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plester1 posted:I believe they have a paint named "Grey Primer" that isn't actually a primer, but is color matched to the actual Grey Primer. Should have just called it Primer Grey.
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May 31, 2013 03:16
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Cross post from Oath Thread. I'm a little disappointed in him. You cant see it in the pic, I think, but after the wash, I tried to highlight his robes some, and it came out looking like poo. I almost wanted to throw him in the trash, and then did the Hawk Turquoise on the Bronze, and man, does that little bit of color help. I tried doing the lens thing on the scope but it also looks like poo. Oh well. Done is done. Rahotep75 posted:OATH COMPLETE!
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May 31, 2013 03:23
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I need to stop fruiting around and make duplicates/mods of my hirst molds. I'm guessing I want one of the products listed here: http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1135/index.html Thing is, I have no idea what's what. I want something as close to the original mold material as possible. Any ideas? I wonder if I emailed the hirst guy and just asked him what he used, he seems pretty chill about basically everything, he'd probably tell me exactly what the molds are made of.
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May 31, 2013 04:23
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Jcam posted:Making some more progress on my Pathfinder team. I'm sort of on the fence on the color scheme, but it's sort of working so far I think. Gimme some criticism. This is pretty identical to the scheme I used on my IG. On infantry it looks good, but I painted up a sentinel and it all kinda blurred together. I think you could make it work, either by adding some bold highlights, or breaking it up with another colour (almost pure white, maybe?) in some of the more common Tau markings.
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May 31, 2013 04:48
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Jcam posted:Making some more progress on my Pathfinder team. I'm sort of on the fence on the color scheme, but it's sort of working so far I think. Gimme some criticism. The scheme works, but the khaki needs another wash and highlighting to match the green. As for vehicles and Crisis Suits I'd go with the green as the main colour broken up with the khaki and ,as the poster above wrote, pick a spot colour. White is good, but red would also work. The yellow you have now isn't "offensive" enough.
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May 31, 2013 06:00
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I finished the Archangel today. I knew it was going to be rough, but I had no idea what I was in for. The level of detail on the model is incredible.  
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May 31, 2013 10:03
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Red Shoe posted:
Wow, that's really amazing, the shadows on the musculature are gorgeous - what is that model? Also, question - I'm trying to figure out a nice way of painting clean-looking wraithbone on my Eldar and Dark Eldar. I really like the look that this guy achieves, but I'm still new and not sure how to go about replicating it. Would starting from white with a sepia wash work, then highlighting in a very light bone colour maybe? 
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May 31, 2013 10:41
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PxiePip posted:Wow, that's really amazing, the shadows on the musculature are gorgeous - what is that model? It's made by Privateer Press for the Hordes game. Here's a link. That Eldar looks like an off-white (try Menoth White Highlight) shaded down to a light brown. You could probably wash sepia then highlight back to white for a similar effect. You will probably want to water the wash down some to make sure it doesn't get too dark in the crevasses. Red Shoe fucked around with this message at 10:51 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 10:48
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Buffalo squeeze posted:The scheme works, but the khaki needs another wash and highlighting to match the green. As for vehicles and Crisis Suits I'd go with the green as the main colour broken up with the khaki and ,as the poster above wrote, pick a spot colour. White is good, but red would also work. The yellow you have now isn't "offensive" enough. I think I follow what you're saying. That's the Shas'ui in front, his other should is painted a pure white, would that work for what you mean? I did it that way to show he was the sergeant or whatever. Should I use the white (or even red) more on the model, maybe more markings on the kneepads or helmet or something?
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May 31, 2013 14:24
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PxiePip posted:Wow, that's really amazing, the shadows on the musculature are gorgeous - what is that model? You could probably use a sepia wash. I would start with a base of something like Bleached Bone though, it's the right sort of off-white-ness. Reaper actually makes a really nice color triad consisting of Stained Ivory+Yellowed Bone+Creamy Ivory that works nicely as a shade/base/highlight, although for that I would add an additional highlight of pure white in there.
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May 31, 2013 14:31
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Bad Munki posted:I need to stop fruiting around and make duplicates/mods of my hirst molds. I'm guessing I want one of the products listed here: http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1135/index.html He's using silicon rubber molds. I think this kind will be the closest you're gonna get. If you want a fairly cheap starter kit, there's this one off Amazon that comes with pretty much everything you're gonna need. I plan to purchase that one in the next couple days. I've got ideas for my own bases (that I hope to sell!) and this seems like the best bang for my buck.
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May 31, 2013 14:33
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Thanks guys! I'll take a look at Reaper paints at Dark Sphere and do some experimenting.
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May 31, 2013 14:34
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Red Shoe posted:I finished the Archangel today. I knew it was going to be rough, but I had no idea what I was in for. The level of detail on the model is incredible.
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May 31, 2013 14:35
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Jcam posted:I think I follow what you're saying. That's the Shas'ui in front, his other should is painted a pure white, would that work for what you mean? I did it that way to show he was the sergeant or whatever. Should I use the white (or even red) more on the model, maybe more markings on the kneepads or helmet or something? A white shoulderpad works great (I use it on my IG, so I may be biased) and the markings you now have in yellow I'd do in red. This might make too many red details with the lenses, but you could do blue lenses instead. Honestly I think they look fine as is, it's just the khaki that looks a bit bland in the pictures.
