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The best thing about the mx track to me is that if your bike breaks down you don't have to push it 5 miles.
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May 15, 2013 23:18
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clutchpuck posted:
Yeah, definitely. Hell I notice something like that on the 450. It's not going to like handicap you or anything but there will be a noticeable sluggish quality when jumping to the 520. Why do you think you need a beefier chain and sprocket? Just want it to last longer or what?
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May 15, 2013 23:45
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Ramsus posted:The best thing about the mx track to me is that if your bike breaks down you don't have to push it 5 miles. Ride with bros who have a tow strap  Actually, I probably need to add a tow strap to my stuff. Currently have tail bag and front fender bag that I haven't fitted up yet for tubes and irons.
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May 16, 2013 00:00
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n8r posted:Color me dense but how is a shattered kneecap being saved by kneeguards? Though the stress was enough to shatter the kneecap one can see by the outline marks on my leg that had I not been wearing a knee guard a broken femur and tibfib was possible.
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May 16, 2013 01:20
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For woods riding elbow pads I like my sixsixone armor suit thing. The elbow pads are gouged up pretty good and I've never had more than a minor bruise on my elbow. I really need to get back in the woods, other than the trials bike around the house it's been at least a year.
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May 16, 2013 12:57
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VTNewb posted:Though the stress was enough to shatter the kneecap one can see by the outline marks on my leg that had I not been wearing a knee guard a broken femur and tibfib was possible. I would have rather broken either bone than shattering a kneecap.
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May 16, 2013 14:04
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Yes but he probably would have broken the bones in addition to a worse knee injury. Damage control.
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May 16, 2013 14:33
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HondaRider271 posted:Yeah, definitely. Hell I notice something like that on the 450. It's not going to like handicap you or anything but there will be a noticeable sluggish quality when jumping to the 520. Why do you think you need a beefier chain and sprocket? Just want it to last longer or what? Yeah, I replaced my chain and sprockets when I first got the bike and I've maybe put 100 miles on it since then. It being a peaky old 175 2stroke, I am not real gentle with it and the roller chain wore out fast. The XL175 I believe is running a 520 roller. I was thinking of matching it and gearing down.
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May 16, 2013 18:07
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Oh ya I would definitely run 520 on a 175 two smoker, without question. Didn't realize that was a two stroke. And yeah, knock off 2 teeth on the rear and that should solve your peaky issues. I always keep the counter stock because it dramatically increases chain wear to run different sizes.
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May 16, 2013 20:07
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My plan is to shorten it by adding a couple teeth to the rear so I get a more useful 2nd gear for how I use it. My pace on trails with the stock gearing is generally somewhere between the top of 1st and lugging 2nd. I figure if I shorten it I can bang up to 2 a little earlier and be able to ride slower in that gear and maybe get more oomph out of the bike. I don't ever need it to do 55mph like it's currently geared to accommodate.
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May 16, 2013 20:44
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clutchpuck posted:My plan is to shorten it by adding a couple teeth to the rear so I get a more useful 2nd gear for how I use it. My pace on trails with the stock gearing is generally somewhere between the top of 1st and lugging 2nd. I figure if I shorten it I can bang up to 2 a little earlier and be able to ride slower in that gear and maybe get more oomph out of the bike. That's a good idea, I always gear my bike so that first gear is essentially useless aside from putting around the pits. Have you done any mods to the bike to give a bit more on the low end? Changing your reed valve and making sure your intake is unrestricted (like with a snorkel or stock filter with too much screen) are cheap and easy mods to give it more low end. Not sure what year it is so things like exhaust might be hard to find if it's older, but you can mill out the cylinder to give it more compression (more punch) and replace the carb with one that has a higher flow. You can also use a higher compression piston with a bore but that will require using expensive race fuel which is probably not necessary. Also, I was thinking about your chain/sprocket situation and it occurred to me that it may have worn out so fast because it wasn't adjusted properly. They'll wear out really fast if it's too tight especially, that would also explain the unusual roller wear. Make sure you have about 1-1/2" of slack. So basically press down on the chain so its on top of your swingarm, then pull up on it and measure that variance. If it's too loose it'll slap a lot which wears out your rollers and chain guide, and if it's too tight it'll ride funky (it'll feel sort of restricted), wear out your sprocket & guide/roller and also stretch your chain excessively.
