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you that have made cutting boards: how long do you have to keep feeding it? I finished my end grain maple board today and I've started oiling it with mineral oil. I have done probably 5 heavy coats so far hoping it would slow down the absorption at some point and I could just wipe off the excess, but I just went out to the shop and there wasn't a single little bubble of oil! I gave it a final overnight coat but I'm wondering when I should stop - I plan to put a beeswax/mineral oil mix on as a final protective coat. If I keep oiling it will it just start leaking out of the bottom eventually (and all the time)? Should I just wax it and forget about it for a while?
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Apr 29, 2013 01:25
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mds2 posted:I hope you are ok. How is the thumb?  Thumb is fine, thanks for asking. Tomorrow I should be able to test it and make sure it's cutting fine then I'll put on a finish. I do have one final part to fabricate but the wood I'm going to use for that is air dried and I'll wait a few days afterward to make sure it doesn't check before final assembly.
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Apr 29, 2013 03:39
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Final glue up and edges trimmed. The notch in the front will house an end vise. I'll be giving it a final surfacing this week. learned a lot on this one, first time I've gone full galoot on planing. Didn't use a power planer/jointer once on this.
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Apr 30, 2013 15:17
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I got a quick question for you all, let me start with a little preface. I grew up always having a woodworking shop attached to my house, I consider myself a decent amateur carpenter, though I have not done any woodworking in about 15 years. My wife and I are just now buying our first house, and it has a three stall garage. I am planning to build a partition and turn the third stall into a shop. Now for the question, I have been out of the loop so long I am not sure what tools and brands are worth a drat anymore. I am buying a set of Dewalt power-tools, and tablesaw, but I also want a Belt sander, Bandsaw, and Drillpress. Any suggestions? Also for hand tools, Id like something reliable, Craftsman used to be good but I don't know what their current product is like, I have also heard good things about snapon. I am looking to spend around $5000 on getting the basics for my shop setup, not a ton of money but a decent start.
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Apr 30, 2013 17:22
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I like Dewalt for my portable power tools, they seem to be good quality at a not-outrageous price, and sticking with one brand for cordless stuff is awesome for batteries. Porter Cable is also good, and Bosch. I think Hitachi is also okay, maybe slightly lower quality, but fine for "light duty" work, which is most people who aren't contractors. Mind the green plastic bio space laser pew pew pew decorative poo poo, though. Drives me crazy. As for larger, fixed tools (table saws, bandsaws, drill press, miter saw) I'd tend to avoid anything you can get at Lowe's/Home Depot. Well, that's not 100% true: miter saw, I have a Dewalt as well, it's great, I wouldn't trade it for anything. Drill presses are probably also more forgiving brand-wise, I have a midling-old Craftsman that doesn't give me any grief. Big fixed saws, though (tablesaw, bandsaw) I'd go with a more specialized brand. Grizzly's always a favorite, but Jet and Delta are a totally solid bet as well. Ol' green General International, too. If you have oodles of money, you could always go for gold and buy Powermatic. Similarly, for portable tools, Festool's the poo poo if you have money falling out your ears. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 17:31
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Of course with his budget he could buy about 3 planes, a backsaw and 2 chisels from Lie-Nielsen. Or 250 Stanley #5s on ebay
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Apr 30, 2013 17:42
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To be more helpful, what exactly do you want to work on/build?
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Apr 30, 2013 17:58
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What do you plan on building? Or what type of woodworking are you going to be doing? This is what should drive what tools you buy. If you are going to be making cabinets you might want a big table saw, or a Festool track saw. As far as handheld power tools I like porter cable routers, and I hear their sanders are good. I have a dewalt ROS that I like a lot and the dust collection on it is really good.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:00
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Cmdr. Chompernuts posted:Or 250 Stanley #5s on ebay
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Apr 30, 2013 18:02
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Mainly furniture, table, desk, dressers, end tables. I also do laser cutting work, so things that will be useful for ripping down material (table saw).
