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Lord Gaga posted:How many gallons did you use on the lathe? Less then 1 gallon, and that's with two coats.
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May 20, 2013 14:24
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fps_bill posted:I don't know if tramming is the correct term or not. I watched a video of a dude who put an indicator on his cross feed or compound to check its runout and referred to it as tramming. OK, I always thought tramming was when you were adjusting your headstock, but I've heard it used more on mills. I'm not an expert at all. All the runout and stuff will get checked. Some it you can fix easily with adjustments, other stuff would need scraping on the ways to fix. What can't be fixed easily can usually be worked around once the operator has some clue to what they are doing and learns the idiosyncrasies of the machine.
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May 20, 2013 14:27
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 I'm real excited for how this is gonna turn out. Hopefully, anyways. Thank god that awful, awful lining on the left side is going to be trimmed away. I need to dome the W now, for appearance and strength. I was dumb not to do that first, though, the lettering is very work-hardened and stiff (and needs to stay that way so they don't collapse with more forming) which will make introducing a nice natural curve to the overall shape trickier, and will complicate any bouging out of dings and errant dents at the end.
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May 20, 2013 19:27
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So as mentioned, new forge design and pictures forthcoming. They are not as interesting as the lathe restoration, but hopefully some individuals will either find inspiration, or be able to give me pointers on what I can improve:   Here is a video of it in operation, the compressor is not running- the only noise you hear is the roar of the oil igniting and the relatively quiet sound of the sprayer operating at 40 PSI. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuRpddzdInw&feature=youtu.be So things I am considering, but not sure they will help/hinder: 1- Inverting the whole forge, hot air rises, and forcing it down and out probably keeps most of the 'good heat' up in that upper chamber where it does not do anything useful. 2- Changing the injection angle to point more towards the middle, hopefully achieves a more even flow. 3- Changing the injection angle to point along the top instead of down and into the forge itself, hopefully achieves more complete combustion with just heat being forced down. 4- Building a pre-heat chamber which will ignight the oil before entry into the system. 5- Switching to an electric spray gun, and coupling it with a separate bulk air source, with the assumption that: 1 you generally need more air, and 2 being able to control the oil flow and air flow separately will be useful.
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May 21, 2013 05:12
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All the gearbox parts are cleaned up and accounted for. I figured out that the grey stuff that was caked all over these gears was anti-seeze compound. This parts washer was worth every penny just to make my life easier cleaning up the gearbox and apron parts! Last night after getting all the parts cleaned up good where I can handle them I decided I'll start assembly and get the gearbox ready to go before bed time. Hold on, Not so fast! Upon getting ready to install the very first gear I noticed two issues. One, these gears have some rust deposits and stuff my steel wool, wire brush, and kerosene didnt' remove. Also, more importantly, I noticed something different about my shaft. All the ones I've seen pics of have a pin pressed into the shaft that fits in this gear's key way. Mine however has two holes with a keyway cut, except it was missing the key! When I first took this apart I didn't think anything of this and assumed it was for oil, however this is a pressed on gear which is not supposed to spin on the shaft. A trip to the harware store this morning yielded some 3/16" key stock. Yet another thing on this lathe that previous owner(s) didn't do correctly. This evening when I get home from work I'll hit the gears with some naval jelly, another trip through the part's washer, and hopefully assemble the gear box before bed... even if I have to go to bed late.  Linux Assassin posted:...hopefully some individuals will either find inspiration, or be able to give me pointers on what I can improve... I'm not sure how this is going to hold up over time. I think you'd be much better with other options. That being said, before you do anything else, you must have a blower. You are running way too rich which is why why it is burning like crap. A pre-heat chamber igniting the oil before the forge/furnace is not a great idea. The pre-heat box will be prone to quick failure and also causes inefficiency. If you don't have success with adding a blower, or it fails quickly, I'd try out either a delvan nozzle or similar... or just go with the tried and true so-called "moya burner."
