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You've got some spheres posting that here. wait...
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Jun 2, 2013 21:56
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just gonna PLOP this thing down hnyah (it is relevant to The O)
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Jun 3, 2013 02:36
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Decided to take a break from assembling the FA Unicorn's weapons to get started on the Nu vKa. I didn't get very far, but I thought this looked kind of funny so I snapped a picture.
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Jun 3, 2013 05:39
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BlitzBlast posted:Decided to take a break from assembling the FA Unicorn's weapons to get started on the Nu vKa. "Huh... I noticed I wasn't on next week's schedule but I figured it was a mistake...
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Jun 3, 2013 17:24
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So I've been working on a model for the last 6 months (Apparently when I do custom work it takes 6x longer to finish something). Totally realized that I painted 2 Gelgoog beam spot gun barrels (painted dark grey) a few weeks ago and accidentally threw them out in the black trash bag I was using. Thankfully I have a 3d printer and pla pate+metal piping so I'll be able to reconstruct them. I am so good at making extra work for myself. Got in a MG Jesta today and a MG Ball ver Ka. Pretty surprised how small the Jesta kit is. It's the same footprint as a HG but twice as thick. Edit: I finally cleaned up my closet and my kit collection. I suddenly don't feel so guilty that I have a backlog, it doesn't seem like that many.  
Faltion fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 05:24
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To be honest, I would have waited on the MG Jesta for a bit. I'd say the Jesta Cannon is a guarantee, and as it is the base Jesta kit is kind of lacking in terms of accessories. Also: ahhhhh the MG Nu vKa's hands. I tried to be as careful as I could getting them off the runners, and I still ended up losing the right thumb. And I'm worried that every time I move the thing more stuff will pop up, what was wrong with the old MG hands Bandai 
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Jun 6, 2013 11:41
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BlitzBlast posted:To be honest, I would have waited on the MG Jesta for a bit. I'd say the Jesta Cannon is a guarantee, and as it is the base Jesta kit is kind of lacking in terms of accessories. What the hell is wrong with you? I have those exact same hands on my Sinanju Stein, and while I agree that it's loving terrifying getting them off the runners, once they're off they're approximately a million billion times better than old MG hands in every way. It's just stressful moving every single joint to break them in but once you're done you realise they're far more solid than they seem. Apart from the thumb, yeah. But I had thumbs pop off the old MG hands all the time as well.
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Jun 6, 2013 12:34
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That was mostly hyperbole. These things are crazy flexible, and definitely better than the old MG hands in a number of ways. But at the same time I've never had nearly as much trouble with the old hands, even on the FA ZZ. I guess it's the price of flexibility. v  vEDIT: V I'm sorry, but shoulder cannons are objectively awesome. 
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 13:45
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BlitzBlast posted:To be honest, I would have waited on the MG Jesta for a bit. I'd say the Jesta Cannon is a guarantee, and as it is the base Jesta kit is kind of lacking in terms of accessories. The cannon doesn't have the really neat moving shield that the Jesta does though, which is by far the best part of that suit.
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Jun 6, 2013 14:32
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Faltion posted:Edit: I finally cleaned up my closet and my kit collection. I suddenly don't feel so guilty that I have a backlog, it doesn't seem like that many. It's not Fauxtool's collection but you should get going on those!
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Jun 6, 2013 18:51
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I always love goon's collections because it makes me feel so much better about my own backlog. Only have 5-6 kits!
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Jun 6, 2013 19:59
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The obvious reason why I got a Jesta is that when they release the MG Jesta Cannon, I will be able to have a Jesta and a Jesta Cannon to sit unbuilt on my shelf for a year(s).
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Jun 6, 2013 20:24
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two of the guys here have bigger collections. Mine is just has all the current models. I would take a picture but I put my bed on 8" risers so i could fit all my gundams underneath and out of sight. That PG 00 raiser I grabbed while in Japan is taunting me
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Jun 6, 2013 23:18
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http://gundamguy.blogspot.ca/2013/06/robot-damashii-side-ms-gundam.html?m=1 Why aren't you Master Grade, or at least HGAC?!
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Jun 8, 2013 05:12
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At some point you're going to have to accept that the EW designs are more popular Taurus.
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Jun 8, 2013 05:46
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BlitzBlast posted:At some point you're going to have to accept that the EW designs are more popular Taurus. Overused =\= more popular.