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Apr 30, 2013 18:19
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I would recommend you start with a table saw, a planer, and maybe a jointer, after that buy tools as you need them. Powermatic and Delta generally are considered top brands. Grizzly is good, and about half the price. Go with a contractor style saw, or if you can get a 220v outlet a cabinet saw. Are you interested in doing any hand work? QPZIL posted:What more could he need really I got a #8 in great condition off ebay this weekend, gonna flatten errything.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:33
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Bad Munki posted:I like Dewalt for my portable power tools, they seem to be good quality at a not-outrageous price, and sticking with one brand for cordless stuff is awesome for batteries. Porter Cable is also good, and Bosch. I think Hitachi is also okay, maybe slightly lower quality, but fine for "light duty" work, which is most people who aren't contractors. Mind the green plastic bio space laser pew pew pew decorative poo poo, though. Drives me crazy.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:36
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Cmdr. Chompernuts posted:
As needed and probably more for learning / hobby.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:46
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Cmdr. Chompernuts posted:Go with a contractor style saw I gotta disagree on this, contractor's saws are poo poo. Small tables, lightweight construction, and generally fewer safety features make for a greater potential to harm oneself while reducing the overall utility of the tool. I don't think there's much of anything you can do on a contractor's saw that you can't just as effectively and far more safely do with, say, a miter saw and/or a handheld circ saw.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:55
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Grab a set of Marples chisels (new), and a used Stanley #5, and #9 1/2 on ebay. Get something that doesn't look totally rusted, and appears to have a flat bottom. This insures that you'll really only need to sharpen it to get it in decent working condition. If you have more money, maybe look at getting new planes from Lie-Nielsen or Veritas (sold by Lee-Valley) Sharpening will stay with you as long as you use hand tools. Get used to it, allocate $200 for waterstones/oilstones/DMT plates.
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Apr 30, 2013 18:56
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Bad Munki posted:I gotta disagree on this, contractor's saws are poo poo. Small tables, lightweight construction, and generally fewer safety features make for a greater potential to harm oneself while reducing the overall utility of the tool. I don't think there's much of anything you can do on a contractor's saw that you can't just as effectively and far more safely do with, say, a miter saw and/or a handheld circ saw. Are we talking portable job site saws, or fixed metal frame based contractor saws? If you're ripping 4'x8' sheet goods then yes I'll take the circular saw, but ripping boards? Many contractor saws are up to the task, and more and more are including true riving knives and full guards.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:00
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In general, the class of tablesaws known as "contractor's saws" are the more lightweight "budget" table saws that were created to fill a spot in the big retailers (Lowe's, Home Depot) so that they wouldn't have to say, "No, we don't sell tablesaws" while still remaining in the price range people expect to stay within. Also in general, tablesaws are a sufficiently dangerous tool that you shouldn't skimp on being sure you get one that is solidly built and has all the proper safety features. Granted, now that some time has passed with people buying cheap-rear end tablesaws and losing fingers and the like, enough lawsuits and changes in safety requirements have come up to start forcing manufacturers to make their contractor's class a more robust saw. With that, of course, comes an increase in price. Of course nothing is absolute, but as a general rule, I'd be wary anything listed as a contractor's saw. I'm not saying that the only table saw you should buy should be a sawstop cabinet saw, that's a great plan but unreasonable. What I am saying is "contractor's saw" is not a good classification to recommend, it includes far more crap than not.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:06
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Cmdr. Chompernuts posted:Are we talking portable job site saws, or fixed metal frame based contractor saws? If you're ripping 4'x8' sheet goods then yes I'll take the circular saw, but ripping boards? Many contractor saws are up to the task, and more and more are including true riving knives and full guards. This is the one I was looking at. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW744X...=I163G57HTN5WH2 Planning to build a table for it that has plenty of outfeed, and position it in the center of the shop. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/36-L336-Unisa...words=table+saw would be idea, but that is a pretty large chunk of my budget. However in the long run, it may be worth it. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 19:07
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For $500 I would get this:http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-Amp-10-in-Professional-Table-Saw-R4512/202500206#.UYAJkFc8FqQ over that dewalt every day of the week. Or you can get a SawStop cabinet saw for $2000.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:12
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You're looking at both extremes. http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-1-3-4-HP-Left-Tilting-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0713 http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-2-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0661 These are what I consider to be a "contractor saw" and would be good to get. http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-3HP-220V-Cabinet-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0690 I own this, and it's great. No one has ever been unhappy with a unisaw, but you don't have to drop 3k.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:13
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That does look nice, anyone have any experience with RIGID?
