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 When was the house built? Are you sure there isn't a third switch for that light somewhere? Can you post pics of the original switches? How many terminals does each have, not counting the green ground? Where's the ground bonding wire for each switch? Please tell me there were wire nuts on those ground junctions, though based on the uncapped wire stuffed into the back of the box I fear there weren't. Something very hosed up is going on in this wiring and I don't trust the person who originally did it.
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May 19, 2013 16:46
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| # ? May 24, 2024 22:24 |
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House is twenty-four years old. There's been weird poo poo like this every time I've tried to change a device. No third switch, just a fixture and switch at the top landing and a fixture and switch at the bottom landing. Here are the two old devices, each with three terminals, brass common:  Note the previous installer used the push release connectors, not me. There were wire nuts on the ground junctions, yes. I removed them for the picture and then placed them back on. The upper right black wire in the first photo was the only uncapped wire. Frustrating thing is, I can get the drat thing to work if I just run the lower box's blacks together and whites together. I just lose that device. And now I'd be happy putting 3-way switches back in for the time being, but I didn't take a picture and now I can't remember how it was run. I'm headed out to get a continuity tester. I took a break from this disaster to change some outlets in a bedroom, and now that entire room is without power and I can't find where the problem is. Gonna be one of those days. edit: for reference, here's the device product website and installation PDF if it helps.
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May 19, 2013 17:07
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I'm guessing one of the white wires at the bottom of the stairs was abandoned as well; if that's true I think I know what's going on. Am I right?
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May 19, 2013 18:24
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One wire in the lower box was abandoned yes, though I couldn't tell you now which one. I'm sure you're right.
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May 19, 2013 18:34
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Slim Killington posted:No third switch, just a fixture and switch at the top landing and a fixture and switch at the bottom landing. Wait, did either switch turn on its own fixture and not the other?
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May 19, 2013 18:39
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The whole "connect both the travelers together" thing makes me think that the occupancy sensor device is not compatible with 3 way systems and so they just tell you to disable the 3 way by doing that. Connecting both travelers together will make the other 3 way switch do absolutely nothing.
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May 19, 2013 18:46
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Okay, The white wire in the pair in the top left of the box at the top of the stairs is now red. also, your switch leg is coming from the bottom of the stairs, so let's go with diagram 2B Upstairs: Connect the black from the bottom left of the box to the black wire of the sensor. Connect the bare wires to the green wire. Connect the two white wires that are tied together in your picture to the white sensor wire. Connect the black wire coming out of the top left pair to the red sensor wire. Connect the white wire from the top left pair to the blue sensor wire. Downstairs: You mentioned you could tell which of those pairs goes to the fixture, if your certain that it's just one of the pairs and not both we can proceed, if not we'll have to verify which is which. If you are certain: Connect both black wires together. Connect the white wire coming from the fixture to the common (black screw). Connect the other white wire to either of the other two screws. (this should be the same one that we attached to the blue wire of your sensor) Pigtail you grounds and attach them to the green screw. If this doesn't work it's most likely because the white coming from the fixture was abandoned up there as well and you'll need to open that up and pass it through.
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May 19, 2013 19:09
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I'm switching out a light fixture in my bath to a light/vent combo. Since the house is turn of the (last) century, there is some K&T remaining, but just for the first floor lighting. I found where the wiring goes into the existing light, and there is both 2 K&T conductors and a Romex line, along with the romex line running down to the switch (The light is on the bathroom circuit, which was updated). I just looked,and both K&T conductors are wire nutted in the ceiling box, not connected to anything. One of them is hot, so I'm guessing that's the hot line and the other is the neutral? If so, when I replace the fixture, is it a huge no-no to leave the live K&T in the electrical box? I'd have to tear the attic apart to figure out where it comes from. e: Probably nevermind. I was able to find where that K&T is spliced off and it would be trivial to disconnect it. Dragyn fucked around with this message at 20:58 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 20:28
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Generally speaking, the best rule for k&t is don't touch it. In your case though I'd be concerned about the vibration from the motor affecting the insulation if you left it in there. I'd really recommend calling in a pro for this one, if only to remove the old wiring back to the last splice; or at least to a new box a couple of feet away. Alternatively; get a few feet of romex, splice it to the romex in the junction box and install the vent in a different location and blank off the old box.
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May 19, 2013 21:16
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SneakyBeef posted:Okay, The white wire in the pair in the top left of the box at the top of the stairs is now red. also, your switch leg is coming from the bottom of the stairs, so let's go with diagram 2B Alright, followed your instructions and got to where I was this morning, only with the lower switch completing the circuit instead of me pigtailing the wires. The occupancy sensor works great, but the lower switch has no functionality.
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May 20, 2013 01:18
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I would open the downstairs light fixture and check that the same white wire that was abandoned in the downstairs switch isn't also abandoned up there. It most likely is, If I'm taking a conductor out of a circuit I disconnect it at both ends. And until you decided to change the type of device operating the lights there was no need for a neutral down there, now there is.