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Jun 8, 2013 05:58
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Heavyarms Custom is the only true Heavyarms. MAXIMUM CHAINGUN
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Jun 8, 2013 14:36
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 This Nu Gundam isn't just for show, but the legs certainly are. Now that I've built most of the kit, I've got to say I'm not a real big fan of the Nu vKa. One of the main traits of the original Nu, I feel, is how simple/elegant it was, and this kind of spits all over that with tons of unnecessary crap. It's still much better than the original MG of course, but I kind of wish Bandai had made a Nu 2.0 instead of vKa. And on a less subjective note, either this thing's wrists are terrible or the beam rifle is too heavy. Whichever it is, you can't do much with the rifle since 90% of the time it's going to be drooping down. Also I checked, and this thing is about the same height as my FA Unicorn. There's a 2 meter difference between the actual two, what the hell Bandai? 
BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jun 9, 2013 |
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Jun 9, 2013 01:12
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What is the general consensus on the MG Aegis? I'm really tossing up between it and the Epyon. What are your recommendations?
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Jun 9, 2013 03:22
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Vahtooch posted:What is the general consensus on the MG Aegis? I'm really tossing up between it and the Epyon. What are your recommendations? They're both great kits. It's all up to whatever kit you like more. I say Epyon but that's Gundam Wing bias on my part.
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Jun 9, 2013 03:33
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BlitzBlast posted:One of the main traits of the original Nu, I feel, is how simple/elegant it was, and this kind of spits all over that with tons of unnecessary crap. Katoki's MO is to drop an existing design off a shelf, glue it back together, and panel-line the cracks.
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Jun 9, 2013 05:22
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Ok, so, my hobby shop is having a clearance sale. I picked up a Robot Damashii Tallgeese 3 there for like 60% off. Nice price, nice figure. Problem is, I get it home, open the box... and the right leg has busted off. It's pretty much impossible to see in package; it's held in place and pretty covered, so I'm not thinking they knew it was broken and sold it. Either way, though, it's busted, and they don't have another one. Since it was clearance, they probably won't get one, either. So, I'd like to know, how should I fix this? http://imgur.com/a/pdJQE Just start throwing out ideas, don't worry about what I have access to. I might be able to get access to stuff I don't even know yet so I don't wanna cut any avenues off. Kurui Reiten fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jun 10, 2013 |
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Jun 10, 2013 01:42
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You could try superglue or plastic cement, but you'd have to be very careful not to use too much or you'll glue his hip joint solid.
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Jun 10, 2013 01:46
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Smooth out the ends so it mates well where it broke off, insert a metal rod and super glue it all together. Since it's not the ball joint you should be able to move it, but probably wouldn't recommend it much after gluing it back together.
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Jun 10, 2013 01:46
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Would I need a pin vise to insert a metal rod? How do those work, exactly? I've heard of them before, in fixing all variety of things or just shoring them up, but I've never used one.
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Jun 10, 2013 02:19
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Kurui Reiten posted:Would I need a pin vise to insert a metal rod? How do those work, exactly? I've heard of them before, in fixing all variety of things or just shoring them up, but I've never used one. Given how there's already a hole going into each part you shouldn't need a pin vice cause you can just get a metal rod of roughly the right diameter and glue that in. If the break just exposed solid plastic then you would need one to drill a hole.
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Jun 10, 2013 02:27
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A pin vice is just a small handheld drill that uses very small drill bits. I doubt a conventional drill would be able to hold a bit small enough to do the drilling unless you had a chuck head on it. Pin Vices are also probably better to use than a conventional drill since you have more control over the drill. You should be able to get them at any good hobby store, failing that if you have a local Games Workshop I'm pretty sure they sell pin vices. Not to mention amazon.
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Jun 10, 2013 02:27
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I get the feeling I should get one regardless, and I have multiple hobby shops, a Games Workshop, and other such places around here. I shouldn't have much trouble finding one, though advice on getting a good one would be nice. Also, when you say tiny drills, do they require power? I know, these are probably simple, idiot questions, but still. Thanks goons.
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Jun 10, 2013 02:31
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Kurui Reiten posted:I get the feeling I should get one regardless, and I have multiple hobby shops, a Games Workshop, and other such places around here. I shouldn't have much trouble finding one, though advice on getting a good one would be nice. Also, when you say tiny drills, do they require power? I know, these are probably simple, idiot questions, but still. Thanks goons. A pin vise is just a really small handle for tiny drill bits, like 1mm in diameter small. No additional power required, it's all in your fingers at that size.
