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Maniaman posted:I recently changed our kitchen faucet (the old one was leaking and i hated it anyway), and when you turn the new one full blast on you get what I assume is some sort of water hammer or sputter for a few seconds that will eventually go away. The old faucet didn't do this, and I don't know how I could be getting air in the lines. No other fixtures do this. I don't know if it's something I should be concerned about or if I should just deal with it. Did that only happen once, or does it keep happening?
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May 3, 2013 18:46
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| # ? May 19, 2024 11:47 |
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It happens every time we turn the faucet on.
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May 5, 2013 18:10
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Who wants to take a guess at how hosed my house is? Apparently there's a leak in my house, somewhere... Most the plumbing runs under the master bedroom. When I step in the closet in the master bedroom, the carpet gets wet and there's a foot shaped water stain growing very shortly after. I'm guessing I've got a gently caress off huge leak and some pretty good water damage for the majority of my house.
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May 8, 2013 01:23
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Grem posted:Who wants to take a guess at how hosed my house is? Apparently there's a leak in my house, somewhere... Is the floor directly on a concrete pad or do you have a crawl space or basement?
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May 8, 2013 02:26
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I have a basement.
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May 8, 2013 02:59
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What plumbing is in the walls for that closet? Does this master bedroom closet happen to butt up to the master bathroom?
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May 8, 2013 03:13
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Yea, the closet is right up against the master bath. The plumbing goes under the closet and then down to the sewer.
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May 8, 2013 03:34
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The general DIY thread suggested I take this here, so here goes. I have a Buderus GC124 II boiler that occasionally gets it in it's head that it's going to lockout for no apparent reason. It was installed in late 2011 and does this maybe once a month during the heating season. I have this guide that came with it: http://www.buderus.us/files/201301031741530.GC124II_Installation-Service_Instructions_en_6720804440_04_11.2012.pdf and someone mentioned in the other thread that it uses flame rectification, so it's a possible thermocouple issue. I just want to stop coming home to a cold house  Any suggestions of what to check?
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May 8, 2013 21:06
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Grem posted:Yea, the closet is right up against the master bath. The plumbing goes under the closet and then down to the sewer. So what's directly on the other side of that wall? A sink, tub/shower or toilet? Are their any drains or supply lines in that wall?
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May 8, 2013 21:35
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Dragyn posted:The general DIY thread suggested I take this here, so here goes. It could be a number of things, if the flame sensor isnt in the write position it could error. If the boiler waspiped wrong it could error out. I'd find a trusted tech to come out for a service call. Also it most likely will give you an error code if you find out how to find it in the boiler.
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May 10, 2013 14:06
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It could be a number of things, if the flame sensor isnt in the write position it could error. If the boiler waspiped wrong it could error out. I'd find a trusted tech to come out for a service call. Also it most likely will give you an error code if you find out how to find it in the boiler. Thanks. I might have a plumber coming out to install another radiator (why they decided one of the bedrooms didn't need heat, is beyond me). I'll ask him. I think I've asked here before regarding getting a bathtub in a small bathroom. I've abandoned that idea and decided to just shoot for a good quality shower kit. I've heard good things about the Kerdi ones that Holmes uses, but they don't seem to have much variety in size. Are they worth the money?
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May 17, 2013 17:17
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Is a dedicated trap to the disposal code now? I just had to replace mine and I ignored the dedicated trap, even though the instructions wanted it. Basically I wanted to keep the storage space by feeding the disposal waste line right above the trap from the other sink. I kinda feel bad about ignoring that part of the instructions, but oh well.
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May 18, 2013 00:26
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I'd really like to get a hose spigot out to my shed, about 200' from my house. However, I don't want to cut up a big trench in the lawn. I know they have a machine that basically acts like a big 18" knife blade that feeds electrical cable down the back of the blade and into the ground as it goes, leaving just a little strip where the grass was marginally disturbed, do they have any sort of similar device for laying underground hose? Or is that basically a non-option, because it'd have to be rigid pipe so it doesn't collapse? Just curious what my options are, with the goal of minimal disturbance to my precious lawn.
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May 20, 2013 15:37
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I am not a plumber. I am pretty sure you can ditch witch pex to get water there. I watched a guy run one for a lawn sprinkler system. I'm just not sure how deep it needs to be buried.
