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Pufflekins posted:I'm looking to go about 20' with a little lounge under the front. I'll definitely check out the local library. The thing has to be ocean faring though. You get what you pay for... probably worth buying a quality plan if you're making an ocean-faring vessel no?!
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Jun 4, 2013 23:18
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This is more like timber construction than woodworking, but it's pretty fun anyway. This is what I do at work everyday when I'm not rigging or running an excavator.   13' stringers, 3' sills. I can't stress how hard it is to dig log sills in perfectly level and square. Lots of roots, rocks and lifting 200lb sills. We knock out one of these in about 2 days, depending on timber availability near the site.
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Jun 4, 2013 23:26
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Guitarchitect posted:You get what you pay for... probably worth buying a quality plan if you're making an ocean-faring vessel no?! Plans are more for the layout and the look of the boat, more importantly, getting the structural bits for an inboard motor. Making it stand the ocean is a bit easier than "oops the engine mount wasn't strong enough and now we have glass bottom boat without the glass"
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Jun 4, 2013 23:34
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Pufflekins posted:I'm looking to go about 20' with a little lounge under the front. I'll definitely check out the local library. The thing has to be ocean faring though. There may not be free plans for boats that big. I'm on my phone but later ill try to find one site in particular that has a very good reputation. Honestly I'd be surprised if you found a book with anything beyond general information.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:12
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Guitarchitect posted:You get what you pay for... probably worth buying a quality plan if you're making an ocean-faring vessel no?! There are actually plenty of quality free boat plans and there is really nothing special about salt water boats. Boat building is a fairly common hobby.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:17
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Pufflekins posted:I'm looking to go about 20' with a little lounge under the front. I'll definitely check out the local library. The thing has to be ocean faring though. You are not getting an ocean-faring boat that is less than 40 feet. You can do coastal stuff in it MAYBE depending on your power package but hell loving no you wont get out to the ocean and get back alive.
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Jun 5, 2013 01:36
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This step-by-step shop reference, culled from the first six volumes of "Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guides," I have those first six volumes and they are excellent. The illustrations are very clear and they tend to give multiple examples of how to do the same thing using different tools. For example, it might show how to create a mitered half lap using a table saw and how to do it using a router. I don't know what is in that book, but I have read the source material and I'd say it (and pretty much anything from Taunton Press) is a pretty safe bet. 
Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 01:45
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iForge posted:You are not getting an ocean-faring boat that is less than 40 feet. You can do coastal stuff in it MAYBE depending on your power package but hell loving no you wont get out to the ocean and get back alive. I only plan on doing coastal boating. Just out to jig cod and the like. I'm not gonna go out to international waters and have a bullfight on the thing.
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Jun 5, 2013 02:05
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Hypnolobster posted:This is more like timber construction than woodworking, but it's pretty fun anyway. This is what I do at work everyday when I'm not rigging or running an excavator. What sort of chain are you using on that saw and what is that doowizzy guiding that saw and where can I buy it and how well does it work and have you ever cut your face off with it?
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Jun 5, 2013 02:12
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ChaoticSeven posted:What sort of chain are you using on that saw and what is that doowizzy guiding that saw and where can I buy it and how well does it work and have you ever cut your face off with it? They are often called "Alaskan Sawmills" and they are only I had a friend who cut exactly one log in half with one of those and took it back before the sawdust settled. **Disclaimer: I am not knocking people who use them, it's just that they should really be a last option.**
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Jun 5, 2013 04:53
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That particular kind isn't really an Alaskan mill, just an edging mill that we're using in a weird way. Alaskan generally refers to the horizontal mills. The biggest problem everyone has with chainsaw mills is the saw. You absolutely cannot use anything less than a 660 stihl or an equally big husky. A 660 is actually the minimum. A 880 is an improvement. The other big problem is you must absolutely use ripping chain. Other than that, the increased waste compared to a bandsaw mill is an issue, but a very minor one with regards to access. We work in the field, and you can't bring a bandsaw mill into the field on your shoulders and in backpacks. As for safety, chainsaws are dangerous, chainsaw mills are more dangerous, but not that much more dangerous if you actually know chainsaw safety and have real professional experience. Also, they can be fast as hell with the right saw and practice. Not bandsaw mill fast, but fast. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone as a first option, as they are expensive (when you add in the right saw) and most people shouldn't ever be anywhere near a chainsaw, but they totally kick rear end.
