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Animal posted:I think I am getting bad MPG, even for a TJ. Its a 6 cyl automatic, 2004 Wrangler X, stock. Getting about 13mpg, which is a bit low for city driving. Problem is most of my driving is highway driving, which should be giving me around 18. It has a new air filter and the tires are the right PSI. Overdrive is on. I dont really slam the pedal in, I try to let the car slowly ease into 70mph. Anything else that could be going wrong? I have the exact same model except for a manual trans. Had the same problem a year or so ago and gave it a tune-up and gained ~4mpg.
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Apr 30, 2013 14:04
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I got really awesome MPGs driving my YJ to MA going about 55mph (or whatever 55mph on the speedometer meant). I was limping down in FWD and wanted to be careful. With the 3.07 geared front and running 4th gear most of the way I calculated it at something like 23 mpg but my math could have been off. I don't want to think about how much fuel I burned coming back. I think I did most of the trip back going 70mph. I'm sure my jeep is under a quarter tank now. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 15:47
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You Jeep guys are so lucky.... I am super lucky to bang out 15 on my Range Rover. But again, pushing around a 5500 brick, nothing is going to get good MPG's. I am glad winter is over, the cheap jeeps are starting to clutter craigslist.
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Apr 30, 2013 16:10
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I'm hoping people start selling off wheels. I'm pretty annoyed Jeep changed the bolt pattern with the JKs. Everybody and their mother wants to ditch a set of Soft 8s or something similar, but always from a YJ/TJ.
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Apr 30, 2013 16:42
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It would have been cool if they had gone to 5x5.5 like the older stuff and old fords and whatnot had, but nooooo, they had to go to 5x5. Related: a friend bought a set of wheels and tires (245/somethingR16s and 16xwhatever stock WJ rims) off a WJ for his DD XJ without realizing the WJ uses 5x5. Cue some 1.25 to 1.5 inch spacer-adapters, ZJ disc brake swap, and a mild lift (like an inch over stock, 2" over previous ride height) and I think it looks pretty drat sweet. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 16:46
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Godholio posted:I'm hoping people start selling off wheels. I'm pretty annoyed Jeep changed the bolt pattern with the JKs. Everybody and their mother wants to ditch a set of Soft 8s or something similar, but always from a YJ/TJ. I gave up on steelies and got a set of exploder rims.
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Apr 30, 2013 16:49
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Godholio posted:I'm hoping people start selling off wheels. I'm pretty annoyed Jeep changed the bolt pattern with the JKs. Everybody and their mother wants to ditch a set of Soft 8s or something similar, but always from a YJ/TJ. My soft 8's from summit were $38 each and free shipping. I run 4" backspacing and 15" diameter.
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Apr 30, 2013 17:44
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jonathan posted:My soft 8's from summit were $38 each and free shipping. I run 4" backspacing and 15" diameter. If you get 16s you can run treadwrights.  VVVV yeah, I ended up going with treadwrights because they were far cheaper than comparable new tires. I probably would have got 15s if TW still made them. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 19:34
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jonathan posted:My soft 8's from summit were $38 each and free shipping. I run 4" backspacing and 15" diameter. I can't keep track of what everyone drives...are you in a JK? Any caliper clearance issues (grinding)? I assume with 15s you're on 33s...any rubbing? My ideal setup is 15s and 33s, but usually people recommend at least 4.5" backspacing which generally means my tires will stick out too far to pass inspection. I'd rather use 16s, honestly, but the price difference in the tires is a couple hundred bucks every time. Godholio fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Apr 30, 2013 |
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Apr 30, 2013 20:03
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piss boner posted:I have the exact same model except for a manual trans. Had the same problem a year or so ago and gave it a tune-up and gained ~4mpg. Thank you. I dont know what will be involved in a tune-up for a fuel injected car, but I will try replacing the spark plugs to see if that helps.
