Gullous posted:I've ghetto sealed my 690 rims with silicon sealant and gorilla tape and I'm never going back to tubes. Ghetto sealing isn't maintenance free, but I find many advantages compared to tubes. I've done a handful of trackdays and a 1500 mile road trip on sealed rims with minimal issues. Thanks! When I get new tires I'll be trying this out. Did you only dab each spoke or do the entire drop center? I've seen some other tutorials where they coat the entire center just to be extra safe. Not sure if that's overkill or not. I do intend on covering a large area around each spoke and not just filling each little indentation. Where did you get your valve stems at? NAPA? I'm considering trying to use angled sets as getting an air line into the spoked rims is a pain. Xovaan posted:I see like 50+ points of possible failure from that mod though. I dunno-- if it works, that's cool and all, but trying to track down which improperly sealed spoke is slowly chipping away at your PSI would make me instantly want to go back to a $20 tube. I don't think this is true. Squirting water on the rim at each spoke will tell you which one is leaking. Even if it's several of them you can mark each, reseal them and try again. Multiple people claim that simply squirting in a few drops of purple loctite into leaky spokes will stop it but I don't know for sure if that's true. I should note that I have a friend with a tire changer who swaps them cheap and is patient enough to let me seat the bead, test them and redo if we need to fix any of the spokes. I can see this whole thing being less attractive for people that rely on dealers to do swaps. I wouldn't trust them not to gently caress up the tape in the center of the wheel somehow - I'm sure they can figure out a way.
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Apr 20, 2013 22:59
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| # ? May 10, 2024 03:37 |
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I've been left stranded by more tubeless tires than tubes tires. We can quote anecdotal evidence all day, but the above poster is right. Putting two wheels worth of spokes into situations they weren't meant for creates a jillion points of failure.
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Apr 21, 2013 00:18
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I've been left stranded by more tubeless tires than tubes tires. We can quote anecdotal evidence all day, but the above poster is right. Putting two wheels worth of spokes into situations they weren't meant for creates a jillion points of failure. If you have a plug kit a repair on a tubeless tyre is a 5 minute job, sure you can patch a tube too but gently caress that. That 3M tape looks like a much better solution than individually blobbing each spoke with silicone, and if you put a small circular sticker over each spoke you can still adjust their tension without compromising the seal. Having done 2 tyre changes and 1 tube change due to a puncture on my DRZ since I got it I loving hate tubes. On my SV I run ultraseal in the tyres and just forget all about punctures. I cant recommend that poo poo enough, I personally saw one of my friends tyres that he'd run down to the cords still hold pressure perfectly until we changed it and found 3 nails in it.
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Apr 21, 2013 00:48
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Is ultraseal like this stuff? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GScWPb8qcng
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Apr 21, 2013 02:48
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xd posted:Is ultraseal like this stuff? similar effect but its a liquid you pump in through the valve stem, that stuff seems to be baked on. Here is an awesomely cheesy ad for it. it looks like a gimmick but i've used it for years now. A bike tyre only takes about 100~200ml iirc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XZ_pjnsmEU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XZ_pjnsmEU
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Apr 21, 2013 04:00
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I'm looking to get a sumo or dual sport this summer, what do you guys think about the crf250l vs. the drz 400? I'd really like to get a cheap (and small to mid size in weight and height) sumo for learning wheelies, going up steps, all that fun stuff.
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Apr 21, 2013 07:06
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Drz over the crf all day. More power, waaaayy bigger aftermarket. If you have to have fuel injection Over all else then get the Honda, but otherwise its not really a comparison. The drz even weighs less, lol
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Apr 21, 2013 14:50
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I'll second the DRZ as a safe bet. Look into the WR250x as well. There're comparisons out there between the two so you can see which suits your needs better than the other.
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Apr 21, 2013 16:39
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Drz over the crf all day. More power, waaaayy bigger aftermarket. I actually like carbs, reminds me of jetskis for some reason.
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Apr 22, 2013 19:02
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I thought I had everything in order for my SM kit, but I neglected to account for two things: - Need a shorter chain or a bigger sprocket to run the stock chain - Motostranos incompetence. I suspected when they promised the caliper re-locator fit "KTMs-all", they were being optimistic but I forgot to double check. Well, I was right to be suspect. Hopefully they can sort it out and get me the proper one. Hopefully they can get it to me before Monday so I can take this sucker to the season opener. 
