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Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
Just go out and start messing around. Start leaning the bike over more in an empty parking lot or something to get a feel for how much grip the bike has (it's a ton). Practice letting the bike lay flat while you hang a leg out to make some tight turns.

I'd also say mess around and do some wheelies to get a feel for how to get the front wheel in the air / get used to the power. Really it's just about figuring out what the bike is gonna do when you make some input. I don't think it'd be bad to go on a group ride. You definitely won't be the only guy that is new I bet and even if you are no one is going to care. You can learn a lot by being around someone more experienced.

There're really no rules or anything to being dumb on a bike. Just go have fun on it.

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Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Start small, take it off some curbs, some driveway-to-curb embankments, maybe some shallow stairs.

You gotta crawl before you can walk before you can run.

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
Also, don't forget to wheelie off. If you just go shooting off a loading dock you're gonna go nose-down immediately and rack your nuts. Get to the edge of whatever and then crack the throttle. Practice that on a curb for sure before you move up.

My favorite thing in town to do is go to this steep railroad crossing where the road slopes down on either side of the tracks. One side is like a little launch ramp over them. Super fun to play around when the area is deserted. I like dropping off loading docks less so because it's pretty harsh to just drop straight down from a couple feet up.

Minty Swagger
Sep 8, 2005

Ribbit Ribbit Real Good

JP Money posted:

You can just take a look down in there but if you don't know what they looked like initially it may just confuse you. Taking the caliper off requires removal of only 2 12mm bolts (maybe they're 14 I don't remember) and the caliper will slide right out giving you a good look at the pads. Do that.

No idea what I'm looking at honestly in terms of wear. I'm assuming those slots are the wear indicators? I guess I'm good? Why would it squeak like an old schoolbus then? :(

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Those slots are the wear indicators. To be fair, I have never heard DRZ brakes squeal ever, so I'm pretty sure something weird is going on there.

Have the backing plates fallen off or otherwise poo poo the bed on the pads? There should be some spring steel back there (I think, didnt pay super close attention when I changed mine last). Also check the buttons on the rotor and make sure the rotor doesnt have excess play button-wise.

I've also seen rotors wear weird and cause squeaking. My old roomates R6 had the squeakiest brakes on earth and it came down to a rotor replacement to fix them.

E: also, have you ever gotten any sort of anything on your rotor/pads? Chemicals, including brake cleaner can make them squeak.

Minty Swagger
Sep 8, 2005

Ribbit Ribbit Real Good
No play, the brakes perform great. I'll admit I'm being a little dramatic with the squeal, its not insane but its also not quiet either. I dont hear it with earplugs in buit its still annoying. :(

In terms of chemicals, some car wash solution may have briefly (less than 10 seconds) splashed onto them while I scrubbed down the car & bike but nothing for a long period of time. Maybe that's it?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Does the squeaking change if the brakes are hot? Have you taken the bike out and braked hard from like 70mph a couple times? Usually that heats things up enough to boil off most stuff. If all else fails, you can use that brake squeal compound that goes between the pistons and pads, but thats a bandaid, not a solution.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard

BotchedLobotomy posted:

No play, the brakes perform great. I'll admit I'm being a little dramatic with the squeal, its not insane but its also not quiet either. I dont hear it with earplugs in buit its still annoying. :(

In terms of chemicals, some car wash solution may have briefly (less than 10 seconds) splashed onto them while I scrubbed down the car & bike but nothing for a long period of time. Maybe that's it?

Some brakes just squeak. If it bothers you that much, try new pads - they aren't really expensive. When I noticed my rear brake squeaking, I checked it for pad material and made sure it works... in my case they're fine and work, so I consider it to be one of the (many) noises the bike makes.

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
DRZ's make a bunch of noise no matter what. I find it helps to wear earbuds so I don't get lured in to thinking that something is going to blow up even though it's just the sound a big single.

