What really matters is how you react, though: in my case, I grunted like a bear getting hit by a truck and said "OW" in the most gruff voice I could muster, shut off the saw, bent over for a minute, counted my fingers, looked at my chest, and then moved the fence to the other side of the god drat blade.
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 13:35 |
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I finished cutting my keys, because I was in a shared shop and didn't want anyone to change the alignment before I could come back the next day. Probably should have stopped
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The first cut after a kickback is the most exciting.
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Bad Munki posted:The first cut after a kickback is the most exciting. By the time it takes me to clean my pants out I'm usually pretty calm. Thankfully I've only had that one ever.
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I keep a piece of 3/4 ply next to the saw and clamp it to the fence for a stop block.
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Back to new (old) tool discussions. This came in the mail today ![]() ![]() Stanley #8 type 11
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Any recommendations on an inexpensive digital caliper? I've looked at the ones on Amazon and mostly they have good ones that are $100+ and cheap ones that >$20; and the few between are longer versions of the cheap ones. Reading reviews on the cheap ones it seems like a crapshoot, some people love them, some hate them. It's for hobbyist use so I don't need great accuracy but I don't want irritating either.
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wormil posted:Any recommendations on an inexpensive digital caliper? I've looked at the ones on Amazon and mostly they have good ones that are $100+ and cheap ones that >$20; and the few between are longer versions of the cheap ones. Reading reviews on the cheap ones it seems like a crapshoot, some people love them, some hate them. It's for hobbyist use so I don't need great accuracy but I don't want irritating either. Would like to hear some input on this as well. I bought a few of these calipers and they are much flimsier than what I have used in the past. It is difficult to make a precise measurement because the head flexes and the reading changes by as much as 5 thou.
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I bought a set from Harbor Freight and haven't had any trouble at all, they were <$30. They're fine for hobbyist uses (which is what I use mine for.) Oh, funny thing though: OPEN THE FRICKIN' BOX BEFORE YOU LEAVE. Someone had opened the box, swapped out the digital one for a dial one, and then bought the dial box with the digital one inside. That's great and all but then it means I accidentally bought the dialed one at the digital price and didn't realize until I got out to my truck. I returned it immediately, but I'm sure it made me look scketchy, even though I returned that in exchange for an actual dialed one, I never got any money back, really...still, that was the second set I'd bought that day (one was for someone else) so I'm sure it just looked sort of weird. ![]()
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Bad Munki posted:My 1965 Rockwell table saw has a right-tilt blade. I was cutting a bevel on a piece of 3/4" poplar, about 6"x10". Of COURSE it caught and with that blade tilted towards the fence like that, it REALLY got a good grip on it. Hit me just off-center, an inch or two down from my nip-line. The part I'd already cut is what tagged me, so I had this really interesting welt, here's an artist's rendition: Uh yeah DON'T CUT LIKE THAT. Move the fence. Yikes. Dial calipers: if you need the precision get some mitutoyo or estate sale some old nice ones, otherwise the 20-30$ ones are fairly indistinguishable, just know they're not accurate for setups.
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Not an Anthem posted:Uh yeah DON'T CUT LIKE THAT. Move the fence. Yikes. Yeah, no joke. Even at the time I knew better, it was just one of those lapse-of-judgement moments. Fortunately, said moment didn't cost me anything more than a bruise and a bit of pride.
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The chuck on my cordless Dewalt drill seems to have come out of true. There's a pretty noticeable wobble when it turns, even with a relatively short bit. I'm not sure if it's still in warranty or not, but if not, is this something I could fix myself? Or should I leave it to the pros?
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Bad Munki posted:e: I got my threads mixed up, here's the wood whisperer crosscut sled video I was referencing: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-cross-cut-sled/ Cool thanks, I've been watching a bunch of these since you posted it.
