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kimbo305 posted:Do you find them to be grayer in color that other tires? It's not something I would have noticed, but when I get home I'll compare them to the Contis on our outback. I can say that the sidewall is maybe grayer looking but it might just be what they do to the rubber finish. Both the alpins and the PSS have a very satiny finish that does look "soft" when clean. I actually think it looks best if I hit it with tire shine then wipe the shine stuff off before it completely dries. If you have an idea of what you would want to see for comparison pictures let me know and I can snap some tonight. It's something like 85 where I live today so it's going to be a night bike today and I'll have time on my hands after work before that.
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May 13, 2013 20:28
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If one were to maybe be buying a used accessport, what should one be looking for to make sure the thing is not married to a car? What accessories should be included? In addition, if I were to buy a cobb uppipe to replace the catted uppipe on my 04 wrx, is there an off the shelf map cobb supplies that will take care of the CEL and other related issues with a new uppipe?
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May 13, 2013 20:40
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Looks like myself and a buddy will be headed down to Laguna Seca June 1st-2nd for a Trackmasters Racing double track day. Anyone else showing up?
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May 13, 2013 20:53
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Mercury Ballistic posted:If one were to maybe be buying a used accessport, what should one be looking for to make sure the thing is not married to a car? What accessories should be included? Ask the owner to take a picture of the about page on the accessport saying its unmarried (actually I think it'll say "UNINSTALLED"). Depending on the type it should come with either an OBD-II all in one cable or a USB cable with OBD-II dongle. If its a SUB-001 it will have two connectors for initialization mode. My tuner had advised me that the stage 1 map will take care of an up pipe. Yakattak fucked around with this message at 21:17 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 21:15
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I always just stuck a resistor in the connector for the EGT (2.2k ohm). Cars without a catted up-pipe don't even have that sensor.
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May 13, 2013 21:30
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The complete Accessport kit also comes with the box, a CD with software (unnecessary, you can download the software on their website), a "Getting Started" manual (unnecessary, you can download the .pdf on their website), and Cobb stickers (bonus points if they still have these).
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May 13, 2013 22:44
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VelociBacon posted:Looks like myself and a buddy will be headed down to Laguna Seca June 1st-2nd for a Trackmasters Racing double track day. Anyone else showing up? Deals are always popping up for that track, but those crazy-low decibel meters placed everywhere make it such a pain.. 
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May 13, 2013 23:48
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McSpatula posted:Deals are always popping up for that track, but those crazy-low decibel meters placed everywhere make it such a pain.. 92db is definitely on the low side but any turbo car without an external wastegate/divorced downpipe should be fine I'd think.
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May 14, 2013 06:55
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:It's not something I would have noticed, but when I get home I'll compare them to the Contis on our outback. I can say that the sidewall is maybe grayer looking but it might just be what they do to the rubber finish. Both the alpins and the PSS have a very satiny finish that does look "soft" when clean. I know these are press pics with non-natural lighting, but the way they light up gray is pretty much how mine are: http://cdn4.leftlanenews.com/photos/content/january2013/thumbnailsnew/cd-detroit-chevy-c7-05_653.jpg http://cdn4.leftlanenews.com/photos/content/january2013/thumbnailsnew/cd-detroit-chevy-c7-07_1035.jpg
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May 14, 2013 07:04
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Fixed; Cruise control Fuel Gauge Interior Lights / Clock Stereo On the SVX bucket of crap. All related to someone going full retard when doing some wiring. Part of the problem was that they had wired the stereo into the 10A interior light/clock circuit, melted that wire, blown the fuse in the engine bay, and through a fuse on the wire that they had cleverly hidden behind the dash. They even through me off their game by putting ANOTHER fuse on the same line  Now its all fixed I want to keep it.... Front ball joints, knock sensors, a service and a pair of tyres to go.