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Apr 23, 2013 04:23
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This thread should not be on the second page! I can only assume all supermoto owners are out doing wheelies. Anyway, I've made it no secret that I love rim tape. Most of my bikes stay pretty cosmetically stock, but every modern bike I've owned has had rim tape. I just love the stuff for some reason. I had some leftover red tapeworks rim tape from the Bandit that I could have put on the DRZ, but I also read that the yellow electrical tape that they sell at Home Depot is an almost exact match for the DRZ's yellow paint/plastic, so I picked up some of that. I felt like a big strip of yellow tape around the rim with the yellow excel decals might be overkill, so I thought about which other ways rim (electrical) tape can go on. I'm not sure if I like it and I'll probably pull it off, but its only tape and I have like 50 feet of it, so no biggie. 
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Apr 30, 2013 14:13
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I just picked up a bronze type color that I'm considering putting on mine for visibility. Not sure if I'll like it or not since it really only matches one little piece of the hologram coloring in my graphics. Also I dunno about the crossed over strips like that. They're gonna come off pretty fast I'd imagine and electrical tape always leaves that gummy residue behind that you'll have to use kerosene or something to remove. It might look kind of cool if you make equal marks along the outside so the tape is spaced evenly and just run a piece starting at the edge of the rim and moving towards the spokes perpendicular to the wheel up to where the drop center starts to curve (if that makes any sense?). Kind of a pattern of alternating black and yellow rectangles. Might look stupid but it's just a thought (it'll also be more securely attached). Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 15:20
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I like that look. Kttm does something similar on some of their sumos.
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Apr 30, 2013 15:29
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gently caress me I'm dense. I didn't even notice the rear wheel was pretty much what I was talking about. If it were me though I'd cut the tape before it hits the drop center portion as otherwise it looks a bit crowded with too much yellow imo.
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Apr 30, 2013 15:36
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I think it might look pretty good if the pieces of tape got progressively closer together and thicker.
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Apr 30, 2013 15:58
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I think it would look better with you on it doing wheelies.
ChewedFood fucked around with this message at 01:19 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 01:37
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I think I need some red white and blue rim tape for the Ulysses. You people are a bad influence.
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May 1, 2013 03:03
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Just got a sweet tax return so I'm gonna pick up some fresh tires for my DRZ. I currently have distanzias on there that are not bad , but was unimpressed with them off road, though they're nice on gravel roads. I want to try some real SuMo tires this time around and I cant decide on either the continental contiforce SM or the new Conti Attack SM tires. I know the contiforce have been recommended here on many occasions but do any of you guys have the attacks and how do you like them over the forces?
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May 2, 2013 01:22
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Anyone have any experience having a local dealer true spoked wheels? The rear rim on my DRZ is out of alignment with the hub, and you can see it wobbling on the bike. I honestly dont think its bent, just untrue. I tend to not trust local dealer mechanics, but dont really know where else to go? I have never trued a spoked wheel, and dont really feel like starting with the DRZ
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May 2, 2013 01:53
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Anyone have any experience having a local dealer true spoked wheels? The rear rim on my DRZ is out of alignment with the hub, and you can see it wobbling on the bike. I honestly dont think its bent, just untrue. I tend to not trust local dealer mechanics, but dont really know where else to go? I have never trued a spoked wheel, and dont really feel like starting with the DRZ how often do you check/tighten your spokes? I check mine every time I oil the chain, three's usually one or two that're a bit dull when tapped with a small spanner. I try to tune them all to match the hghest pitch one as well as my ear can manage. I must check the runout on my rim now that you've brought it up.
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May 2, 2013 02:07
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echomadman posted:how often do you check/tighten your spokes? I check mine every time I oil the chain, three's usually one or two that're a bit dull when tapped with a small spanner. I try to tune them all to match the hghest pitch one as well as my ear can manage. Do you do it with wheels on the ground when you do this? It probably doesn't matter but I figured I should ask, I should look at that too because I have a bit of a wobble.
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May 2, 2013 02:09
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stevobob posted:Do you do it with wheels on the ground when you do this? It probably doesn't matter but I figured I should ask, I should look at that too because I have a bit of a wobble. I put it up an a beer crate to do any work on it so both wheels are in the air.
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May 2, 2013 02:14
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I never check mine. Maybe I should, but I've never had a wheel go much out of true before. The DRZ wheel is pretty bad, you can feel it above 50 mph, and the weirdest part is that the wheel seems to be eccentrically off from the hub, rather than bent. The below image is an incredibly simplified and exaggerated view (imagine the center circle as the hub), but the wheel doesnt wobble side to side, at least not visually. When you are looking at the wheel from the side, it wobbles from front to back on the bike.
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May 2, 2013 02:15
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I think the lack of a cush drive really pounds the drz rear wheel, especially with sticky rubber. the spokes are under a lot of strain.
