|
What's the simplest way to check and do that without removing the front end?
|
#
?
May 19, 2013 20:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 03:13 |
|
|
Remove the fork cap and look inside. Put some measuring tape, ruler, or a stick down the tube to compare levels. Doesn't really matter what the absolute level is, if you assume one fork has the correct level (or MORE correct level). Fork cap may be under some spring pressure so don't put it in your eye. Oh yeah and make sure the front wheel is off the ground when you do this. Removing the fork caps while the front end is weighted would have hilarious results. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 20:33 on May 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2013 20:31
|
|
|
2001 Honda CB500 gave me some fun tonight. After riding for about half an hour on the local twisty roads I noticed the engine was getting a little warm so I pulled up to let it cool and check where the nearest gas station was. Started back up absolutely fine but as soon as it got upright it cut out. On the kickstand it would idle with no problem for as long as I liked, only pulling it upright would cause it to die. Foot rest being in or out made no difference and holding some revs in neutral only helped for a few seconds before it still died. After letting it cool for a good half hour it was absolutely fine. Is this just my bike being fussy about being hot or should I be worried about something else?
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2013 23:26
|
|
|
Ceteris paribus. Change only one thing. Did you pull it upright using the bars? If so you may have twisted the throttle. Or perhaps the kickstand retracted or moved. Wait until it happens again and determine the exact conditions that cause it to cut out, and explore if there are other methods of producing the same result.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 00:26
|
|
|
Hey guys, quick question, as you can see here: I'm missing the front sprocket cover for the bike I just picked up, the bikes year/model is a 1997 Kawasaki ZZR-600, I think it's the ZZR-600E. I was wondering if this would fit: ZZR-600 Sprocket Cover It's the only one in Australia on Ebay, and they're about $180 new with a 3 week or so wait, and none of the wreckers around here will sell me one unless I take the whole drat engine. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 07:22
|
|
|
Open up Chrome (or whatever browser of choice) then open up two tabs. Drag one tab to the left of the screen, and the other to the right side (or, hit "Windows key"+"left arrow" and the same for the right arrow). Open up Google Image Search in one, and the ebay listing in the other. In the GIS search, look for your model and year of bike, and compare to the auction listing. Standard procedure for all older bike purchases, even with proper listing tags and filing.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 07:30
|
|
|
Should fit, the ebay photo is upside down, and they all used the same engine so it should be fine. I'm guessing you've asked on findapart.com.au too? it was an invaluable resource when I was looking for ZZR250 bits. Congrats on the new bike! theperminator fucked around with this message at 12:19 on May 20, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 12:16
|
|
|
Yeah that'll fit.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 15:51
|
|
|
Looking for some easy to mount speakers for the scooter. Anyone have any recommendations? I don't really care too much about high-def sound, just something to break the silence. I don't really want something in helmet. I was looking at these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002N2LCQE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 16:53
|
|
|
This is the left carb on my bike: Am I correct in thinking that A = throttle stop screw and B = pilot screw? The reason I ask is that the right carb looks pretty much identical, but the cb360 manual seems to imply that there is only one throttle stop screw to adjust. The carbs don't look exactly like the ones in the manual though so I'm not sure!
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 18:05
|
|
|
You are probably right, as since the carbs are linked, adjusting one side would also adjust the other, idle-wise. The bottom screw looks like a fuel screw (pilot screw), but is in a wonky place for one. Weirder things have happened though, and Honda is known for using the absolute strangest carbs on their bikes
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
poo poo I'd rather have the pilot screw be on the side where it's accessible rather than the bottom where I can't fit in a screwdriver while the carb is on the bike 
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 19:38
|
|
|
theperminator posted:Should fit, the ebay photo is upside down, and they all used the same engine so it should be fine. A mate showed me that last night sometime, I used it as well. Just got off the phone with a Kawasaki dealer and apparently that one is from a D model, mine is an E model, looks the same but apparently they're not the same. :/ Just going to have to get one from overseas, might fab up something dodgy to cover it just to get rego.
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 23:07
|
|
|
Shimrod posted:A mate showed me that last night sometime, I used it as well. I might have one floating around if you want it. Could package it in with a nice rear shock too :P
|
|
#
?
