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VelociBacon posted:Been reading a lot about cold-start piston slap being 'normal' on our H4 motors. Is this really the case? How come this is considered normal on an opposing cylinder motor but not an inline or V-configuration? Well, they can get piston slap. I'm not a domestic V8 guy at all but I'm pretty sure it happens with Chevy V8s as well. The reason it's a problem on boxers, Subarus in particular, is for a few reasons. One is obviously there's a force vector from the weight of the piston pointing towards the cylinder wall, but that force is small compared to the engines forces. Second is that Subaru pistons have small skirts, which allow them to move through a larger angle. Third is that Subaru engines have a large bore/stroke ratio. There's a limit on how large you can make the stroke because of the width of the engine bay, so Subaru compensates with a bigger bore. An EJ20 has a B:S of 1.23. Compare that to, say, a 4G63 which is .97. I'm not sure about the conrod/crank ratio, but I think it's lower than most, which means the conrod goes through a larger angle, pull or pushing the piston into the walls of cylinder. Finally, you have a JDM STi which has forged pistons. These expand a lot more than cast pistons, which means that when cold, the piston-to-wall clearance is large. And that's why boxers have piston slap.
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May 23, 2013 21:34
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I got the crossbars off! Tower/rail closeup:  Strange fastener type to deal with:  Top shot, showing placement of rails relative to stock mounting area (the outer black strips):  Fastener out (which are plastic - wtf?), and plastic cap off, revealing a normal allen key that attaches the crossbars to the internal towers that run in the tracks:  Slid the posts out of the tracks, getting the crossbars off:  Before side profile:  After side profile (much cleaner!):  Also, I got the weird fastener out by using this awesome set of bits, from Lee Valley: http://tinyurl.com/nlwz6fd . Your standard bit set, plus a bunch of weird ones (some of which I've never seen).
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May 23, 2013 22:15
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Aflicted posted:Yesterday I went put my deposit down on a 2013 WRX hatch in satin white pearl. I was so close to getting WR Blue and then having seen the sedan in SWP on the lot, it was an easy call. Now starts the two week wait for the car to get here. It was one that was in transit to another dealer and is being redirected to me. Hah! I went to the dealership last weekend and put down on a 2013 satin white pearl STi hatch, which also happened to be in transit. Can't wait til it gets here. My girlfriend has the base Impreza and even that is a fun car to drive.
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May 23, 2013 22:45
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Captain McAllister posted:I got the crossbars off! Looks good. Now all you need is a rear spoiler
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May 23, 2013 23:32
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I've seen guys use the 9-2X roof mouldings to do a roof rail delete but I can't for the life of me figure out how it would work on your car based on this picture: I wonder if the WRX roof rails are somehow different from yours. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:39 on May 23, 2013 |
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May 23, 2013 23:36
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Neptr posted:Well, they can get piston slap. I'm not a domestic V8 guy at all but I'm pretty sure it happens with Chevy V8s as well. The reason it's a problem on boxers, Subarus in particular, is for a few reasons. One is obviously there's a force vector from the weight of the piston pointing towards the cylinder wall, but that force is small compared to the engines forces. Second is that Subaru pistons have small skirts, which allow them to move through a larger angle. Third is that Subaru engines have a large bore/stroke ratio. There's a limit on how large you can make the stroke because of the width of the engine bay, so Subaru compensates with a bigger bore. An EJ20 has a B:S of 1.23. Compare that to, say, a 4G63 which is .97. I'm not sure about the conrod/crank ratio, but I think it's lower than most, which means the conrod goes through a larger angle, pull or pushing the piston into the walls of cylinder. Finally, you have a JDM STi which has forged pistons. These expand a lot more than cast pistons, which means that when cold, the piston-to-wall clearance is large. Thank you (and Seat Safety) for your responses, this helps clear stuff up. I guess what throws me off is that I only started noticing this sound recently, but I did change to 5w40 motul synthetic (local shop advised me to, if anyone reading this has information which doesn't support running 5w40 in an EJ20K please let me know) which might be transmitting more sound than whatever was in there before.
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May 23, 2013 23:49
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Soarer posted:Hah! I went to the dealership last weekend and put down on a 2013 satin white pearl STi hatch, which also happened to be in transit. Can't wait til it gets here. My girlfriend has the base Impreza and even that is a fun car to drive.  I am not usually a fan of white, but I just fell in love with the way it looked on this car. I have the same affection for S2000s in white. Sadly mine is going to get here the day before I go out of town for work for a week. Gonna kill me waiting yet another week while it sits all alone in my garage.
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May 24, 2013 00:58
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've seen guys use the 9-2X roof mouldings to do a roof rail delete but I can't for the life of me figure out how it would work on your car based on this picture: No, they're not, I'm really puzzled where those roof rails came from! They are not from similar era Legacies either. Could it be a sedan accessory? I've only had wagons / a Forester...
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May 24, 2013 01:55
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Aflicted posted:
At least you know when yours will get there. I don't have any idea yet. Just waiting around. The white on these cars is really nice. Again my girlfriends is white also. I've never been a huge fan, own/owned red/silver cars mostly, but I think it fits the best. I've really liked the blue but I think it goes better with the 2005ish STis. Also there were other STis available in the area, but no white ones to be found anywhere. Mostly black/gray/silver.