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May 2, 2013 02:22
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Anyone have any experience having a local dealer true spoked wheels? The rear rim on my DRZ is out of alignment with the hub, and you can see it wobbling on the bike. I honestly dont think its bent, just untrue. I tend to not trust local dealer mechanics, but dont really know where else to go? I have never trued a spoked wheel, and dont really feel like starting with the DRZ Thought about taking it to a bicycle shop?
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May 2, 2013 05:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Anyone have any experience having a local dealer true spoked wheels? The rear rim on my DRZ is out of alignment with the hub, and you can see it wobbling on the bike. I honestly dont think its bent, just untrue. I tend to not trust local dealer mechanics, but dont really know where else to go? I have never trued a spoked wheel, and dont really feel like starting with the DRZ Any shop the works on dirt bikes (or older bikes) ought to be able to true a spoked wheel.
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May 2, 2013 06:16
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Snowdens Secret posted:Thought about taking it to a bicycle shop? There's no way a motorcycle wheel would fit on the truing stand at my local bike shop.
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May 2, 2013 14:39
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How long do brake pads last on a DRZ on average? Mine has 4600miles so it either is on the original or some mystery 2nd set from the original owner, but its starting to do that "I need to be replaced soon" screetch. Do I really need to replace the brake pads already or is it just a case of squeaky rear end brakes? Is there an easy way to check without taking apart the caliper? So many questions. 
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May 3, 2013 04:04
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You can just take a look down in there but if you don't know what they looked like initially it may just confuse you. Taking the caliper off requires removal of only 2 12mm bolts (maybe they're 14 I don't remember) and the caliper will slide right out giving you a good look at the pads. Do that.
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May 3, 2013 04:08
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Asking around at a bicycle shop is good advice, the one closest to me does a lot of work on motocross bikes in addition to their usual clientele. I just ordered this: http://www.epicmotosports.com/Supermoto-Parts-EPIC-Supermoto-Starter-Kit-detail.htm?productId=-393930 for my crf450x. Can't wait for it to get here now! Can't wait to be able to really push it hard, I've been pretty gentle ever since buying it because the knobbies don't have much grip.
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May 3, 2013 05:11
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JP Money posted:You can just take a look down in there but if you don't know what they looked like initially it may just confuse you. Taking the caliper off requires removal of only 2 12mm bolts (maybe they're 14 I don't remember) and the caliper will slide right out giving you a good look at the pads. Do that. Do you have to take the caliper off? Most bikes I've seen you can peek at the back of the caliper to see if they're down to the wear indicator.
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May 3, 2013 18:04
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That's what I meant by the first part of my post, sorry I might have worded it poorly. If you don't know what you're really looking at it'll probably just confuse him. Once you understand what you're seeing then yeah it's definitely easier just to peek in there.
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May 3, 2013 18:06
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Finally got around to ordering a Yoshi pipe for the DRZ, and installed it last night: 
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May 4, 2013 13:06
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Nice, it will make you realize just how gagged up the stock pipe is
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May 4, 2013 14:30
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Nice, it will make you realize just how gagged up the stock pipe is Already noticed a difference even with the insert still installed. Less engine braking due to backpressure, smoother running. I used to have a mildly annoying buzz at 60mph but it's gone with the new exhaust in place. I might remove the insert today and see what happens.
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May 7, 2013 11:45
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Did you do the 3x3 and rejet? It's a pretty big difference. Getting an FCR is an even bigger jump than that. I don't know if I'd want to go back now that I've tried one.
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May 7, 2013 14:49
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JP Money posted:Did you do the 3x3 and rejet? It's a pretty big difference. Getting an FCR is an even bigger jump than that. I don't know if I'd want to go back now that I've tried one. When I bought the bike it had the 3x3 and had been jetted to 155 main already. If I uncork the RS2, I'll switch to a 160, since I have the jets laying around. I would have done it today, but ran out of time before work. Ideally I'd like to get an FCR but I don't know about spending another $600 on the bike right now. I might have to cut down on my riding since I just got a new job at another hospital which is an hour of straight highway from my house and that's not ideal SM riding.
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May 8, 2013 01:05
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Check thumpertalk forums regularly for deals on FCR's. I've seen 39MX's go for 250-300 bucks. You'll need the right airboot and probably want to rejet it but the TT store charges a fuckton for their carb. It's not worth it when they came on so many drat bikes. You can definitely come out for under 400 for it all pretty easily. Sucks about the highway riding. That's why the guy I bought mine off of sold his. They sound like ok bikes for highway in theory (plush suspension, decent on gas, etc.) until you actually try riding highway and find out they pretty much suck.
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May 8, 2013 01:11
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Real Men ™ commute on sumos
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May 8, 2013 04:04
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| # ? May 10, 2024 03:37 |
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Q: My supermoto has a stiff seat. A: Do squats. real men 
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May 8, 2013 04:10
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