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Plane swap! mds2's plane arrived! It looks even better in person, very high quality workmanship.  Sorry, there was a little wax residue I should have wiped off but didn't notice before taking pictures. I wanted to try it but that will have to wait until this evening.
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May 6, 2013 19:38
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Bad Munki posted:Any advice for bending a bit of plywood strip? Like, a strip of 3/4" ply, maybe 1 1/4" wide. Long, though, maybe a full 8' long, and I need to do a couple different bends in it. Alternately I could use multiple segments along the edge I'd like to use this to trim, but it'd be way awesome if I could get it out of one smooth, continuous piece. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0ikg9NdUvM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qrQn84kVIk
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May 6, 2013 19:59
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wormil posted:Plane swap! mds2's plane arrived! It looks even better in person, very high quality workmanship. Glad it got there! Yours is supposed to be here today too. Im very excited! It was set pretty fine but who knows after shipping. To retract the iron tap it on The heel of the plane. That is padauk, hard maple and walnut. There was a blowout on the mouth when I was filing it. I used epoxy to fix it and that seemed to work ok.
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May 6, 2013 21:23
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I got your router plane! This is sweet I only have a very small one so this will come in handy. Your tightening mechanism for the iron is very clever. I noticed the compound bevel too. Or I think that is what is called. Sharp. 
mds2 fucked around with this message at 18:30 on May 7, 2013 |
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May 7, 2013 03:08
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mds2 posted:It was set pretty fine but who knows after shipping. To retract the iron tap it on The heel of the plane. That is padauk, hard maple and walnut. There was a blowout on the mouth when I was filing it. I used epoxy to fix it and that seemed to work ok. It was pouring rain today and luckily I was home because the mailman left it on the stoop. It would have been soaked. A few taps with a hammer to adjust the blade and it was making fine shavings. I secretly hoped it would be a smoother because my Buck Bros. has a gigantic mouth and doesn't easily make fine shavings. Also, now I have an excuse to make a small hammer for adjusting wood planes. mds2 posted:I got your router plane! This is sweet I only have a very small one so this will come in handy. Your tightening mechanism for the iron is very clever. I decided to go with a router plane because you have been making bench planes for a while. The body is obviously walnut. The oversized knobs are maple heartwood from a tree that blew down last winter. I left the knobs oversize to help with control. The Allen key was ground on my Goodell Pratt hand crank grinder so as not to lose temper then flattened and finished by hand. I feel like I got the better end of the deal but hopefully you will find it useful.
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May 7, 2013 04:02
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Here's an art deco kinda lookin box I thought up. 3/4 walnut sides and lid, maple splines, ebony and maple inlaid compass rose on top. Bottom is 1/8 maple set flush into rabbets. Can't wait til I have the tools and space to make it.
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May 8, 2013 03:03
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My next big project I'm attempting is a coffee table. I'm going to buy the materials on Sunday, I'm quite excited. I'm planning on using pocket screws for most of the joints. Would pocket screwing the aprons to the legs be enough strength, or should I put in a corner brace as well? Here's what I'm going for, there will be a bottom shelf but I haven't drawn it in yet. 
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May 8, 2013 03:40
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Finally got a Nova chuck and was playing around today, my first bowls. Pics are terrible. The first one needs more finish.  Got a little cocky on this one and tried some inlays. Filled a void with padauk dust and superglue then inlaid a copper band.  Meow Meow Meow posted:Would pocket screwing the aprons to the legs be enough strength, or should I put in a corner brace as well? Corner brace or tenons if you want it to last a long time.
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May 8, 2013 06:18
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Nice router plane, "Rick M." Are hex keys made from hardened steel?
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May 8, 2013 06:41
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MasonChumpia posted:Nice router plane, "Rick M." Are hex keys made from hardened steel? I believe so, this hex key was pretty drat hard. I was going by wormil over there, but changed it for various reasons. Originally I was going to copy the EC Emmerich body but I like the square body shape better plus it's easier.
