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I just overclocked my Sandy Bridge i7 2600K from 3.4 to 4.2 a couple days ago. Initially I was having serious temp issues, getting up to 98C when running at full load (Shogun 2 with max settings, CPU test portion of Windows Experience Index assessment). I replaced my CoolerMaster V8 with a Hyper 212 EVO I happened to have lying around. The V8 was clearly sagging off the chip so that was definitely the problem. The EVO is working great, I just load-tested with Windows experience and it only got to 67C. So I think it's fine but the only thing concerning me is that in the BIOS (ASUS P67 Sabertooth) it says the CPU fan is only running at ~590 RPM as opposed to ~1300 for the other fans. Should I be worried about that?
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Jun 5, 2013 03:32
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No, it's a PWM fan. It runs at 600-2000 RPM +/- 10% depending on CPU load and that's perfectly normal.
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Jun 5, 2013 03:43
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Shaocaholica posted:Oh I though OCCT actually changes values and tests them. Ok then. I played with the Asus auto overclock utility. It went straight for the clockspeed instead of the multi, and boosted voltages to unsafe levels. Then it crashed the entire machine and I had to clear the CMOS to get it working again. In other news Zalman has gone with an even more ungainly mounting solution then ever, that forces you to get a straight shaft straight down into 4 screw holes, when there is a case and a heatsink in the way. I'm now heat limited at 4.4ghz, instead of 4.3  . At least 4.5 is the point of diminishing returns for most chips. Gonna run it on prime95 for a few days and make sure it's properly stable. It's amazing how much this chip clocked without bringing up any voltages at all. But now I'm wondering if the 10 minutes it took to get the drat sink clamped down ruined my thermal paste application, which was just a line down the center of the chip as Intel recommends. Maybe temps will come down a bit more as the AS5 bakes in. SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 07:16
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SocketSeven posted:I played with the Asus auto overclock utility. I'd do a few quick Extreme linpack (well, IBT) runs first just to establish basic stability and then never use that again. I was worried that you were doing this to a Haswell processor, but Prime95 and IBT do a pretty solid job of stability testing Sandy Bridge. If it'll Prime95 for a few days, you'll be solid, I reckon. It's absurd though that you find yourself heat limited at that clock with such low voltage; that's the "pretty much every chip can get this" clock range for the 2500K/2600K/2700K, what precisely is the cooler you're using? It kind of sounds like it is not doing its job very well. I remember when I first OC'd my 2600K, which I got before they segmented it further into a 2700K and a 2600K in the SB i7 line... It was trivially easy to get to 4.5GHz. Landed on 4.7 after the hard work. But I'm using one of the gorilla coolers. Nonetheless, I find it really peculiar that your 2700K, binned for performance, and performing well at a relatively low voltage, is somehow putting off too much heat for your cooler. Frankly makes me wonder if the cooler is a good choice 
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Jun 5, 2013 08:09
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Agreed posted:I'd do a few quick Extreme linpack (well, IBT) runs first just to establish basic stability and then never use that again. I was worried that you were doing this to a Haswell processor, but Prime95 and IBT do a pretty solid job of stability testing Sandy Bridge. If it'll Prime95 for a few days, you'll be solid, I reckon. It's a Zalman CNSP9900MAX. Some specs on it here. http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2567 I was reading them the other day. This is what made me pounce on it, since newegg had it for 30 bucks instead of 70. I know it's not the best on the market but I truely don't understand these temps. I was using a CNPS9500AT before, and that website shows a significant difference in idle and load tests. This new one was 10 degrees cooler on their testbed compared to my old one. SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 08:26
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Frostytech uses an artificial heatload which doesn't necessarily correspond to real-world usage. In that price range you could've picked up a 212+ EVO which would've handled your CPU fine, but as I said on the last page, that Zalman cooler is an older model that was designed for Netburst processors and Athlon-X2's. Theoretically it should handle your current chip well enough (at max fan speed), but it's not going to perform miracles as it's just not up to par with current tower coolers. It's not bad per se, but it needs to be noted that even on the Frostytech review it's being compared to coolers which today would fall largely in the low to mid-range in capability and noise factors. edit: 54dba on that list sounds unreal compared to modern coolers for instance). future ghost fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 08:29
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Not trying to be a dick or anything, But with the same test bed, 2 different heatsinks both of which I own, had around a 10 degree difference under load. I understand that a number from a test bed is not going to be the same as a number off a running chip, but why are 2 coolers that are so different on the test bed, so similar in the real word? edit:I'm highly inclined to believe i hosed up the installation somehow. I'll tear it down tomorrow and try again. it took way to much wiggling the heatsink around on top of the processor to get the screws to sink into their holes. or maybe I used too much thermal goop. Nah, I've been having lovely luck in general this week. I better start with de-lidding it. Wheres my sledge hammer? 
SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 08:39
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I'm leaning that way, while it is an unorthodox design, it's still packing a solid compliment of heat pipes (6mm, not ideal, but that's the usual size for coolers like the Hyper series too so I don't think that ought to be held against it). The biggest problem it seems to have is just that regardless of heat pipe wicking capability, there isn't enough radiator area. The fins aren't long enough, it's not put together in a way that allows for the kind of extremely rapid heat transfer we can expect from modern coolers. Still, it should be doing a hell of a lot better than it is. Try reapplying with a thin bead of TIM straight down the middle of the IHS, or maybe a thin X. I've had good results from either a thin X or a thin + on Sandy Bridge, for what it's worth. While the basic design of the cooler seems married to form over function, it is nonetheless - within that constraint - a pretty solid cooler going by specs. I mean, have a look at the heat pipe and fin setup on it - it's not what we're used to seeing but they're using the same kinds of effective technology and doing so in what I think are efficient ways, given that their first objective is it still has to look like a Zalman cooler instead of yet another tower, and it's lower profile. Edit: Delidding a SB processor would probably kill it. It's soldered on. It's with IVB they started loving around with TIM under the IHS like big jerks, and have too much space between the CPU and the IHS at that 
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Jun 5, 2013 08:50
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Yeah, I was joking about that since I've hosed up a few things this week, I might as well go for breaking something expensive. We are talking like 2mm wide beads right? I miss the days of spreading the stuff with a credit card. I was a pro at that. Edit: All the lapping and pre-treatment stuff is bullshit right? I just use 99% rubbing alcohol, get everything to a mirror finish and wipe dry with a lense cloth before applying the goop. I really don't ever want to wet sand a chunk of copper ever again. SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 08:56
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SocketSeven posted:Yeah, I was joking about that since I've hosed up a few things this week, I might as well go for breaking something expensive. 2mm is a bit thicker than I'd go. Width of the nozzle and no wider. You're filling microscopic gaps, anything more than that turns the TIM into an insulator and overapplication is an extremely common problem. I hosed up the first install of my NH-D14 when I built this computer, uuuuugh. But I got a solid 6-7ºC or so (hard to remember, it was June 2011) just from reseating it with a proper, spare application of TIM. I use Noctua's TIM, by the way, but the difference between generic goop and the best poo poo on the market is about 2-3ºC, being generous, so it comes down more to what you prefer - something viscous, something goopy, blah blah blah. Arctic Silver 5 is a little long in the tooth these days if only because it has a problem with dessication that many TIMs don't now, but that just means you "get" to reapply it in a couple years, woo. Lapping isn't bullshit if you're going for THE ULTIMATE OVERCLOCK, but for our purposes (getting to and past 4.5GHz at comfy temps) it should be completely unnecessary. If you're aiming for 5GHz, then it's time to get out the oh-so-fine sandpaper, amigo. 
