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Billy Zane posted:It also doesn't have M3 side mirrors, which was a dead giveaway to me, at least.  completely missed that.
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May 11, 2013 07:08
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Tab8715 posted:Are there any other good sites for trying to find a 3-Series Manual Wagon? I've been using AutoTrader and Ebay with limited luck. No. Do what I did and wait 3 years for one to pop up on C/L. televiper posted:
Dantu posted:Kellye Blue Book Value is hahahahahahahaha you do realize that KBB has absolutely zero bearing on the used BMW market past like 5 years from new, right? e: re-read your post, realized you're making fun of this dude more than I thought. Yes he's being a scumbag but let's be honest anyone not doing their due diligence on a purchase of this magnitude was gonna get screwed regardless. SuperDucky fucked around with this message at 09:25 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 09:13
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E:Double post
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May 11, 2013 09:21
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Dantu posted:This guy deserves a punch in the mouth. Agreed. He's committing fraud. It's one thing to dress up your 323 as an M, it's another thing altogether to sell it as one.
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May 11, 2013 14:00
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I am going to look at an 03 330i with zhp package later this week. Anything specific I need to look for beyond standard used car stuff? It has 64k miles. I haven't had a BMW before or had much experience driving them.
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May 11, 2013 14:13
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Tyro posted:I am going to look at an 03 330i with zhp package later this week. Anything specific I need to look for beyond standard used car stuff? It has 64k miles. I haven't had a BMW before or had much experience driving them. Window Regulators, the Tail Lamp wiring, Cooling System should have been completely replaced by now as preventative maintenance, VANOS rattle, tears in the subframe, Control Arm Bushings should have been replaced by now, fuel pump should also have been replaced by now as preventative maintenance. Other than that, you just want to look at the standard stuff, basically look for someone who's really maintained their car and has the records and enthusiasm to prove it. If not you'll be looking at dropping 1-3k off the bat in maintenance if you do you own work (Add another 2-3k in labor if not). Also, read this. Viper_3000 fucked around with this message at 14:35 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 14:33
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revmoo posted:Agreed. He's committing fraud. Exactly, regardless of whether buyers should practice due diligence, this is actual fraud.
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May 11, 2013 15:26
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So this is the car I'm looking at. http://www.auctiondirectusa.com/vehicle-details/2009-bmw-3-series-335i-xdrive-sedan-4d-victor-ny-id-4349042 The way I see it I get more horsepower, lower payments, and 1/2 the miles in exchange for giving up my 6 speed, navigation and aluminum trim. I was supposed to go look at it today, but apparently the manager took it to Buffalo for business without telling anyone. Bulky Bartokomous fucked around with this message at 15:32 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 15:29
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Viper_3000 posted:Window Regulators, the Tail Lamp wiring, Cooling System should have been completely replaced by now as preventative maintenance, VANOS rattle, tears in the subframe, Control Arm Bushings should have been replaced by now, fuel pump should also have been replaced by now as preventative maintenance. Other than that, you just want to look at the standard stuff, basically look for someone who's really maintained their car and has the records and enthusiasm to prove it. If not you'll be looking at dropping 1-3k off the bat in maintenance if you do you own work (Add another 2-3k in labor if not). As much as they are prone to failure, I wouldn't worry about preventively replacing window regulators; just do it when they break. Also, I've never heard of the fuel pump being a point of failure in the E46 beyond a level consistent with other makes/models. I will concede that a fuel filter replacement by that mileage would be a good idea, however. Tail light wiring on that car is covered by a recall campaign now IIRC. As much as people make it out to be this huge bogeyman, I'm not entirely convinced that rear subframe failure is all that much of an issue in the E46. I talked about it at my indie shop right about when I bought my current car and their (strictly anecdotal) findings are in line with what the Bimmerfestwiki reports; that it is a problem almost entirely confined to early E46s (323s and 328s), with coupes and frequently-tracked cars being most likely to see failure. Later cars can still experience failure, but it is *very* rare; again, cars that are frequently driven on the track are most susceptible.