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Bad Munki posted:I bought a set from Harbor Freight and haven't had any trouble at all, they were <$30. They're fine for hobbyist uses (which is what I use mine for.) Wow. How cheap do you have to be to steal from Harbor Freight? That's like shoplifting at the dollar store. edit: I think I just invented a new "yo momma" joke... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:57 on May 6, 2013 |
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I have that digital caliper from HF and every time I've checked it against my Mitutoyo Micrometer it's been within .001
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tonedef131 posted:I have that digital caliper from HF and every time I've checked it against my Mitutoyo Micrometer it's been within .001 I've checked mine against Brown and Sharp mics, and NIST gauge blocks. Always within spec, and cost less than ![]()
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Has anyone heard of the Benchtop brand cordless toolkit? I've been searching online and haven't found poo poo other than a few pictures? I was going to buy it from a guy on a craigslist like site. It's a Benchtop Pro brand toolkit with a drill, circular saw, orbital sander and Jigsaw with 12v battery and charger. The guy wants $60, and I cannot find any information on any of this. Is it just as lovely of a brand as it seems to be turning out to be? Edit: To answer my own question. BenchTop was sold at Kmart for some time, manufactured by Delta power tools or something to that extent. This company was bought out by Bosch, and Kmart and Sears merged, so Kmart now sells craftsman power tools. Of what little I found they weren't a terrible brand, but it's hard to get batteries and whatnot for them now. Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 16:38 on May 15, 2013 |
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The poo poo charger that came with the poo poo FIRE STORM Black & Decker drill I have no longer functions. Since the batteries don't hold a charge worth poo poo in the first place, I am a bit stuck. I realize I bought a cheap drill, but christ did this thing suck. Even after an hour charge, you could drill maybe half a dozen pilot holes and put in a few screws if you were feeling lazy, and then it would be dead again. For a cordless drill, how much do I have to spend to avoid absolute crap like this? Something that I won't have to replace in 12 months. I am in the US, if that matters. Happy to hear specific recommendations, too ![]() I was reading about Impact drivers and I almost want one now, but I imagine the cost of a decent one will quickly put me off...
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Kaluza-Klein posted:The poo poo charger that came with the poo poo FIRE STORM Black & Decker drill I have no longer functions. Since the batteries don't hold a charge worth poo poo in the first place, I am a bit stuck. All I can tell you is that I've been supremely satisfied with the Li-ion Dewalt drill/driver set I got for Christmas a couple years ago. The batteries last forever and charge up very quickly, so there's very little downtime. I don't know what your price range is, but the set I have is $230 at Lowe's. It's not cheap, but the most expensive tool is the one you buy twice.
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Plus, if you already have older dewalt gear, you can just buy the li-ion batteries/charger and boom, instant upgrade without rebuying a bunch of tools. Also, aren't the li-ion batteries significantly lighter? In any event, if you want batteries that won't poo poo out on you in a few months, li-ion is the answer.
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Bad Munki posted:Plus, if you already have older dewalt gear, you can just buy the li-ion batteries/charger and boom, instant upgrade without rebuying a bunch of tools. Also, aren't the li-ion batteries significantly lighter? In any event, if you want batteries that won't poo poo out on you in a few months, li-ion is the answer. Maybe they changed this in later models, but the NiCa drill I used to have had a completely different battery connection than the li-ion ones. I remember looking into this myself before I got my new ones and there weren't any better options available for what I had.
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When was that? Because everything I'd seen so far said they were interchangeable and I've literally just been waiting for one or two more batteries to die before I upgrade all my batteries...if that's not the case...![]() e: Looking at their website, they say, for their nicad and li-ion 18v batteries, "compatible with 18v tools," they don't specify one or the other. Should be fully interchangeable (chargers notwithstanding.) Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:59 on May 30, 2013 |
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I have a Makita brushless li-ion drill and impact driver, and I've literally never had them run out in the middle of a job. I've only recharged them because I felt like I should, not because I actually had to in order to finish. It's bizarre. e: these ones: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LXT239-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Batteries/dp/B0089AQ912/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369949458&sr=8-1&keywords=lxt239 I got the refurb version and saved 70 dollars or so and the only visible difference was some scratching on the bottom of one of the batteries. Went with brushless because ![]() Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:33 on May 30, 2013 |
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Yeah that brushless set is awesome. I bought mine back in February and I'm still on my first battery.
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stubblyhead posted:Maybe they changed this in later models, but the NiCa drill I used to have had a completely different battery connection than the li-ion ones. I remember looking into this myself before I got my new ones and there weren't any better options available for what I had. Dewalt split the line into 18V which has nicad and lithium from the 20v max line which is lithium only (note there isn't actually a voltage difference, all 18V cells put out roughly 20V charged). I think this is a nice thing to do for customers with older tools but it fragments them bit. Odds are at some point they'll drop the old line and focus on the max lines, although that may be a while out. Milwaukee by contrast moved to M12 and M18 and dropped the old lines entirely. I haven't followed the other brands as closely but it seems like maikita is also focused on lithium. Ryobi is interesting...I'm going to buy into them for their yard tools and a cordless inflator/tire pump but they have like 5 or 6 batteries. They're actually all compatible but it's still confusing as hell.
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My favorite thing about my dewalt 18v cordless tools is the bank of chargers I have on the wall and the stack of batteries nearby. Even if they're all nicad and getting old, I never notice because I've always got batteries cycling through the chargers. I don't go for brand loyalty but in some cases, there are advantages. ![]()
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Bad Munki posted:My favorite thing about my dewalt 18v cordless tools is the bank of chargers I have on the wall and the stack of batteries nearby. Even if they're all nicad and getting old, I never notice because I've always got batteries cycling through the chargers. I don't go for brand loyalty but in some cases, there are advantages. The way it is with cordless you basically have to be loyal. Or at least very thoughtful. Sticking to one line is also cheaper because you can buy tool-only and save by spreading fewer batteries/chargers across more tools.
