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If you buy something the wrong side of 4000lbs with a V8 in it and then think MPG is up for discussion, you may wish to reevaluate your approach to things.
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Apr 27, 2013 20:23
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It's the american way damnit
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Apr 27, 2013 20:26
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blugu64 posted:It's the american way damnit
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Apr 27, 2013 20:36
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InitialDave posted:If you buy something the wrong side of 4000lbs with a V8 in it and then think MPG is up for discussion, you may wish to reevaluate your approach to things. EPA rating for my '91 is 15/21, I wasn't expecting 15 really but 9 is just unfair.
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Apr 28, 2013 00:19
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NOTinuyasha posted:EPA rating for my '91 is 15/21, I wasn't expecting 15 really but 9 is just unfair. The most likely cause is your driving.
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Apr 28, 2013 01:29
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I did my coil ohm test today just to see what I was working with. Leica's info seemed to be pretty spot on with one minor change. Good coils in his post were ohming out at below 5.3 ohms. All of mine were autoranging at around 5.25 kOhms with testing from the spring to one pin, and 0.7-0.8 ohms pin to pin. Minor correction but it all seems to work okay. One coil Ohmed out at 5.28 KOhms, I'll keep an eye on that one.
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Apr 28, 2013 02:14
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NOTinuyasha posted:EPA rating for my '91 is 15/21, I wasn't expecting 15 really but 9 is just unfair. Add this to my list of reasons why the lo-po five-oh is a boat anchor.
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Apr 30, 2013 19:57
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Been looking for a cheap reliable beater so I can park my volvo for a while and came across this 2000 vic police package for 1500 http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/ctd/3754376279.html The price seems reasonable, but they are one of the somewhat shadier dealers in town. Anything to really look out for on these cars? EDIT: Comedy option http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/ctd/3726928093.html VVV Yeah Ive noticed that with 200k+ cars too, ONLY 331K PLENTY OF LIFE LEFT!!!11!! ExtremeODD fucked around with this message at 18:22 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 18:14
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I love seeing ads with "only" xxx random mileage statements. At what point do you go, maybe that's not that low of an amount?
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May 2, 2013 18:18
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It honestly depends. On my old cabs, the owners would run the CVPIs for 200K in addition to the 100K that the cars had on them from previous duty, then rewind the odometers and typically run them for another 100K or until they could line up a replacement cab at an auction. At that point, the car would become a daily driver for until it died, so about 600-700K miles total in most cases. e: Had to get another part replaced last week. Starter died after I finished my delivery shift, so I had the car towed a mile up the road to a local garage and fixed. Here's hoping that I can make it at least a month before the next thing fails.
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May 2, 2013 18:53
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InitialDave posted:If you buy something the wrong side of 4000lbs with a V8 in it and then think MPG is up for discussion, you may wish to reevaluate your approach to things. Hey. HEY. The last gen CV is only 3900 lbs 
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May 2, 2013 19:01
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I thought I read somewhere the final Vics were like 4400 lbs. But then I haven't looked into it much, I just know they're big and heavy. In other news I found this note under my seat when I was cleaning the car out. edit: it even works in combination with my avatar 
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May 2, 2013 20:13
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Batman wrote that?
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May 2, 2013 20:42
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In my mind, yes 
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May 2, 2013 20:45
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leica posted:Batman wrote that?  http://www.the-gutters.com/comic/410-mohammad-f-haque
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May 2, 2013 20:56
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Made another trip to the CV graveyard, got a working OD cancel switch, lug wrench, and Police Interceptor badge now that I got my plates and tabs. Let's see how long it takes me to get hassled over the badge I had a similar shudder in the mid-40s that I thought was the torque converter, and found that if I left OD off until I was doing 50 or so it didn't happen. So I went to 93 octane fuel and after a few tanks it went away completely. Turned out to be just a misfire at low RPM. Might be worth a try if you're not already running premium. As for mileage, I'm getting a combined 18-ish MPG. ('94 GM GS w/175K) The_Raven fucked around with this message at 22:11 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 22:09
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I've been running regular because I read online it didn't need over that, I'll switch at the next couple fill ups and see.
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May 2, 2013 22:32
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:I thought I read somewhere the final Vics were like 4400 lbs. They probably are in active cop duty trim, all that radio gear and weapon storage has got to add up.
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May 3, 2013 05:50
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Fucknag posted:They probably are in active cop duty trim, all that radio gear and weapon storage has got to add up. Not to mention the cop 
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May 3, 2013 17:38
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Well obviously I was referring to curb weight. 
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May 3, 2013 18:54
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The transition from manuscript to cursive is really what does it for me about that note. Also reminds me of the "BITCH BRING ME MY poo poo" someone carved into the door to my apartment.