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May 31, 2013 15:38
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Cross post of my completed plague marines. I have so much more to learn but I am happy with how they came out for babbys first non dip. I cant wait to see how I improve this year. Toward the end I definitly felt I was getting the hang of thining my paints better. At first it was either too thin or not thin enough but I think my wet palette will help a lot. Now its all about staying in the lines and edge highlighting better. Thanks Painting and modelling thread for the inspiration and techniques.TarDolphinorShark posted:
Here is a comparison shot from the 2011 Oath thread of some dipped Orks. I think I might actually be making progress! 
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May 31, 2013 16:09
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OATH COMPLETE
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Flipswitch posted:Well I just loving caved and ordered mine, thanks dickhead! (that paintjob is amazing dude, holy cow. How have you done the skin?) The skin is a basecoat of Frostbite washed with Skorne Red+Exile Blue, with a higher ratio of blue. It was then highlighted with a mix of Frostbite and the wash colors with increasing amounts of white added. Matte medium was used in all stages except the basecoat.
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May 31, 2013 17:52
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PxiePip posted:Thanks guys! I'll take a look at Reaper paints at Dark Sphere and do some experimenting. I'd suggest an oil wash. Use a base layer of Menoth White Highlight mixed with a warm colored brown. Wash acrylic sepia. Build up with increasing ratios of Menoth White Highlight to warm colored brown. Then wash with a very thinned down oil sepia. Basically bone is like white. Its time consuming to paint. If you want to do an army I suggest trying the whole entire method once and then figuring out what steps you can take out and still have acceptable quality. That or get an airbrush. e: Anybody tried white washing something? That might work great and be the fastest method: Basically you prime zenithal, base coat brown (highlighted zenithaly with a a lighter warm brown), then wash it white. I've done this with a sepia wash instead of the brown and always wanted to use it for something. Its easy and looks really good. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 18:27 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 18:20
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Red Shoe posted:The skin is a basecoat of Frostbite washed with Skorne Red+Exile Blue, with a higher ratio of blue. It was then highlighted with a mix of Frostbite and the wash colors with increasing amounts of white added. Matte medium was used in all stages except the basecoat.  Haven't been sure how to approach painting my Everblight skin and this has nailed it for me.
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May 31, 2013 19:03
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BULBASAUR posted:I'd suggest an oil wash. Use a base layer of Menoth White Highlight mixed with a warm colored brown. Wash acrylic sepia. Build up with increasing ratios of Menoth White Highlight to warm colored brown. Then wash with a very thinned down oil sepia. I actually do have an airbrush! So far I've only used it for basecoating though. Do you have a technique in mind for bone that would work well with one? Also, do you know of anywhere I can read about white washing? I've never heard of it and I'm having trouble finding what it means with regards to miniature painting. ivy fucked around with this message at 19:50 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 19:47
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Just as an FYI I'm selling off everything I paint on ebay under my SA username. When I've got more finished and sorted I'll start a proper Mart thread, but for now if someone wanted anything it would just be cool to sell a model to a goon. Get to see them used 
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May 31, 2013 21:24
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Cross posting some pictures of a test model I oathed. I think he turned out alright - I wasn't a fan of the paint scheme that my roommate chose but I think this looks good.   
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Jun 1, 2013 00:50
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Red Shoe posted:I finished the Archangel today. I knew it was going to be rough, but I had no idea what I was in for. The level of detail on the model is incredible. Awesome job, I need to figure out what colors my Legion will be.
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Jun 1, 2013 01:44
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Crossposting from the Oath Thread: Hey, it's two of the guys from Space Hulk!   (Only slightly irritated that I spent so much time fiddling with the fonts on the base decals, only for them to turn out looking like Times New Roman.) A few more images, poses, etc. in my gallery here, currently serving as a painful reminder that I really need to learn to take better photos: http://imgur.com/a/e4U2a
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Jun 1, 2013 03:47
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Here's some more warmans and hordemans I painted this month: Croak Hunter   Epic Madrak   Lanyssa Ryssyl   Nyss Hunters   Skarlock Thrall   
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Jun 1, 2013 04:01
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Crossposting my Infinity dudes from the Oath thread.     These are the first models I've ever tried priming white. I'd have primed black and used a ridiculously bright basecoat if I'd know what a pain in the rear end it would be and how much it would make all those flaws stick out, but I went with it and challenged myself. I tried to make the cloak on that Magister Knight (Iron Patriot) look like the star-spangled part of the American flag but my morning coffee made it look more like a polka dot dress.  I'm happy with these but I'd still like to do better and learn more. Is there anything obvious (other than photography) I should work on for next month's oath?
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Jun 1, 2013 04:18
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Aix Athanatos posted:AVENGERS ASSEMBLE Why, is that a bit of NMM on the sides of the Patriot's helmet?  I'm also digging the OSL glow on the center figure's chest-light.I'm willing to bet these guys look fantastic from tabletop level or closer. Plus, the mere concept made me snicker out loud when you first described it over in Oath.