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Apr 30, 2013 22:11
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Animal posted:Thank you. I dont know what will be involved in a tune-up for a fuel injected car, but I will try replacing the spark plugs to see if that helps. On a 2004 TJ, change the plugs and put a little bit of dielectric grease in the boots of the coil rail before putting it back on. Measure the gap of the old plugs and post pics so we can speculate on whether or not they were your problem. And if you haven't read it yet, don't bother with fancy platinum plugs, just get OE replacement NGK.
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May 1, 2013 00:53
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I just looked at the procedure for replacing the plugs online. While it seems simple, I dont have the tools (recently moved here.) Hopefully I can find someone with the tools to do it, otherwise, how much should a mechanic charge me for plug replacement?
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May 1, 2013 00:55
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Animal posted:I just looked at the procedure for replacing the plugs online. While it seems simple, I dont have the tools (recently moved here.) Hopefully I can find someone with the tools to do it, otherwise, how much should a mechanic charge me for plug replacement? You only need a 14mm (or 13mm I can't remember off the top of my head right now) socket for the bolts holding the coil rail on, a 13/16" spark plug socket for the spark plugs, a cheap click-type torque wrench, and maybe a flathead screwdriver to loosen the lock on the coil rail connector. Just buy some tools and do it, it'll be cheaper in the long run than running to a mechanic all the time.
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May 1, 2013 01:16
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Alright will get to it as soon as I have time.
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May 1, 2013 02:17
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Godholio posted:I can't keep track of what everyone drives...are you in a JK? Any caliper clearance issues (grinding)? I assume with 15s you're on 33s...any rubbing? Yes, pretty sure I had the first JK in the Jeep thread. I've had all sorts of tires and wheel combos. Mine is a 2008 Unlimited Rubicon, and with the Soft 8's with 4" backspacing, I didn't have any caliper rub issues. My father however was using Cragar's (not soft 8, a different 5 spoke model) with 3.5" backspace and was getting very slight caliper rub. We rounded off a corner very slightly, maybe 2mm of material and that fixed it. Strangely, the same wheels on mine didn't rub. Currently I'm running a 3.25" lift with stock wheels and tires. I've run 33x12.5 with no lift, 35's with no lift, 37's with this lift. I will be going back to 37's on 15" wheels in the next few weeks, and doing steering knuckle gussets. For the tires I'm pretty much decided on Interco Txus M/T's. They measure an actual 37", good siping for the ice here, decent in the mud, and wear very slowly. jonathan fucked around with this message at 02:40 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 02:37
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I can't imagine it's more than a 1 hour job for a mechanic to do sparkplugs on an I6, so probably $40-60 in labor. The plugs themselves are cheap--just get Champion brand copper plugs. With new plug wires materials total should cost around $30-40. If you're getting quoted more than about $100 for a plug change then I'd look elsewhere.
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May 1, 2013 03:22
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The 4.0 runs best on simple copper plugs...Champion, AutoLite and NGK being among the most popular.
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May 1, 2013 03:36
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jonathan posted:Yes, pretty sure I had the first JK in the Jeep thread. I've had all sorts of tires and wheel combos. Mine is a 2008 Unlimited Rubicon, and with the Soft 8's with 4" backspacing, I didn't have any caliper rub issues. My father however was using Cragar's (not soft 8, a different 5 spoke model) with 3.5" backspace and was getting very slight caliper rub. We rounded off a corner very slightly, maybe 2mm of material and that fixed it. Strangely, the same wheels on mine didn't rub. If you can remember, what wheels/backspacing did you have with the 33x12.5? I've still got probably another year before these OE tires wear down (and they're actually not bad in the mountains, though I hate the look), but that's the direction I want to go. I've got an inspection station that's jeep friendly so I can probably get away with sticking out a bit. If necessary I can do a budget boost, I guess. Soft 8s clearing with 4" of backspace is music to my ears though.
