual. As it is apparently the mechanical one was only in pre-1980 vehicles. I also discovered that the mechanical advance is housed inside the rotor up top. That's a new one to me.
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Apr 30, 2013 02:19
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I pulled all the struts off my Saabaru for the KYBs and MachV springs that are going on in the next couple days. I just need to rent a spring compressor from the Zone tomorrow and should be good to go. I might do my SS brake lines while it's all apart though...Still waiting to get the new turbo, and then it's turbo, downpipe, STI TMIC, and tune time. I like doing things in huge bunches.
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Apr 30, 2013 02:26
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Let my my brother borrow it who called to complain it wouldn't hold a burn out through third gear... It's an automatic. What a oval office.
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Apr 30, 2013 02:30
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tobu posted:Let my my brother borrow it who called to complain it wouldn't hold a burn out through third gear... It's an automatic. Sounds like he doesn't need to borrow any vehicles of yours any more.
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Apr 30, 2013 02:43
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General_Failure posted:How do you handle sanding it back and not wrecking the surrounding vinyl which is usually pretty thin? You just let the sandpaper do the work. You have to be gentle, but the epoxy works pretty easy, and you're gonna smooth it out with body filler after anyway. It takes a little time because you're careful, but it's not that bad.
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Apr 30, 2013 03:09
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Wire Wheeled the backing plate and painted it with Rustoleum Hammered finish - this stuff looks pretty nice and went on easy even if I did a terrible job. First the nozzle was clogged on the brand new can, then it seemed to go on really thick after I squeezed the trigger a few times. also I don't like the way it fizzles out after shooting. Also the plate was like a gorge and really hard to get every face but I did! I then sprayed a lot of PBlaster onto the spindle and once I get a mallet I'll try to pop it off. Wish me luck, the manual makes it look easy, but it's been on there for at least 20 years and probably all 40.
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Apr 30, 2013 03:27
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Forgot to cancel the OnStar trial before it auto renewed.. at the monthly rate.. for navigation. Noticed $40 missing today.  Called them fully intending to cancel entirely. They offered me the $19.99 base package, I said no. So they pulled out the big guns and offered me the "customer loyalty" $12.99/month.I... I caved. I'm getting a decent chunk knocked off of my insurance for having OnStar active, and the accident response is nice to have. After she finished updating the account, I complimented her on the save (since I have to do a few saves a day myself)... I fully intended to cancel today. She also refunded $38 of the $40. Today I realized "customer loyalty" discounts are "we threw this at you as a last ditch effort to keep you".. I mean, I've given OnStar a whole  to purchase 300 minutes during the trial, that's the only money they've ever seen from me... hardly a loyal customer. 
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Apr 30, 2013 06:07
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Does the 911 button work if you're not paying a subscription? And I'm assuming my analog on star on my 01 suburban can't even do that...
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Apr 30, 2013 06:20
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My parents have had satellite radio in their car for a couple years now and have never paid anywhere close to the advertised rate. Every time it comes up for renewal they call up to cancel it and the rep starts throwing discounts at them until it ends up being like $75 for a year.
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Apr 30, 2013 06:26
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Capslock Holmes posted:Does the 911 button work if you're not paying a subscription? And I'm assuming my analog on star on my 01 suburban can't even do that... Supposedly you get redirected to an operator to reconnect the account, and only if you hit the blue button. I haven't tried to find out though.. And yeah, you may as well rip all the OnStar stuff out of yours - the analog stuff will never work in the US again. Some models still came with analog as late as the 2006 model year, though apparently mine (Saturn) was switched to digital for 2005... while some Cadillacs didn't get switched to the digital version until 2007.  This after GM knew by 2002 that analog was going the way of the dodo bird...
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Apr 30, 2013 06:46
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If I recall correctly, you can yank the poo poo out of a newer suburban and stuff it in. (I am trying to remember correctly....)