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May 24, 2013 01:56
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I was changing my wheels over to my ZIIs in preparation for my autocross on Sunday and I decided to check my transmission drain plug and let some fluid out since the tranny seemed to be making some noise and it was a little overfull. That's when this guy and some of his little friends popped out.  I took it around the block after I put the wheels on and it sounded...okay. It makes a faint noise going from 2nd to 3rd, and by faint I mean only I would notice it, with the radio off, sometimes. Regardless, it's time to start shopping around, but how long do you think I have before it gives up? I'm pretty gentle on it, I rev-match and double clutch a lot (I think this is from teaching my gf how to drive stick but I'm not gonna tell her that).
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May 24, 2013 02:34
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Soarer posted:At least you know when yours will get there. I don't have any idea yet. Just waiting around. The white on these cars is really nice. Again my girlfriends is white also. I've never been a huge fan, own/owned red/silver cars mostly, but I think it fits the best. I've really liked the blue but I think it goes better with the 2005ish STis. Also there were other STis available in the area, but no white ones to be found anywhere. Mostly black/gray/silver. I found out which dealer the one I was getting was going to. I then called and inquired about incoming WRX hatchbacks and they told me when they were getting it in. The dealer I got from told me it would take about a day to get it from them once it was delivered.
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May 24, 2013 02:40
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Neptr posted:I was changing my wheels over to my ZIIs in preparation for my autocross on Sunday and I decided to check my transmission drain plug and let some fluid out since the tranny seemed to be making some noise and it was a little overfull. That's when this guy and some of his little friends popped out. I had a destroyed input shaft bearing (transmission is supposed to be getting torn down in a few weeks) and it gave me and the previous owner 100,000 km of screaming agony before I got fed up with it and replaced it. Good choice on colour. I want one to replace my beater Subaru.
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May 24, 2013 02:49
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Slow is Fast posted:Looks good. Now all you need is a rear spoiler I have one! But it's from a silver car, whereas mine is obviously...not. I'm going to have to go to a parts store and figure out how to mount it as close to the factory method as possible, because you can't get just the hardware from Subaru. Oh, another thing I forgot - what I thought would be nuts/bolts under the rubber endcaps of the roof rack rails (that I had to remove, to slide the towers out) ended up just being self-tapping screws with some kind of weird gray rubber gunk on the tips (to stop them backing out? or water getting down the threads? I don't know - either way, not inspiring  ). I definitely want to do the spoiler 'properly'!.
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May 24, 2013 08:49
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PO stripped some of the terrible plastic screws which hold all the glovebox bits together which hides the cabin filter. Is there a trick to dealing with those besides just cutting them out and can you replace them with metal?
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May 24, 2013 22:49
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Are newer WRX'es known to get stuff caught in the brakes or other moving parts? I keep hearing this *really* slight scraping sound on mine ( 2000 miles) as if something trash or something is in a brake caliper, but the weird part is it doesn't change when the brakes are applied and it changes in frequency with speed. I looked as best I could underneath and didn't see anything in a caliper or wrapped around a half shaft. I do live on a white Florida sand dirt road. Any ideas?
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May 24, 2013 23:08
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I had a pebble trapped between the brake rotor and the dust cover on my WRX for awhile. It was god awful until it finally shook free.
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May 24, 2013 23:29
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Sten Freak posted:PO stripped some of the terrible plastic screws which hold all the glovebox bits together which hides the cabin filter. Is there a trick to dealing with those besides just cutting them out and can you replace them with metal? You can cut them out and get new ones from a subaru dealer. If you can't get at them properly to cut them you can use a dremel cutting wheel or similar to make a straight cut/groove across the center of the head and use a flathead to unscrew them. If you're really stuck you could heat up an old narrow chisel with a lighter and press it firmly into the head to melt in a bit and could try backing it out that way.
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May 25, 2013 04:35
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VelociBacon posted:You can cut them out and get new ones from a subaru dealer. If you can't get at them properly to cut them you can use a dremel cutting wheel or similar to make a straight cut/groove across the center of the head and use a flathead to unscrew them. If you're really stuck you could heat up an old narrow chisel with a lighter and press it firmly into the head to melt in a bit and could try backing it out that way.
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May 25, 2013 05:13
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OK here's my opinion on these screws. The best way to get them out is to just use a very small precision type flathead screwdriver and pry them out. They basically do not back out when turned, at least my didn't. Bought this 2008 Legacy with 79K on it. Owned by a college aged female. It's definitely been changed because the screws were messed up but I'd be willing to be it's been a lonnnnng while. 
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May 25, 2013 20:04
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Sten Freak posted:OK here's my opinion on these screws. The best way to get them out is to just use a very small precision type flathead screwdriver and pry them out. They basically do not back out when turned, at least my didn't. I, uh, should check mine...
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May 25, 2013 20:22
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BRB checking all air filters.