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It's kind of funny that cordless tools are so proprietary that way, because the cells inside are almost always just bog-standard 18650s. Only the mechanical connector and possibly the charging logic are different from one brand to the next.
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No no no, not proprietary, standard. That's the great thing about standards: there are so many to choose from!
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Yeah, it would be great to be able to buy cheap chinese plastic shells in various manufacturer-specific shapes and be able to load them up with good quality 18650s.
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I've always wondered if replacing cells in dead, tired batteries would be worth it over buying new (often expensive) batteries. I've never remembered to pull one apart when they die, I usually chuck them and then remember the next day.
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Kaluza-Klein posted:The poo poo charger that came with the poo poo FIRE STORM Black & Decker drill I have no longer functions. Since the batteries don't hold a charge worth poo poo in the first place, I am a bit stuck. I really like the little bosch 12v things
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rotor posted:I really like the little bosch 12v things Bosch 12V are excellent. They have some of the highest reviews on Amazon. Although this is where I"ll breifly plug for Milwaukee which has everyone beat in terms of tool variety, especially with 12V. Given the above battery discussion, that's a consideration. If you can stretch to buy a Milwaukee initially it opens up a lot of options (Bosch and Maikita have decent line-ups, Dewalt 12V is limited for now) that you can pick up tool-only from ebay. But I definitely think 12V is a great compromise. A quality 12V lithium tool has a cheap 18+V tool beat in every category. Consider the 20V Black and Decker lithium has 115 lb ft of torque, compared to 250 for a 12V milwaukee, or 220 for 12V porter cable. From answering this question before I'd consider the porter cable. I think of porter cable as the low end of the high end brands. The 12V drill kit is $88 (with two batteries) and the drill+Impact kit is $115, either is a great deal in my opinion. I also think ryobi is fine. I've seen some pros using it and they have some interesting things including yard tools which use their batteries. I don't think you need the impact driver unless you're building a deck, and I'd otherwise advise skipping it, but when they come so cheaply in kits it can be worth it, if only because more drivers on the job means less bit changing.
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Trying to get this Craigslist table saw rolling along: ![]() ![]()
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A green powerlink belt? WHAT IS THIS WITCHCRAFT?!
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Bad Munki posted:No no no, not proprietary, standard. That's the great thing about standards: there are so many to choose from!
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I just got a new (to me) truck and needed a better toolbox for the bed than the plastic one I had so I bought this old as gently caress Knaack box off craigslist for $80. Rust removal, primer, paint has already been done. I painted it a gloss gray, very similar to AbsentMindedWelder's lathe if you have been following his repainting of it. I also tig welded the feet a bit since a couple of the welds were cracked, presumably from it banging around for 50-ish years. Just gotta touch up the paint and get locks for it. The inside is only getting cleaned and not getting painted since it will just get scratched from my tools anyway. Anybody dealt with these old boxes before? I haven't tried fitting any yet, but I have no clue what size padlocks are going to work on this thing. The new ones use Master #5s apparently. I guess I could contact Knaack and see if anyone there knows. I couldn't find a model number for the box anywhere on it, but it measures 48L x 24W x 24H. Pictures of the finished product will come after I get locks for it and toss it in the bed of the truck. Pictures from the Craigslist ad: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iForge fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Bad Munki posted:A green powerlink belt? WHAT IS THIS WITCHCRAFT?! That's the brand that Harbor Freight carries. I think it's one of the few things they sell that is made in the USA. I have one on my old Craftsman table saw and I'll probably get one for my jointer.
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I think I need a brushcutter but I'm not really 100% sure. My yard has a lot of loose rock retaining walls that have grass growing wild up between the stones as well as rock edging around raised garden beds. Oh, and a good portion of the back yard (and some of the front) is overgrowing with blackberry bushes. I currently have a battery powered string trimmer but it's not very powerful and the string gets thrashed extremely quickly against the rocks so requires constant bumping. Any recommendations on what a good brand/cutting head would be for this situation? I don't know a whole lot about brushcutters other than looking at the marketing sites for some different brands like Stihl etc plus seeing a few in home depot. I have a gas mower (4 stroke I guess since it has separate gas and oil?) so a gas trimmer/cutter that used the same would be ideal.
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 13:35 |
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Hypnolobster posted:I've always wondered if replacing cells in dead, tired batteries would be worth it over buying new (often expensive) batteries. I've never remembered to pull one apart when they die, I usually chuck them and then remember the next day. I have one dead 18v Milwaukee lithium and one dying. Was wondering if I could swap a possibly good cell from one to the other and save it. Not sure how to tell which cells are good or bad though
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