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May 21, 2013 17:48
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:
It actually is not burning like crap, the burn is good, its just that the heat is very localized, and I'm sure it could get better. I actually have a moya style burner already built, and it works great in cylindrical foundry-style burners. For whatever reason I kind of like the long flat style of forge and was hoping to figure out a way to get waste oil to heat one (It works great for short periods by just loading it with charcoal) However if I the moya style into the forge I have there it will fail to ignite and/or produce a LOT of smoke. I wanted to get a nice long heating area. I may have to give up on this design and tear apart the forge as built rebuild it into something more cylindrical, but I'd prefer not to if I can avoid it.
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May 22, 2013 16:12
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Last night when I came home from work I gave all the internal parts a coat of naval jelly, let it sit 10 minutes, washed it off with water, then gave them another round through the parts washer. Came out great, no rust anywhere. I'm glad I took the time to do this. I got the first shaft in the gearbox last night. (Something isn't right in this picture, more on that later.) Wasn't able to go any further tho as something came up that I had to wake up early morning for...  ... which was go pick up a gantry crane I found for $400 on craigslist. The chain hoist is rated for 2 ton and its carriage is rated for 1 ton. This is an old gantry, very well built. I have now solved my problem of how in the world am I going to lift all the heavy pieces to assemble my milling machine. I looked for a rental, could not find one. I couldn't build one or hire a rigging company for $400. They normally go $1k+ used, so I'm quite pleased. This one has an adjustable height. The size of this thing is absoutely perfect for my needs.  When I went to put in the ball detent after unloading the gantry I noticed I stupidly installed a gear backwards. Took the shaft back out and fixed that. I kept the original paint inside as you can see. It LOOKS dirty, but I assure you it is clean.  Second shaft installed. I found when installing this that I inserted the hex nut backwards and the holes for the taper pin would not line up correctly. It went together rather easy after fixing that issue.  Here's the internals with the levers installed. All the parts were assembled with a fresh coat of oil, and all the shafts, gears, and levers operate as they should.  One gearbox ready to go patiently waiting for its lead screw. This evening I will try to get a buddy to stop by and assist with installing the gearbox/lead screw on the lathe.  Linux Assassin posted:It actually is not burning like crap, the burn is good, its just that the heat is very localized, and I'm sure it could get better. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 20:22 on May 22, 2013 |
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May 22, 2013 20:18
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:I assure you that is running very rich, and as a result you are not getting the heat you should in the forge. Forge design issues aside, add a blower for shits and giggles. Once I do so I will report back. I am glad it's not as much as issue of 'your whole design is bad and won't work'.
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May 22, 2013 21:41
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Linux Assassin posted:Once I do so I will report back. Just FYI, AbsentMindedWelder IS Moya. The Moya burner is his creation, so I'd trust his advice on it.
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May 22, 2013 21:55
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Linux Assassin posted:Once I do so I will report back. You should also fashion some type of a gate valve or way to control the amount of air flow for fine tuning the mixture.
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May 22, 2013 22:44
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Hello goons! I bring you a project! I'm part of London Hackspace, recently we've been very annoyed about all our cheap tools breaking so a couple members pledged (raised money) for something a bit more industrial. We had nothing to cut metal bar as the previous evolution rage saw had died so that was going to be the first port of call, fortunately a metal shop not 50 yards from our front door had a couple for sale. £150, a pallet truck and plenty of effort later we have this sitting in our metal shop.   It was buried behind (under) a massive pile of scrap wood/metal and hadn't been used for 5 years, I'm pretty sure it hadn't been cleaned for 20, they stopped using it because it stopped working, so its an electrical problem, mechanically it seemed fine.  RAPIDOR MANCHESTER MAJOR, some right tuff norvern iron that is lad.   The compressed, corroded metal swarf was completely solid and a pain to remove from the caked on layers of old, solidified oil and grease, so first stop was a nice bath in gunk (or cheap lovely gunk substitute if you can't find the REAL thing), this loosened the majority of the stuff which was removed with a wire brush, paint scraper and a number of flat headed screwdrivers to get into the really awkward parts, this took the better part of a day.  