Those pads look like they have a chip taken out of the top left quadrant. That's a good enough excuse to buy some EBC's and drop some cash :haw:

Minty Swagger
Sep 8, 2005

Ribbit Ribbit Real Good
Alright, maybe I will. I guess I'll just concede with the fact that I didnt gently caress something up and roll with it. :)

ChewedFood
Jul 22, 2012
Is it okay to ride with nothing in the end of the bar? I took the hand guards off and the piece on the end fell out.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
You'll probably feel more vibes through that bar, but yeah it won't kill you or anything.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
The rear brakes squealed really bad on my DRZ when I first got it, but I'm pretty sure the pads were just contaminated with chain lube because they didn't work worth poo poo either.

Skumby
Jul 5, 2007
I'm Skumby dammit!!!!!!!

MetaJew posted:

Something really lovely happened to me today, and I'd like some input to see if there's anything to be worried about.

I took my 625 SMC out for a ride after not riding it for several weeks. On my way back home I was stuck at a stop light for three cycles which probably took about 10 minutes. In that time I could feel my bike getting very hot, but KTM in it's great wisdom never included a water temp gauge so I wasn't sure exactly how hot it was running. Maybe a quarter mile from my place I turned off the petcock so that there wouldn't be any fuel in the carb by the time I got home.

:siren: Shortly after the bike died I heard a splash and then saw that the coolant line that runs from the water pump down to the engine block had somehow popped off, and all of my coolant was dumped onto the ground. :siren:

I'm not sure if, since it's a thumper, the worm gear clamp had just loosened up some and the hose was able to pop off, or if my radiator cap had failed or was improperly seated, or some unknown other issue exists. The PO did install a radiator catch can/overflow and but I didn't notice much if any coolant in it, and it didn't look like it had spilled out.

My plan at this time is to call up my local KTM dealer and see if they have a tester to pressure test my rad cap. I replaced it with a new cap from the dealer when I got the bike last fall. I flushed the old coolant out at the same time. And, I'll go down and pick up some fresh coolant to put in it. I might also replace the particular coolant line.

Is this a thing that happens, or just bad luck? I'm very fortunate that this happened once I was home and not while I was riding or sitting at a light. Is there anything else I should check? The coolant looked clean, and the sightglass for the oil doesn't appear to be milky as if any coolant has mixed with oil.

I've pasted in a pick of the water pump side with the coolant line that popped off circled:



Didn't the gay bell hanging off your skidplate alert you? Maybe it only works on harlies.

Is the foil to keep the aliens from reading your A/F ratio?

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

goku chewbacca
Dec 14, 2002

ChewedFood posted:

Is it okay to ride with nothing in the end of the bar? I took the hand guards off and the piece on the end fell out.

clutchpuck posted:

You'll probably feel more vibes through that bar, but yeah it won't kill you or anything.
Unless you get in an accident, in which case your bar will core you like an apple. Order some cheap bar end weights.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006

Cross-posting this from the "tell me what to buy" thread, hope you don't mind. I was originally looking for sumos of these two bikes but a clean one's hard to find and I think I'll be doing just as much offroad as street with it as I live in an area where you can find a bunch of straight up wooded rural areas smushed in between small towns and cities.

Anyway, I have narrowed my search for a dual sport to these two candidates.


http://www.cyclemax.net/2008SuzukiDR-Z400SK-inventory.htm?id=370866&used=1&vin=JS1SK43A482100756#img2

or


I'm planning to use it for guerrilla offroad jaunts in SE PA, practicing wheelies and stoppies, and light commuting, in that order. Thoughts? Preferences one over the other? They're both very clean. Someday I'd like to play around with supermotoing whichever I get. Which would be easier to convert?

Skumby
Jul 5, 2007
I'm Skumby dammit!!!!!!!

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

Cross-posting this from the "tell me what to buy" thread, hope you don't mind. I was originally looking for sumos of these two bikes but a clean one's hard to find and I think I'll be doing just as much offroad as street with it as I live in an area where you can find a bunch of straight up wooded rural areas smushed in between small towns and cities.

