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Ryuga Death posted:So checking the BIOS gives an accurate reading, then? Is 12.429 anything to worry about? From your range, it seems like I'm ok. It's a high-quality unit (albeit 7 years old now), so unless there's problems at load that could be pinned down to power issues it's probably fine - consider replacing it due to the age though. future ghost fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 19:13
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My networking setup has been reasonable enough for my solo and mostly wired life but with a new roommate who does a lot of wireless television streaming, I'm wondering if I can do better. After investigating whether my equipment or Comcast was to blame last night I came across two possible culprits: 1. My (wired) Netgear GS108T switch. It was HOT! That can't be good. I flipped it to the side and overnight I'm guessing it was 20 degrees cooler. As of now, if the kitchen heat gun thermometer is to be believed, the case is currently 93 degrees. 2. My D-Link DIR 655 WAP. It always seemed a bit persnickety when it was largely the lone router in a house and now that I'm in an apartment complex with a good 4-5 other WAPs broadcasting, seems to not be much better. It seems to work well for hours at a time then it can experience an hour or so of awfulness ranging from low to no traffic. Is this WAP known for being crappy or could it just be conflicts with the others in the building? What are the current recommendations (or resources to find them) for good gigabit switches and WAPs? I did a quick hunt on Amazon for gigabit switches and came across reviews that were only as recent as 2011 so I'm not exactly sure where to look.
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Jun 3, 2013 19:46
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You might get a better response in the home networking thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3442319 That said http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-GREENnet-Standard-1000Mbps/dp/B001QUA6RA/ref=zg_bs_281414_3 looks like a good switch that won't be a million degrees if you worry about that sort of thing (some switches run hot) Your D-Link thing there seems like it has ok reviews. Might try changing the channels on it, 4-5 other APs doesn't sound like a lot but maybe there is one right next to you on the same channel. Or if you're just pissed at it, pick up something from the recommendations in the OP of the networking thread. Dogen fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 19:50
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Thanks for the recommendation for both thread and switch. I'll copy my post there.
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Jun 3, 2013 20:00
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 Okay here is what I got when I ran the BlueScreenView thing. Any guesses? cmykJester fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jun 3, 2013 |
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Jun 3, 2013 21:55
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cmykjester posted:
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Jun 3, 2013 22:13
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LCD Deathpanel posted:Looks like you're probably using too much. Clean it off the heatsink & CPU with rubbing alcohol and try again. You only really need like a grain of rice-sized bit. Make sure the CPU heatsink is fully-secured by all 4 pegs. Doing both of these things has fixed my problem. Thank you
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Jun 3, 2013 22:15
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I can't file some sort of claim against a hard drive manufacturer when their disks fail after less than 10 days of ownership, ruining all the files backed to that device in the process, can I? I bought a WD Elements external a few days ago to replace an old hard drive that was failing, and it just died mysteriously for no reason. Gets blinking lights when plugged in and isn't detected. What the poo poo? Are these things supposed to die after a few days of use? Google searches indicate many people have had the same problem.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:38
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BabyRyoga posted:I can't file some sort of claim against a hard drive manufacturer when their disks fail after less than 10 days of ownership, ruining all the files backed to that device in the process, can I? I bought a WD Elements external a few days ago to replace an old hard drive that was failing, and it just died mysteriously for no reason. Gets blinking lights when plugged in and isn't detected. What the poo poo? Are these things supposed to die after a few days of use? Nope though it should be well under warranty. poo poo like that happens unfortunately and is part of the reason RAID != backup and other mantras exist. Spinny disks are inherently failable unfortunately and the only way to be truly safe is to have many of them in many different places, which is where online backup solutions come into play. Let them deal with the geographic separation + replacing spinny things, you just worry about your upload speed.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:55
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I'm going through a support ticket with EVGA for my video card artifacting, they told me to monitor my +12v. I'm idling at 12.024v and under load in Battlefield 3 it was down to 11.736v. Previously while monitoring, it had gone down to 11.6**v. I forget what the numbers were exactly, and I forgot to write them down. Is this voltage fluctuation within reason? According to EVGA:EVGA posted:A healthy reading (official ATX spec) is between 11.4 - 12.6v, and stable. However, different brands have different tolerances for overvolting and under volting, if it is outside 11.9v and 12.30v, or if you observe consistent fluctuations of more than .05 volts then this may be a sign of concern for a degraded or failing +12v rail. I have an Antec EarthWatts EA-650 Green. It apparently has a 3 year warranty, so if it's actually busted, then at least I can get it replaced...
