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That air chamber intake shouldnt be causing any idle issues. It's before the throttle body and is not pulled to vacuum. Your car (in working condition) would idle just fine if it wasn't even there; its function is just to route the air and filter it. You would have idle problems if it were a MAF car. Have you checked for leaks around the intake manifold? edit: Does anyone have any idea why the OBD2 readiness monitors would reset to 'not ready'? I went to get an inspection, and just prior to turning the car off and walking in the shop, I checked with torque and only had 2 not ready (passable in NYS with a 1999 car). I failed with 4 not ready (which I confirmed myself right after leaving). The two that went to not ready were the EGR and O2 sensor monitors, the other two were catalyst efficiency and the evap monitor. I don't understand why they would reset unless the tech cleared the ECU or something retarded like that. dyne fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Jun 1, 2013 |
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Jun 1, 2013 16:56
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Does anyone know if the 2002 TS2.5 (RS) master cylinder cap is the same as the WRX? Reason I'm asking is I'm looking at buying the motive power bleeder here: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Motive-Products-Import-Power-Bleeder-Kit It's for the rally car. With having a hydraulic staging brake I heard it's a pain in the rear end to bleed, so I want to get a pressure bleeder. Will it fit my reservoir too? Edit: Also if anyone has a discount coupon for RallySportDirect that you don't need, let me know. My order is up to $1300!
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Jun 2, 2013 00:56
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Any reason not to pick up a free set of STi stock springs? I've got an 02 wagon.
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Jun 2, 2013 01:40
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toplitzin posted:Any reason not to pick up a free set of STi stock springs? They are awesome. Get them. You can sell them to me if you decide you have no use for them.
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Jun 2, 2013 01:46
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Wagons might need saggy butt spacers which will result in losing a bit of rear camber. That said, do it. Do it now.
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Jun 2, 2013 01:50
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toplitzin posted:Any reason not to pick up a free set of STi stock springs? Nice upgrade. Grab.
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Jun 2, 2013 02:06
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MrZig posted:Does anyone know if the 2002 TS2.5 (RS) master cylinder cap is the same as the WRX?
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Jun 2, 2013 02:54
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jamal posted:Should be the same cap. As for a "discount coupon," I can probably help you out. Send me a pm or email with the stuff you're getting. Edit: Email sent MrZig fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jun 2, 2013 |
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Jun 2, 2013 02:58
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Last weekend I bought a brand new white STI, and over the past week I've been babying it until its broken in. Now its literally broken in.   I was stopped with foot on the brake and was hit by a guy going at least 35, possibly more. I'm going to hear from my insurance inspector this week, but I was wondering if it looks like a total loss. The hatch and rear doors don't line up properly anymore, and where the bumper bar connects to the frame is bent and broken. My girlfriend and I were not seriously injured but both our backs and necks are sore and stiff. I'm also really bummed out. 
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Jun 3, 2013 00:42
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That isn't totaled.
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Jun 3, 2013 00:46
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I'm having 4x wheel bearings done on a set of WRX hubs. I have timkin bearings. Do I need any seals? Giving to a friend and he's gonna press everything. What seals and any part #s? I'll be doing a rock auto or dealer order tomorrow.
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Jun 3, 2013 01:10
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daslog posted:That isn't totaled. Agreed, though it definitely sucks.
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Jun 3, 2013 02:03
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pctD posted:Last weekend I bought a brand new white STI, and over the past week I've been babying it until its broken in. Came to post that I had finally taken delivery of my white wrx hatch. Now I wish I was not traveling for work so I could go hug it. That totally sucks man. Glad you both are OK. It will be repaired and hopefully the scar will heal.
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Jun 3, 2013 03:56
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Slow is Fast posted:I'm having 4x wheel bearings done on a set of WRX hubs. There are 2 seals per wheel bearing. OpposedForces should have the diagram as I'm not sure what year your hubs are off of. Looks like some guy on NASIOC figured out the rear seal part numbers for Timken at least. Might be worthwhile to get a new snap ring while you're in there. Here is a post with the pressing order (bearing -> outer seal -> hub -> inner seal). Sounds like some people also dismantle the bearing and replace the grease with a higher temperature race substitute, which if you can do it easily I'd opt for considering your driving patterns and braking habits. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 05:00
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I didn't know these existed One near me with 136k miles, asking 4900. Anything objectively good about them in this day and age, or are they just interesting as a piece of history for brand enthusiasts?