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May 11, 2013 17:07
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revmoo posted:Agreed. He's committing fraud. Based on his posting style, he probably thinks it is an M3 because the original troll that sold it to him presented it to him as such and he never bothered verifying it. ALSO: window regulators are easy E46 diy's once you do it once. Just buy them as you can afford and remember to USE YOUR WINDOWS, I think it really helps them last longer if you work them out. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:35 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 17:31
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i'm replacing all the belts on the front of my 318i (m42 engine) because one slipped and made the alternator belt explode while I was getting off the freeway, literally 20 minutes after I spent a whole grip of cash on fancy brake pads for the loving car I just want to make sure I'm getting the right ones, are these the right widths? I don't have anything to measure the ones I've got and one of them is straight up ribbons so I'm just hoping the website is right http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/BMW/318i/Dayco/Drive_Belt/1992/Base/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/DY17350.html http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/BMW/318i/Gates/Drive_Belt/1992/Base/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/GAT7405.html http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/BMW/318i/Gates/Drive_Belt/1992/Base/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/GATK040335.html
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May 11, 2013 18:45
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I have one of the fabled rare-ish e46 manual wagons, any good way to figure out the value? I've been idly contemplating selling to go to something new and if it's difficult to find comparable cars on craigslist in my area (Pacific Northwest - Canada) what would be a good option?
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May 11, 2013 18:59
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priznat posted:I have one of the fabled rare-ish e46 manual wagons, any good way to figure out the value? I've been idly contemplating selling to go to something new and if it's difficult to find comparable cars on craigslist in my area (Pacific Northwest - Canada) what would be a good option? Did you try autotempest.com ? it searches ebay, craigslist, all the other ones
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May 11, 2013 19:11
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yyyyyy posted:Did you try autotempest.com ? it searches ebay, craigslist, all the other ones Nice, did not know about that one. I will check it out.
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May 11, 2013 19:17
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yyyyyy posted:i'm replacing all the belts on the front of my 318i (m42 engine) because one slipped and made the alternator belt explode while I was getting off the freeway, literally 20 minutes after I spent a whole grip of cash on fancy brake pads for the loving car Id grab the ones listed on pelican parts myself. They know their stuff with bmws
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May 11, 2013 19:19
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Dyscrasia posted:Id grab the ones listed on pelican parts myself. They know their stuff with bmws They don't seem to have the ones for the M42 engine, there's 3 belts, one to the (from memory here ) alternator, one to the water pump, and one to the AC/power steering, :/ edit: yeah, they just have one of the belts, the rest are newer different guys, it's a sept 92 e36 with a M42 engine yyyyyy fucked around with this message at 19:49 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 19:36
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My e46 just rolled over 150k, and it's high time to do the cooling system. Is there one big kit out there I can order? If not, what are the critical parts I should get other than water pump/thermostat/sensor/expansion tank/hoses?
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May 11, 2013 19:37
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The Third Man posted:My e46 just rolled over 150k, and it's high time to do the cooling system. Is there one big kit out there I can order? If not, what are the critical parts I should get other than water pump/thermostat/sensor/expansion tank/hoses? I can't direct link due to their lovely webshop, but BavAuto has an overhaul kit I've been eyeing that contains the following: code:
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May 11, 2013 20:15
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Test drove a 99 528i with 134k miles on it and made it a couple blocks before it overheated. Thread title delivers 
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May 11, 2013 21:19
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yyyyyy posted:They don't seem to have the ones for the M42 engine, there's 3 belts, one to the (from memory here ) alternator, one to the water pump, and one to the AC/power steering, :/ Odd, I have an e30 with m42 , I see all of the belts listed for mine. I also see them listed in the e36 section... 318i/is/iC (1992-12/93)
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May 11, 2013 21:23
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MrChips posted:As much as they are prone to failure, I wouldn't worry about preventively replacing window regulators; just do it when they break. Also, I've never heard of the fuel pump being a point of failure in the E46 beyond a level consistent with other makes/models. I will concede that a fuel filter replacement by that mileage would be a good idea, however. Tail light wiring on that car is covered by a recall campaign now IIRC. I'm not so much on early replacement of window regulators either, it's just something to be aware of and that can be checked for and used to drive down price if they are on the way out. Fuel pumps by that age should have enough hours to warrant replacement, there's a big thread over on e46fanatics and they tend to soft fail/fail after about 5-7 years, so at the very least you want to know when it was last replaced. Tail light wiring may be a recall issue, however, getting a dealership to do it is another matter. For example, here at the lovely dealership in Nashville, they wanted $350 per taillight to fix the issue, and they didn't budge until letters from a lawyer were sent to both their dealership and BMW Corporate. (In the case of my friend) Subframe I agree with your points, but I'd much rather check and make sure I'm not buying something that needs a $3000 fix. My car (323) had the recall done, so I felt much better about buying it over a different example.