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Apr 30, 2013 18:43
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BrokenKnucklez posted:If I recall correctly, you can yank the poo poo out of a newer suburban and stuff it in. (I am trying to remember correctly....) I think you're right. Apparently there's a digital upgrade kit too for $19 (and a $200 subscription). I thought they'd be required to route 911 calls like cell phones without a plan are. That's the only reason I'd want it, I'm not paying for on star for a vehicle I drive once or twice a month.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:59
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EvilBeard posted:The material we repaired the dash with was SEM FUS-143 Lord Fusor Extreme Bumper Repair Adhesive (you can find it on the net for less than $20 a tube). It's an epoxy in a tube. We used a die grinder to groove out the cracks larger, and then filled them with the epoxy. Interesting, thank you. The color is normal vinyl dye? The UV coating - is that something that goes along with the dye? I.E., any paint supply should have it or something similar? EDIT: well, that's annoying. The bumper repair is cheap enough, but the freaking applicator gun costs twice as much. Eh, still cheaper than a new dash, I guess.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:47
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Capslock Holmes posted:I thought they'd be required to route 911 calls like cell phones without a plan are. That's the only reason I'd want it, I'm not paying for on star for a vehicle I drive once or twice a month. They can't because the analog networks were shutdown. If there was an active network it would work, but the carriers were allowed to shutdown the analog networks as of Feb 18th, 2008.
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Apr 30, 2013 21:10
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What did I do to my ride today? Put it out of its misery. After 12 years, it was finally time to put the old girl down. Now her organs will live on in other like-model cars until she is no more and is turned into scrap metal. Mister Kingdom's Ford Escort LX Station Wagon 1994-2013 May she rust in pieces. Mister Kingdom fucked around with this message at 02:01 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 01:51
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Ferremit posted:Did you get pinged on the old freeway? Both that and greenhill road are awesome driving roads, but between the knobhead cyclists, the clueless tourists and the cops hiding in a bush with a laser it's hard to actually enjoy em properly Nah, bottom of the freeway at 4 AM. I can understand and wouldn't complain if only for that they were next to the old toll building and if I wasn't the only car on the road. As such, got done for 82 in a 60 zone (absolutely no leniency, loving urgh). The top of Greenhill used to be one of my favorite rides before I crashed my bike. That, and up Knotts Hill.. amazing!
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May 1, 2013 02:03
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fingerling posted:Nah, bottom of the freeway at 4 AM. I can understand and wouldn't complain if only for that they were next to the old toll building and if I wasn't the only car on the road. As such, got done for 82 in a 60 zone (absolutely no leniency, loving urgh). 82 in a 60? I bet your rear end is red raw after that one!
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May 1, 2013 02:08
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I put new front shocks in and then went and immediately broke them in on my favorite local two-track. No airtime, but definitely bottomed them out a few times, I should slap some new front bumpstops in it next.
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May 1, 2013 02:08
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I got one spindle loose on the Binder, and pulled the axle shaft out. The drat u-joint there only moves in one direction! I am soaking the other spindle to break free tomorrow, I can't wait to see how that one is, although I'll repair it anyway. This does explain why my turning radius was so terrible with the hubs locked vs free though, and why it took so many horses to turn the power steering pump. Real talk: am I going to need a press to do these? The manual actually shows it being done without one but I'm not real thrilled about it. What's the difficulty level here? It's a Dana 44 open knuckle - if that makes a bit of difference.
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May 1, 2013 03:36
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Threw on the new set of Direzza ZII's on the Miata and ripped it up the mountain, and holy poo poo these tires are incredible. The grip never ends and the steering feel is impossibly perfect. Feels like a new car.        Don't mind the rust, im replacing 3/4 quarterpanels...