May 20, 2013 23:35
|
|
|
Anybody have access to a service manual to a 08+ Ninja 250? I gave mine away with the bike when I sold it (no idea why, the person who bought it will never use it). Now I've signed myself up to do a valve adjustment on an 08+ 250 literally a day before we take it to the track. I used the book extensively when I did my valve adjustment and will likely gently caress it up without it. Willing to buy one off of someone if they can get it to me quick! I'm in Houston.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 02:54
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:Anybody have access to a service manual to a 08+ Ninja 250? I gave mine away with the bike when I sold it (no idea why, the person who bought it will never use it). Now I've signed myself up to do a valve adjustment on an 08+ 250 literally a day before we take it to the track. I used the book extensively when I did my valve adjustment and will likely gently caress it up without it. You could try Ninja250.org Z3n posted:I might have one floating around if you want it. Could package it in with a nice rear shock too :P I'll see how the findstuff website goes, two got back to me but one wants $110 for it, so I'll see how it goes.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 03:23
|
|
|
$110 for that part?  That's like 50% of what I'd ask for the shock (not including shipping, but it can't be more than 50 bucks to ship a shock and that piece to down under).
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 05:39
|
|
|
yergacheffe posted:poo poo I'd rather have the pilot screw be on the side where it's accessible rather than the bottom where I can't fit in a screwdriver while the carb is on the bike Good god, this times a million. D-shaped pilot screw my rear end, thanks for shoving it up between the cylinders to boot, Honda.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 06:13
|
|
|
XYLOPAGUS posted:Anybody have access to a service manual to a 08+ Ninja 250? I gave mine away with the bike when I sold it (no idea why, the person who bought it will never use it). Now I've signed myself up to do a valve adjustment on an 08+ 250 literally a day before we take it to the track. I used the book extensively when I did my valve adjustment and will likely gently caress it up without it. Lol Why do a valve adjustment the day before a track day? You're asking for trouble.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 06:16
|
|
|
What color rim tape should I put on my bike serious question Yellow? Red? White? Black? Solid? Pattern? Reflective? so many choices
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 07:52
|
|
|
Red, imo.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 08:05
|
|
|
http://www.lunasee.com/for-motorcycles/ obviously.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 08:23
|
|
|
Doesn't do goatse like the car rims though. I was thinking something like this:  Also, I should probably put mirrors on my bike too. Are the OEM '01 Bandit S mirrors decent or should I spring for something better? My issue is that I'm pretty tall and all I see is my shoulders and I don't wanna smack car mirrors when I lanesplit.  edit: Where can I acquire a threaded mirror stem in 10mm x 1.25mm? Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 09:02 on May 21, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 08:48
|
|
|
I just brought my bike in for the bi-annual checkup and the engineer commented that my chain binds slightly. If you kink it with your fingers it stays kinked, but it's easy to push back as well. I rode about 400km this weekend and haven't cleaned and lubed it again after that. Does it bind because it's dirty or is it time for a new chain? The bike is from 2007 and I'm pretty sure the PO never replaced the chain. e: The bike has about 8000km on it. Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 08:55 on May 21, 2013 |
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 08:51
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Doesn't do goatse like the car rims though. That's awesome, is that one of those roll-on ones or did that person have to cut it up then put it on?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 09:03
|
|
|
No idea. I found it via GIS and I think it looks awesome enough to inquire too.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 09:07
|
|
|
I took my Bandit out in the dark for the first time on Sunday. The lighting was absolutely terrible, I thought headlamps on classic cars were pretty terrible, but at least I had two! So, uh, is this normal? Just part of bike ownership? Or is there an easy upgrade I can do?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 10:00
|
|
|
It's actually funny you brought that up just now because I just, several minutes ago, ordered the supposed "best" headlight upgrade for the Bandit (least intrusive/best results) outside of HID's and completely rewiring the front harness: Here's a thread talking about replacing your 9005 and 9006 bulbs with 9011 and 9012 using some modification of the new bulbs' tabs. Same draw so you don't run any risk of frying anything but the output is supposedly MUCH better than stock. Here's a FAQ I found that explains the modifications necessary And here's step-by-step instructions on how to modify the tabs I agree that the stock headlights are terrible. Hope this helps. 
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 10:08
|
|
|
hermand posted:I took my Bandit out in the dark for the first time on Sunday. The lighting was absolutely terrible, I thought headlamps on classic cars were pretty terrible, but at least I had two! So, uh, is this normal? Just part of bike ownership? Or is there an easy upgrade I can do? I'd be interested in an answer for this as well. Every single-round-headlight bike I've ridden, regardless of brand, was useless at night. And my ZRX isn't any better, yet full- or half-faired bikes with fancy headlight housings like a car light up really well. What gives?