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May 8, 2013 07:34
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I finally got fed up with waiting for prices to drop on deck furniture, so I decided that I am going to build my own. I'm building up my equipment with the intention of eventually building a big farmhouse style table, and then potentially building items to sell locally. I'm looking for a good circular saw and from what I have seen online, Makitas look to be the frontrunner. I'm torn between getting their normal circular saw and their hypoid. Regular: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007F-7-1-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B004YIALZI/ref=pd_cp_hi_2 Hypoid: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5477NB-Amp-4-Inch-Hypoid/dp/B002FBLVAU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=A94YBIMJOLHF&coliid=IM9YKIVTGK12C If anyone has any suggestions or advice, that would be greatly appreciated. breakfall87 fucked around with this message at 23:23 on May 8, 2013 |
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May 8, 2013 23:20
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wormil posted:It was pouring rain today and luckily I was home because the mailman left it on the stoop. It would have been soaked. A few taps with a hammer to adjust the blade and it was making fine shavings. I secretly hoped it would be a smoother because my Buck Bros. has a gigantic mouth and doesn't easily make fine shavings. Also, now I have an excuse to make a small hammer for adjusting wood planes. Where did you get the hardware for the router plane? I'd like to make one of those Edit: Ah, I see, allen wrench. Clever dwoloz fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 9, 2013 |
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May 9, 2013 01:15
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Jewelery box made out of laminated cherry with a few applications of Tung Oil and some polyurethane to finish. I copied a heart shape to word (outside) and copied it again at a slightly smaller size (inside) and printed them out. The larger heart was for the outside of the top and bottom pieces, and the smaller one was for the inside of the bottom and the part that sticks out on the bottom of the top piece and fastens in to the bottom. I found it was best to do the complete bottom first, then only do the "jutting out" piece of the top next. Place the top's jutting piece into the bottom, and trace around the bottom piece to get the top aligned properly. When cut out, use a sander to make them perfectly aligned around the edges. It's best to make your first cuts with the router as shallow as possible, in a few runs, (less than 1/4", then use the edge of a belt sander to get it perfectly on the line. once you have done that you can use a straight router bit with a bearing guide on the top to easily (and perfectly) cut down until you are nearly through the bottom piece. Next cut it out using a saw and finish with the belt/table sander. When doing the inside of the box, you just have to take that first 1/4" off very carefully since you can't get a sander inside. Once done, use the bearing bit. 
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May 9, 2013 05:42
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dwoloz posted:Where did you get the hardware for the router plane? I'd like to make one of those That, a wing nut and thumbscrew like this:
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May 9, 2013 06:57
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Is there anyone here (or elsewhere) that could carve a custom wooden beer tap handle for me? Google has kinda failed me, and I would pay a fair amount for (what I would think of as) a fairly simple design (a straight stalk of wheat). Something like these: 
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May 9, 2013 16:57
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I could turn something for you but my carving skills are likely poo poo. I made a handful of custom handles for friends (and that reminds me, someone over in the homebrew thread is waiting on some embarrassingly over-due east indian rosewood handles that I need to finish up.)
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May 9, 2013 17:01
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My daughter made a bottle stopper for my wife on Mother's Day.  
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May 13, 2013 03:29
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Do any of you guys use kreg jigs? I'm thinking of picking one up for some projects because I don't really want to get into doing lots of real joinery for things like a coffee table etc.
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May 13, 2013 11:00
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Great mothers day gift! I have a kreg jig. It is awesome for making cabinets, you can bang them out pretty quick. You have to clamp the poo poo out the joint before you screw them together though, otherwise the pieces will move.
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May 13, 2013 13:47
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RagingBoner posted:Is there anyone here (or elsewhere) that could carve a custom wooden beer tap handle for me? Google has kinda failed me, and I would pay a fair amount for (what I would think of as) a fairly simple design (a straight stalk of wheat). I'd definitely love to help you out. I've done keg handles in the past, and they're a ton of fun. PM me if you're still looking.
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May 14, 2013 01:04
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Sylink posted:Do any of you guys use kreg jigs? I'm thinking of picking one up for some projects because I don't really want to get into doing lots of real joinery for things like a coffee table etc. I like to design and assemble, I don't like to worry about tenons and stuff for home furniture projects. The Kreg jig rocks.
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May 14, 2013 02:59
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How do I safely sterilize bowl blanks that will be used as salad bowls? Basically kill the spalting fungus and any critters that have bored inside.
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May 14, 2013 15:03
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I imagine treating them as any normal bacteria you want to kill off would work: bake them at a sufficiently high temp for long enough to bring the entire mass up to temp and keep it there for a little while. Pretty much all meat-borne nasties die off well before 200°, if you found a middle ground between that and combustion temp you should be fine, I'd guess? Otherwise, maybe find someone with an autoclave? Can you put wood in those things? I don't know what effect the steam would have. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:09 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 15:07
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wormil posted:How do I safely sterilize bowl blanks that will be used as salad bowls? Basically kill the spalting fungus and any critters that have bored inside. weirdly enough I remember a letter to fine woodworking about this and they asked a food scientist and the upshot was 'don't worry about it' I'll try to dig up the article tonight
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May 14, 2013 15:13
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"spalted wood results from the activity of fungi and kther microorganisms present jn wood. Microfungi and bacteria often produce pigments that stain but do not decay wood appreciably. White-rot fungi produce dark zo e lines in wood and can cause significant decay. once the water content falls below 20 tp 25% though, the fungi and microorganisms become inactive and eventually die. Although it is possible for the pigments to leach out of spalted wood, there is no evidence that this happens. spalted wood has no known health risks and should be safe to use for food containers and serving utensils." - Karen Nakasone, mycologist at the Forest Products Labratories in Madison, Wis. Fine Woodworking Feb 1996
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May 14, 2013 15:20
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My mom is a chemist, her tip was to use water and ascorbic acid. If you put in enough and let it rest for a few days, it will kill any bacteria or fungus. You would have to check beforehand if this would lead to unpleasant discoloring.