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May 14, 2013 10:07
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Well, I dropped my 06 WRX off at a shop I trust yesterday to take a look at some stuff, and they're doing some minor repairs for me. I also wanted them to take a look at my power steering pump since I know it was slowly leaking fluid. but could never figure out where. It was a really slow leak, but it didn't seem to be a hose or anything obvious, and I've already replaced the top o-ring to fix the air getting in issue that is widely posted about on Subaru forums. I've had trouble finding other people online who actually needed the pump replaced, it seems like a pretty sturdy part, and usually an o-ring or new hoses/brackets (I've replaced brackets, just not hoses also) fix any air leaks or fluid leaks. He just called me to let me know his tech said it was the pump itself leaking and I have two options to replace it: at Atsco brand pump which he doesnt recommend because he's had a lot of leaks and issues with it ($344 for that and labor) and he called Subaru who sell a pump kit that's quite a bit more expensive (about $700 for that and labor). I guess the subi part is a different setup than the old pump so its not as prone to leakage, but $700 is a lot of money. Any recommendations or other experiences with getting PS pumps replaced? He said they can replace the hoses and brackets as well but he doesn't want to do that and have it start leaking again if it's actually the pump. I let him know about the o-ring and brackets I replaced so he's going to go check them out and give me a call back (his tech had diagnosed) so we'll see what he says. Unfortunately it's not a Subaru/import shop (if anyone knows a good one around Tempe, AZ please let me know, all I've found is a good tuner that replaced my clutch per Jamal's rec.) but I trust this guy, he's always been really straightforward with pricing and options on previous cars, and the shop itself is really solid.
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May 14, 2013 17:17
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Iron Lung posted:Well, I dropped my 06 WRX off at a shop I trust yesterday to take a look at some stuff, and they're doing some minor repairs for me. I also wanted them to take a look at my power steering pump since I know it was slowly leaking fluid. but could never figure out where. It was a really slow leak, but it didn't seem to be a hose or anything obvious, and I've already replaced the top o-ring to fix the air getting in issue that is widely posted about on Subaru forums. I've had trouble finding other people online who actually needed the pump replaced, it seems like a pretty sturdy part, and usually an o-ring or new hoses/brackets (I've replaced brackets, just not hoses also) fix any air leaks or fluid leaks. All of those prices are highly inflated. $420 from subarupartsforyou.com http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=5091 Or you could go to rock auto and pick a $130 one... I'd likely get a $130 one. http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=215396&p=rock
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May 14, 2013 17:23
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Amandyke posted:All of those prices are highly inflated. Thanks for the links! Looks like Subaru is only marking up the price of their pump by $100 through them locally, and with shipping it's only like a $50 difference so I might just do it that way to get it done ASAP. I'd rather have the official part than the Cardone one as well. Is an actual leaking pump usually the issue, or is it generally an issue of hoses, brackets, and o-rings?
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May 14, 2013 17:30
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You don't sound much like a DIYer but I found this and it sounds pretty easy and cheap to rebuild them. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2127419
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May 14, 2013 18:03
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Larrymer posted:You don't sound much like a DIYer but I found this and it sounds pretty easy and cheap to rebuild them. I've pulled it out and replaced an o-ring in it before because air was leaking into the system, I took it in partially to see if someone else could help diagnose it so I could be 100% sure of where it was leaking. The only reason I'm hesitant to do the work myself is that the leak started again a few months after replacing the o-ring and I'm not super mechanically inclined (or have the tools to make things easier). Guess that's what friends are for! This write up and the photos of the leak are actually exactly what is going on with mine, it was just always hard to see where it was leaking from. Thanks for the link, I think I'll tell the shop to just work on the A/C and other minor stuff, and I'll pull out the pump myself this weekend. Luckily I'll have access to another car in a few weeks, and the pump issue isn't very urgent. Always excited to do work in 100+ degree weather!
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May 14, 2013 18:18
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Iron Lung posted:Any recommendations or other experiences with getting PS pumps replaced? He said they can replace the hoses and brackets as well but he doesn't want to do that and have it start leaking again if it's actually the pump. I let him know about the o-ring and brackets I replaced so he's going to go check them out and give me a call back (his tech had diagnosed) so we'll see what he says. Unfortunately it's not a Subaru/import shop (if anyone knows a good one around Tempe, AZ please let me know, all I've found is a good tuner that replaced my clutch per Jamal's rec.) but I trust this guy, he's always been really straightforward with pricing and options on previous cars, and the shop itself is really solid. My legacy one seized so I threw a napa reman on for like 100 bucks and didn't even change out the fluid or any of that poo poo. Still trucking along fine.