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May 20, 2013 01:31
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Awesome, thanks for the help. I'll check back in again.
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May 20, 2013 01:44
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Had a halogen bulb literally explode in one of my fixtures and now the base is still in the socket. Is there some trick to getting the broken glass out of the socket so I can put a new bulb in?
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May 20, 2013 05:44
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Wrap a bit of leather around it so you can grab it without cutting yourself. If you don't feel like doing that, stick a potato on it and turn it. I recommend not eating the glassified potato.
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May 20, 2013 06:12
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I tried pulling it out with pliers but it's broken off flush with the socket it pushes into.
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May 20, 2013 06:46
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Cat Hatter posted:I tried pulling it out with pliers but it's broken off flush with the socket it pushes into.
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May 20, 2013 15:03
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If the potato trick doesn't work you can try (by hand) using a screw extractor bit in the center.
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May 20, 2013 16:06
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I thought that the potato trick only worked on bulbs that screw into a fixture, not the peanut sized halogen bulbs that push straight into a socket and pull straight out. This is the bulb that's in there. If you look closely in my picture, there is a glass dome that screws around the socket to protect the bulb that was taken out in the explosion but I've already removed that.
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May 20, 2013 19:14
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I just turn the power off and use the "needlenose pliers trick".
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May 21, 2013 05:37
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I have an outdoor outlet on a pole that has a light plugged in to it to light my back yard at night. Recently the light has stopped working. I confirmed neither outlets work. No breakers are tripped. There is an (open) junction box above the outlet with a bunch of wires held together with splicing caps. I am pretty handy but most of my electrical knowledge is from 12v automotive systems. What is the most likely cause (I figure the open box full of splices) and should I even bother trying to fix this myself or call in an electrician?
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May 21, 2013 21:40
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It sounds like you need to start by resetting the gfci outlet. If It's not one of the outlets on the pole you'll need to find where it's fed from. E: And if that solves the problem turn it back off so you can get a cover on that box, as it's likely what caused the fault. SneakyBeef fucked around with this message at 22:30 on May 21, 2013 |
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May 21, 2013 22:26
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Get a cheap volt tick. You can pick one up for ten bucks or so. If you hold it near the wires at the outlet it'll tell you if the outlet is getting any power to it. If it is and it's not a tripped gfci outlet, you'll need to replace the outlet. If its not getting power then turn off the breaker and check the splices.
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May 22, 2013 01:13
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It's possible that there is a GFCI outlet "upstream" of your pole, perhaps in the house. Check for tripped GFCIs indoors as well.
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May 22, 2013 01:16
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I am planning on running new wiring through my home that I just bought. I also have a lot of 12/3 romex on hand. Code wise, can I use this wiring to wire regular 110volt 20amp outlets and cut off or cap the unused red wire? I googled this and every link is giving me information on multi-wire branch circuits, which is what I do not want to mess with.
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May 22, 2013 23:44
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The Gardenator posted:I am planning on running new wiring through my home that I just bought. I also have a lot of 12/3 romex on hand. Code wise, can I use this wiring to wire regular 110volt 20amp outlets and cut off or cap the unused red wire? I googled this and every link is giving me information on multi-wire branch circuits, which is what I do not want to mess with. You can absolutely do it
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May 22, 2013 23:51
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So I just got a NEST thermostat and it appears after many hours of tech support that I need a 24v C wire to power the NEST. Using the voltage on the Y/Cool wire is making it drop too low and it shuts the switch off. Problem is I can't find a C terminal/hookup on the control board. Anyone have any ideas?  Click for giaganto image: http://i.imgur.com/ed7DS5I.jpg
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May 23, 2013 00:19
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I'm no expert, but some searching revealed this page: http://www.dr-fix-it.com/ttt/10005.html It suggests that the C, or Brown wire, is a 24v common, but might use other colors, including white. Would it be possible to hook up a multimeter and check if you have 24v on your White?
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May 23, 2013 00:47
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The Gardenator posted:I am planning on running new wiring through my home that I just bought. I also have a lot of 12/3 romex on hand. Code wise, can I use this wiring to wire regular 110volt 20amp outlets and cut off or cap the unused red wire? I googled this and every link is giving me information on multi-wire branch circuits, which is what I do not want to mess with. That's fine... do yourself and future owners a favor and just cap it off instead of cutting it. It might come in handy sometime (for instance, if you want to break off the jumper tab on the hot side of the outlet and feed the second outlet as a switched-power one for a floor lamp.)