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Jun 1, 2013 06:53
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Bavius posted:Cross posting some pictures of a test model I oathed. I think he turned out alright - I wasn't a fan of the paint scheme that my roommate chose but I think this looks good. Interesting take on a metroid.
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Jun 1, 2013 08:48
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Why, is that a bit of NMM on the sides of the Patriot's helmet? No NMM, just Mithril Silver and Armour Wash. I need to actually learn blending before I can do NMM. And thanks, that glow is the one instance of it I actually nailed. I liked your Space Hulk dudes, too. They'd make one hell of a colourful buddy cop movie.
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Jun 1, 2013 15:43
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PxiePip posted:I actually do have an airbrush! So far I've only used it for basecoating though. Do you have a technique in mind for bone that would work well with one? Also, do you know of anywhere I can read about white washing? I've never heard of it and I'm having trouble finding what it means with regards to miniature painting. Ha, that makes it much easier! White washing is just fancy wordage for using a white oil wash as you would a wash of any other color. Mechanically its identical, but its the opposite of what you expect from a normal wash since your effectively lightening an area instead of shading it. You use oil so you can come back and remove parts of it that get into your recessed shadows. Holding the model upside down helps. Since the majority of your model is white you can use an airbrush to achieve quick highlights. Here's what I've done in the past. Thin layers is key:
I'd try that and see where it gets you. You could also:
Both are about as quick. The trick to the first method is how thin you make the white wash and if gets you the effect you want after it dries (you might find that it looks drat good without the white wash). The trick to the second one is highlighting slightly lighter than you would want since your gona' take it down a notch with the sepia wash.
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Jun 1, 2013 20:43
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I'm joining the goon-ham Spring cleaning brigade. Do you need Chaos Space Marines, Eldar, Baneblade bits, BFG stuff, or Warmaster? Then check out my SA mart thread.
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Jun 1, 2013 20:55
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  Knocked out Eldrad just as the new release hit. Idk, I don't feel as thogh it's up to my usual quality, but that could just be shoddy photos. I also feel as though the helmet is kind of lacking. Any input?
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Jun 2, 2013 17:29
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Red Herring posted:
The green on his robes looks excellent, as does his sword. Did you airbrush it? I think the black on his helmet could use a little more highlighting, it looks a little flat. Also, when i paint gems, I like to add a little white dot towards the top to simulate reflected light, then hit them with a gloss varnish. It really makes them pop imo
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Jun 2, 2013 18:45
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Guys I'm looking at getting a new airbrush, thinking either a Badger Krome, Badger velocity or a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Two In One. Has anyone previously used these brushes and would you's recommend them?
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Jun 2, 2013 19:13
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Hixson posted:The green on his robes looks excellent, as does his sword. Did you airbrush it? Thanks, did the sword by hand. I agree with the helmet, though I'm not sure what to do. Edge highlight or blending, and maybe do some of the bubbles into gems too or changing the faceplate colour? As for the gems, good spot. I totally forgot I hadn't done the white spots, though I need to seal him before I gloss it.
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Jun 2, 2013 19:15
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gilljoy posted:Guys I'm looking at getting a new airbrush, thinking either a Badger Krome, Badger velocity or a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Two In One. I use the Renegade Krome, it's awesome and I love it. It's the same as the Sotar 20/20 but has a thicker handle, that's the only difference.
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Jun 2, 2013 19:15
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krushgroove posted:I use the Renegade Krome, it's awesome and I love it. It's the same as the Sotar 20/20 but has a thicker handle, that's the only difference. Excelent, the only thing that puts me off the Krome is that it seems to be quite tricky to get a hold of spare parts over in the UK, and I'd be pissed if couldn't get a replacement needle if I bent it
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Jun 2, 2013 19:17
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gilljoy posted:Excelent, the only thing that puts me off the Krome is that it seems to be quite tricky to get a hold of spare parts over in the UK, and I'd be pissed if couldn't get a replacement needle if I bent it badger-airbrush.co.uk is the UK importer, I know the guy (will be working with him later this year) and while I don't know what their stock situation is I would think they have plenty of spares. Plus, I've been using the Krome since I started airbrushing properly, and haven't bent the needle. As long as you're reasonably careful you can't kill anything on the airbrush.
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Jun 2, 2013 19:31
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krushgroove posted:badger-airbrush.co.uk is the UK importer, I know the guy (will be working with him later this year) and while I don't know what their stock situation is I would think they have plenty of spares. Plus, I've been using the Krome since I started airbrushing properly, and haven't bent the needle. As long as you're reasonably careful you can't kill anything on the airbrush. ahh brilliant, Its a hard choice then
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Jun 2, 2013 20:12
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The little bit of yellow on the white base, combined with the shadow, make it look like he's riding a rocket powered slate and blasting off to battle
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Jun 2, 2013 20:38
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Red Herring posted:Thanks, did the sword by hand. That's crazy. How'd you get it so smooth? Also, re: input. The base seems unfinished. The rocks or whatever he's standing on need some paint on there to really tie the whole thing together, it's just generally off-putting IMO.
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Jun 3, 2013 06:03
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