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Jun 3, 2013 05:49
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The motor in those things is pretty loving great (an effectively invulnerable forged-piston closed-deck EJ22 turbo). You can swap in a lot of pre-2008 Impreza/WRX parts. I saw one with an entire 06 WRX interior and drivetrain swap which was pretty wild. They rust like a mad bastard and nobody really knows what they are. Every one I've seen trade hands has been for under 2 grand and you can get away with a lot of really stupid mods without even attempting to tune. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 05:55
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Oh, the spring question reminded me that I have one of my own - I have an 02 Impreza TS (wagon), and have WRX springs from the same - will the ride height be different at all?
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Jun 3, 2013 07:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The motor in those things is pretty loving great (an effectively invulnerable forged-piston closed-deck EJ22 turbo). You can swap in a lot of pre-2008 Impreza/WRX parts. I saw one with an entire 06 WRX interior and drivetrain swap which was pretty wild. If you think thats wild you should see what we do with them over here in Australia. Thats far too much money for one, but they are indeed awesome. Everything pre 5x114.3 impreza drops into them, GC8 suspension is a bolt in also. Seats bolt in up to 06 I think, brakes all bolt on, GC8 exhausts are all the same too. They fly under the 5-0 radar too!
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Jun 3, 2013 14:14
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I'm considering buying a 2013 STI, and since I'm trading in an FRS, I was wondering if there's any FRS/BRZ-style "known issues" with the 2013 STIs I should know about before getting into one. Things like ECU problems, horrible torque dips, melting DI injectors, foggy tail lights, nonstop high pitched audibles from the pump... things of that nature? My FRS sat in the shop for 25 days due to new-model shittiness that shoulda been corrected before release, and I can get into the STI with a less-than 1k rollover in my loan, a difference I'm just going to pay off anyways.
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Jun 4, 2013 04:24
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blk posted:I didn't know these existed I saw one of those for sale on craigslist here in wisconsin this winter for $2,500. I should have picked it up. It looked really clean as well. It would have made a great ice racer too. G-Mach fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jun 4, 2013 |
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Jun 4, 2013 04:43
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Linux Nazi posted:I'm considering buying a 2013 STI, and since I'm trading in an FRS, I was wondering if there's any FRS/BRZ-style "known issues" with the 2013 STIs I should know about before getting into one. Things like ECU problems, horrible torque dips, melting DI injectors, foggy tail lights, nonstop high pitched audibles from the pump... things of that nature? The pistons are made out of cheese. Soft cheese.
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Jun 4, 2013 05:59
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So for the first time today I set about working on my car and literally every single thing worked out, I had every tool, and nothing broke. I was installing the oil temp sending unit (replacing stock idiot light oil pressure sender under the alternator on the EJ20), all the wire routing was easy, found a ground that didn't make me have to extend the wire, and everything went back together completely perfectly. I was so thrilled that I took the time to wash and wax it with Autoglym's 'extra-gloss protection'. Looks great, I suppose it remains to be seen how it holds up.
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Jun 4, 2013 06:24
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daslog posted:That isn't totaled. From the photos I'd agree. Can you take a few steps back and show how the doors and hatch no longer align? Do they open? From the photo it looks like someone was going 5mph and just tapped the bumper enough to knock it out of it's plastic clips.
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Jun 4, 2013 16:08
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Linux Nazi posted:My FRS sat in the shop for 25 days due to new-model shittiness that shoulda been corrected before release, and I can get into the STI with a less-than 1k rollover in my loan, a difference I'm just going to pay off anyways. There's a huge price difference between the two cars, how are you doing this?
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Jun 4, 2013 16:09
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VelociBacon posted:So for the first time today I set about working on my car and literally every single thing worked out, I had every tool, and nothing broke. What gauge did you install for? I'm thinking about doing the Defi oil pressure gauge(especially since I have the Defi Boost). Did you do the gauge install yet?