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May 1, 2013 04:02
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StormDrain posted:I got one spindle loose on the Binder, and pulled the axle shaft out. The drat u-joint there only moves in one direction! I am soaking the other spindle to break free tomorrow, I can't wait to see how that one is, although I'll repair it anyway. This does explain why my turning radius was so terrible with the hubs locked vs free though, and why it took so many horses to turn the power steering pump. Easy. Here's the easy way to do a U-joint: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PpR-DcRV08 If you are at all coordinated, there is almost zero chance of bending the shaft ears or screwing up the ujoint needle bearings using this method, I do it all the time this way. Using a press or a vise to press the caps in is great if you enjoy bending shaft ears. He doesn't show the full install, but it's fairly easy to figure out what he hasn't shown. And he's doing a 5-806X dana 60 ujoint install rather than a 5-760X dana 44/dana 30 ujoint install, but it's the same method either way. You just get a little less room to work on a 44. e: You need: rat tail file just in case you ding up the inside corners of a yoke ear BFH (I prefer the 4lb engineer's hammer variety, myself) cheap lovely flat blade screwdriver you don't mind using as a pick/mini chisel grease gun rags, etc vise I generally recommend using Dana/Spicer and Neapco parts only - D/S are basically the best, Neapco are a good budget alternative, both of them will generally beat parts store brand pricing by a healthy amount and are significantly stronger as well. In particular, Duralast and Brute Force are known for being a pile of poo poo. A regular dana 44 *should* use 5-760X as far as I know - if it's a rather older one, it may use 5-260X but those are few and far between. If you use non greasable ujoints (regular 5-760X are non greasable) make sure to basically fill the ujoint caps with fresh grease before installing them so that it flushes out any dirt you get on the trunnions as you force the caps in place. I can't find a Spicer part number for greasable 5-760X type joints for some reason. You can tell if you have 260 or 760 size joints as a 260 joint has a bearing cap OD of 1 1/16" while a 760 joint has a bearing cap OD of 1 3/16". northerndrivetrain is probably the best place to get ujoints/related drivetrain parts from: http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-5-760X.html $26ea 5-760s http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/NEA-1-0297.html $20ea 5-760s from Neapco kastein fucked around with this message at 05:29 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 05:16
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Voltage posted:... It's not the panel you should be worried about, it's the structural inner brace that's gone. Don't know where you are, but in the states you can get rust-free miata tubs for 200-300, like this one
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May 1, 2013 06:04
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Capslock Holmes posted:I thought they'd be required to route 911 calls like cell phones without a plan are. They would be, if the FCC saw it as a phone. Instead, OnStar is viewed as a telematics system, not a phone. Assuming yours was digital to begin with, anyway - even analog cell phones can't call 911.
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May 1, 2013 06:17
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General_Failure posted:82 in a 60? I bet your rear end is red raw after that one! Oh, it was loving bullshit; but I'll not continue and be one of those people that provokes anti-police.. posting. Because of the speed there's a Victims of Crime levy. Total comes to the Princely sum of $730.
fingerling fucked around with this message at 06:33 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 06:28
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fingerling posted:Oh, it was loving bullshit; but I'll not continue and be one of those people that provokes anti-police.. posting. HOLY gently caress! I got done for 104 in an 80 zone about 6 months ago and that was only $430 WITH victims of Crime! And three demerit points... God those fines have gone up recently! As for my ride: I bought it some new navigation today! Hema Navigator HN6 http://www.hemanavigator.com.au/Products/HEMANavigatorHN6/tabid/189/Default.aspx  Not only does it do street navigation using iGo, its also got almost every public campsite, rest stop, caravan park etc in the country in on it, AND it runs Oziexplorer as well- so you can load up any topographic map and navigate on that! It came factory loaded with EVERY HEMA 4wd map produced and covers pretty much all of the country!  For under $700 for the whole lot, and its already let me load up all the high detail Country Fire Service maps onto it, so I can use it for that. Works thinking of getting them for our fire vehicles, so it will be good to see what its like in the real world first
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May 1, 2013 07:17
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If I remember reading something about it, they changed it from being expensive to speed, with less points accrued, to the reversal (although holy gently caress $700 and 5 demerit points) to stop rich people speeding then just flippantly paying fines with little worry for their license. It changed in October of 2012. You should post an update when you decide how good that Nav. System is. I'm from the country myself, and have ties to the CFS community who are currently looking for good units for use in the field.