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May 20, 2013 16:50
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jackyl posted:Is a dedicated trap to the disposal code now? I just had to replace mine and I ignored the dedicated trap, even though the instructions wanted it. Basically I wanted to keep the storage space by feeding the disposal waste line right above the trap from the other sink. I kinda feel bad about ignoring that part of the instructions, but oh well. In washington no but it's hard to say what is code where you live. Bad Munki posted:I'd really like to get a hose spigot out to my shed, about 200' from my house. However, I don't want to cut up a big trench in the lawn. I know they have a machine that basically acts like a big 18" knife blade that feeds electrical cable down the back of the blade and into the ground as it goes, leaving just a little strip where the grass was marginally disturbed, do they have any sort of similar device for laying underground hose? Or is that basically a non-option, because it'd have to be rigid pipe so it doesn't collapse? depends on how cold it gets where you live. You have to be 12 inches below frost level. In Washington/idaho its 4 feet but up in Alaksa it over 9 I believe. If you blew the line out every year you could do a shallow trench.
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May 20, 2013 17:30
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Erie, PA. I don't mind clearing the line each year, although obviously it'd be nicer to not have to.
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May 20, 2013 18:05
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Bad Munki posted:I'd really like to get a hose spigot out to my shed, about 200' from my house. However, I don't want to cut up a big trench in the lawn. I know they have a machine that basically acts like a big 18" knife blade that feeds electrical cable down the back of the blade and into the ground as it goes, leaving just a little strip where the grass was marginally disturbed, do they have any sort of similar device for laying underground hose? Or is that basically a non-option, because it'd have to be rigid pipe so it doesn't collapse? At 200 feet you're looking at having to tear it up anyway. If it were shorter, you could cut out the sod chunks along the way by hand with a flat tipped shovel, then put them back in place once you're done and water them until they reestablish roots.
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May 21, 2013 05:34
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I have a bathtub with separate hot and cold faucets. When I turn the cold water on, water drips from the shower head. This only happens with the cold water; if I turn on only the hot water, no water drips. Ay ideas?
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May 21, 2013 14:17
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Baruch Obamawitz posted:I have a bathtub with separate hot and cold faucets. When I turn the cold water on, water drips from the shower head. This only happens with the cold water; if I turn on only the hot water, no water drips. Ay ideas? 3 handle or stopper on the tub faucet?
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May 21, 2013 16:07
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:3 handle or stopper on the tub faucet? Stopper
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May 22, 2013 03:53
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/reposted this here on suggestion of Orgophlax Hey All My water heater has started to leak and I'd like to replace it before it explodes all over my basement. I'd like to go to a tankless heater but I've read and heard so many different things about them that I'm not sure what to think and/or what brand to get. Do any of you have tankless natural gas systems installed? what kind? would you recommend it? anything to look out for? For those of you who are pros and have installed/serviced these systems, which seem to have fewest problems? Other general questions about what I'm considering: I'm thinking of getting a condensing version. They're more expensive up-front but they're more efficient and the venting is much simpler and cheaper. Does anyone know if I can vent this close to my electric panel & service line? My boiler is from the 1960's and can't have a ton more life left in it. Can I get a bigger unit and rip out the boiler as well? anything to look out for if I decide to do this? Thanks in advance
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May 22, 2013 21:31
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LaserKatz posted:Do any of you have tankless natural gas systems installed? quote:would you recommend it? quote:anything to look out for? quote:For those of you who are pros and have installed/serviced these systems, which seem to have fewest problems? quote:Other general questions about what I'm considering: quote:My boiler is from the 1960's and can't have a ton more life left in it. Can I get a bigger unit and rip out the boiler as well?  In the case of really old boilers just about anything and everything needs to be looked at, and I mean everything. Without a description of the heating system and/or pics it is impossible to say. Every boiler setup is different and requires a serious look at from a qualified installer.
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May 22, 2013 23:08
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LaserKatz posted:/reposted this here on suggestion of Orgophlax Check with your gas company, they may offer great rebates. My gas co. is offering up to $300 for a HE 40gal tank. With price around $500 for a unit, this is a pretty killer deal. Few are offering tankless rebates that big, but may offset the cost some. Also note that you may be able to size down your unit as recovery is faster in modern units.