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Jun 4, 2013 16:29
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Just need a little help from someone with an 08+ WRX or STI. I'm going to be making a scoop in the same style for my Baja and I want to get some measurements from an oem one before I start cutting into my hood. Specifically I would like to know how wide, long, and high the scoop is. I saw a few around and have eyeball measurements but didn't have a tape measure. Also would be useful to know the distance between the start of the intercooler and the entrance of the scoop. Any other measurements that might be useful would be appreciated. There's lots of info for the older style of scoops but since the new ones are molded into the bumper it looks like nobody has measured it out. My plan is to cut the hood in an H pattern with one part lifted and the other sunken in with the rest of the construction and styling with fiberglass and Bondo to smooth it out.
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Jun 4, 2013 16:32
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Larrymer posted:There's a huge price difference between the two cars, how are you doing this? I'm financing more, just since I had enough paid down on my FRS and the trade in value on it is still high, I'm not going to be in a position where there's a huge gap between what I owe on the loan and what the trade in is worth.
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Jun 4, 2013 18:04
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Linux Nazi posted:I'm financing more, just since I had enough paid down on my FRS and the trade in value on it is still high, I'm not going to be in a position where there's a huge gap between what I owe on the loan and what the trade in is worth. I still dont understand how that is going to work, but I'm a financing dummy. Do you owe more on the FRS than its worth by 1k? Anyway, I have a 2011 STi hatch. The car has been great, but as was said, it likes to let go of pistons, especially number 4. The tune, American fuel, and the motor/piston design combine to make it an issue. A new tune is a good idea as the factory one sucks, has a torque dip just like the BRZ. The piston issue is magnified by the interwebs. My car has been fine and I used to autocross it regularly. Other notes are that the seats suck, gas mileage sucks, and it's going to have interior rattles. Oh and sometimes the oil pickup fails and it's pretty much too late once you know (OEM oil pressure low light illuminates at 2.1 psi or something long after your motor is dead). Drivetrain and suspension stuff seem real solid though. It's a fun car for sure!
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Jun 4, 2013 19:25
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MasterOfDemons posted:What gauge did you install for? I'm thinking about doing the Defi oil pressure gauge(especially since I have the Defi Boost). Did you do the gauge install yet? I'll take some pictures once they're done (still waiting on a bung fitting to do the oil pressure sender) but they're Prosport gauges, oil temp, pressure, and boost. I mounted them into a dash pod similar to what the new STI's come with I believe (3 gauges above the vents). The gauges themselves are great and work perfectly, don't require a central unit like the Defi's, were $50 each, came with all necessary hardware as well as extra stuff I didn't use like hoods for the gauges (my pod has a hood built in) and connectors for people who don't solder everything. The only complaint I have is that I would have liked the wiring to be of a heavier gauge. They use 20ga or 22ga for the wires and the firewall grommet on my car (98 RA STi V-Ltd) comes out right behind the downpipe. I loomed everything but that's quite a bit of heat for the sensor wires going to the gauges to take. I installed the gauges first and ran all the wires into the engine bay before installing any senders. Every gauge's sender unit is going to have a very similar install. On your Defi's I suppose you'd be bringing the sender unit wires to the central Defi unit and not the gauges themselves.
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Jun 4, 2013 20:01
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Amandyke posted:From the photos I'd agree. Can you take a few steps back and show how the doors and hatch no longer align? Do they open? From the photo it looks like someone was going 5mph and just tapped the bumper enough to knock it out of it's plastic clips. Here are a couple better pictures:     (picture 1 is where the bumper bar connects to the rear panel) I had my bodyshop take a look at it, and they'll be tearing down the rear end to confirm if there is any frame damage. However, they did notice the rear subframe, exhaust, sway bar + end links, as well as other suspension bits are compromised from the accident. The transmission may need replacement as well, as I was in 1st gear and the clutch popped out when I was hit. Since the car has about 300 miles on it, they want to make sure it's all correct. The first step is to take it to a Subaru dealer and have a safety inspection done. If it doesn't pass, the consensus is going to be a total loss, but the initial estimate is about $10,000 worth of damage right now, before everything has been torn apart completely. We'll see where it goes from here, but I'll definitely be filing a diminished value claim after the repairs are done (if I go that route).