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May 3, 2013 22:20
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My friend just picked up an 01 P71 detective car, street appearance package and all that, 150k miles, 2800 bucks. It's in decent shape, been well maintained. HOWEVER, after a whopping 800 miles, it has decided that bearing clearances are negotiable and now has a pretty healthy sounding rod knock. What's the over/under on being able to just pull the pan and throw a new bearing in the offending rod and it not blowing up? How much is a replacement 4.6? Anybody in the bay area want to buy a P71 in need of a rod bearing? It's a shame, because the thing ran like a top until yesterday evening.
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May 4, 2013 03:44
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I'm pretty sure there's a non removable cross member under the engine, I recall doing an oil pan on a Mustang was a pain in the dick and don't know for sure if that crosses the Ford range. e: not looking good. 
INCHI DICKARI fucked around with this message at 04:23 on May 4, 2013 |
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May 4, 2013 04:08
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Cross post fror the AI image thread, but why do I want to ruin everything I own? 
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May 4, 2013 07:41
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Holdbrooks posted:Cross post fror the AI image thread, but why do I want to ruin everything I own? I have the weirdest boner right now... 
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May 4, 2013 07:53
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ExtremeODD posted:Been looking for a cheap reliable beater so I can park my volvo for a while and came across this 2000 vic police package for 1500 http://siouxfalls.craigslist.org/ctd/3754376279.html The price seems reasonable, but they are one of the somewhat shadier dealers in town. Anything to really look out for on these cars? I checked it out yesterday and after a quick test drive and one unexpected power slide threw 1200 his way and got it. One of the accessory pulleys is a bit noisy otherwise the car is rock solid. Just gotta get my hands on a push bar and a replacement spotlight and she will be looking nice.
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May 4, 2013 10:58
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:I'm pretty sure there's a non removable cross member under the engine, I recall doing an oil pan on a Mustang was a pain in the dick and don't know for sure if that crosses the Ford range. ..poo poo. That looks like a total pain in the rear end.
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May 4, 2013 16:24
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Looks like it would take less time to just replace the motor. A used 4.6 can't be that much.... Are you absolutely positive it's a rod knock? Have you had it checked out?
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May 4, 2013 17:30
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leica posted:Looks like it would take less time to just replace the motor. A used 4.6 can't be that much.... Just for the sake of argument, what else fits in the 4.6's place? 460 Big-block? 10cyl. from a van? I bet if the 10cyl. fit it'd go like stink. I've always had the idea kicking around my head to combine the frame and suspension from a P71 with the body of an old square Town Car, the 10-cylinder motor from a commercial truck, and some kind of stick-shift. Is that just a pipe-dream, or something do-able?
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May 4, 2013 22:05
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http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/72538_1999_ford_crown_victoria/ It's been done a few times, but as I recall it is not an easy swap. Badass, but not easy. edit: doh, wrong link.
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May 4, 2013 22:12
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Red_October_7000 posted:Just for the sake of argument, what else fits in the 4.6's place? 460 Big-block? 10cyl. from a van? I bet if the 10cyl. fit it'd go like stink. I've always had the idea kicking around my head to combine the frame and suspension from a P71 with the body of an old square Town Car, the 10-cylinder motor from a commercial truck, and some kind of stick-shift. Is that just a pipe-dream, or something do-able? 5.4 or 4.6 32v would be less work.
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May 4, 2013 22:14
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Holdbrooks posted:Cross post fror the AI image thread, but why do I want to ruin everything I own? This is the exact car that makes me want to get a p71 and put air-ride on it so I can have it look like that.
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May 5, 2013 02:17
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Negromancer posted:This is the exact car that makes me want to get a p71 and put air-ride on it so I can have it look like that. Yep, when I crash the truck I will be swapping the turbo ls and and bagging the p71. Also I drove its again today for the first time in a week, and its still awesome. I really like it since I got the ceramic tint installed, now it's like driving a couch in a walk in fridge. Tomorrow I hope to install the new radio, keyless entry/remote start, and new steering wheel with controls. Then it will be a proper DD.
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May 5, 2013 03:34
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Holdbrooks posted:Cross post fror the AI image thread, but why do I want to ruin everything I own? I usually don't like slammed, but that just works.
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May 5, 2013 07:22
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Holdbrooks posted:Yep, when I crash the truck I will be swapping the turbo ls and and bagging the p71. Also I drove its again today for the first time in a week, and its still awesome. I really like it since I got the ceramic tint installed, now it's like driving a couch in a walk in fridge. I think that car might have a static drop, only cause I think my cousin knows the owner of the car and bagged cars aren't as "hardcore" as just dropped cars, which I dont get. Either way, are p71's easy to bag? I have never come close to trying something like that and am curious how much work would be involved. Would it be a ful custom setup or can you buy kits for it?