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May 23, 2013 01:07
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Check with your gas company, they may offer great rebates. My gas co. is offering up to $300 for a HE 40gal tank. With price around $500 for a unit, this is a pretty killer deal. Few are offering tankless rebates that big, but may offset the cost some. Also note that you may be able to size down your unit as recovery is faster in modern units. Good thought, thanks. With a decent rebate it makes the cost difference smaller and almost a nobrainer to go tankless.
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May 23, 2013 15:17
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Amoxicilina posted:I don't have one in my own home, but I've installed many. Thanks very much for the response. I may not be around for 10 yrs for it to pay for itself but I think it will certainly help resale. quote:I haven't installed a rinnai in years and we hated em....I've installed many ao smith, triangle tube and navien models over the years with next to no problems save for one or two outliners. On a whole, I'd say we've had more problems with traditional tank heaters. quote:How close? I don't see a pic or anything. I live in an ~850 sqft row home and my mechanicals are on one side of the house. The service line comes in at one corner and the panel is about 1-2' in from the corner along the side wall. There's a window maybe 1' from the corner along the front wall. I'd like to avoid having to vent through the window but I realize that it may not be possible. If I can go close to the electric then both the vent on the outside and the pipes containing the exhaust would be within 1' of the panel and service line. quote:A bigger unit? I don't think anything gets bigger than 1960s boilers. That's fair. I'm likely going to tackle this myself. Since I thought that since the boiler can't have a ton more life left I could replace it with a larger tankless unit and just have one pulling double duty, but it sounds like this is going to be more complicated and that I can wait on it.
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May 23, 2013 15:29
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Just moved into a late 70s single-wide with plumbing modified by people who had no idea what they're doing. The water pressure starts at what I would consider decent, then fades to a trickle after about 15 seconds or so. Hot and cold both do it, in all fixtures in the house. Should I be looking at adjusting or replacing the pressure regulator? It's a big truncated cone of rust with a rounded-off rusty bolt held in place by a rounded off rusted jam nut. But that's the outside; the inside should be fine, right? If it's not the regulator, where can I look?
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May 27, 2013 19:41
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Just moved into a late 70s single-wide with plumbing modified by people who had no idea what they're doing. This sounds like it could be a pressure tank. Are you on a well?
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May 28, 2013 13:17
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My upstairs bathroom sink is draining increasingly slowly. (It fills up before the water gets hot!) Tried using a plunger, tried taking out and cleaning the U-bend, but the problem persists. I assume it's a hair blockage further down the pipes. Don't suppose there's any DIY tips that might solve this? (Would this question belong more in the Fix It Fast thread? I wasn't sure.)
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May 28, 2013 21:25
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This sounds like it could be a pressure tank. Are you on a well? Turns out it was a leak in a fitting. It would only drip very slowly at full pressure, but much faster when pressure started to drop, eventually just spraying out. 85-200lbs of water-soaked fiberglass insulation and one huge hot mud puddle later, the leak was found and fixed. All pressures are fine. I'm not a big fan of sharkbite fittings on PEX anymore. I've already had two visibly fail under pressure for no obvious reason, and the whole re-plumbing of this place was done with them. Feels like a time bomb.
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May 28, 2013 23:49
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VagueRant posted:I assume it's a hair blockage further down the pipes. Did you clean out the stopper? Hair can get caught there too. If that's clean, then you probably have a clog further down the drain and it's time to get a snake.
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May 29, 2013 02:02
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Turns out it was a leak in a fitting. It would only drip very slowly at full pressure, but much faster when pressure started to drop, eventually just spraying out. I only use them if I have to, If you can't turn the water off completely then I use them. Though I've never had one blow off. I wonder if they pushed them on all the way. I always sand and put lube on the pipe or the O rings can leak.
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May 29, 2013 03:37
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I only use them if I have to, If you can't turn the water off completely then I use them. Though I've never had one blow off. I wonder if they pushed them on all the way. I always sand and put lube on the pipe or the O rings can leak. The plumbing in this place is approximately what would happen if, for every joint or application, you were to grab a completely random stranger off the street, showed them two ends of pipe, then asked them what they needed to finish. Crazy mix of fittings, pipe types, valve styles, penetration locations, etc. And no straps, of any kind, anywhere, on anything.