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May 25, 2013 23:35
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Sten Freak posted:OK here's my opinion on these screws. The best way to get them out is to just use a very small precision type flathead screwdriver and pry them out. They basically do not back out when turned, at least my didn't. Here's what is worse. On 2005 legacies, a cabin air filter was an option. An option my po didn't tick. So I've been breathing that poo poo for years.
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May 26, 2013 03:47
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nm posted:Here's what is worse. On 2005 legacies, a cabin air filter was an option. An option my po didn't tick. So I've been breathing that poo poo for years. At least not all at once like that.
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May 26, 2013 07:43
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Mice also love to build nests in the housing and eat the filter media. Go ahead, ask how I know. 
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May 26, 2013 13:25
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My car has the sticker on the driver's side jamb, so I should probably check it. Doubt it's been changed since 2006 (when Subaru installed it on an assembly line).
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May 26, 2013 14:05
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I just don't look. The less I know the better.
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May 26, 2013 14:34
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Mine was so bad, the filter had been eaten through and there was mouse poop in the evaporator core
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May 26, 2013 17:55
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Welp, the 'uprated sti interooler' turned out not to be. Not even STI actually, just a bog standard WRX intercooler. Dude has at least apologised – apparently that's how it was advertised to him – and I'm returning it. Now, £80 will get me equal length headers with catless uppipe or STI intake with deleted tgv ... which do I go for?
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May 27, 2013 00:12
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DJ Commie posted:Mine was so bad, the filter had been eaten through and there was mouse poop in the evaporator core You're talking about the air intake for the engine right not the cabin air filter? (this is probably a dumb question)
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May 27, 2013 01:58
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Totally TWISTED posted:You're talking about the air intake for the engine right not the cabin air filter? (this is probably a dumb question) If he's talking about the evap core, then it is the cabin filter.
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May 27, 2013 16:06
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My Outback Sport didn't have a cabin air filter, but it did have a plastic slot in the dashboard that you could Dremel out and insert one from a different Subaru. Maybe it's a Cali package or just wasn't available in my year.
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May 27, 2013 16:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:My Outback Sport didn't have a cabin air filter, but it did have a plastic slot in the dashboard that you could Dremel out and insert one from a different Subaru. Maybe it's a Cali package or just wasn't available in my year. If airflow initially was bypassed somewhere else how did you get it to go through the filter once you dremeled out the panel? Edit: VVVV ah, gotcha. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 16:26 on May 27, 2013 |
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May 27, 2013 16:19
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VelociBacon posted:If airflow initially was bypassed somewhere else how did you get it to go through the filter once you dremeled out the panel? Air still flows through, but you grind out the side slot for insertion the filter which is normally a removable panel
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May 27, 2013 16:24
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Totally TWISTED posted:You're talking about the air intake for the engine right not the cabin air filter? (this is probably a dumb question) Nope, HVAC. I have a 2.2L SOHC California OBS with the stock intake, it'd be admirable for a mouse to make it to the air filter through that intake.
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May 27, 2013 17:44
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On the 2005 Legacies with cabin air filters, they forgot to put a slot in to change it. They then issued a TSB to put a slot in. The slot was in the wrong place. Even in my VW, the cabin air filter was easy.
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May 27, 2013 18:00
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Yeah I don't think I was actually thinking when I asked that question. I should really buy a flannel shirt with how much I'm in this thread.
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May 27, 2013 18:07
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Looks like my parents are joining the Subaru army. They purchased a new Crosstrek Premium over the weekend. They were looking for something to replace their 2003 Pontiac Vibe and this is the closest thing on the market right now. I probably won't get to check out the car until this weekend.
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May 28, 2013 16:02
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I was talking to someone yesterday and they sang the praises of flat foot shifting, even in a WRX. I drive a 2011 WRX and flat foot shifting has ALWAYS seemed like a bad idea, despite the maintained boost while shifting. Please correct me if I am wrong in this.
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May 28, 2013 23:34
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Isn't one of our resident Subaru guru's from Alberta? If so, could you give me a recommendation on a good mechanic to work on my Forester in the Edmonton area (preferably the west side or spruce/stony)? Price is important but I want my car to still run afterwards.
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May 28, 2013 23:52
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Danger Doug posted:I was talking to someone yesterday and they sang the praises of flat foot shifting, even in a WRX. I drive a 2011 WRX and flat foot shifting has ALWAYS seemed like a bad idea, despite the maintained boost while shifting. Please correct me if I am wrong in this. As in, keeping the accelerator pushed in while shifting? Not a good idea--it's going to cause a lot of wear and tear on your drivetrain. I think (hope) most people that talk about flat-footed shifting in WRXs are using an ECU tune that essentially acts as a rev limiter in between shifts. Basically, you preset an RPM for the engine to fall to while you have the pedal floored the entire time. This has the advantage of automatically rev limiting upshifts while doing a redline WOT pull, and you're also saving some time by keeping the pedal mashed in the entire time. Since you're cutting fuel to achieve the rev limit I'm not sure if you're actually maintaining boost. il serpente cosmico fucked around with this message at 00:15 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 00:00
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