A 21mm spanner and a few hammer blows dislodged the vice jaws enough to slide them off, an inspection of the threaded bar showed that where it had been used without cleaning, the compressed pile of swarf beneath it had flattened the thread out in the middle (sorry, no pics), I was really hoping this wouldn't become an issue. I also took off the top plate for the runner to clean out the metal shavings lodged in there, they where EVERYWHERE, I left the top plate, runners and vice parts soak in degreaser overnight so I had a hope of getting them clean.  Got the vice back together, that threaded bar wouldn't have been an issue if I only wanted to clamp stuff 20cm wide, any closer than that and it bound on the threading, fortunately there was enough material left that I could just dump thick industrial oil over it and force the thread through the vice, basically re-tapping it, taking about half an hour of grunting and swearing. As I had no way to hose it down in the basement I just wiped off the worst with blue roll, it's not exactly pretty, but its clean, I think it has a bit of charm with its old flaking paint and slightly rusted surface. Oh, and that electrical problem? The micro-switch screw that shuts the saw off when it hits the bottom was adjusted too far down, meaning that the saw wouldn't work no matter where it was, a quick turn and the push of a button and it works like a champ, took about 2 minutes to cut through a scaffold pole and about 20 seconds for a box section of aluminium. I'm not going to "restore" it any further past this, it all works apart from the shock absorber, but that just needs the swarf cleaning out of it and refilling with oil, its a working machine and will probably get plenty of unwarranted abuse in out workshop. Here's a video of its first cut, note the cut-off hadn't been adjusted properly and it keeps cutting after the saw drops, this has been fixed since. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4B-54ffaD2c edit: Ignore the guy who says its aluminium in the vid, thats a steel pipe. Yeti Fiasco fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 22, 2013 23:56
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That's a nice unit you got there. I want to buy a power hacksaw even more now.
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May 23, 2013 01:14
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iForge posted:Just FYI, AbsentMindedWelder IS Moya. The Moya burner is his creation, so I'd trust his advice on it. I was not actually aware of this. However it's not that I did not take his advice to heart. I was just initially defensive of my design, as I believe anyone would be when they think they may have stumbled upon something useful.
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May 23, 2013 04:10
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FYI, when I used the word crap, it was not to be an rear end in a top hat, just trying to give you the truth as I see it, for what it's worth.
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May 23, 2013 05:02
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:FYI, when I used the word crap, it was not to be an rear end in a top hat, just trying to give you the truth as I see it, for what it's worth. Yea, I get it. It just took a second post from you before I was willing to admit that it was not working as wonderfully as I imagined.
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May 23, 2013 05:12
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AMW: your gearbox is a thing of beauty. You're getting so close I can almost taste it. Yeti: that hacksaw is great, have you bolted it to the floor yet? the shaking is kinda scary. Also aren't they supposed to work at a much higher speed? The ones I've seen look like a methed out adrenaline junkie is crankin away on it.
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May 23, 2013 05:33
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nope, all the videos I've seen of this one have it running at that speed. Also it wobbles because our shop floor is terrible and uneven, when we decide its final place we'll probably cast a little concrete plinth for it to sit on, we're reluctant to bolt it just get because we don't want to break the cast iron tabs off, as it pretty much is unrepairable.
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May 23, 2013 08:18
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Yeti: That hacksaw is awesome. I've never seen one of those before. And it looks very precise. So cool.
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May 23, 2013 17:01
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the cut it gives is very clean, but the arm does wobble eeeever so slightly, I think that's just from wear and it being so old, it was probably amazingly accurate when new.
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May 23, 2013 17:14
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Yeti Fiasco posted:the cut it gives is very clean, but the arm does wobble eeeever so slightly, I think that's just from wear and it being so old, it was probably amazingly accurate when new. I can't tell from the pictures, but is there a pivot point that you can shim with a washer or two to compensate for the wear?