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May 17, 2013 02:20
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sup, can you hold this for a second... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-vRlFyAblQ
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May 17, 2013 14:48
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HondaRider271 posted:Also, I was thinking about your chain/sprocket situation and it occurred to me that it may have worn out so fast because it wasn't adjusted properly. I adjusted it every time I went out; ratchet strapped the swingarm to compress the shocks and adjusted based on the rear sprocket at its apoapsis. Mostly I think it's just an underbuilt chain for the abuse it gets - all its miles are in the woods. As far as mods go, it's all stock from 1976 in EPA street legal trim. I am sure it could use a top-end refresh, the piston slaps around something fierce but it starts on the 2nd kick every time and all I have to do is put oil and spark plugs in it. When it finally blows up and I have to work on it, I might get a new MX175-spec carb for it - they're about as expensive as a rebuild kit for the stock carb - and have my pipe made into an expansion chamber. That's supposed to give it a good boost.
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May 17, 2013 17:15
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Word, that all sounds like a plan to me. However, unless I'm confused on what you're saying it seems unnecessary to ratchet your swingarm up, if you just give the chain 1-1 1/2" of slack while the shock is uncompressed on the stand it will satisfy any tightness it may experience during suspension travel. Just to save a few minutes and effort. But if you've got a good system down then by all means stick to it I'm gonna be unable to ride this weekend due to wisdom teeth extraction  I guess I'll spend the weekend watching racing. If anybody didn't know the entire Outdoor National series will be broadcast live on webcast. Hangtown is this Saturday http://www.allisports.com/motocross/live
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May 17, 2013 18:44
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Silver posted:sup, can you hold this for a second... Haha, what a douchebag.
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May 17, 2013 20:03
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More knee boom 
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May 21, 2013 18:08
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Might be a little late to ask, but was this a bad idea?  Picked up a 2006 525 EXC this weekend to compliment my fantastic 990 streetbike. I made it about 65 pages into this thread before I figured it might be a really bad (good idea). Paid $2700, it has 350hrs/5500 miles. Looking to rip around in a few parks around the Seattle area this summer and then maybe do some longer trips. First Impression: Wheelie city. This thing is NOT like my DRZ400 was. And after taking an hour to change the oil, I definitely realize its not my DRZ. Here are my takeaways from that megathread: -Fan kit: Necessary -Oil Cooler / Cush Hub: Only needed for extended highway riding -Steering Damper: Good idea but not necessary Maintenance Plan: Oil (done) Valves/Plug/Coolant (to be done tonight) Repack exhaust Make it streetlegalish (its plated already) Freshen forks, possibly the shock as well, might need a respring (I'm 200lb) In the spares box I found a bearing (new) which I identified as a camshaft bearing. I also found a piston ring compressor, and 2 old intake valves. I think it's safe to say that the engine has been apart and serviced? Is there a way to tell if I have new SS valves with just the cover off? When checking the piston/cyl, would they always install new rings? Can't wait to rip this thing through the woods! 
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May 22, 2013 21:12
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Pretty sweet! I dunno how long your street legal equipment will last here in the pacific northwest woods though.
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May 22, 2013 23:56
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Check all bolts (engine bolts at least use torque wrench), grease up them axles and bearings, get a friend to help set the sag on shock, keep an eye on oil level when you ride to see how much it burns, lube up your cables, check brake pressure and bleed if necessary, true rims/tighten spokes if necessary (probably), I'm sure you just forgot to mention filter, clean carb, also wash that goddamn bike! Or maybe it just looks dirty cause the plastics are scratched to hell, hard to tell. Everyone doesn't install new rings especially if the rings don't look bad (though most people do), so I wouldn't make that assumption. You should be able to tell if the valves are SS by looking but if you don't know the difference between what SS/ti valves look like then you'll be sol! Only bad thing about that bike to me is I hated those shocks without linkage (I think that's the case anyway), as it makes it way to springy and schizophrenic in the rear. Otherwise probably a pretty good buy, maybe a little on the high side but that's KTMs for ya. Congrats on the bike
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May 23, 2013 00:52
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My 350 EXC-F came back to me finally after a lot of engine work with the parts cost coming out of my pocket. Not having the bike for a few weeks gave me plenty of time to browse the net for about $2000 in bike protection, tire, controls, desmog, efi tuneing, and exhaust goodies. Finally the bike is quick, but it can't turn. Time for suspension work I guess. This is my first KTM and I've heard they ride a lot different than the Japanese bikes due to the triple clamp offsets and head angles. Is this true? Right now the bike pushes and is super stable(a bad thing). Any setup advice to make this thing twitchier and less of a sand plow on corners? No amount of clicker adjustment wants to make the front dig on corners even with the sag setup correctly which makes me think I need to switch clamps to get that feel I have had on Hondas for years.
