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Somebody decided textured spackle spraypaint was a good idea.
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# ? May 15, 2013 22:14 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 13:58 |
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I remember when that was the hot poo poo for painting your ICE install like all the cool Max Power-reading kids
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# ? May 15, 2013 22:31 |
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InitialDave posted:There is, but it applies to parking the roadside, not in a marked parking bay. Some places use that for massive ticket profit. St. Catharines in Ontario is notorious for wrong way parking infractions.
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# ? May 15, 2013 22:47 |
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Sudden Infant Def Syndrome posted:Some places use that for massive ticket profit. St. Catharines in Ontario is notorious for wrong way parking infractions. Or everywhere in Australia where the govt abuses police as tax collectors. In my area of ~3000 people, they have at least 3 cars and I'm not sure how many 4x4s or actual police. The cars are constantly being used either in roadblocks at the ends of town or to tail people along the residential streets. It's lucky it's a relatively low crime area because I'm not sure how much actual policing is actually done. Nothing seems to have come of catching the person / people that destroyed the main street or the ones that repeatedly break into and loot the primary school. I guess this town is just large enough that people like that don't go missing like in rural areas. No local forests.
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# ? May 15, 2013 22:58 |
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SaNChEzZ posted:Somebody decided textured spackle spraypaint was a good idea. I might be wrong, but that kinda looks like the paint body guys will use to find low/high spots in bondo after filling a dent. Also, given the left side looks like a chunk of bondo that has flaked off, it could be that its someone doing backyard body work on their MB and havent finished it yet.
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# ? May 16, 2013 00:04 |
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Octopus Magic posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiaqkRdc8B8 "I've built it USDM style." Proper translation: "I 21st-century-riced this poo poo the gently caress out."
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# ? May 16, 2013 02:22 |
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More here. http://autobotanik.livejournal.com/34899.html Part of me is scared. Another part of me wants to ship these guys a seacan full of rusted out muscle cars and put their skills to good use. Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:52 on May 16, 2013 |
# ? May 16, 2013 02:49 |
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enojy posted:"I've built it USDM style." Proper translation: "I 21st-century-riced this poo poo the gently caress out." It's totally meta.
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# ? May 16, 2013 02:52 |
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SaNChEzZ posted:Somebody decided textured spackle spraypaint was a good idea. They should use that as the new camo cover for testing prototypes.
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# ? May 16, 2013 03:51 |
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MetaJew posted:The license plate frame mounts to the tow hook location so that you don't have to drill the bumper.
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# ? May 16, 2013 04:53 |
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Progressive JPEG posted:When picking up an FR-S this morning, the dealer offered exactly this option. I'm probably going to just drill the bumper whenever the plates come; that off-center look is a bit odd to me.
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# ? May 16, 2013 13:44 |
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I thought long and hard about dropping my bumper off at the bodyshop that fixed my GLI after the wreck to have the stupid holes fixed in the bumper. gently caress front plates. I ended up just getting a 3m clear bra and you can't really see the holes unless you're right up on the car.
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# ? May 16, 2013 15:54 |
I've never put my front plate on my car since my home state never required it. I haven't even put it on the dash and I've never been pulled over or asked about it. Is it illegal for dealers to let you go without putting it on?
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# ? May 16, 2013 15:55 |
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JP Money posted:I've never put my front plate on my car since my home state never required it. I haven't even put it on the dash and I've never been pulled over or asked about it. Is it illegal for dealers to let you go without putting it on? Pretty sure the dealers don't give a poo poo. The white GolfR I was drooling on when I had my Golf in for the 20k service had no front plate mounted yet and it was in the showroom. Pretty sure they drill it at the port.
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# ? May 16, 2013 16:04 |
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JP Money posted:I've never put my front plate on my car since my home state never required it. I haven't even put it on the dash and I've never been pulled over or asked about it. Is it illegal for dealers to let you go without putting it on? It's not up to the dealer. They don't care if you get pulled over or not. What are they going to do, detain you until you put your plates on properly? It depends on the law in the state that issued the plates. If they only give you one, you rock one.
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# ? May 16, 2013 19:54 |
If the dealer is acting as the TTL agent and gets the plates themselves (and you don't have to go to the DMV) it makes sense to me that they'd need to enforce state law if it applies. I don't think a cop is going to believe "but the dealer didn't put them on!" as your excuse. The chances of all this happening are pretty slim either way; I'm just curious how the process works.
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# ? May 16, 2013 20:15 |
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I think dealers don't really care, but depending on the dealer, they may put them on any car in their lot. For sure, the dealer I bought mine at has every car with a front plate holder already, so you don't have much choice if you buy from them unless you special order. They might make you sign something releasing them from any liability, however.
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# ? May 16, 2013 20:17 |
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EightBit posted:The front of vehicles don't have poo poo for reflectors on them, at least in US market trim; the idea is that you are more likely to see the rear end better on your side of the road with the legally mandated rear reflectors than the front with significantly fewer mandated reflectors. When you park in the direction you are driving you can easily see the road from your drivers seat without moving the car thus reducing the danger to overlook traffic. When you park against the driving direction your drivers seat is away from the road and you have to move most of your car onto the road to get a clear view of the road. Thats pretty dangerous. At least thats the best explanation i've heard.