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Jun 5, 2013 11:43
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Pufflekins posted:Anyone have any good resources for boat plans? I thought this was a pretty good run thru when I built my boat. http://behank.com/projects/canoe/item/4-building-a-wood-strip-canoe-part-1.html Mister Dog fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 15:43
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Pufflekins posted:I'm looking to go about 20' with a little lounge under the front. I'll definitely check out the local library. The thing has to be ocean faring though. This site has been recommended a number of times on another forum. http://www.glen-l.com/boat-plans-catalog-300-boats-you-can-build/ Here is a site with free plans. Keep in mind these are from magazines/books and won't be full size with patterns like a pay site. http://svensons.com/boat/
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Jun 5, 2013 15:45
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Hypnolobster posted:That particular kind isn't really an Alaskan mill, just an edging mill that we're using in a weird way. Alaskan generally refers to the horizontal mills. I'd seen the Alaskan mills before, but not that edging thing. I only have a Stihl 460 too. I'm good with a saw, after all the firewood and bowl blank cutting I've done. The only real reason I'd want it is to rip whole slabs off a log at once then cut that into squares for mass bowl blank production. I get wood in fits and spurts so hiring a portable mill guy isn't practical. Everytime I ask about a ripping chain at a Stihl dealer they don't have them and say they don't really help anyway. These are the same guys that blue every chain I bring in and don't understand why that's bad no matter how many times I explain to them that they aren't high speed steel. Cuts great the first five seconds. I sharpen my own with a file, but I still get things out of wack after 10 or so sharpenings. My stuff tends to be yard trees so I end up hitting metal more than usual.
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Jun 5, 2013 19:56
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I just got an order of some remarkable birdseye maple in the mail from Wisconsin. 11" wide! This picture does the figure no justice. Cant wait to get it home and get a coat of paint on it.
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Jun 5, 2013 20:56
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mds2 posted:Cant wait to get it home and get a coat of paint on it. I recommend buying a cheap sheet of plywood, running it through a planer until you have just a rotary cut veneer and then laminating that on to your board there. THEN paint it.
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Jun 5, 2013 20:58
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I bought it from here http://www.bobkloes.com/ I had never bought wood online before but Bob was great to work with. His prices are pretty great, I paid $10/bf and shipping was reasonable. From talking with him he has thousands and thousands of board feet of figured lumber. Anything you would need. I've heard rumor that is where Charles Neil buys most of his wood.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:20
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mds2 posted:I bought it from here http://www.bobkloes.com/ I had never bought wood online before but Bob was great to work with. His prices are pretty great, I paid $10/bf and shipping was reasonable. From talking with him he has thousands and thousands of board feet of figured lumber. Anything you would need. I've heard rumor that is where Charles Neil buys most of his wood. I miss having a place like that near where I live. When I was in Des Moines, there was the wordsmith store (not to be confused with woodcraft, the somewhat-national chain) which stocked all sorts of cool woods and always had tons on hand. Here in Erie, though, I've found ONE place a ways out of town that stocks local hardwoods, and that's about it. :/
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Jun 5, 2013 21:27
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I have a local hardwood store here (Lincoln, NE). But they don't usually carry anything like this. Though they do have good variety of domestic and imported hardwoods. Bob's prices are much better. This is going to be a Krenov style (Krenovian??) whiskey cabinet for a friend in Chicago. A secret commission from his wife.