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May 28, 2013 01:55
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Want twitch? Drop the forks in the clamp by 2mm
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May 28, 2013 01:57
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Got a line on an 01 Honda CR250r for 1200 bucks, just needs some clutch work. Good deal? Any advice on a bike like this? New to the dirtbike scene and this will be my first REAL dirtbike, riding an old yamaha RT180 2 stroke at the moment.
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May 28, 2013 05:59
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What clutch work does it need? I have an entire engine in a box that has a good clutch. As with any other bike, take a general look over it. Check the suspension for leaks or slight oil rings around the forks, and shock piston rod. Check wheel bearings, linkage bearings (most likely the stock bearings are toast in the rear linkage), head stock bearings. Take the seat off if you can and see if the air filter is clean, or has been cleaned recently. If the owner will let you, take off the left side cover from the engine - stator / ignition cover - and grab the crank and try to move it up and down, left and right. Any play felt means the engine is not long for the world. Smell the fuel, does it smell old and stale, or fairly fresh? Has the owner been mixing it at a good ratio with a good oil, or using walmart chainsaw oil? How does it start and run? Do you have to hold the throttle to keep it running once it's warm? Check the oil and coolant level. Did coolant find it's way into the crank case and help cook the clutch? After all of that, how is the pipe, rads, bars, levers, cables. plastics, seat and whatever else you can lay eyes on. Dirtbikes are super simple things, but normally have the most wrong with them. Basically, if the engine runs alright, and the suspension isn't puking oil, you can't go wrong for $1000-$1200 If you do buy it, you are going to be so amazingly stoked!
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May 28, 2013 06:36
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DefaultPeanut posted:What clutch work does it need? I have an entire engine in a box that has a good clutch. Not too sure what it needs yet as far as the clutch goes. I haven't gotten a chance to get the bike started yet because they basically have it drained of fluids while it's sitting in their storage. Hopefully gunna get it going and see how it runs tomorrow or the next day if I can! The clutch just seems to not disengage properly, with the lever pulled all the way to the bar, it won't roll. But from what I understand this can be from not being used and the plates have seized together a bit? Shifts into neutral easy enough though which is a good sign I suppose. Next order of business would be to take the clutch apart and check for wear and bathe the plates correct? Heres the bike in question:  Gunna be freakin pumped if this deal works out in my favour!
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May 28, 2013 07:24
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That's no 2001! The plastics make it fall into the 1997 - 1999 years. Still an awesome bike as long as it doesn't have the single huge rad. for a stuck clutch, you can go about it a few ways! With the engine not running, put it in gear, pull the clutch in and rock it with vigor! Failing that, put the front tire against something and fire it up in neutral, hold the clutch in and bring up the revs and drop it into first! If you start doing a burnout, it was not meant to be! The funnest option is: Fire it up, run along side, pop it into first and go for a ride and work your way up to a decent speed. Pull the clutch in and quickly apply and release the rear brake, that might just unstick the plates. Failing that, pull it apart and then just put it back together, The frictions are already impregnated with oil, no need to do it again.