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May 11, 2013 21:53
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Just had to fix the GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM on my E34. This time it was the auxiliary water pump that had stopped working and was leaking coolant. I pulled out the whole unit, including the heater core valve and replaced it with a junkyard unit that I bought for  . I also replaced the upper radiator hose that I had patched a year ago. The brand new replacement hose had been sitting in my trunk for the last 4 months because  .I'm probably a bad BMW owner for the fact that I tend to replace broken parts with junkyard parts that last a couple of years before I have to go and get another junkyard part to replace that one. It's too tempting though when the pick a part near me always has about a dozen BMWs in the yard and they only charge $10-$20 for pretty much ANYTHING that I pull off of them, even if the parts are a couple of hundred dollars or more new. Edmund Sparkler fucked around with this message at 21:59 on May 11, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 21:55
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The Third Man posted:My e46 just rolled over 150k, and it's high time to do the cooling system. Is there one big kit out there I can order? If not, what are the critical parts I should get other than water pump/thermostat/sensor/expansion tank/hoses? ECS has a more expansive (and expensive kit) than BAV, which includes the tensioner and pulley if you haven't done those.
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May 11, 2013 22:03
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FIRST TIME posted:It's too tempting though when the pick a part near me always has about a dozen BMWs in the yard and they only charge $10-$20 for pretty much ANYTHING that I pull off of them, even if the parts are a couple of hundred dollars or more new. There is nothing wrong with using junk yard parts. I do it all the time as long as the parts are in good shape. OEM is almost always better than aftermarket (except certain circumstances)
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May 11, 2013 22:08
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I'd use junkyard parts all day on my 328 if I could. I'd probably avoid them on my M3, but thats just cause I track that. Another M3 blew his expansion tank nipple at the autoX today
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May 11, 2013 22:11
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I'll be looking at an E60 5 Series diesel in the coming months (UK). Besides swirl flaps and transmission fluid on the autos; what else should I be looking out for in terms of fix/renew as soon as I get it?
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May 11, 2013 23:01
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Viper_3000 posted:ECS has a more expansive (and expensive kit) than BAV, which includes the tensioner and pulley if you haven't done those. Wow is that really worth twice as much? I can just get a pulley from BavAuto with their $350 kit. Is there anything else I should take care of at the front of the engine while I'm in there? Car has 150k on it, and I don't think much has been replaced except the original water pump in that time.
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May 12, 2013 02:02
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Thanks for the advice on things to look out for. Owner also mentioned 2 issues (right side view mirror stopped adjusting and sunshade is off track or not opening or something) that he is going to get fixed prior to sale. I've replaced window regulators in a few other cars not worried about that. More concerned now with the rear light wiring issue and vanos system. Will have to see hat it looks like. He said that CarMax really lowballed him so I wonder if there is some minor body damage or paint issues.
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May 12, 2013 02:25
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My only problem with NOT proactively replacing the regulator as soon as it starts cracking really bad and rolling up slow is that both times mine flat out failed I was 200 and 400 miles from home with no spares waiting and I had to tape the windows up just to get home.
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May 12, 2013 04:43
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So, I went down to Austin to pick a little something up. 1997 540i/6, 164k, one owner before a year or two bopping around auctions. Lemme claybar the thing tomorrow before I do more pics. I just drove it 528 miles and my wife is yelling at me and telling me that i can't go out and drive around any more tonight. We have a couple of little scratches and dents - nothing that is not fixable, and nothing I honestly care about, one dead front roundel, an occasionally lumpy 450-500 idle - other times 650 and smooth (assuming idle air valve?), aaaaaand some dead cluster pixels. nothing not easily fixable. It is a hilariously smooth and powerful car and is by far the finest vehicle i've ever driven. This one is getting babied.  Eufala Reservoir, eastern Oklahoma, at sunset, shot by the happiest driver in the world tonight
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May 12, 2013 04:49
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GOD drat REAR SUSPENSION. My e30 has been on jackstands for more than a week now of off and on wrenching to do the rear diff bushing, diff fluid, 4 trailing arm bushings and the rear brakes. Pointers I've picked up: Don't build any of the dumb bushing pullers advocated in lots of DIYs. Seriously, save your money, buy the 30$ torch if you don't have one and burn them out. It might come in handy to push them in but fire works better than mechanical force at getting them out of their holes. Plus it looks loving awesome.  When reinstalling the diff, make sure you put the cover on after jacking it up since you had to lower it to pull the top bolts, right? If you don't, the pinion angle will reset and you won't be able to get it in the sheetmetal ears where the diff bushing goes in. But superducky, how do you get those bolts in seeing as I had to drop the diff since that cross member is in the way in order to get them out. Yeah, I know it blows. The top passenger bolt can be accessed with a u joint. The top driver? Yeah, you're only getting at that with a crescent wrench. Torque values? hahahaha. Getting a ratcheting for this one is really, really advisable. Like seriously you will want to actively want to seek out and proceed to murder a baby for this one. Getting it threaded is one of the most infuriating experiences of my life. And I've done several BMW maintenance "things." That's where I'm at, disregarding the fact that I had to get a cutoff wheel and maul my rear driver drum because the drum retaining bolt head sheared. Christ this has been one of the most infuriating few days of my life. This is a BMW Thread: Goddamn Everything.