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Jun 5, 2013 09:14
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Factory Factory posted:No, it's a PWM fan. It runs at 600-2000 RPM +/- 10% depending on CPU load and that's perfectly normal. Cool thanks. Do I have to do anything with the voltage at my level of overclocking? I looked around Google and saw a few different answers. Right now I haven't changed it and it's running fine so far, but I also haven't had much time to use it very much.
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Jun 5, 2013 12:26
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Oh and another question - if I update my BIOS will it lose all the current overclocking settings? I checked the ASUS website and I'm not running the most current BIOS.
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Jun 5, 2013 12:55
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Sometimes they do end up getting carried over, but it's a good idea to use the reset to defaults command and manually reenter everything to prevent any issues from arising.
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Jun 5, 2013 13:04
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Martello posted:Cool thanks. Do I have to do anything with the voltage at my level of overclocking? I looked around Google and saw a few different answers. Right now I haven't changed it and it's running fine so far, but I also haven't had much time to use it very much. I will answer this via metaphor: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you really wanted, you could try stepping the voltage down to see if you could get the same clocks at lower power.
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Jun 5, 2013 13:45
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Factory Factory posted:I will answer this via metaphor: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. This is actually what I did with my 2500K. I overclocked it, then stepped the voltage offset down, down. Which is the opposite of what some assume. Hey, I'll take it running cooler, thanks.
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Jun 5, 2013 14:00
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Martello posted:Oh and another question - if I update my BIOS will it lose all the current overclocking settings? I checked the ASUS website and I'm not running the most current BIOS. Yep, take it as an opportunity to do better! I mean, if you really need something in the BIOS update. Frankly if everything is working fine, who gives a poo poo?
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Jun 5, 2013 16:50
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Agreed posted:Arctic Silver 5 is a little long in the tooth these days if only because it has a problem with dessication that many TIMs don't now, but that just means you "get" to reapply it in a couple years, woo. It's what I've got on hand from applying the original sink a year ago. I also have some zalman goop that came with the heatsink, But I suspect that it's probably not as good, unless AS5 goes bad sitting in it's tube.
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Jun 5, 2013 19:01
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Factory Factory posted:I will answer this via metaphor: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Cool. Dogen posted:Yep, take it as an opportunity to do better! I mean, if you really need something in the BIOS update. Frankly if everything is working fine, who gives a poo poo? And yeah I guess I don't really need to update the BIOS.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:02
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Martello posted:Oh and another question - if I update my BIOS will it lose all the current overclocking settings? I checked the ASUS website and I'm not running the most current BIOS. Probably;  : BIOS ROM is probably a 8MB SPI Flash part, where the actual BIOS/EFI code resides in the upper 4MB. As it's SPI flash, the EFI variable store is in there as well, meaning your BIOS settings / profiles / etc live in a little carved out region in that chip.Depending on the flag(s) the update tool's called with, it can just wipe out that entire 4MB region and replace it entirely, or attempt to preserve NVRAM data. Most of the time, it's safer to clobber the entire region as if your SETUP_DATA structure has changed (new setup options, removing older ones, etc), the variable in NVRAM is no longer valid anyway. e: the first 4MB is for Intel stuff, Management Engine, Ethernet MAC settings, etc SocketSeven posted:It's what I've got on hand from applying the original sink a year ago. I also have some zalman goop that came with the heatsink, But I suspect that it's probably not as good, unless AS5 goes bad sitting in it's tube. I've always stored my extra thermal paste in the fridge, seems to help it remain in decent shape.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:11
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SocketSeven posted:It's what I've got on hand from applying the original sink a year ago. I also have some zalman goop that came with the heatsink, But I suspect that it's probably not as good, unless AS5 goes bad sitting in it's tube.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:57
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LCD Deathpanel posted:The difference between pastes is pretty minimal and it shouldn't really go bad unless it's dried out from being left open. I still have AS5 from 4-5 years ago that works fine. Lately I've just been using Thermalright chillfactor3 since I got a big sample tube of it and it works well enough. Yeah, It still seems like a liquid to me. It hasn't caked up or anything. I'll stick with the AS5 I saw some review site use mayo as a thermal interface material. It worked surprisingly well, but they did not test it's long term endurance. 