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May 23, 2013 01:04
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poxin posted:So I just got a NEST thermostat and it appears after many hours of tech support that I need a 24v C wire to power the NEST. Using the voltage on the Y/Cool wire is making it drop too low and it shuts the switch off. Problem is I can't find a C terminal/hookup on the control board. Anyone have any ideas? Use the common on the transformer. In the diagram, 24 VAC common is shown on the lower right. This looks like it has the same diagram, if you want to look at a cleaned up version: http://igate.northernplumbing.com/manuals/goodman/pgb.pdf
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May 23, 2013 01:16
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Fixed it with a Tech 2 Nest support person. We just hooked up the Common wire on the back of the Nest to the A/C Chassis with a screw. Worked  I have cooling now thank god.
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May 23, 2013 01:28
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poxin posted:Fixed it with a Tech 2 Nest support person. We just hooked up the Common wire on the back of the Nest to the A/C Chassis with a screw. Worked Lol what? If that were line voltage, using the ground as a neutral path would be soooo illegal. Take a picture of the terminal strip on your A/C's control board. We'll show you the proper way to hook it up. Dalrain posted:I'm no expert, but some searching revealed this page: http://www.dr-fix-it.com/ttt/10005.html All HVACs have a 24V Common terminal. That's what the contactors in AC condensers and the solenoid valves in humidifiers use as their neutrals for their calls. The problem is that older thermostats operated simply as feedback loops with no need for a dedicated neutral ran to them. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:55 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 19:49
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kid sinister posted:Lol what? If that were line voltage, using the ground as a neutral path would be soooo illegal. Take a picture of the terminal strip on your A/C's control board. We'll show you the proper way to hook it up. Here are the pictures I took of the board. http://imgur.com/a/2PI7y. Let me know if you need a better picture of something.
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May 23, 2013 19:57
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Sorry, I meant the board where all the control wires connect to. Where the Y, R, W and G terminals are. Where to those wires enter the chassis?
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:14 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 20:00
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Pufflekins posted:You can absolutely do it kastein posted:That's fine... do yourself and future owners a favor and just cap it off instead of cutting it. It might come in handy sometime (for instance, if you want to break off the jumper tab on the hot side of the outlet and feed the second outlet as a switched-power one for a floor lamp.) Ok thanks for the replies. Another problem I have is my masonry exterior walls. On the interior of them I will be placing 2x2 wood 16" apart with drywall cover. I read conflicting information on whether I have to run the wire in a conduit or can just run it through the studs with nail guards over the 2x2's.
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May 25, 2013 00:52
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I would run it in a conduit, 1/2" conduit is really cheap (around 2-3 bucks for 10 feet, IIRC) and it'll make it easier to change things in the future. I am not sure what NEC says, though.
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May 25, 2013 01:24
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My issue with the light pole was indeed a tripped GFCI outlet. Thanks for the suggestion!
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May 25, 2013 02:51
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kastein posted:I would run it in a conduit, 1/2" conduit is really cheap (around 2-3 bucks for 10 feet, IIRC) and it'll make it easier to change things in the future. I decided to go with plastic boxes because they are cheaper in cost and labor than a steel box. If I remember right, the corresponding plastic conduit will be more expensive than metal. I am hoping that I do not have to use conduit, since the wire will be placed 2 inches (1 1/2" wood and 1/2" drywall) from the surface. I guess I will have to call the local electrical inspectors on Monday. Not a big deal though, thanks.
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May 25, 2013 03:11
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Quick, highly uneducated question: I've got a tile shower I'm remodeling and would like to add a light to. There is a light in the bathroom (maybe 48" from desired location) that would be ideal to just move straight in there and use a new waterproof fixture. I've taken the old fixture off and the box out, but the wiring needs to be longer. What's the best way to do this? Are there any special precautions to take since its a shower? House was built in 1971 and all the electrical seems to be original. edit - would adding a junction box in place of the current fixture and then running new wire be the easiest solution? Soopafly fucked around with this message at 17:42 on May 25, 2013 |
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May 25, 2013 17:09
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kastein posted:I would run it in a conduit, 1/2" conduit is really cheap (around 2-3 bucks for 10 feet, IIRC) and it'll make it easier to change things in the future. The NEC says that NM must be fastened to and ran through studs at least 1&1/4" back from the stud face for new work. This is a problem for 2x2 furring strip walls since 2x2s are actually 1&1/2 by 1&1/2. You can't staple in a quarter inch width and it's near impossible to drill a hole sideways flat against a wall. You could do a couple things: 1. Make your wall deeper with thicker studs 2. Pre-cut notches along the back of the studs for cable before you put them up against the wall. 3. drill holes shallower than 1&1/4" then put up the steel nail guards 4. drill holes shallower than 1&1/4" run MC cable between boxes 5. run conduit and steel boxes then fasten them to the masonry walls, then build a wall around them.
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May 25, 2013 17:32
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I haven't done much residential and I've got a guy who wants me to throw a security light on his deck. Which is no problem, but what's the best way to conceal the wire going from under the deck up to the light. I don't want to leave any exposed wire and I don't feel conduit would be the best route.
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May 26, 2013 20:56
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