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May 12, 2013 05:52
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The Third Man posted:Wow is that really worth twice as much? I can just get a pulley from BavAuto with their $350 kit. Is there anything else I should take care of at the front of the engine while I'm in there? Car has 150k on it, and I don't think much has been replaced except the original water pump in that time. It's just got the cost of the other parts rolled in. (And probably a bit of an upcharge since ECS isn't the cheapest place to buy parts from. If nothing else has been done I'd want to do the tensioners/pulleys/belts since I'd be in there already.
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May 12, 2013 07:29
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Can I just say how much I hate the stupid clips that hold the running light lenses in place on the E34's bumpers? I had to change a bulb on one today and even though I've been through this drill a few times, it still pisses me off. Basically you have to unbend the clip open with a small flathead to get the cover out and then guess how far you need to bend it back with a pair of pliers so that when you put it back in, it has just the right amount of tension to hold the cover in place and align exactly right where it needs to. It took me a long time to get it right the first time I did it and probably took me less than 10 minutes this time but fuuuu...
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May 12, 2013 10:07
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Hey is it just me or do the rear doors of e90s slam really hard? Ill use the same amount of strength to close my dads nissan altimas rear doors and my e90 rear doors, but the e90s doors close with a resounding slam and the window rattles. Should i be worried about this?
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May 12, 2013 21:39
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Jonny 290 posted:
Isn't the glory great? The power curve is about perfect. Jonny 290 posted:We have a couple of little scratches and dents - nothing that is not fixable, and nothing I honestly care about, one dead front roundel, an occasionally lumpy 450-500 idle - other times 650 and smooth (assuming idle air valve?), aaaaaand some dead cluster pixels. nothing not easily fixable. Your IAC is lovely. Clean it and report back. Dead front roundel? Missing? Enjoy the car, they are hilariously powerful. Be prepared to find yourself wanting to drag race.
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May 12, 2013 22:47
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I love finally having a car with enough power + LSD 
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May 12, 2013 22:54
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^^^That's your project M3? It went from mostly disassembled to autocrossing without much of a conclusion in your thread, mister.  Just finished up the FCABs on my 330...what a difference it's made! On the downside, it looks like my front end links are completely shot and based on the whistling sound I'm getting from the engine at certain throttle settings that my intake boots are not long for this world. Basically, BMWownership.txt; one job finished and two more found.
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May 12, 2013 23:13
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Any thoughts on whether SuperDucky's fire method would work well for getting e36 rtabs out? I should probably do mine, but I'm lazy and bad and fire would help.
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May 12, 2013 23:25
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MrChips posted:^^^That's your project M3? It went from mostly disassembled to autocrossing without much of a conclusion in your thread, mister. I concluded my thread! I did a few things after it was finished (02 sensors, brake pedal switch) but everything I set out to in the winter was done. I did order some kosei K1s, a 28mm front swaybar and stainless clutch/brake lines though. Also, I just noticed - in my driver's side door in that pic you can see a white M3 that blew his expansion tank up. televiper posted:Any thoughts on whether SuperDucky's fire method would work well for getting e36 rtabs out? I should probably do mine, but I'm lazy and bad and fire would help. Personally I wouldn't want to burn the RTABs out, too close to the sideskirts/body/etc. The holesaw/drill method + a BFH for the core and a screwdriver for the outer bit works really well. ~3 hours to do both sides. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 23:35 on May 12, 2013 |
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May 12, 2013 23:33
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televiper posted:Any thoughts on whether SuperDucky's fire method would work well for getting e36 rtabs out? I should probably do mine, but I'm lazy and bad and fire would help. While I've owned quite a few e36's that needed them done including my current M3, I've never actually done them on those cars. I have looked over some DIY's though and it looks like its harder to pull the whole arm out on the 36. If that's the case I think Crustashio is right, I wouldn't put the torch that close to the car because the point is to set the bushing on fire so that it will burn enough of the rubber away so the inner metal sleeve will pop out enough for you to grab it with pliers. This means a pretty large/long-running fire. That's a pretty intense fire to have close to the gas tank/plastic stuff/brake lines etc. Also, I discovered/realized today that my e30's rear swaybar is nonexistent. Not there at all. 
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May 13, 2013 03:10
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