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Apr 30, 2013 19:14
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LumberingTroll posted:That does look nice, anyone have any experience with RIGID? I dont own one, but that seems to be a pretty popular saw. I only have a rigid drill and impact driver, both are really nice. Plus rigid products purchased from home depot have a lifetime warranty on everything.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:18
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LumberingTroll posted:This is the one I was looking at. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW744X...=I163G57HTN5WH2 For table saws, even more than my misgivings about the contractor's class, I'd definitely avoid something that says "portable." I think most of my mis-givings about contractor saws may be due to the fact that those portable saws often get lumped into the same category. Those things scare me. That Delta you posted is awesome and all, but unless you're going nuts, I also wouldn't recommend dropping 3/5 of your budget on that one tool. I honestly don't want to pimp Grizzly, but just using them as an example, look at a saw like this, which has a left-tilt blade, riving knife, a nice big table, a 3HP motor, everything you'd need, for $1300 bucks (pre-freight.) That plus a good miter saw (double-bevel 10" sliding dewalt is, what, $600?) That puts you in under two grand for those two tools and you'll be set for a very long time, probably more than most hobbyists need. Anyhow, those are just examples. The broadstroked version is: don't buy any tablesaw that says "portable," but you also don't need to drop all your dough on the tablesaw, either. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 19:19
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Awesome, Ill look into them for sure. Any suggestions for hand tool brands? Being a home owner with this new house, I will need at least a basic set of hand tools for home maintenance, and other misc shop projects. Basically I just dont want to buy junk, if I am going to spend money I would rather it is on something of nice quality. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 19:19
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LumberingTroll posted:That does look nice, anyone have any experience with RIGID? I own that exact saw and it works great. The castors are really handy for a small shop like mine.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:40
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Cmdr. Chompernuts posted:Grab a set of Marples chisels (new), and a used Stanley #5, and #9 1/2 on ebay. Get something that doesn't look totally rusted, and appears to have a flat bottom. This insures that you'll really only need to sharpen it to get it in decent working condition. If you have more money, maybe look at getting new planes from Lie-Nielsen or Veritas (sold by Lee-Valley) From what I'm reading, since Irwin bought out Marples the quality is nowhere near where it used to be. Assuming that's accurate, what other brands would you recommend? I've long outgrown my super-cheap harbor freight set and have been doing more work requiring a good set.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:44
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I can't say what Marples used to be, but I have 2 sets of chisels, a nice set of Robert Sorby chisels, which I bought on their reputation for hard lathe tools, and a set of Marples. I use the Sorby for fine paring work, and the Marples as a set of "beat em up" chisels (I use them less and less since getting a set of mortising chisels). I find that Marples are still good, and probably the best discount chisels you can get. They are certainly workable. That said, it's nice to have a fine, well performing chisel, I like the Sorby set I have. Can't speak to other brands.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:54
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LumberingTroll posted:I am buying a set of Dewalt power-tools, and tablesaw, but I also want a Belt sander, Bandsaw, and Drillpress. Any suggestions? Also for hand tools, Id like something reliable, Craftsman used to be good but I don't know what their current product is like, I have also heard good things about snapon. I am looking to spend around $5000 on getting the basics for my shop setup, not a ton of money but a decent start. LumberingTroll posted:Mainly furniture, table, desk, dressers, end tables. Nothing sparks conversation around here like saws. The saw is the most important tool in woodworking unless you're a primitive working with axes, adzes, froes, etc. (I'm not disparaging that BTW, it's