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May 1, 2013 07:37
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Yeah- Give us a week or so to try it out and i'll see what its like. Last cop that was sitting down the bottom of the tollgate at 2am when I rolled down copped both my lightforces with 55w HID's into the aiming scope of his laser gun. I wasnt speeding, but he was sitting there rubbing his eyes as i drove past!
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May 1, 2013 08:04
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iGo is pretty competent. I have an iGo 8.5 GPS I was given maybe 3 years ago. So it's outdated now but that's no big neal. My father in law was showing off his new TomTom and the iGo had it matched on the important features anyway. What I did today was fix the windscreen wipers and the rear washer on the Niva, and lubricate the distributor.
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May 1, 2013 09:41
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iv46vi posted:It's not the panel you should be worried about, it's the structural inner brace that's gone. Definitely not going to those lengths to restore my 200K miles salvage title car, it's mainly going to be body work practice and then i'll just paint/plastidip the whole car.
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May 1, 2013 12:53
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Voltage posted:Definitely not going to those lengths to restore my 200K miles salvage title car, it's mainly going to be body work practice and then i'll just paint/plastidip the whole car. Yeah, if you have welder it's relatively easy to fix. The little bits and pieces just add up in cost surprisingly quick.
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May 1, 2013 13:26
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Not my car per se, but the rear calipers for our Formula Student car turned up today: They're so tiny!  It's like a scale model of a real caliper.(I'm impressed my phone managed to focus on everything in shot except my hand and the part)
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May 1, 2013 19:40
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Finally was able to tear down my bottom end today. Results were almost exactly what I expected. First off, the general condition of the engine. Oil pressure sending unit seems to be seeping a bit, gonna replace that along with the flywheel (see my earlier post for that). Front main seal doesn't seem to be leaking, but there's some crap gunked up around the rear so I'm gonna go ahead and do them both while I have the engine out, along with all the other gaskets and such. Now, the main event: rod bearings. These pictures are of cylinder 4, cylinders 2 and 3 were nearly identical so I didn't bother with pictures. Click for huge.   Looks like pretty textbook oil starvation. I had a bad leak from my turbo supply line for a while. I checked the oil regularly, but sometimes it would go an entire oil change with no loss, sometimes it would lose almost 3 quarts over the course of a couple weeks. I guess it adds up over time. Now here's the culprit that disabled my motor, cylinder 1. There was play before I even removed the cap, certainly explains the knock. Rod cap:  Rod:  Rod journal, before and after removing the shells:   And the toasted bearings themselves:    Now, I may be foolishly holding out hope here, but it certainly looks like the crank can be saved, possibly the rod too (I know jack poo poo about machining, so correct me if I'm wrong on this.) If so, my life may have just gotten a whole lot easier.
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May 1, 2013 19:57
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I don't have a whole lot of experience rebuilding engines and have never had to deal with a munched up crankshaft, but that looks pretty much done, especially with the chewed-up bearing shots that aren't in the stupid questions thread.
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May 1, 2013 20:14
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Replaced the fuel filter in the Allante. What should have been a 15 minute job was a 2 hour job, namely because the two bolts had rusted to the filter. Next week, I'm shooting for rebuilt injectors that can run on E10/E15 and new plugs/wires while I have the intake off. Even with the intake off, I have all of 2" clearance between the firewall and the back 4 plugs. And maybe 2.5" clearance on between the radiator and front 4 plugs.
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May 2, 2013 00:02
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kastein posted:Easy. Here's the easy way to do a U-joint: You are a wonderful person. Edit: compared what you wrote with the Spicer application guide for my truck and you were right there, I am pretty sure it's a 260, but I'll pop it off before I order. That was basically the same method as shown in the IH Service Manual, as well as in the Spicer service manual, so it must be legit. Double edit: I just did it and it was amazing. The bearings were like a stack of dry spaghetti lining the bearing, the rubber was cracked to hell. I just used a finish hammer and got it out with some effort. Although now my hand is numb from the vibrations. Looks like it is a 260, and I'm leaning toward the Neapco just because it's greasable. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 04:54 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 02:42
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