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 10:12
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:It's actually funny you brought that up just now because I just, several minutes ago, ordered the supposed "best" headlight upgrade for the Bandit (least intrusive/best results) outside of HID's and completely rewiring the front harness: Thanks dude - I'm glad there's nothing wrong, but it really took me by surprise. I'll have a read up on some of those options
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 10:24
|
|
|
With my impending license suspension, which will last at least a month, I've decided to take those lemons and make hobo-strength lemon-flavoured hobo-wine with them; Doing some overdue maintenance on the KTM and maybe even some upgrades at the same time. With that, I have a question: How much better are the Brembo HPK Monobloc calipers over the OEM stuff? I can get a HPK caliper for the SMC for about £200 (300USD). Is it a worthwhile upgrade at that price (compared to other upgrades, that is) or should I be looking at other upgrades before that, like a better master cylinder? I mostly want more nuanced feel on the initial bite. I'm probably going to be updating the whole suspension set up on the bike too. It needs a suspension rebuild front and rear, which will probably cost me about £300+. Alternatively I've found a good deal on the whole set (forks and shocks for around £600) on a stolen/recovered 2011 model - which that year got improved/updated units from WP. I'm even considering getting the frame powder coated while I have the motor dropped for a new cam chain.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 14:55
|
|
|
My bike's low beams are pretty useless, but the high beams are quite effective. Should I just ride with the highs on and "it's okay, I'm a motorcycle"? Or would that be lovely? I'm just wondering if there's some fact I don't know like motorcycle high-beam is no worse than a modern car's low beam, or something.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 15:02
|
|
|
Since I switched to a single headlight it really sucks on low at night, so I do use the high beam. Just don't leave it on constantly. Going thru the city with lighted streets is usually fine, but if I get on a darker road and there is no traffic coming the other direction, I flip the high beam on. My low just doesn't spread wide enough or far enough ahead. The high shows me the sides of the road and a bit farther down as well.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 15:17
|
|
|
I ride with my brights on most the time in the day-time. My MSF instructor even said it's not a bad idea. It's been brought up in this thread before and someone said it's a bad idea. I don't remember why. You might also by a better bulb. When the light burnt out on my CX500 I put a modern one in and it was way brighter for the same wattage.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 15:19
|
|
|
ReelBigLizard posted:
I'd be mighty shocked if you noticed any difference at all. At the kind of speeds a supermoto holds, and your 35 MPH speed limit, I'd say near zero improvment. The 690 already has awesome brake feel, no fade and great stopping power. You do already have a monoblock radial caliper, braided line and brembo MC. Now, if you say to yourself 'I wanna do it for the bling', then shine on. Edit: Suspension rebuild/tuning for your weight will probably yield a much more substantial improvement in braking forces.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 15:36
|
|
|
What spiff said. If you really want more out of the brakes, go to a brembo MC with a higher pivot point...if you want more bite in less lever travel, you'd want a 13 or 16x20. If you want more travel for better feel, run a 13 or 16x18. I dont recall what size piston (the first number) is recommended for single caliper setups. But the suspension will be a better upgrade. I'd have the stock stuff revalved and resprung for the appropriate weight and riding style.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 15:53
|
|
|
thylacine posted:I ride with my brights on most the time in the day-time. My MSF instructor even said it's not a bad idea. It's been brought up in this thread before and someone said it's a bad idea. I don't remember why. You might also by a better bulb. When the light burnt out on my CX500 I put a modern one in and it was way brighter for the same wattage. I used to do this on my vstar because the low beam is almost invisible with the sun out.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 15:59
|
|
|
alnilam posted:My bike's low beams are pretty useless, but the high beams are quite effective. Should I just ride with the highs on and "it's okay, I'm a motorcycle"? Or would that be lovely? I had to replace my sealed beam bulb, so I swapped it for an H4 kit and then put an 80/100 W bulb in there. It is the Steed of Ra now, before I even touch the hi-beams.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 16:09
|
|
|
Noob question: Can I buy a tire marked "tubeless" for a spoked wheel, which I presume uses a tube? I'm assuming "tubeless" means "you can use it tubeless if you want," rather than "it can only be used tubeless."
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 16:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 03:13 |
|
|
alnilam posted:Noob question: Can I buy a tire marked "tubeless" for a spoked wheel, which I presume uses a tube? That's correct. You can run tubes in a tubeless tire. You cannot not run tubes in a tire that requires tubes.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2013 16:21
|
|