pretty cool). Everything I've ever built has been sawn, that's about the only tool for which I can say that. The most important part of the saw is the fence, a poor or mediocre fence will make you hate woodworking while a good one is a joy. Jobsite saws like the Dewalt are not designed for precision and unless you'll be hauling it around I'd look at a hybrid or cabinet saw. You spend $600 on a Dewalt now and in a year you'll want to upgrade. Spend $600 on a good used saw and you'll probably own it for a decade or forever. Delta is out of the small saw business although the Delta Contractors are plentiful enough used and are arguably the best contractor saws ever built (I've owned one for ~15 years). But a hybrid or cabinet saw will give you better dust collection. The Unisaws are better than ever. Powermatic still makes excellent saws and I imagine Jet does as well. Grizzly is as they always were... a good quality discount saw that might be short on fit and finish but capable. There are other brands like Steel City but I'm not very familiar with them. Rigid has something of a cult following so there must be something to them but based on all I've read, I would never own one or recommend one unless it was used and fairly cheap. Drill presses are pretty basic, some are probably better than others but as far as I can tell any reputable brand is very good. I own a 70's era Jet/Orbit and it's a good drill press. My impression of bandsaws is that there isn't much difference until you go over 14". I don't know anything about belt sander brands. As for Marples, the British made Marples were excellent quality and used sell for 2-3X what they cost new (I've had a set for years). No experience with the new Irwin Marples. Believe it or not, I think Stanley is trying to come back as a valid tool maker. Reportedly their new Bailey and Sweetheart chisels are good quality for the money. The Woodriver stuff is reputed to be good quality for the money. Best bang for the buck in handtools are pre-WWII vintage.
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Apr 30, 2013 22:34
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I'm gonna buck the trend and say... go used for most of your stuff. So long as they aren't ancient, they will perform just fine and you will get way more bang for your buck... and potentially save yourself the trouble of building poo poo. My 1970's rockwell table saw came in a full table saw station with drawers and a router table insert and cost all of $100 - a new fence, a link belt and a decent blade was all it took to make a machine that has yet to fall short of my needs. I got a 13" delta planer with 3 sets of knives and set on a shop-built mobile cabinet (with a cam lever to lift it off casters and onto feet) for something like $250, about a third of the retail value and it has yet to let me down. Clamps are especially good to get used, as they hold their value compared to power tools and you shouldn't lose any money if you ever need to offload them. I got 12 irwin quick grips and 20 pipe clamps of varying length for $300, and they are invaluable to have on hand (but horrifyingly expensive if you were to buy that many clamps new). Doing that lets you put money into wood, first and foremost, and then the plethora of odds + ends that you don't realize you will need but REALLY add up in cost - a dado set, good blades + knives, sharpening tools, a decent digital caliper (maybe even a dial gauge), decent plywood stock for jigs + fixtures like a crosscut sled for your tablesaw, MORE CLAMPS, and so on.
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Apr 30, 2013 22:58
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Guitarchitect posted:I'm gonna buck the trend and say... go used for most of your stuff. I have to agree, I've come to love vintage tools and machinery. The exception being those 70's-80's Craftsman bandsaws and radial arm saws.
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Apr 30, 2013 23:20
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I actually am a contractor and have a contractor table saw, which is wonderful cause I can toss it around easily from job site to truck to job site. That being said, I curse the sonofabitch that made it, cause the fence is too drat small and nigh impossible to make parallel to the blade- I have to use my tape to dial in the fence to the front of the blade, then readjust for the back of the blade, then check the front again to make sure it hasn't shifted. It seems silly to say, but if you aren't a contractor, don't get a contractor saw- not in an exclusive sort of way- in a warning way. Get something with a cabinet, or at least with a big table and sturdy fence.