Anyway, I have narrowed my search for a dual sport to these two candidates.


http://www.cyclemax.net/2008SuzukiDR-Z400SK-inventory.htm?id=370866&used=1&vin=JS1SK43A482100756#img2

or


I'm planning to use it for guerrilla offroad jaunts in SE PA, practicing wheelies and stoppies, and light commuting, in that order. Thoughts? Preferences one over the other? They're both very clean. Someday I'd like to play around with supermotoing whichever I get. Which would be easier to convert?

#2 unless commuting on 81 83 or 30. Where in se pa are you?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Hard to pass up that WR with only 600-some miles on it.

How far do you plan to mod the bikes? You'll have to do some mods to the WR to get to stock DRZ power. The DRZ can get quite a bit stronger than it is stock, and can make more power than the WR can.

If that stuff doesnt matter, get the WR.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug
Since we have the DR-Z mastery crew in here I have to ask: I've been out of bikes for the better part of 2 years now as I'm living in a town notorious for never fixing roads (we still have massive gaping potholes in the middle of loving May as the city is still sitting on their asses and not putting a penny into repair). Riding a sport-tourer was painful and just generally not fun, so I sold my VFR and didn't think about motorcycles for a while. Now that we're back into summer, of course my stupid rear end wants another bike.

I found this in the local CL: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/3721335253.html

Is $4,500 USD about right for a 6 year old bike that costs $7k brand new? Granted it has really, really low miles (<2500) but it "feels" a bit high. Is this about what one should expect for used supermotos?

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Skumby posted:

Didn't the gay bell hanging off your skidplate alert you? Maybe it only works on harlies.

Is the foil to keep the aliens from reading your A/F ratio?

Thanks for the poo poo post. That pic is from the craigslist ad when I bought it.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Ripoff posted:

Since we have the DR-Z mastery crew in here I have to ask: I've been out of bikes for the better part of 2 years now as I'm living in a town notorious for never fixing roads (we still have massive gaping potholes in the middle of loving May as the city is still sitting on their asses and not putting a penny into repair). Riding a sport-tourer was painful and just generally not fun, so I sold my VFR and didn't think about motorcycles for a while. Now that we're back into summer, of course my stupid rear end wants another bike.

I found this in the local CL: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/mcy/3721335253.html

Is $4,500 USD about right for a 6 year old bike that costs $7k brand new? Granted it has really, really low miles (<2500) but it "feels" a bit high. Is this about what one should expect for used supermotos?

I paid $4k for an 06 with 4000 miles and all stock everything. Low miles, plus one of the best pipes you can get is not a terrible deal for 4500, in my opinion.

Sumos in general hold their value really well, if that were a drz-s it would be a $3000 bike all day long.

Either way try to talk them down

Skumby
Jul 5, 2007
I'm Skumby dammit!!!!!!!

MetaJew posted:

Thanks for the poo poo post. That pic is from the craigslist ad when I bought it.

MetaJew posted:

On weekends, I pretend that I'm the blue Power Ranger




Is this from the ad too douchebag?

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006

Skumby posted:

#2 unless commuting on 81 83 or 30. Where in se pa are you?

I'm in West Chester but work in wonderful Coatesville. I usually blast down 20 because I'm late late late but Strasburg Rd. is a wonderful way to decompress on the way back.

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Hard to pass up that WR with only 600-some miles on it.

How far do you plan to mod the bikes? You'll have to do some mods to the WR to get to stock DRZ power. The DRZ can get quite a bit stronger than it is stock, and can make more power than the WR can.

If that stuff doesnt matter, get the WR.

Is the power of the DRZ that much more than the WR? On the ADV forums and whatnot the arguments gets heated with everyone defending their own bike. I do like the DRZs tires and non-stock exhaust, but the WR obviously has the better suspension. Is it that hard or expensive to mod the suspension on the DRZ? I've heard it described as "floaty". I'd also do the 3x mod if it hasn't been done already. I really don't know what could be done to make the WR more powerful.