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# ? May 16, 2013 21:19 |
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Shai-Hulud posted:When you park in the direction you are driving you can easily see the road from your drivers seat without moving the car thus reducing the danger to overlook traffic. When you park against the driving direction your drivers seat is away from the road and you have to move most of your car onto the road to get a clear view of the road. Thats pretty dangerous. At least thats the best explanation i've heard. They're both pretty good, it's not like laws are documented as to why they are written.
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# ? May 16, 2013 21:40 |
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I thought it was because you would momentarily be driving on the wrong side of the road in order to get into the spot in the first place. Also it's illegal to reverse on city streets here unless it's for the purposes of parking. Deparking doesn't count, and I doubt it's OK to do a 180 into traffic.
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# ? May 16, 2013 21:44 |
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EightBit posted:They're both pretty good, it's not like laws are documented as to why they are written. You can almost guarantee that if a law is on the books, someone made money off of the decision though.
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# ? May 16, 2013 22:15 |
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Powershift posted:
Wrong thread, those guys do proper repairs.
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# ? May 16, 2013 22:49 |
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VikingSkull posted:Wrong thread, those guys do proper repairs. I hope you're being sarcastic, I see they butt welded both A-pillars, both D pillars, and at least one C pillar. I didn't look any further. The right hand dogleg butt weld I'll give em a pass on, that doesn't seem like much of an issue compared to the rest. e: I have seen the results of someone doing that kind of repair up here in the northeast and it was every single one of their butt weld seams rotting through from the back because they didn't even try to re-paint the back of their work. Just left it wide open. They missed like a half dozen spotwelds they drilled out holding the inner wall of the cab B-pillar to the outer wall + cab back panel, too, so those were full of rust and just flapping around. Oh, and they cut the right hand D pillar on the donor chassis even though they were using both the right hand rear quarter and the roof. Why? Should have just kept it in one piece... kastein fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 16, 2013 |
# ? May 16, 2013 23:01 |
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Yeah, I'll take that back, I didn't actually go through and look at the full set of pictures. I just know we've had that discussion here on previous stuff they've done where people here were being unreasonable with repairs and assumed it wasn't as extensive as this particular one. That being said, they are still miles ahead of some of the things I see in the States.
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# ? May 16, 2013 23:11 |
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VikingSkull posted:That being said, they are still miles ahead of some of the things I see in the States. Those things are scrapped in the States, for good reason.
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# ? May 17, 2013 03:44 |
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EightBit posted:Those things are scrapped in the States, for good reason. The gently caress they are, I work at an auto auction, I've seen cars way worse than that. My day to day job is writing condition reports, which is like being an insurance adjuster, and on Wednesdays I do the frame checks for our post sale inspection process. I look at the frames of 60-100 cars every Wednesday, plus a full on condition report for another 80 or so the rest of the week. We had one that was made up of three different cars once. Everything in front of the firewall was one car, and both C pillars and one of the B pillars off of another. Sectioning cars is a common practice here, though I probably see more of them due to my market being primarily the greater New York metro area. Mostly they are scrapped, due to insurance reasons, but trust me, it's not always the case. Seizure Meat fucked around with this message at 04:17 on May 17, 2013 |
# ? May 17, 2013 04:12 |
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Isn't it a rebadged Mahindra? If so, it's body-on-frame, and I'm not getting why the repair was inappropriate? As far as I know, butt welds shouldn't be weak in compression (i.e. another rollover, when it matters), or is the main concern with hardening at the weld or fatiguing of the base of the "B" pillar (where they bent it back) failing?