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May 14, 2013 19:47
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My tip is to boil them. It helps reduce cracking while drying as well.
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May 14, 2013 22:10
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Wow, awesome responses. Thanks for the article rotor. I'm just starting to experiment with pre-treatments and just pulled two blanks from a soap and water mix where they've been soaking for 48 hours. One was very green oak which I read is very prone to splitting; the other years old spalted crotch maple and rock hard. I'll report any results.
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May 14, 2013 23:42
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My friend's Dad carved a bowl out of a burl he cut off a tree, not too sure the species. It was more of a show piece sitting on the coffee table. He didn't do anything to it, one day he heard a small scratching noise while he was reading a book. It was some sort of bug digging inside the bowl edges, he threw it in the oven for a couple hours and hasn't heard anything since.
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May 15, 2013 02:23
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cant remember where I put the goddamn keys or what I had for lunch today but i can remember weird-rear end poo poo i read in a magazine 17 years ago
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May 15, 2013 05:23
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The dry maple blank cut much easier although it was still hard. ChaoticSeven posted:My tip is to boil them. It helps reduce cracking while drying as well. How long do you boil them?
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May 15, 2013 20:29
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I've read (and carried out) 1 hour per inch of thickness. Make certain they are good and submerged, weigh them down if necessary. When you take them out put them under something till they cool down to keep them from drying out too fast on the end grain and potentially cracking after all that effort.
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May 16, 2013 05:07
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If you can get past the Festool ad or just embrace it because they're pretty cool tools this is a pretty cool build. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw1B0MWhjuM Do you guys have any favorites? It's always fun to see how other people work and what they come up with.
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May 16, 2013 05:26
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I made a new sled and have been fretting over getting the fence 90 to the blade. This guy has a super fast and easy way of checking with a dial indicator. Now I did it a little differently and made one jig to do both, checking my sled fence against the blade. He made several videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZM1OBcC6ok http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG1HJ_JOIDs
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May 16, 2013 15:53
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Ah, that's nice.
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May 16, 2013 16:39
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Tigren posted:If you can get past the Festool ad or just embrace it because they're pretty cool tools this is a pretty cool build. Blech, saw this on reddit and didn't like it - I liked the music more than the product. Does anyone know if gluing 4/4 hard wood to a ply backer is a terrible idea?
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May 16, 2013 23:51
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mds2 posted:Great mothers day gift! Kreg jigs are great. It's obviously not considered fine jointery but its very quick and very effective. I second the clamping comment. They can walk quite a bit more than expected (I think part of the problem is when you don't center the screw in the hole). I recommend at least the $40 set. If you can afford the more expensive sets I recommend it. The full jig with vacuum attachment and kreg clamp is great. Also get a screw assortment to start out. I've been able to bang out some decent work pretty drat fast with this thing.
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May 17, 2013 00:18
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With the point I'm at not strictly speaking a woodworking question but seemed a good place to ask. I'm making a toybox for my nephew that is an SUV as seen below! Obviously the major work is knocked out, but coming up blank on what I want to do for wheels. I think for actual movement I'm just going to shove some casters on the bottom and call it a day, but I want to put something on the sides that at least look like wheels but don't quite touch the ground. I looked at lawn mower wheels but they were about $10 each. So hoping for a cheaper solution I can paint up to look right. For scale the whole thing is 48" long, 18" wide, and 14" high at the roof. Edit: Major construction was done at my parents' so my access to nice tools is much more limited for something already in about the right shape. Alaan fucked around with this message at 00:57 on May 17, 2013 |
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May 17, 2013 00:46
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Go to your local bike shop and talk to the guys there. I got these 16" semi-pneumatic wheels for $5 a piece for a miniature chariot I'm working on: Alternately, go to Home Depot or Lowe's, head into the garden department (the outdoor section), and wander towards the back where they have all the garden carts and such. I know for a fact that Lowe's sells individual cart tires, they'll be more "chunky" that what I posted up there, but they might be just the thing you're looking for. Put an axle through them and they'll spin nicely, too. The ones I saw the other day were probably 8" wheels, maybe 2-3" thick.
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May 17, 2013 01:02
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Bad Munki posted:a miniature chariot I'm working on i need regular updates on this project
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May 17, 2013 05:40
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