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Jun 5, 2013 21:36
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mds2 posted:I have a local hardwood store here (Lincoln, NE). But they don't usually carry anything like this. Though they do have good variety of domestic and imported hardwoods. Bob's prices are much better. quote:This is going to be a Krenov style (Krenovian??) whiskey cabinet for a friend in Chicago. A secret commission from his wife.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:06
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wormil posted:This site has been recommended a number of times on another forum. Thanks for the links. The latter is pretty much the only ones I could find. The main problem is because I just moved and don't have Internet yet so my search capabilities are limited.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:14
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ChaoticSeven posted:These are the same guys that blue every chain I bring in and don't understand why that's bad no matter how many times I explain to them that they aren't high speed steel. Cuts great the first five seconds.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:16
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iForge posted:You are not getting an ocean-faring boat that is less than 40 feet. You can do coastal stuff in it MAYBE depending on your power package but hell loving no you wont get out to the ocean and get back alive. Crossing oceans in 20'-30' sailboats is quite common. Look up the Flicka 20, Dana 24, Contessa 26. Below 20' is less common. Just cruising around the coast is no problem in a sub 20' boat. Also check out this, stitch and glue is the simple technique for boat building. http://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/boat-plans/pocketship-sailing-pocket-cruiser-kit.html
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Jun 5, 2013 23:42
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ChaoticSeven posted:I'd seen the Alaskan mills before, but not that edging thing. I only have a Stihl 460 too. I'm good with a saw, after all the firewood and bowl blank cutting I've done. The only real reason I'd want it is to rip whole slabs off a log at once then cut that into squares for mass bowl blank production. I get wood in fits and spurts so hiring a portable mill guy isn't practical. Everytime I ask about a ripping chain at a Stihl dealer they don't have them and say they don't really help anyway. These are the same guys that blue every chain I bring in and don't understand why that's bad no matter how many times I explain to them that they aren't high speed steel. Cuts great the first five seconds. I've used them before, and I'd say your case would be one of the only good uses for one. The 460 will do it, but if you have an adjustable oiler turn it up a lot. Let it cool down for several minutes between cuts. Also, ripping chain is usually just a regular chain sharpened at only 5-10 degrees across the top.
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Jun 6, 2013 00:29
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Hi all, Sorry if this sort of thing has been covered already. I tried searching and didn't find what I was looking for. I have basically no experience in woodworking (unless reading woodworking forums and watching youtube videos obsessively for the past couple weeks counts), and I want to make a bed. I'm going for what I hope is a fairly straightforward design:  I have a few questions:
Thanks in advance! dik-dik fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 06:16
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1. You'll probably be fine although I would recommend a couple smaller projects to get your feet wet. You will make mistakes, everyone does, and will make more in the beginning than later. 3. Since you have limited tools, look for S4S (surfaced 4 sides) lumber. That just means they have planed it down from rough. Hardwood is sold by the board foot in 1/4" thick increments called... quarters. So 4/4 (four quarter) is 1" thick in the rough and between 3/4"-7/8" if it's S4S. 6/4 = 1.5", 8/4 = 2" thick, etc. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Board_foot Use solid wood for the horizontal slats, it is stronger and stiffer than ply. Fir or spruce would be a good choice. 4. Bolts are a good idea, they are strong and break down easy for moving but I'm a little skeptical of how those sides hang out there with little support.
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Jun 6, 2013 07:27
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wormil posted:I'm a little skeptical of how those sides hang out there with little support.
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Jun 6, 2013 08:10
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Frogmanv2 posted:I reckon you would need some additional feet / support in the middle of the bed as well, to prevent sagging For reference I replaced the cheapo beam on my ikea bed with a single 2x4 and it's fine.
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Jun 6, 2013 14:50
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Thanks a lot, guys! Maybe I'll build a matching nightstand first or something, and if that goes well, get on with the bed, and if it doesn't, build another first. As for the sides hanging out there with no support: I've also been thinking of going with a design more like this one (without the storage underneath). That would be a bit sturdier, right? Although it might be trickier to build it in a way that easily brakes down? Also: Would a kreg jig work for tapping the threads? In the wood whisperer video, he used a drill press, which I obviously don't have. And would bolts work well at angles like that or are they best done straight-on?
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Jun 6, 2013 15:56
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Pufflekins posted:Thanks for the links. The latter is pretty much the only ones I could find. The main problem is because I just moved and don't have Internet yet so my search capabilities are limited. Speaking of Glen-L boats... http://lumberjocks.com/projects/85333 
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Jun 6, 2013 18:15
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Not sure if this belongs here or not, but can anyone tell me what's the best way to repair damage like this in a laminate floor? I have a bunch of spare laminate tiles from when the floor was laid down, but I was told it would look different and you might break a lot of the neighboring ones getting the broken ones out.
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Jun 6, 2013 19:08
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wormil posted:Speaking of Glen-L boats... If I have to cave and buy a plan it'll definitely be a Glen-L one. They have some real nice boats.