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May 14, 2013 19:30
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Anybody know the part # for these retaining clips for the 4 pot WRX fronts? The kit I got didn't come with any. The closest I can find on Opposed Forces is #26232FA010, but that seems like it's on the pads, not for the pins.
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May 14, 2013 20:58
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I don't recall ever seeing those on the brakes. No big deal if you don't have them. You can even leave the big metal spring clip things off the top although that will result in more noise. As far as the p/s pump goes, unless a ton of air gets in over a long period of time to the point where cavitation (that air in the pump growling noise) damages the pump internals you do not need to replace it. If it is not making noise and the steering doesn't shudder I wouldn't worry about it too much. Certainly not enough to spend $700. I would try to pinpoint the leak and maybe get a seal/rebuild kit for it. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 21:18
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So I have had the pleasure of owning a 04 wrx wagon and a 09 wrx wagon/hatch since last summer. The wife usually drives the 04, and I the 09, but we switched so she can have the better a/c for the next few months. Is it me, or does the 04 wrx handle much better than the newer models/09? It feels much more responsive, for lack of a better word. The older wrx also feels more solid and the interior feels of better quality materials. Is this me? The two cars both have all season tires of similar specs. I just seem to get out of the 04 with a grin more than the 09. Can anyone comment on this? Is it all in my head? My wife gets the same feeling fwiw, but neither of us track or auto x or anything like that.
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May 14, 2013 21:40
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The rear suspension was revised on the 3rd gen and I'm sure the bushings were probably more compliant.
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May 14, 2013 21:46
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The GE/GH/GR had a lot of stuff taken out of it. Flimsy bumpers, poor quality interior materials, fat people seats, crappy Legacy rear suspension, swiss cheese pistons, open diff in the WRX, the list goes on. About the only thing they did right was add more power in '09 and not raise the weight too much.
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May 14, 2013 21:59
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The GE/GH/GR had a lot of stuff taken out of it. Flimsy bumpers, poor quality interior materials, fat people seats, crappy Legacy rear suspension, swiss cheese pistons, open diff in the WRX, the list goes on. About the only thing they did right was add more power in '09 and not raise the weight too much. Seems to gibe with my experience. The car is still fun, mostly due to what you said, it is pretty drat fast on on-ramps and the like.
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May 14, 2013 22:34
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jamal posted:I don't recall ever seeing those on the brakes. No big deal if you don't have them. You can even leave the big metal spring clip things off the top although that will result in more noise. Que? Those should be on all WRX four pots. And I would disagree about leaving them off - especially after finding a brake pad going wandering when a retaining pin walked. They arent there to look pretty.
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May 14, 2013 22:45
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In the 3rd gen you are definitely more disconnected from the car. The rear suspension is different from that of the 00-09 Legacy though, and it would be more accurate to say that the new 10+ Legacy uses Impreza suspension. From a geometry standpoint it is actually better in some ways than what's in the older cars. More grip, better camber curve. Downside is it toes in a little more (results in understeer) and has less travel. There are some pretty easy and simple changes you can make on the new car to change the handling feel. Inserts for the rear subframe mounts, an ALK, and a little more rear swaybar will really sharpen things up. When I get into a stockish GD I think "gee, this car is mush" compared to my own car.
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May 14, 2013 22:50
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Cat Terrist posted:Que? Those should be on all WRX four pots. And I would disagree about leaving them off - especially after finding a brake pad going wandering when a retaining pin walked. They arent there to look pretty. Yeah, they are there to keep the pins from rattling out, it looks like. I would personally just feel better getting a set, since they are probably just like a $5 part... I just don't know what the hell they're called.
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May 14, 2013 22:55
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My GR with bushings, mounts and ALK handles far better than my GD did with similar upgrades.
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May 14, 2013 23:03
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Looked at my diagram, those little things you have circled are part of the OEM pad and shim kit. 26232FA010 is the number I come up with too. I did not realize that was what kept the pins in place- thought there were little individual clips like on the sti. The other option would be to get cotter pins from a hardware store like the brembo caliper uses. The specific term for them is a re-usable cotter pin or hitch pin clip or hairpin. jamal fucked around with this message at 23:26 on May 14, 2013 |
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May 14, 2013 23:11
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jamal posted:Looked at my diagram, those little things you have circled are part of the OEM pad and shim kit. 26232FA010 is the number I come up with too. I did not realize that was what kept the pins in place- thought there were little individual clips like on the sti. That makes sense. I was just kinda curious why they didn't include them with the brand new kit I ordered (from SGP, no less  .)