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# ? May 17, 2013 04:23 |
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The steel involved in the unibody structure of a vehicle never retains the same strength that it leaves the factory with after being heated, and some of the placements of those welds are in areas where the heat does nasty things. It would be one thing if they used the donor vehicles entire pillars and spot welded them like you see from an untouched car, but those butt welds aren't the ideal way of repairing that particular damage. Though they get bonus points for using seam sealer on the affected areas. The metal fatigue you mention is also a concern, because even bending the metal back will cause friction heat that will damage the molecular behavior of the metal. To the body-on-frame point, that's a touchy subject. For a long time, the ladder frame was considered the actual frame of a vehicle, while the pillar structure was not. This has been changing slowly, at least in regards to NAAA policy at our auctions, because although it's a two piece frame with the body bolting to frame rails, your pillars, floor and aprons form a safety cage nonetheless. Even the roof support rails under the roof skin is considered a structural piece on certain vehicles. A unibody structure is basically a tailor made roll cage like a race car has, and in a rollover those pillars are integral to occupant safety even though the ladder frame is not. Even in a side impact, almost all body-on-frame vehicles have the frame rails well inside the passenger area and the A, B, C and D pillars are responsible for protection. I've seen body-on-frame vehicles have the ladder torn out from under them while the unibody structure had a nasty rollover, but the cage held up fairly well despite the total removal of the frame rails. The driver died, sadly, but that was because he was ejected out of the door due to not wearing a seat belt. It's possible he may have survived had he been wearing one. Seizure Meat fucked around with this message at 04:38 on May 17, 2013 |
# ? May 17, 2013 04:32 |
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If that thing rolls over and takes a heavy hit to the roofline diagonal to the ground (hint: in a rollover, it probably will) those pillars are going to snap at the butt welds and probably do unkind things to the people inside. At least they did it at the top instead of, say, the middle of a B pillar. Do that, and being T-boned can put the sharp end of a previously butt welded pillar straight into your rib cage when it cracks off the part it was welded to and folds over. Seam sealer won't really do much there - unless they also applied it to the inside of the member post-weld, which is extremely unlikely. By the time you've welded something, the metal is burnt completely free of all galvanization, e-coat, primer, and paint it may have once had on both sides, so it's a ripe target for rust in even mildly damp climates with no salt. I've seen rust start on welded sheetmetal after only a single heavy dew or a week or two of summer humidity. Combine that with the fact that it starts out weaker than the surrounding area and you are going to have rust coming back through within a few years, AND it will be much more dangerous than a proper repair or factory chassis in an accident. And since it will start from the hidden inside of whatever chassis member was repaired, you won't know until it starts bubbling the paint. Hell, you may not know till it breaks in half, because it's got 1/8" of seam sealer and bondo over it, so the bubbles don't even show. I'm not much a stickler for stuff like rocker repairs, minor rust hole repairs, etc - those I can overlook some cut/shut, butt welding, etc because they don't have much effect on the overall structure. Something major like butt welding pillars and frame rails / entire sills back together? Hell with that, I like to stay alive. If you're going to weld on your car, you absolutely need to recoat the backside of whatever you welded to. If it's not accessible, something like this works great: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html Bonus: it costs $16 plus shipping once, but residue flushes out of the special applicator with a single burst of regular non-chlorinated brakleen (at least the kind with acetone in it.) And the whole nozzle assembly fits on basically any standard aerosol can, so you can use that applicator forever with whatever primers/paints you like (I'd probably go with rusto hammered or any rust converting primer/paint) as long as you remember to flush it out after every use. No excuse to not properly recoat welded areas from the inside when it costs that little. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:43 on May 17, 2013 |
# ? May 17, 2013 04:41 |
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I just brought up the seam sealer because they get an A for effort, haha. A lot of the times I see just goobered welds with wire sticking out of the backside, those Russians at least have heard of the proper way of fixing the unibody structure of a car, even if they miss a ton of it in execution. e- To touch on the friction heat thing I mentioned, an easy experiment to do is take a paper clip and straighten part of it out. Bend it back and forth a few times. First you'll start feeling heat and it will get easier to bend, after a few cycles of bending it the metal will simply snap. Obviously automotive quality steel works a bit differently than a paper clip, but it will give you the basic theory behind why even straightening bent structural steel compromises the rigidity of the structure. Seizure Meat fucked around with this message at 04:58 on May 17, 2013 |
# ? May 17, 2013 04:50 |
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I'm not sure I understand all of that but it sure sounds like a lot of work for a truck that probably cost $5k new.
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# ? May 17, 2013 04:59 |
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Throatwarbler posted:I'm not sure I understand all of that but it sure sounds like a lot of work for a truck that probably cost $5k new. I haven't watched this whole vid yet, but it seems pretty good so far. A lecture about general estimating procedures involved in repairing cars correctly. Not frame specific, but it gives you a great insight about how complicated correct collision repair is. The days of shadetree mechanics are over. Two things he stresses is that repair shops should get rid of torches because heat is bad, and that sectioning cars should never be done. That being said, all shops cut corners to varying degrees.
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# ? May 17, 2013 05:13 |
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Endless Mike posted:The dealer I bought from drills through the black grill, so it's not actually a big deal. Unfortunately, they had to trade with another dealer to get mine (I wanted blue) who drilled through the actual bumper.
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# ? May 17, 2013 05:29 |
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From PYF, wasn't sure with which thread. Went with this one because the person who posted it seemed to indicate this wasn't being tongue in cheek.
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# ? May 17, 2013 06:03 |
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# ? May 17, 2013 10:32 |
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I'm pretty sure I drew that when I was 12.
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# ? May 17, 2013 11:21 |
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Wolfsbane posted:I'm pretty sure I drew that when I was 12. It is lacking guns to be a true 12 year old's interpretation of the best car.
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# ? May 17, 2013 12:08 |
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dpack_1 posted:It is lacking guns to be a true 12 year old's interpretation of the best car. You mean those aren't guns on the hood? Dasco fucked around with this message at 13:53 on May 17, 2013 |
# ? May 17, 2013 13:50 |
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Am I a bad person for wanting this?
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# ? May 17, 2013 14:01 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 13:58 |
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Isn't that from that horrible Knight Rider remake?
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# ? May 17, 2013 14:47 |