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Jun 10, 2013 02:35
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This looks like a simple fix, wish I could give it a try I love things like this. You just need a short thin metal rod, find a sewing needle and cut it to the right length near the thick end. If you want to get really technical(and pricey) go to a Watch Repair shop and see all the tiny little rods those guys have. Careful if you sand the parts down, take away too much and the leg may not reach the hip anymore. If it were me I'd cut a rod to length, hold one end with pliers, put a drop of superglue onto the tip of the leg's nub(right on the hole) and insert the rod into the nub, pushing through the superglue. Now apply glue to the hip where it broke. Press the rod along with the leg into the hole in the hip. The rod will push through the glue taking some of it into the hole it was pressed into, making a pretty good bond. Hopefully this makes sense, you're in a lucky position having centered holes already present in the pieces that broke.
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Jun 10, 2013 03:03
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Depending on the plastic, it might be a perfect fit without the need for sanding. I think the joints on RDs are made of POM so maybe that'll work fine??
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Jun 10, 2013 03:20
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TBH I'd go with minimal superglue on the rod so it doesn't overflow onto the surface, achieved by pushing the rod into the bottle, inserting into one side of the hole and then repeating when dry on the other side when attaching that part, and then using poly cement to melt the plastic around the rod so it forms a stronger bond. It'd be easy enough to ensure alignment is right with some dry-erase markers or whatever before inserting the pin.Kurui Reiten posted:I get the feeling I should get one regardless, and I have multiple hobby shops, a Games Workshop, and other such places around here. I shouldn't have much trouble finding one, though advice on getting a good one would be nice. Also, when you say tiny drills, do they require power? I know, these are probably simple, idiot questions, but still. Thanks goons.
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Jun 10, 2013 03:47
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http://www.micromark.com Good source for modeling tools in general. (do NOT attempt to fix it with super glue alone - the stuff will not hold up under the forces exerted by something like a hip joint)
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Jun 10, 2013 07:40
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What sort of glue would you use? I only recommended super glue because I thought it would give a good bond to the metal was well as the plastic.
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Jun 10, 2013 16:39
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Super glue would be fine with metal reinforcement: CA adhesives have inherently poor shear strength, but the rod should more than compensate for this. What to use if one chooses not to place a rod depends on the type of plastic - there are a number of cements available at the previous link which are designed to work with more than one kind, though some types will need specialty adhesives - but with those types of breaks you should ALWAYS reinforce, really. poo poo, sometimes it's so obvious a joint is going to break at some point I just go ahead and break it on purpose so I can rebuild it to (hopefully) last. Not always possible!
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Jun 10, 2013 18:58
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By the looks of it, the thing will have to hold up to torsion stress too.
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Jun 10, 2013 19:02
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Does anyone know if the generic MS hands are compatible with the old NG 1/144s? I'm thinking of picking up the Double X, but I really do not like the look of its hands.
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Jun 12, 2013 11:31
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BlitzBlast posted:Does anyone know if the generic MS hands are compatible with the old NG 1/144s? I'm thinking of picking up the Double X, but I really do not like the look of its hands. Should work fine if 1/144 Double X's hands are ball-joint based.
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Jun 12, 2013 15:29
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I saw a few posts about this a page or two back, but is the consensus that amazon is usually on par with the assorted hobby web sites a lot of people buy from, or are some of those a lot better? I keep a wishlist on amazon to skim and see if anything drops in price periodically, but theres a ridiculous amount of undercutting on the "price" only to have shipping jacked up to like $95 to compensate, so it's pretty hard to keep an eye out for deals there. They seem about the same for me, but amazon can often get free shipping, so there's that. Just splurged and got an HGUC Sazabi and Sinanju, and RG freedom. Should be fun to build at work 
Meow Tse-tung fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jun 12, 2013 |
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Jun 12, 2013 18:12
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| # ? May 23, 2024 13:47 |
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BlitzBlast posted:Does anyone know if the generic MS hands are compatible with the old NG 1/144s? I'm thinking of picking up the Double X, but I really do not like the look of its hands. It's a pretty bad kit all around, and not just because it's old. Bandai was producing some real trash in the mid-90s. The DX is getting a quite excellent-looking Robot Damashii figure in July if you can stomach the ¥5000 price tag. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 00:19
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