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Jun 5, 2013 22:40
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SocketSeven posted:Yeah, It still seems like a liquid to me. It hasn't caked up or anything. I'll stick with the AS5 Mayo is just egg yolks and oil. I can see oil conducting a decent amount of heat. The proteins in the egg might clump up though under heat but there wouldn't be any room under the pressure of the heatsink to really do anything. Might be better to just use cooking oil but mayo would be easier to spread.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:48
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I can see it now in Worst Buy. "I Can't Believe it's not Thermal Interface Material: Lite!"
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Jun 5, 2013 22:51
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Mayo did perform 5C better than toothpaste though
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Jun 5, 2013 22:54
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That's because they didn't use cool mint or wintergreen toothpaste. You can tell by the names alone they'd be far superior to regular Crest. 
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Jun 5, 2013 22:57
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SocketSeven posted:I saw some review site use mayo as a thermal interface material. It worked surprisingly well, but they did not test it's long term endurance. I remember seeing that. I think FF joked that we should then use DBM as the unit for how good any thermal paste is. Degrees Below Mayo
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Jun 5, 2013 22:59
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IC Diamond is just toothpaste with the crystals in it.
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Jun 5, 2013 23:00
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Well. I reseated the heatsink with "that cant possibly be enough" thermal goop. Whoever designed zalmans mounting brackets should be shot. They shoud have had the threads on the heatsink and the screws on the back, where the ENTIRE COOLER doesn't get in the way of putting a screw driver into the fastener. Oh, and my temps are down 1 degree, despite having to dremel a torx wrench in half to tighten the sink down. I give up. I got 100 extra mhz, and prime95 can only get a single core up to 73. another to 70, and the others are at 65/66
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Jun 6, 2013 07:56
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Plugged in my H100 for the first time since I bought it new over a year ago. Don't even have the new system to actually drop it into yet but I figure I should run this thing for a few hours just to be sure its OK.
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Jun 6, 2013 19:03
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Everything came today. It's working out: Low to mid 70s with air cooling. Edit: \/\/ Oops, thanks! FormatAmerica fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 22:54
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FormatAmerica posted:Everything came today. It's working out: Why is your memory in single channel mode? Timings could be a bit tighter too.
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Jun 6, 2013 22:56
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It looks like it's running at DDR3-2400. Latency is probably equivalent to DDR3-1600 CL9 or CL8, if not a bit better. But yeah, fix yer DIMMs for dual-channel. If you're pushing to DDR3-2400, it's pretty drat silly to skip dual-channel.
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Jun 6, 2013 23:35
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HalloKitty posted:This is actually what I did with my 2500K. I overclocked it, then stepped the voltage offset down, down. Which is the opposite of what some assume. Hey, I'll take it running cooler, thanks. Im running my 3570k at an -0.240 V offset at stock clocks. The auto voltage setting on my motherboard is horrible, GPU-Z would have it bounce around ~1.2V, spiking up to 1.4+. With the -.240 offset I never see it go above 1.02V. Maybe the thing will overclock better in 7 years when Ive got an itch to upgrade.
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Jun 7, 2013 04:16
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While running Shogun 2 (yes that's what I'm doing with my computer all the time right now) I notice in CPU-Z it says the load on each core isn't even. Core 0 usually has something like a fifty percent load, while the other three have single-digits if not zero. Is there something I'm just not understanding about how multi-core processors work, or is there something else going on here?