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May 14, 2013 23:46
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I'm looking at buying a 94 WRX as the first car thats belonged to me, basically because public transport isn't cutting it and for uni I'm split across 2 campuses about an hour apart assuming traffic is good. I don't really know much about cars, but since I was like 10 I've always really liked and wanted a WRX. This is the one I am looking at right now, but its cheap (by Australian prices) and it will probably be gone in a month and a bit when I actually go to buy it but its a good example I guess. That car in question sounds a bit too good to be true so I'll definitely get a mechanic or someone that knows their poo poo to look at it, especially if its still there in a month and a bit but that costs money I'd rather not spend if I can pick up on problems myself. I'm not 25 yet so I can't drive it (or anything petrol with a turbo, I can drive a diesel with one though) in my state without an exemption specifically for that car, even if I had one for another identical WRX, but I can get one easily after I buy it so I'll be bringing probably my dad along, but I don't think hes knows too much either. I know American Subarus had issues but is there anything dad/I should watch out for in particular that might save us a trip to the mechanic if we notice it? I'm definitely going to be suspicious of that car I linked if its still up because it's probably 2 grand cheaper than what I should be paying. I sent a message to them and apparently it has a roadworthy certificate, has been regularly serviced and driven every few weeks which should mean its OK so long as they have kept the receipts right? I don't know if America does the roadworthy certificate thing but you need one before you put the car up for sale and its valid for 2 months/2000km. You still get it checked though because it's not hard to pay a shady mechanic to fake it. I know about things like checking the oil for white gunk and making sure it's not ultra thick, and other stuff like making sure it goes into gear easily but what else should I be careful of? E: That exemption is for cars with a turbo that are under 210kw and 125kw/t. That WRX is 155/124 so I'll almost definitely be able to drive it because I've got nothing on my record, not even a speeding fine. After I buy the car its just waiting for it to come through, my friend got one for his forester after about a week and a half.
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May 15, 2013 05:21
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I'm looking at buying a 94 WRX as the first car thats belonged to me, basically because public transport isn't cutting it and for uni I'm split across 2 campuses about an hour apart assuming traffic is good. I don't really know much about cars, but since I was like 10 I've always really liked and wanted a WRX. This is the one I am looking at right now, but its cheap (by Australian prices) and it will probably be gone in a month and a bit when I actually go to buy it but its a good example I guess. That car in question sounds a bit too good to be true so I'll definitely get a mechanic or someone that knows their poo poo to look at it, especially if its still there in a month and a bit but that costs money I'd rather not spend if I can pick up on problems myself. I'm not 25 yet so I can't drive it (or anything petrol with a turbo, I can drive a diesel with one though) in my state without an exemption specifically for that car, even if I had one for another identical WRX, but I can get one easily after I buy it so I'll be bringing probably my dad along, but I don't think hes knows too much either. Speaking as a Canadian, I'm 99% sure all that crazy roadworthy/not able to drive turbos/etc stuff is Aussie-only. As for what to look for - I would be worried about any turbo car getting on around 200k kms. My first car was what you guys call a 180sx, although it was non-turbo, but that was fantastic. If you can find one around where you live (180sx/silvia, not sure if they ever came with the N/A 2.4L KA24E motors there) it's a fantastic car to drive, easy to service, runs forever, and has the kind of feel and weight distribution to enable you to learn how to get a car to do what you want.
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May 15, 2013 05:35
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VelociBacon posted:Speaking as a Canadian, I'm 99% sure all that crazy roadworthy/not able to drive turbos/etc stuff is Aussie-only. I don't mind those, but I'm only really willing to spend that much on a WRX at this point, if I did I'd be flat broke for so long. I'd have enough money to get by but I wouldn't be going out or buying many non essentials for a while. Really if I can't get the WRX I'm probably going to get something like this but with less kms. Actually now that you say that though I remember when Dad bought his turbo diesel ute he told me you should probably replace them every 200k kms, I forgot about that.