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May 1, 2013 03:54
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mod sassinator posted:I can't imagine it's more than a 1 hour job for a mechanic to do sparkplugs on an I6, so probably $40-60 in labor. The plugs themselves are cheap--just get Champion brand copper plugs. With new plug wires materials total should cost around $30-40. If you're getting quoted more than about $100 for a plug change then I'd look elsewhere. I6 engines after 2000 don't have plug wires 
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May 1, 2013 04:32
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Philip J Fry posted:The 4.0 runs best on simple copper plugs...Champion, AutoLite and NGK being among the most popular. Thanks. Apparently Autozone loans tools, so I will just head there, buy the plugs, borrow some tools, and get to it
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May 1, 2013 05:52
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jonathan posted:Yes, pretty sure I had the first JK in the Jeep thread. No way man. Pretty sure it was me and my old 2008 2dr Rubi. Actually, I don't really know. 
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May 1, 2013 06:08
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Ok guys, if I were to buy the tools to change my spark plugs on my 2004 TJ 4.0, here is what I have chosen on Amazon: Here are the instructions I will be using. I am planning to buy these plugs. There are one buck and change more expensive than copper plugs, but supposedly they last longer. Is this snake oil? should I go for a specific copper plug instead? I read bad reviews for Champion plugs, apparently a lot of people get bad ones. And here are the tools I have on my Amazon wish list, which I searched based on the instructions above: Spark plug gap measurer Torque wrench Extension bar Spark plug socket Universal joint kit Dielectric boot protection Anti seize compound I still need a 13mm Socket. Which kit on Amazon would you go for? Am I overdoing it with the tools? Is there a kit that includes everything I will need as far as wrench and socket? Or should I just borrow all that crap from Autozone? Thanks for the help. This is the first time I deal with car mechanics more complicated than changing tires or air filters.
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May 1, 2013 06:15
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Plugs are pretty easy and kind of fun so long as they aren't stuck. #6 up by the firewall can be kind of a bitch though. Anti-seize is a smart move, hopefully whoever did them last used some on yours. Make sure the cap and rotor aren't corroded while you're in there. They're cheap parts to replace if need be, though. Champion plugs used to be good, but I think they changed the model or phased them out a while back because a lot of people couldn't find them any more and started using the AutoLite and NGK equivalent. Some come pre-gapped, some don't. Check the box before you leave the store or just buy one of the cheap $1 gap tools at the counter.
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May 1, 2013 06:25
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Thanks for the tips! You got me on the cap and rotor though - remember, I am a complete noob when it comes to car mechanics 
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May 1, 2013 06:36
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Those plugs come coated with anti-seize and the torque ratings take that into consideration. Don't put any anti-seize on the new plugs, it is unnecessary. Unless the plugs are double-platinum/iridium, that means both ends of the spark gap are coated, they won't last any longer; they also won't get better performance in any way compared to plain OE replacement plugs. Champion plugs do suck according to my very small sample size of 18 plugs; try the NGK copper plugs. The waste-spark system that coil-rail equipped I6 engines use tends to burn up plugs faster than other systems, and is pretty weird about what plugs it works well with. The extensions you listed are for 1/4" drive, yet the torque wrench and u-joint kit (which I don't think is necessary, I don't have to use anything but some 3" extensions when doing plugs on my 2000 TJ) are 3/8" drive. Get a set of 3/8" extensions. Torque wrenches are for final assembly only. Any socket set should come with a ratchet; use that for disassembly and snugging things up before putting the torque wrench to use. Another thing to remember about torque wrenches: extensions and wobble joints add error to the measurement. Try to avoid using them. That style of spark plug gap measurement tool is the worst kind possible. Get a set of feeler gauges, something like this: Feeler gauge. Feeler gauges should slide in with a bit of drag when you have the correct gap selected. Two people so far have mentioned either plug wires or a cap and rotor, things your engine does not have. I repeat, don't fret trying to get a cap and rotor, your engine does not have a distributor. One more thing, don't do plugs on a hot engine; the plugs expand and their bores contract when the engine is hot, making the job harder and more likely that you'll strip out the threads. I haven't heard of too many people stripping out the threads on 4.0 heads, but better safe than sorry. You also won't burn yourself like an idiot if you wait a bit 
EightBit fucked around with this message at 07:01 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 06:58
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EightBit posted:Those plugs come coated with anti-seize and the torque ratings take that into consideration. Don't put any anti-seize on the new plugs, it is unnecessary. Unless the plugs are double-platinum/iridium, that means both ends of the spark gap are coated, they won't last any longer; they also won't get better performance in any way compared to plain OE replacement plugs. Champion plugs do suck according to my very small sample size of 18 plugs; try the NGK copper plugs. The waste-spark system that coil-rail equipped I6 engines use tends to burn up plugs faster than other systems, and is pretty weird about what plugs it works well with. Extremely helpful, thanks a lot. Bookmarking this.