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
If you find an SM instead it'l have much better suspension. IMO it's worth it to find an SM first and then put dirt wheels on it. It's way more expensive to go the other way around as it'll cost you well over the price difference in order to get 17 inch wheels and USD forks / a better shock. Count on 800-900 for wheels and maybe 3-400 for a decent set of SM forks. More for a shock.

I'd say get the DRZ. It's not worth wringing the neck of a bike in the woods if you don't have to do it. The DRZ is also cheaper to mod imo. Plenty of used poo poo to either add power or fix what you break.

ought ten
Feb 6, 2004


If you get the DRZ I'll trade you yellow plastics for those sweet ones.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Skumby posted:

Is this from the ad too douchebag?

You are really harshing the vibe in here man...

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Skumby posted:

Is this from the ad too douchebag?

Touche, I haven't taken it off. Still a poo poo post.

Skumby
Jul 5, 2007
I'm Skumby dammit!!!!!!!
Sorry, my bad.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Covert Ops Wizard posted:

I'm in West Chester but work in wonderful Coatesville. I usually blast down 20 because I'm late late late but Strasburg Rd. is a wonderful way to decompress on the way back.


Is the power of the DRZ that much more than the WR? On the ADV forums and whatnot the arguments gets heated with everyone defending their own bike. I do like the DRZs tires and non-stock exhaust, but the WR obviously has the better suspension. Is it that hard or expensive to mod the suspension on the DRZ? I've heard it described as "floaty". I'd also do the 3x mod if it hasn't been done already. I really don't know what could be done to make the WR more powerful.

Right out of the box, i think theyre pretty close. Once you start modding the DRZ, the gap widens pretty quickly.

If we're strictly comparing DRZ-S to WR, then the WR has the better suspension for sure. If you go to the DRZ-SM, they're probably pretty even, with a nod to the DRZ. People forget that the DRZ-SM was THE first street bike to have high and low speed damping in the rear. It was pretty advanced for 2005, and 2005 isnt that long ago in streetbike suspension terms.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Any FCR gurus in here? I posted this over on Thumpertalk:

quote:

Since I live in Wisconsin, and we're in that wonderful time of year where the weather can swing 50 degrees in a matter of one day, I've had the chance to see how my FCR performs at different temperatures, and it turns out it needs some adjustment. I think I've got it figured out, but I want to give my theory a sanity check.

I'll describe whats happening based on the temperature, since it was 40 to 50 degrees yesterday, and its 60 to 70 degrees today. I should also mention that I bought this FCR from Epic, and put it on my bike without opening it up to see how it was jetted, so I have no idea whats in there for jets.

Temperature: 40-50 deg F
  • Quarter throttle stutter when moving, clears up when the throttle is opened or closed.
  • Popping on decel
  • Hitting the throttle from a walking speed (5-10 mph) results in a wheelie (as it should)
  • Bike revs cleanly with clutch pulled in
  • 50-100% throttle opening seems to run fine

Temperature: 60-70 deg F
  • Quarter throttle stutter is gone
  • Popping on decel is all but gone (one pop every couple seconds)
  • Hitting the throttle from a walking speed results in bucking and stuttering for a half second or so, then the bike pulls away, but not all that strong, no wheelie, or very small one
  • Bike does not rev cleanly with clutch pulled in, sputters
  • 50-100% throttle seems fine still, at least from my butt dyno

So, based on that, I'm going to guess that the bike is mostly jetted right for 60-70 degrees, and the AP is providing too much fuel, leading to flooding when the throttle is opened in warmer temps?

Does this seem like the case to anyone else? Is there any way to adjust the AP to provide less fuel without tearing it apart and replacing the leak jet?

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 18:43 on May 14, 2013

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
Check in on the O-ring mod, check the jetting while you're in the carb.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




O-ring mod looks good, I did see that when I installed it

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006

Way to go dicks, I buy my DRZ today and already got a ticket for riding like a hoon.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

Way to go dicks, I buy my DRZ today and already got a ticket for riding like a hoon.