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May 28, 2013 07:41
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Audiologic posted:Not too sure what it needs yet as far as the clutch goes. I haven't gotten a chance to get the bike started yet because they basically have it drained of fluids while it's sitting in their storage. Hopefully gunna get it going and see how it runs tomorrow or the next day if I can! Yeah, that doesn't look like a 2001. 97's seemed super popular so I'd check the VIN. In either case, I wouldn't pay over 1000 for that running. With it not running and needing suspected clutchwork you might be better off passing unless they cut a deal. For 1500 you could get into something much newer that doesn't need rebuilt imo. No reason to spend 1200 on something that needs work when dirtbikes are pretty plentiful most everywhere. Like everyone else said do a good check on it if they'll allow it. If they won't and they get defensive the maintenance probably wasn't as good as it could be but this is pretty common in the dirtbike world. That pipe looks like it's had a few run-ins with some rocks as well. Definitely don't let the excitement of owning one pressure you into buying it if it's not a smart buy.
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May 28, 2013 15:19
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JP Money posted:Yeah, that doesn't look like a 2001. 97's seemed super popular so I'd check the VIN. In either case, I wouldn't pay over 1000 for that running. With it not running and needing suspected clutchwork you might be better off passing unless they cut a deal. For 1500 you could get into something much newer that doesn't need rebuilt imo. No reason to spend 1200 on something that needs work when dirtbikes are pretty plentiful most everywhere. Like everyone else said do a good check on it if they'll allow it. If they won't and they get defensive the maintenance probably wasn't as good as it could be but this is pretty common in the dirtbike world. That pipe looks like it's had a few run-ins with some rocks as well. Definitely don't let the excitement of owning one pressure you into buying it if it's not a smart buy. I agree with this post. When folks get their first dirt bike here in Vermont I always suggeqstna a Kawasaki kdx. They can be had for 1000 in mint condition and are truly bulletproof. Can get 30000 miles on a stock top end for trail riding. Of course of you're actually doing motocross this bikrmis not for you
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May 28, 2013 15:35
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VTNewb posted:I agree with this post. When folks get their first dirt bike here in Vermont I always suggeqstna a Kawasaki kdx. They can be had for 1000 in mint condition and are truly bulletproof. Can get 30000 miles on a stock top end for trail riding. Of course of you're actually doing motocross this bikrmis not for you The problem with where I live is that bikes come at a premium price. People are still selling old bikes here for savage amounts of money. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifieds/dirt-motorcycles Take a cruise through there and check out prices
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May 28, 2013 21:04
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Don't buy a first generation aluminum frame CR if you can help it. The motor is great and tunable using the many cylinders Honda used from 96 to 01, but it rides like limo in the woods and on the track. The subsequent frames really improved the handling and frame flex a ton. About a week ago I sold my immaculate 98 with a ton of creature comforts, upgraded suspension, stabilizer, new bottom end, and a spare cylinder for only $1300. Like JP Money said save $400 more and get a taken care of early 2000s 125/250 and run with that. I own 4 CR125/250/500AFs currently so when I talk you out of buying one that is saying something.
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May 28, 2013 23:08
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I had a 2001 (or maybe 2) KX250 that was legitimately awesome in the woods. I rode snotty mud / hard shale / coal dumps in PA and it had awesome midrange for a 250. Gear it down and throw on some barkbusters and it was still fun to jump around on and be an idiot. I definitely recommend at the minimum to get into the 2000's which you can do for not much more money. I'd avoid cheap 450 4 strokes for that little money unless the person has very, very good records and has literally dumped their net worth into it. Your only real options that far back are CRF450's (still one of my favorite looking bikes) or WR/YZ's. The WR's are probably the safest bet but if I recall the early Yamaha's had some problems with woodruff keys shearing off and causing some heartaches. Early CRF's had terrible valves. I think you're on the right track as early-mid 2000's 250 2-strokes were as good as they were ever gonna get before being phased out really. Nothing much changed in the motors as far as I remember during the 2000's as they all used the same formula and just made minor updates to suspension every year and added Exciting New Graphics! The 250 yamaha's when they went to aluminum frames were pretty sexy as well but may be outta your price range.