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May 23, 2013 22:17
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Last night when I got home I retrieved the leadscrew out of the garage's attic. The past few years it's been sitting in a piece of straight angle iron sitting in wooden blocks with a notch cut out so the pointy side faced down. This kept it from sagging and bending. I also had it covered in grease so it wouldn't get any more rust then it already had. Upon close examination I found it had some paint on it! After yet more four letter words directed at the persons who took a paint brush to this machine, I gave it a cleaning in the part's washer and a coat of citistrip. Let it soak in for over an hour, followed by another pass through the parts washer. There was still some light surface rust which a coat of naval jelly and a third trip through the parts washer took care of. I then gave it a quick rub down on the buffing wheel. This morning my assistant and I attempted to install the leadscrew and gearbox but I couldn't get it get it to slide into the worm drive. It turns out I mixed up the pins for the locking ring and the bushing. I had to take the apron off the saddle and swap the pins out. With everything else I was rather meticulous making sure everything fit properly, but I somehow forgot to check for any protrusions in the worm drive. This evening after work we got the lead screw and gear box mounted. You'll note the handle on the gearbox tumbler handle isn't polished. The buffing wheel did clean it up but it wouldn't polish. I will try some brasso by hand, If not I'll attack it with a small wire wheel and buffing wheel in a die grinder. Next stop is cleaning up the headstock a bit more and bolting it on. 
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May 24, 2013 05:13
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That thing looks awesome and you should be proud as all hell.
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May 24, 2013 12:22
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Next stop is cleaning up the headstock a bit more and bolting it on. This seems like a decent place to ask...I'm trying to strip multiple coats of paint off a set of aluminum wheels. Right now using a generic "aircraft stripper" which is working pretty good but if there is something that would be faster and require less rubbing I would love to know about it.
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May 24, 2013 14:37
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I've been using citristrip. I generally put a coat on, let it soak anywhere from 1 to 10 hours. 2-3 hours is usually best. I then hose it down to get all the chemical off the part, which keeps it from dissolving nitrile gloves too fast. I then use what I would call very light mechanical means choosing from a combination of scotchbrite, steel wool, wire brush, wire wheel. Repeat as necessary. When you are all done, give it a good cleaning in solvent to get the chemical out of the pores. Edit: I forgot, paint scraper and an assortment of lovely screwdrivers are useful. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 15:46 on May 24, 2013 |
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May 24, 2013 15:22
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My wife is going to killlll me.
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May 24, 2013 23:29
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When she does, can I have that thing?
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May 24, 2013 23:46
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Sagebrush posted:When she does, can I have that thing? I'll arm wrestle you for it.
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May 25, 2013 04:21
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Pretty sure that's a Dynasty 200 DX, correct me if I'm wrong... that's one hell of a machine.  Good luck with the wife.I was looking at them before I picked up my Syncrowave at a deal I couldn't pass up. Best part about them is they take a very wide variety of input voltages, something like 110-480, plus both single and three phase. I've seen aluminium welds done on a Dynasty on 110v single phase that if you had asked me before were possible I would have said no. While impressive, I still don't see that as a good excuse for not having a good 220v circuit in the home shop!
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May 25, 2013 04:37
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Uh oh, I am going to a tool shop today to pick up some gear for my Sherline. Bank account, prepare to suffer. It is very hard to decide what I need right now, and what I really want because its cool.
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May 25, 2013 12:38
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I will be putting a Linux CNC based control on this: 4 Axis CNC mill
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May 25, 2013 12:59
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:Pretty sure that's a Dynasty 200 DX, correct me if I'm wrong... that's one hell of a machine. Correct, with contractor kit. I paid the same price as a bare machine off cyberweld for the entire kit with 2.5 hours on it from the local welding supply store. Full warranty and a free refill on my tank. I sold my Sycrowave 180SD some time ago and was holding off buying a new machine until my shop is done, but I have projects waiting that needed a TIG. Plus I hated borrowing my friends. No issue on the 240V, have a 90amp panel in the shop. I had to rewire the plug last night (I had a 60amp breaker for a oven/welder outlet) and replaced it with a much nicer 30amp twist lock. Now to get some practice in. I'm rusty and have pipe to weld.
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May 25, 2013 16:41
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Today iForge came over and graciously donated some of his time to install a light above the lathe and the fused disconnect. The light is about 7 ft high and turned on by the switch on the wall. We also ran an outlet over to the parts washer so I don't have to use an extension cord. I still have to work on mounting the VFD and order up some push button switches for start/stop/rev. While those events were occurring I gave the headstock and bearing caps two coats of naval jelly and a trip through the parts washer. They cleaned up much better then before. I'll snap a pic when I install the headstock on the lathe bed tomorrow. I also did some paint touch ups to it while it's off the bed.  Now I can actually see what I'm doing... imagine that!  A closeup image of the lead screw was requested of me.  Bonus image of iForge demonstrating fantastic ladder safety. 
AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 00:31 on May 26, 2013 |
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May 26, 2013 00:27
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I'm really happy with the way this is comin' along. It's not done, but I jumped the gun and put it to the buffing machine because I'm incredibly impatient.  it's about... 7, 8 inches wide? I just wish I had gone with thicker stock because there's still a lot of flex at the thinnest point despite me work-hardening the hell out of everything and curling all the curlable edges for more structural reinforcement. That and there's a fair bit of errant dings and scratches and etc that I'm gonna try to burnish out of existance but are otherwise just going to have to stay because I don't wanna thin it out any more with filing and sanding, and the 'inner' curled edges are rough as hell because I don't have a nice concave steel form against which to bouge out the bumpies. For everything else I used dome stakes made out of pipe caps, which ain't the best solution but it'll do. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:35 on May 26, 2013 |
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May 26, 2013 00:53
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Ambrose Burnside posted:stuff Your images aren't coming through on this or your last post.
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May 26, 2013 01:23
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Fixed; used a website-specific image host out of habit.
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May 26, 2013 01:34
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For some reason the only response I can come up with for this is: "... ain't nothing to gently caress with."
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May 26, 2013 04:09
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So, the amount of degrees I need to offset my lathe to turn the taper I want is .337 degrees. How on earth do I measure that? I was looking at digital protractors, but they seem to only go to one decimal for the most part, and would involve me tipping my lathe on it's side to measure the angle. They are more like digital incline gauges. Digital mitres also only seem to go to 1 decimal place. The way my lathe works to turn tapers is to rotate the headstock, not offset the tailstock. I am turning a piece of cold roll from .445 to .333 over a 9.5 inch length.
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May 27, 2013 03:30
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Some toolmaker will probably have a better idea or point out something wrong, but here's a first attempt. You probably can't measure this angle directly with any chance of success. Thankfully, modern calculators can do trig functions, so using our good friends "tan" and "arctan", I would try something like this: Square up your headstock. Run the carriage up close to the headstock. Put an indicator somewhere on your carriage and indicate any flat surface on the side of the headstock. Feed the carriage between two points as far apart as possible, any exact distance will do. Take care with backlash, etc. Zero the indicator at the right-hand point. Feed the carriage to the left-hand point. Compute the angle between them (arctangent of difference over distance). This is your baseline angle. In an ideal world there would be zero difference between the two points, but this isn't very likely. Add or subtract .337 degrees from this to get the desired angle. Using the desired angle and the distance between points, compute the desired offest of the left-hand point from the right-hand point. (tangent of desired angle times distance between points) And finally: Tap the headstock in the correct direction. Move to the right-hand point and zero. Move to the left-hand point and check the offset. Repeat until success. edit: Some dumbass mixed up left and right. sixide fucked around with this message at 04:26 on May 27, 2013 |
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May 27, 2013 04:23
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Headstock bolted down, reversing gear installed, banjo gears installed. The last gear that needs to go is the gearbox input shaft gear. I tapped the gear on gently with a block of wood and hammer till a few threads peeked through, and the hex nut easily pressed the gear on all the way. I lubed the gear train up with CMD Extreme Pressure Lube #3 on good recommendation from South Bend experts. The serpentine belt is glued up and clamped between a piece of angle iron and wood. I never did get around to glueing up a test piece. Turns out I wouldn't have had enough left over anyway. Hopefully I mixed it up enough this time. I cleaned the belt quite thoroughly with acetone. Keeping my fingers crossed. I also got some touch up paint drying to fix some imperfections on the pedestal side cover and headstock pulley cone cover. Tomorrow I plan to install the spindle, backgear, finish the tailstock, and a few other odds and ends. 
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May 27, 2013 04:42
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So many lovely, lovely gears.
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May 27, 2013 06:08
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