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Jun 6, 2013 21:56
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I finally got a chance to go to my buddies place to make some mitre cuts for the coffee table top, so I can start working on that again, hopefully get it to the point I can stain it next week. While I was I started building a marking knife and a bottle opener. I still have to finish the marking knife and do an inlay on the bottle opener, so no pics yet. This badboy popped up on kijiji, no description, prices or pictures. I went and saw it today and the old guy sold it to me for $60. He had a couple strokes and hasn't used it in a few years, he seemed happy to pass it on. It's a Rockwell/Beaver 3400, it came with some round flat faces(on shelf), are these for bowls? Is there anything I should check and do general maintenance on before I start using it?? It seems to be in great shape, no rust, just a bit of sawdust on it. Any knife recommendations? I want to try making bottle stoppers and key chains to start, maybe some pens. Then try a pepper mill or two. My girlfriend's Dad just cut down a maple, so I'm going to get some big chunks from him to maybe try turning into bowls too! What's the difference between a dead centre and live centre? How do I know what I have? Should I buy a particular type? I put a piece of cedar on it to watch it spin, I've had it less than 2 hours and it's killing me I can't use it! Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 01:15
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asdf32 posted:Crossing oceans in 20'-30' sailboats is quite common. Look up the Flicka 20, Dana 24, Contessa 26. Below 20' is less common. Just cruising around the coast is no problem in a sub 20' boat. Since you want to be pedantic about my post, I'll rephrase. He isn't getting an ocean-faring boat under 40 feet that is homemade when he is too cheap to pay for a good set of loving plans.
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Jun 7, 2013 02:47
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Meow Meow Meow posted:
Nice price! Lathes are very simple machines. You should probably replace the bearings although if it runs without excessive noise there is no hurry. The first thing I did on both of mine was completely disassemble the head and tail stocks, just to inspect the bearings and make sure everything looked good. From what I can see, you have a dead center, meaning it is stationary, the wood turns but the dead center does not. You probably have a cup (dead) center which will have a rim with a point in the center that may be removable. On a live center, both wood and center spin. You can google the terms and see what they look like. Other than that, slide the tailstock up to the headstock and see if the centerpoints align. If you decide to buy a live center, look at littlemachineshop.com; their prices are very reasonable and they ship super fast.
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Jun 7, 2013 09:48
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Hey all, O woodworking hive mind. I need some advice. I've got a couple of plans in the works that will need a jigsaw -- which, shockingly, I don't have. I'd like some opinions that DON'T come from the pages of the manufacturers. My drill set is a Bosch, and I'd generally like to stay in the Bosch/DeWalt quality zone. The one concern I have is that the jigsaw be capable of cutting both wood and metal (say, 14 gauge steel). Any particular recommendations? I'm primarily thinking Dewalt DCS331B (cordless), Dewalt DW331K (cord), ]Bosch Bare-Tool JSH180B (cordless) or Bosch JS470E (corded) -- all in the $125–160 range via Amazon. What's the take on the non-standard "ball top" grip vs. the more traditional "iron handle" grip? And what's the consensus on cordless? Do they *really* have long-term ooph and staying power? Effingham fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 15:15
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I dont have a jig saw either but pretty much all of them can cut wood and metal. That all comes down to the blade. I would look for one with variable speed and stroke length.
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Jun 7, 2013 15:21
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I have no complaints about my cordless dewalt. Admittedly, I don't use it a ton, but again, zero complaints so far. If you already have some cordless bosch stuff (you mentioned your drill set?) I would recommend sticking with that just for the interchangeable batteries, if you go cordless. Having a bank of chargers/batteries ready to go largely alleviates the usual "crap my battery's dead" ordeal.
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Jun 7, 2013 15:40
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iForge posted:Since you want to be pedantic about my post, I'll rephrase. Don't be an rear end, there are plenty of good free plans out there for everything. Who's to say someone didn't know of any good plans for a boat.
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Jun 7, 2013 20:25
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Bad Munki posted:I have no complaints about my cordless dewalt. Admittedly, I don't use it a ton, but again, zero complaints so far. Oh, good point. Okay, Bosch it is! Ta much!
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Jun 7, 2013 20:56
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