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May 29, 2013 13:02
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The plumbing in this place is approximately what would happen if, for every joint or application, you were to grab a completely random stranger off the street, showed them two ends of pipe, then asked them what they needed to finish. Crazy mix of fittings, pipe types, valve styles, penetration locations, etc. Ya thats a shame but it happens when people want to DIY and never ask for help.
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May 29, 2013 14:23
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My mother in law currently has a leaky outside spigot (Silcock?) that her fiance swears is sweated on and can't get unscrewed. I"ts my experience that most of them get twisted on to a threaded end. Should we give it a shot with 2 pipe wrenches? Is there anywhere that sells rebuild kits so I can replace the seals inside the thing instead of having to cut and sweat? How terrible would it be to run a sharkbite connection for this? (the copper pipe runs pretty close to the wood floor and I really don't feel comfortable using my novice sweating skills on it.. if I need to what are some tips? stick some metal up there and maybe a wet towel between the floor and metal to protect the wood from my terrible pipe fitting skills.
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Jun 3, 2013 03:26
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Do NOT just twist it off with a pipe wrench - they very well could be soldered and inaccessible; mine are (were). If you know the brand then finding a rebuild kit is easy, if you don't the you can do what I did and cobble one together out of various parts and cut rubber sheeting .
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Jun 3, 2013 05:23
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tater_salad posted:My mother in law currently has a leaky outside spigot (Silcock?) that her fiance swears is sweated on and can't get unscrewed. I"ts my experience that most of them get twisted on to a threaded end. In my experience they are a pain in the rear end to rebuild. A new one is only $25 or so. They may be soldered on but its a tough call . Even though the woods close to it here must be another place that you can cut it at to solder in an open area. care to send a picture of the hosebib where it may be soldered. And a larger picture of the area you would be working in.
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Jun 3, 2013 22:39
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I'm not sure if this is really a plumbing question, let me know if I should take it to the general DIY thread. I am a brand new homeowner. My new home did not come with a dryer or washer, but it did come with the hookups. I'm buying a washer and gas dryer. After talking to home depot ($260 installation) and talking to a local plumber ($450 installation) I'm now just considering installing the gas dryer myself because those prices seem pretty crazy to me. Is this a reasonable thing to do for someone who has no experience in this area?
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Jun 4, 2013 22:33
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Grifter posted:I'm not sure if this is really a plumbing question, let me know if I should take it to the general DIY thread. I am a brand new homeowner. My new home did not come with a dryer or washer, but it did come with the hookups. I'm buying a washer and gas dryer. After talking to home depot ($260 installation) and talking to a local plumber ($450 installation) I'm now just considering installing the gas dryer myself because those prices seem pretty crazy to me. Is this a reasonable thing to do for someone who has no experience in this area? Lowe's hooked up the washer in my last house for free. Edit - and a screwdriver and new dryer vent duct.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:33
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:In my experience they are a pain in the rear end to rebuild. A new one is only $25 or so. They may be soldered on but its a tough call . Even though the woods close to it here must be another place that you can cut it at to solder in an open area. care to send a picture of the hosebib where it may be soldered. And a larger picture of the area you would be working in. I wont be over there till the day I'm working on it. I'll have to see if I am lucky enough for it to run down the back wall but I think it runs from one side of the basement to the other up in the rafters.
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Jun 5, 2013 02:54
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Grifter posted:I'm not sure if this is really a plumbing question, let me know if I should take it to the general DIY thread. I am a brand new homeowner. My new home did not come with a dryer or washer, but it did come with the hookups. I'm buying a washer and gas dryer. After talking to home depot ($260 installation) and talking to a local plumber ($450 installation) I'm now just considering installing the gas dryer myself because those prices seem pretty crazy to me. Is this a reasonable thing to do for someone who has no experience in this area? Just to be clear, you have an existing gas hookup, right? I think most homes just have an electric dryer hookup, so perhaps they think they are installing a gas line. I could see the prices being that high if they are running a gas line but they are crazy if you have an existing hookup ntd fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 12:33
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