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Jun 7, 2013 11:49
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Many applications are single threaded. They'll only work on one core at a time. If you have 4 cores, only 1 will see load. I'm not sure how hyperthreading works into it, but it's possible that hyperthreading could make the CPU usage on the core being used show as 50% instead of 100% (Please call me on this if it's bullshit.) Edit: I just cant stop messing with my heatsink. I think I've done a bit better this time and hit 4.5ghz with a minor bump to vcore. I've got 1 core that goes to 74, and one that hits 73 during prime95 and nowhere else. Volts seem good, Just letting it sit and prove it wont BSOD on me. Have I missed something horrible? (like I usually do)  
SocketSeven fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 14:29
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No screenshots at the moment, but so far the highest 1 hour stable voltage I've been able to get my 4670K is 4.1 GHz @ 1.19 V. Could possibly undervolt some more, but haven't bothered yet. This is on an ASRock Z87 Extreme4 with a Hyper 212 Evo. I can't seem to get 4.2+ GHz stable under stress, even taking my Vcore up to 1.3. I keep crashing with BSOD code 124. Googling around indicates the solution for this code in Ivy Bridge was to tweak QPI / VTT / VCCIO first, but I see no such options in the BIOS. Are these options inaccessible behind the IVR or renamed to something else? Should I just crank the voltage higher as long as temps permit it? Temps at the 41x are max 73 C, average 69 C, at 1.3V it's 2 - 3 degrees higher. From what I've read, temperature is not a limiting factor for me yet. Do I just have a bad chip? Edit: 2x8 GB RAM @ 1600, 8-8-8-24 (stock), in case that matters.
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Jun 7, 2013 15:40
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SocketSeven posted:Many applications are single threaded. They'll only work on one core at a time. If you have 4 cores, only 1 will see load. Yep. Windows will sometimes migrate a single thread around to the various cores, thereby letting multiple single-threaded programs take advantage of all the cores, but that's not done with a high-performance, time-sensitive task like a video game because such thread migrations take time. quote:I'm not sure how hyperthreading works into it, but it's possible that hyperthreading could make the CPU usage on the core being used show as 50% instead of 100% (Please call me on this if it's bullshit.) God I don't know. That's a surprisingly difficult question to Google. I know that Macs work like that, except with each logical core worth 100% (so a fully-loaded dual core w/ HT system being 400% load), but I can't see how Windows does it and my current system doesn't have an HT processor. metasynthetic posted:Do I just have a bad chip? It's possible, but 1.19V isn't high enough to really tell conclusively. According to Asus' numbers, about 30% of chips can't make it to 4.5 GHz even with 1.275V. You gotta lotta centivolts to go before you get there.
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Jun 7, 2013 18:01
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Factory Factory posted:Yep. Windows will sometimes migrate a single thread around to the various cores, thereby letting multiple single-threaded programs take advantage of all the cores, but that's not done with a high-performance, time-sensitive task like a video game because such thread migrations take time. This leads me to a question of some voodoo thread management I've been doing. When I'm gaming and have music or a movie going at the same time, I'll separate the high CPU use programs to their own cores with the core affinity in task manager. I don't know if this is any help at all, or it's so little help I don't see a big difference. Any thoughts on that idea?
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Jun 7, 2013 18:08
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SocketSeven posted:This leads me to a question of some voodoo thread management I've been doing. That's a complete waste of time. You burned more energy clicking the mouse than the CPU saved and gained no performance.
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Jun 7, 2013 18:11
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I finally got around to overclocking my 2600K. I'm not sure if I'm done yet, so I'll ask this thread. My Gigabyte board doesn't allow me to manually set the VCORE, so I turned off CPU PLL Overvolting and increased my DVID to 0.05 w/ a 45x multiplier. Prime 95 kept crashing within 30 seconds. I'm currently on a 43x multiplier with a voltage of around 1.33-1.37 which seems to fluctuate. Prime 95 and encodes vary between 72-80C under load with my 212 Evo fan. Should I be concerned? Also, I didn't turn off any power saving features, but it seems to spike under HWinfo64 even while idle.   Any other settings I should tweak or do would be great! EconOutlines fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 18:11
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