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May 5, 2013 08:12
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On these cars how hard would it be to install a trac lock unit? After some rain yesterday noticed my 00 cvpi is damned one wheel peel happy and quite difficult to get the rear end to step out. Im willing to bet I can find at least one 8.8 28 spline unit and the rebuild kits arent too bad price wise. Im just technically not supposed to work on any cars in my neighborhood, but if its only an afternoon project screw it. Or is this something thats better left to someone more knowledgeable?
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May 5, 2013 13:06
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Turns out Explorer shafts are like 30.5 and 27.5 or so long and CV are 32.25 or so (both sides), so no luck on a cheap 31 spline junkyard shaft swap. Too bad, because I see LSD equipped Explorers at the yard with 31 spline shafts every time I go, and a cheap LSD swap plus shaft upgrade using a more commonly LSD equipped vehicle for a donor would be nice. Installing it - I've never done a Ford 8.8 but from what I hear, the carrier shims go under the bearing cups (on the housing side of the bearing) rather than under the carrier bearing cone. So you're going to want a differential case spreader unless you like trying to pound 5-thou thick round metal shims with a giant hole punched through the middle in between two pieces of metal that are pressed together, edgewise. That sounds like a recipe for bent shims, cursing, and thrown tools to me. Installing the LSD carrier won't require a full gear setup (getting backlash and pinion depth set to the right values simultaneously can be frustrating, in your case the pinion depth is already set, you just have to duplicate the backlash that was present with the factory carrier) so you have it a bit easier. Still, you're going to need a dial indicator and magnetic base for it, probably a decent 0-1" micrometer (not calipers) reading in thousandths of an inch, and a torque wrench. Doing it under the car is going to be no fun, but possible, if you were doing a full gear setup I would recommend pulling the axle.
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May 5, 2013 14:01
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ExtremeODD posted:On these cars how hard would it be to install a trac lock unit? After some rain yesterday noticed my 00 cvpi is damned one wheel peel happy and quite difficult to get the rear end to step out. Im willing to bet I can find at least one 8.8 28 spline unit and the rebuild kits arent too bad price wise. Im just technically not supposed to work on any cars in my neighborhood, but if its only an afternoon project screw it. Or is this something thats better left to someone more knowledgeable? I wouldn't do it if you can't work on cars where you live because you'll just be rushed and probably gently caress something up. Pay someone else to do it. Also bagging a Vic would probably be super easy. Most (civilian) of them already have bags on the rear (air ride), so all you would need to do is get bags for the front, splice in to the compressor lines for the rear, disconnect the level sensor in the rear and install a switch.
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May 5, 2013 16:08
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kastein posted:Installing it - I've never done a Ford 8.8 but from what I hear, the carrier shims go under the bearing cups (on the housing side of the bearing) rather than under the carrier bearing cone. So you're going to want a differential case spreader unless you like trying to pound 5-thou thick round metal shims with a giant hole punched through the middle in between two pieces of metal that are pressed together, edgewise. That sounds like a recipe for bent shims, cursing, and thrown tools to me. Some, maybe all(?), of the master install kits for axles like the 8.8 come with a sort of 2-piece shim stack setup for the carrier bearing cups, so that you can build a stack of shims that sit on a little lip of a "guide" shim. Then you can drive the guide shim in with nearly reckless abandon, sans case spreader. This shows what I'm talking about : http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/reider_racing_adjustable_carrier_shims/ That kind of shim kit makes it feasible to do the setup in your driveway without a case spreader. It's still not fun by any means, and I've always done it with the axle out of the vehicle, but it works. quote:Im just technically not supposed to work on any cars in my neighborhood, but if its only an afternoon project screw it. Or is this something thats better left to someone more knowledgeable? If you've never done a carrier swap before, it's not something you should try to rush through in an afternoon. For the first time, you'll probably spend a weekend trying to figure out how to get things in and out of the axle using whatever tools you have on hand, and reassuring yourself that the backlash is set correctly. murphle fucked around with this message at 16:16 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 16:12
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murphle posted:Some, maybe all(?), of the master install kits for axles like the 8.8 come with a sort of 2-piece shim stack setup for the carrier bearing cups, so that you can build a stack of shims that sit on a little lip of a "guide" shim. Then you can drive the guide shim in with nearly reckless abandon, sans case spreader. drat that's nifty! Thanks a ton for the info, I'll definitely buy a set of those if I do an 8.8 in the future. They did forget to mention Dana style axles (they only discussed salisbury style and third member/side adjuster style), where the shims are under the carrier cones - more annoying to set up without honed setup bearings, but way easier to get in and out of the housing without specialty shims. Still, I really like that 8.8 shim design, not quite as awesome as ford 9/GM 14 bolt/chrysler 8.25 with their side adjusters but still quite nice.
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May 5, 2013 16:47
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