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May 1, 2013 07:09
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Went car shopping with my old man. It's a diesel.   Only it's never gonna be taken offroad. 
awesome-express fucked around with this message at 09:35 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 09:32
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awesome-express posted:
Well it IS a Grand...
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May 1, 2013 15:11
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Godholio posted:If you can remember, what wheels/backspacing did you have with the 33x12.5? I've still got probably another year before these OE tires wear down (and they're actually not bad in the mountains, though I hate the look), but that's the direction I want to go. I've got an inspection station that's jeep friendly so I can probably get away with sticking out a bit. If necessary I can do a budget boost, I guess. With a cragar soft 8, go with 4" backspacing. You may get some very slight rub when turning from that little air dam thing that hangs under the bumper. If you get any rubbing on the caliper, it will be super light. Just take some black marker, put it inside the wheel and see where it leaves a mark on the caliper. A simple hand file will give it enough clearance. Or just drive it for 15 minutes and it will self clearance.
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May 1, 2013 17:55
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I have no problem trimming that air dam. You're the first person I've run across who's actually tried the smaller backspacing with 15s. Seriously, thanks. Now I'm set for when these OE tires are worn enough to justify the $$$.
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May 1, 2013 18:19
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commissargribb posted:Well it IS a Grand... Mine loves being off-road. She does just fine. 
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May 1, 2013 18:21
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Tadhg posted:Mine loves being off-road. She does just fine. I'm only teasing. Grands are quite capable off road. The problem lies in fitting off-roading in between the PTA meetings and soccer practice. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:37 on May 1, 2013 |
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May 1, 2013 18:34
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awesome-express posted:Went car shopping with my old man.
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May 1, 2013 22:26
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commissargribb posted:I'm only teasing. Grands are quite capable off road. I did see another 5.9 in a parking lot the other day, and thought, "Hell, yeah!" Then saw that the back was plastered with "My child is an honor student blah blah derp" bumper stickers and the like. Soccer moms don't deserve that kind of horsepower!
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May 1, 2013 23:58
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Doesn't the 5.9 make something like 250 horsepower at the crank ?
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May 2, 2013 00:55
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jonathan posted:Doesn't the 5.9 make something like 250 horsepower at the crank ? That's it?
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May 2, 2013 02:13
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EightBit posted:That's it? 245 in HP, but a gently caress load of torque at 345. That moves that heavy rear end beast.
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May 2, 2013 03:03
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jonathan posted:Doesn't the 5.9 make something like 250 horsepower at the crank ? not after you put the supercharger in  
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May 2, 2013 03:45
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shookwell posted:not after you put the supercharger in I wish I could find the CRD version of the old Grand Cherokee.
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May 2, 2013 03:45
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commissargribb posted:I'm only teasing. Grands are quite capable off road. lol I'd love to get a WK Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 liter V8 and quadra trac II drivetrain as a cushy daily driver.
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May 2, 2013 05:16
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