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May 15, 2013 06:25
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VelociBacon posted:Speaking as a Canadian, I'm 99% sure all that crazy roadworthy/not able to drive turbos/etc stuff is Aussie-only. An NA 180SX isnt a good option here, what with a whole slew of much better availible Okay, now for a QLD car you would be looking first for rust and flood damage but eh, likely to be fine for both. The mechanicals as long as they have been kept stock will have plently left in them, a good test drive will reveal any bearing problems, you are looking fo rany whines or unusual noises from the gearbox. The early WRX's ARE weaker in the gearbox and I wouldnt be surprised if it's been rebuilt. A timing belt being done is a good sign maintenance has been done but you need to make sure it's been continuously maintained. Leaks should be checked. Gearbox oil should look and smell good. I would suggest the suspesnion would be soupy by now, brakes etc checked and put a magnet on the exterior panels to check for repairs. But the reality is, I'm suggesting the things you should look for on any car, 200K on a WRX really isnt a problem. One of the guys I knows has 350K and he's raced his, yes original engine. So basically it's worth looking at and I personally wouldnt be concerned as long as it's straight, maintained and not modified beyond what is listed. Edit : OMG you asked the D&D AusPol thread this question??!?! Hooooly poo poo they have no idea how to spot someone trolling the crap out of them, let alone answer coherently on a WRX! Sorry, that amused me no end, pay me no mind 
CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 07:29 on May 15, 2013 |
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May 15, 2013 07:14
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Question about AccessPort and ECU-checks/upgrades at the dealership: If there's an ECU TSB to upgrade the software or whatever, and I'm flashed with Stage 1, when they flash the upgrade at the dealership, will I need to re-flash my tune? Will they know that I'm running a stage 1 and mark my account, or some crap?
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May 15, 2013 15:41
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Only the Subaru community could conclude that demonstrably faster newer versions of cars are inferior. 
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May 15, 2013 17:01
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BoyBlunder posted:Question about AccessPort and ECU-checks/upgrades at the dealership: I thought I read something on iwsti.com about the dealer not being able to reflash you if you went in with an AP tune installed. Best bet is probably to go back to stock or just don't do the dealer reflash since you're just going to flash "over it" anyway. In any case, iwsti had a bunch of threads about it so maybe check those out.
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May 15, 2013 17:05
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Only the Subaru community could conclude that demonstrably faster newer versions of cars are inferior. Don't get me wrong, the GE/GH/GR is a lot quicker of a car than the GD/GG, but there's definite problems with the new cars that aren't acceptable based on Subaru's reputation (especially in the North American market) for dogged durability and general ruggedness. I've seen a lot of new engines going into street driven GRs on stock tunes, and I've picked up a lot of pieces of bumper covers and fender liners from GH/GRs that couldn't take hitting a traffic cone during an autocross.
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May 15, 2013 17:40
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I definitely will not argue the tune shortcuts suck and the bumper covers are truly pathetic (mine cracked at autocross after hitting a cone. Actually, it was a wall of cones  ). I guess I just get tired of the third gen bashing that often seems like thinly veiled jealousy or delusional rationalization to buy a cheaper car. Not that you (seat) seem that way, I don't get that at all from you so I hope you don't think I'm talking about you  .
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 18:09 on May 15, 2013 |
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May 15, 2013 18:05
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The only Subaru I'm jealous of is Bajaha's car
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May 15, 2013 18:26
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My 2013 WRX has less than 3k mi, and has had a hard time "turning over". Often times on a cold morning, it'll crank for 2+ sec. I hate it, and it scares the gently caress out of me. I called service, and they said that Subaru recently released a TSB saying that this was normal, and in some circumstances (the dead of winter), it could take 6+ sec to start. I asked the dude if he was serious, and he said 100%. Is this real or was he blowing smoke up my rear end?
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May 15, 2013 18:37
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I think most people's WRXs are that way. The only thing that I think helps is to turn the key to on, wait for stuff to prime, then turn to ignition. This doesn't address the root issue of not starting the very moment you are ready though.
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May 15, 2013 19:04
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