I can afford to pay for a supermoto full cash, but if I get a ticket poo poo gets bad pretty quick. Solution: disband the police.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006

Ripoff posted:

I can afford to pay for a supermoto full cash, but if I get a ticket poo poo gets bad pretty quick. Solution: disband the police.

Right? To be fair, the cop was really nice about it. Though I got the feeling he suspected the bike was stolen. Whatever. Still the nicest cop I've dealt with in that capacity.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Covert Ops Wizard posted:

Way to go dicks, I buy my DRZ today and already got a ticket for riding like a hoon.

Supermoto.txt

velocross
Sep 16, 2007

Disco Disco Disco Disco Disco Disco Disco Disco Disco
Jim, have you tried adjusting the pilot screw adjustment any? I'd mess with that before I start ripping open an fcr. So eddie doesn't give you the jetting settings when he sends you the carb?


Figured I'd throw it out there, but add me on the list of looking for a supermoto. I'm in the DFW area but definitely willing to travel.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Welp, I decided not to take the job in W-B, so I will be able to continue Sumo-ing! (Once I heal from my shoulder surgery). Happy happy joy joy indeed!

On a side note I am not sure how I didn't get pulled over the other day when I was riding home from work through town. It was the first day with the exhaust uncorked and holy hell was I making a hoonriffic racket.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

I'm looking at a new bike in the next few months as I am rapidly outgrowing my starter. I'm thinking it's definitely going to be a sumo :kimchi:.
I have a terrible obsession with 690 SMCs, and have been working six-day weeks in a fervent cash grab while I browse Craigslist.

I know I should probably get a DRZ but I'm interested in the input of some larger guys - I'm 6'3", 210lbs. I mostly use my bike for my short commute and running around town on errands, but on weekends I like to try to head up to the mountains for some curves. These mountains have a fairly rapid elevation gain, and that's where my current bike (Sportster 883) is really beginning to lack - I'm scraping exhaust going downhill, but accelerating uphill sucks with my big rear end onboard.

The reduced price and maintenance reqs on the DRZ appeal to me, but I'm looking for a significant boost in speed and I figured the 690 was my best bet. I'm in LA, so maintaining non-traffic highway speeds is a concern too. I realize comparing sumos to Sportsters is a bit silly, but I figured y'all would have some good input.

Bonus: my workplace is starting a lengthy expansion project that involves new parking lots/roads/construction/opportunities for sumo silliness. I am looking forward to being the first person here to be fired for hooning.

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Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006

The Royal Nonesuch posted:

I'm looking at a new bike in the next few months as I am rapidly outgrowing my starter. I'm thinking it's definitely going to be a sumo :kimchi:.
I have a terrible obsession with 690 SMCs, and have been working six-day weeks in a fervent cash grab while I browse Craigslist.

I know I should probably get a DRZ but I'm interested in the input of some larger guys - I'm 6'3", 210lbs. I mostly use my bike for my short commute and running around town on errands, but on weekends I like to try to head up to the mountains for some curves. These mountains have a fairly rapid elevation gain, and that's where my current bike (Sportster 883) is really beginning to lack - I'm scraping exhaust going downhill, but accelerating uphill sucks with my big rear end onboard.

The reduced price and maintenance reqs on the DRZ appeal to me, but I'm looking for a significant boost in speed and I figured the 690 was my best bet. I'm in LA, so maintaining non-traffic highway speeds is a concern too. I realize comparing sumos to Sportsters is a bit silly, but I figured y'all would have some good input.

Bonus: my workplace is starting a lengthy expansion project that involves new parking lots/roads/construction/opportunities for sumo silliness. I am looking forward to being the first person here to be fired for hooning.

My 2 cents is while the DRZ is great for bigger guys, the power is lacking (compared to my 675) and the weight is really high up on the bike. However, I just bought it yesterday and dropped it at low speed today and there were no tears. I just picked it right up, waited half an hour (something had flooded I guess) and it was as if it never happened. It's gonna be the bike I learn to hoon on without worrying about breaking it too much.

The 690 is a sexy, sexy bike and might be my next one if I have as much fun on my DRZ as I think I'm gonna have.

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