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May 1, 2013 00:48
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LumberingTroll posted:I got a quick question for you all, let me start with a little preface. I grew up always having a woodworking shop attached to my house, I consider myself a decent amateur carpenter, though I have not done any woodworking in about 15 years. My wife and I are just now buying our first house, and it has a three stall garage. I am planning to build a partition and turn the third stall into a shop. I highly recommend Milwaukee M18 and M12 cordless. They've got the most tools in both their 18V and 12V lines and many that Dewalt and others don't offer (particularly the dremel, multi-tool, new 12V brushless tools, 18V one handed hackzall, a heated coat...etc). Dewalt is great but they're slowly transitioning to lithium and just have too few tools available. There are literally 50+ M12 tools and about 6 12V max tools. Bosch and Maikita are also excellent. Porter Cable is solid but a small step below the Milwaukee etc. Personally I go cordless for everything I can. As for hand tools both Milwaukee and Dewalt have come out with hand tool lines I like that compete nicely with the old standards like channel lock. Klein is also excellent and they have the best 10 in 1 screwdriver in my opinion. For cheap tools I look for Tekton on Amazon. I find them to be a little more than harbor freight but several times better for places where I need variety of extras but don't want to spend a lot. Speaking of brands, what do people think of Husky? I've pretty much avoided them even though I'm in Home Depot all the time but I recently noticed they have lifetime warranties. Are they trying to be the next craftsman? Are they coming close?
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May 1, 2013 03:17
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Stavrogin posted:I actually am a contractor and have a contractor table saw, which is wonderful cause I can toss it around easily from job site to truck to job site. That being said, I curse the sonofabitch that made it, cause the fence is too drat small and nigh impossible to make parallel to the blade- I have to use my tape to dial in the fence to the front of the blade, then readjust for the back of the blade, then check the front again to make sure it hasn't shifted. It seems silly to say, but if you aren't a contractor, don't get a contractor saw- not in an exclusive sort of way- in a warning way. Get something with a cabinet, or at least with a big table and sturdy fence. Just to make sure we are all on the same page... This is a contractor saw. And this particular one has one of the best fences ever made.  This is a jobsite saw, suitable for rough carpentry.  Here is a hybrid saw, basically a contractor saw with the motor inside. 
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May 1, 2013 06:21
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wormil posted:Just to make sure we are all on the same page... Ah, yes- I guess my nomenclature is different- i call a contractor what you call a jobsite. I have a feeling yours is the proper usage.
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May 1, 2013 12:09
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Everyone I know calls the "jobsite saw" a "contractor's saw" and the other two "shop saws".
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May 1, 2013 16:37
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Blistex posted:Everyone I know calls the "jobsite saw" a "contractor's saw" and the other two "shop saws". Yeah, this is what I see in general as well, and is the source of my consternation over "contractor's saws." Whether or not it's pedantically true, it's effectively true. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:48 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 16:40
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wormil posted:Here is a hybrid saw, basically a contractor saw with the motor inside.
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May 1, 2013 17:33
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peepsalot posted:What does this mean? Don't they all have a motor inside? No, contractor saws have the motor outside. All other saws have the motor inside. Hybrid saws are a combination of contractor and cabinet as the name suggests. The problem with contractor saws isn't the fence or power but that they have poor dust collection. They tend to be louder than cabinet saws as they are more open but quieter than jobsite saws which have universal motors; and the cantilevered motor can lead to vibration although that can be mitigated with a link belt. They were designed for portability, weigh a lot less than cabinet saws and are about half the cost. 
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May 1, 2013 18:47
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Wormil, how is the plane coming along?
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May 1, 2013 19:31
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mds2 posted:Wormil, how is the plane coming along? All done except for some finishing touches. My goal is to ship by Friday.
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May 1, 2013 19:39
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