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May 28, 2013 23:22
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tehk posted:Don't buy a first generation aluminum frame CR if you can help it. The motor is great and tunable using the many cylinders Honda used from 96 to 01, but it rides like limo in the woods and on the track. The subsequent frames really improved the handling and frame flex a ton. About a week ago I sold my immaculate 98 with a ton of creature comforts, upgraded suspension, stabilizer, new bottom end, and a spare cylinder for only $1300. Like JP Money said save $400 more and get a taken care of early 2000s 125/250 and run with that. This be the truth. The 95/96 models with the steel frames were actually way better at handling, and I believe McGrath actually postponed using the aluminum frame throughout the '96 Supercross for exactly that reason. Also if you're just getting into MX/dirtbike ownership I would not get a "fixer-upper" as you'll probably get way in over your head and get flustered when you have a bike in 10,000 pieces on your garage floor and you have no idea how or what to do about it. HondaRider271 fucked around with this message at 06:13 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 00:13
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I wish I lived where you guys lived where dirt bikes apparently grow on trees! The market around here for used stuff is ridiculous, tons of bikes like late 80s XRs still going for well over a grand. edit: Also I've been told the bike runs, it just doesn't have any gas in the tank. I've been trying to get a hold of the owner but they're not answering their phone, I wanna bring over a jerry can and fire it up. Audiologic fucked around with this message at 00:18 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 00:16
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I have my left and right crank covers off to change out a crank and a balancer seal to fix oil migration in my '05 CRF450R. I can't get the clutch basket nut and the nut on the end of the crank off without a gear holder. So now I have to wait for one to come in the mail. I already broke a fin off the water pump impellor ($33 mistake) improvising on that one, so I'm going to wait for the proper tools. Also half a tooth is broken off of my balancer shaft, but I don't see any other damage. So I guess I'll keep running it since a new one is $190. Anyone have any experience with these bikes that might object to that? Edit: I'm going loving crazy, this things been down for about a month and I have a ride coming up the weekend after next.
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May 29, 2013 00:27
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So an update on that cr250 I was posting about, it runs and it runs real well actually!
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May 30, 2013 02:46
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Sorry to hear that. I wasn't joking about this bike handling like a boat. If you need chassis setup advice let me know. The motor really is a great thing though if it was built right during the last bottom end replacement. When you eventually replace the cylinder go with a 00' which is the best all around cylinder. Don't replate since the 97/98 is all mid to top end and is pretty unrealistic. Another mod you might want to look into if you are as new as you say is a Stealthy flywheel. I would go with the middle weight option as the heavy one matched with the boat handling makes the bike unable to steer with the rear. That motor is probably the narrowest powerband setup for that era so you can't lug it and have to pin it out of every corner. Assuming the bike has stock reeds purchases VForce reeds. When you change the exhaust go with a Gnarly expansion chamber which will widen out the power a ton. Beware the oil fill level screw it is often stripped on these cases. Lastly the stator side cases on these bikes are not the strongest so run a poly skid even if you are using it on a track only.
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May 30, 2013 03:52
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tehk posted:Sorry to hear that. I wasn't joking about this bike handling like a boat. If you need chassis setup advice let me know. The motor really is a great thing though if it was built right during the last bottom end replacement. Haha I appreciate all the advice! I still haven't bought the bike yet, I just sold my old one tonight to some girl just getting into it as well. I've been doing a hell of a lot of searching and I honestly can't find any better deals than this one at the moment. I actually haven't seen something like this pop up in my area in the last 3-4 months I've been looking. Is it suspension characteristics that make this bike ungainly? weight? combination of all?
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May 30, 2013 06:16
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Couple of riding vids. Super Sekkret riding area with bros. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRww27pYiNM Super Sekkret riding area, different day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmLfXWBKcFA I'm slow, but I have fun. 
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May 30, 2013 22:21
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VTNewb posted:More knee boom Welcome to the club!  Silver posted:Couple of riding vids. Your in ride commentary is awesome
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Jun 2, 2013 04:20
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Silver posted:Couple of riding vids. I love your commentary..."PUSSSYY"
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Jun 2, 2013 05:12
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Hah, thanks! From the hare scramble this weekend. Personal best with 2 laps done, last one was a sumbitch. Lots of mud, rocks, and roots. Good times! Probably wouldn't get so tired if I didn't fall over on the bike so much. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOr4n2hgVDA
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Jun 4, 2013 01:13
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