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Jun 4, 2013 23:26
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I still dont understand how that is going to work, but I'm a financing dummy. Do you owe more on the FRS than its worth by 1k? Thanks for the info. Yeah basically when you trade in a car and get less than what you owe the difference is "rolled over" into the new loan. Something to avoid, but thankfully I'll be low enough I can just pay off the difference and be rid of this junky FRS. Is the oil issue severe enough to justify an aftermarket gauge? Do any of the tunes change the oil pressure indicator threshold to something more realistic?
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Jun 4, 2013 23:39
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Linux Nazi posted:Is the oil issue severe enough to justify an aftermarket gauge? Don't let the oil get low, check it every fill-up (which you should realistically do on any car - not that I do  ), stick to the oil change intervals and make sure the banjo bolt filters get cleaned out or removed occasionally (as debris can sometimes get stuck in them and cut off oil flow to the turbo).For what it's worth, on my 2.5L turbo I went with the oil pickup. quote:Do any of the tunes change the oil pressure indicator threshold to something more realistic?
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Jun 4, 2013 23:42
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Maybe, but it's probably better to just get an aftermarket oil pickup (once it's out of warranty, of course. I can only imagine how fun that would be to justify a warranty shortblock replacement if you popped a ringland or spun a bearing while an aftermarket oiling system was installed). I have to admit I haven't heard of any oil pickup failures on the 08+ engines but I haven't really been paying attention over there. Yeah I'm reading about the oil pickup issue now. Seems to be all over the map, also effects '13 models. I don't regularly drive particularly hard, and there seems to be a fairly simple after market product that corrects the fault. Better than melting injectors.
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Jun 5, 2013 00:35
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Linux Nazi posted:Is the oil issue severe enough to justify an aftermarket gauge? Do any of the tunes change the oil pressure indicator threshold to something more realistic? Does subaru still do OEM optional gauge clusters? My car (2005 LGT) has this as a dealer add on and it actually gives you real information  It is all defi guts too. I think oil pressure, temp, and boost are all pretty vital. The pressure due to the oil pickup issue, temp because subaru isn't good on oil cooling (at least for track work, you can get scary temps), boost because you really should have a boost gauge on a turbo car. Yeah and check your oil every fill up. These cars can drink oil very randomly -- a leading cause of older subaru engine death. nm fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 06:13
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I still am jealous of your wagon. I miss mine.
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Jun 5, 2013 13:48
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The new Greddy gauge does many things in one gauge. I think you can have oil temp and pressure both shown digitally on an analog boost gauge. If you want you can switch the digital outputs to water temp, egt, afr, and things like that. Too bad the gauge lights up blue and I'm a ho for color matching. But yea I would also like to witness someone try to get warranty with the killer b pickup. Gauge might be better if you care about warranty. I'm interested to know that turned you off the FRS/BRZ so quickly. And thanks for clearing up the financing questions that makes alot more sense now  Edit 2: check out iwsti.com. Usual idiots but STi specific and there is good info to be found. Nasioc is pretty bad IMHO and I never go there. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 16:02
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nm posted:Does subaru still do OEM optional gauge clusters? Oh god I want that on my 05 LGT. Where can I buy it? Couldn't find it on a quick google.
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Jun 5, 2013 18:25
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bidikyoopi posted:Oh god I want that on my 05 LGT. Where can I buy it? Couldn't find it on a quick google. It looks like it's this, which I saw on RSD when I was buying pads awhile ago.
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Jun 5, 2013 20:13
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I still dont understand how that is going to work, but I'm a financing dummy. Do you owe more on the FRS than its worth by 1k? I have a 2011 STi sedan and I would disagree with the seats and gas mileage opinion. I'm a big fan of the hug the seats give and my gas mileage has been averaging 24.6 MPH over 6600 miles (for a 300hp sports car, I can deal with this). I agree about the pistons though, I had a malforged piston #2 and my 4th pistol had a ringland failure about 10.5k miles in. It was completely covered by warranty though, so I don't really care. Interior rattles do happen, but the dash and door panels are very easy to take apart and add foam between the contacting surfaces. Catsoup fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 21:37
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The RS saga continues. I ran this test http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B0007ZDRUI The instructions say if the Fluid turns yellow than it's exhaust gases in your radiator. My fluid turned Green. I rinsed out the container and repeated the test. Still green. What does Green mean?
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Jun 5, 2013 21:46
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