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Jun 6, 2013 08:41
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movax posted:Nope though it should be well under warranty. poo poo like that happens unfortunately and is part of the reason RAID != backup and other mantras exist. Spinny disks are inherently failable unfortunately and the only way to be truly safe is to have many of them in many different places, which is where online backup solutions come into play. Let them deal with the geographic separation + replacing spinny things, you just worry about your upload speed. At this point, i'm just gonna return it to the store for a refund and avoid dealing with more externals. I got it from Fry's, which means I have either a 15 or 30 day period to return it for a refund, and it was purchased 13 days ago, which leaves me either 2 days or 17 days to attempt data recovery. I'll have to call tomorrow, and figure it out. In the meanwhile, gonna make a thread in the troubleshooting sub forum to see what I can do about recovering these files.
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Jun 6, 2013 09:23
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dog nougat posted:I'm going through a support ticket with EVGA for my video card artifacting, they told me to monitor my +12v. I'm idling at 12.024v and under load in Battlefield 3 it was down to 11.736v. Previously while monitoring, it had gone down to 11.6**v. I forget what the numbers were exactly, and I forgot to write them down. Is this voltage fluctuation within reason? According to EVGA: Actually, that's plausible for a PSU failure. You're getting a surprising amount of +12V Vdroop for that PSU, assuming it's the exact same model and revision as in JonnyGuru's review. The review unit there dropped from 12.04V at idle to only 11.98V at full load, better-than-1% +12V regulation; your unit is showing ~3.5% regulation, nearly an order of magnitude worse. E: Same deal if it's the newer model with the green casing and 80+ Bronze rating. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 13:36
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What's the easiest/safest way of cleaning off old thermal paste from CPUs and coolers?
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Jun 6, 2013 17:24
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ijyt posted:What's the easiest/safest way of cleaning off old thermal paste from CPUs and coolers? A high-percentage isopropyl rubbing alcohol, I'd prefer 70% or more, combined with a coffee filter or paper towel that won't leave fibers behind will do just fine.
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Jun 6, 2013 17:27
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CrystalDiskInfo is showing warnings for a friend's laptop I just borrowed. Reallocated Sectors Count and Current Pending Sector Count are both 100. My question: is it gonna die in the very near future? Not sure if I should return the laptop immediately, or just order a cheapish hdd online and back up the essentials on some dvds. The HDD temperature is also 58c, but some canned air will probably fix that. Edit: Now 62c on idle, definitely need to get some canned air. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 10:29
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Fruits of the sea posted:CrystalDiskInfo is showing warnings for a friend's laptop I just borrowed. Reallocated Sectors Count and Current Pending Sector Count are both 100. My question: is it gonna die in the very near future? Not sure if I should return the laptop immediately, or just order a cheapish hdd online and back up the essentials on some dvds.
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Jun 7, 2013 16:14
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Alereon posted:Check the raw error counts in the column at the right. If you have more than one error, I'd call your friend immediately and say you noticed the HDD was on its way out and ask what they want to do. (If it helps the whole "it was fine when I gave it to you" thing you could maybe use the analogy of checking the diagnostic computer in a car?) I'd look at the Seagate SSHD (Solid-State Hybrid Drive) options, they are about the same price as your average slow laptop drive but perform like fast desktop drives. Thanks, the raw error count is 2. I got a call back from the friend and apparently he just forgot to tell me about the hard drive, so I guess it's been limping along like this for a while. I've since discovered that the dvd drive is busted and the sound is acting up, so I think it's fair to say that the laptop has led a very hard life.
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Jun 7, 2013 16:40
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I finally have committed to moving my desk back to my office instead of in the common area, this presents one problem. I also use one of the workstations as a HTPC to stream to my television - wired, obviously. I am not going to be able to run cable because the office is on the other side of the apartment (so I cant roll my own in the walls, etc), and I'm in Florida and have tile floors, so no hiding the cable there. Streaming over WiFi is terrible, so I was thinking about the 'ethernet over the powerline' approach. Does anyone have any recommendations? Is it a viable option? ninja edit: maybe should have posted this in the networking thread, if there is one. eightysixed fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 19:08
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I've had good success/wife-acceptance factor by simply using white cat5 and a little adhesive to glue the cord along baseboards, or those wire clips. I'm also going to quote you to a friend's wife who forbids cables "I stream from a workstation to my TV, wired, obviously." That's gold, might push her into accepting a single Cat6 run that's basically invisible, finally. Streaming over wireless sounds awful.
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Jun 7, 2013 20:14
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eightysixed posted:I finally have committed to moving my desk back to my office instead of in the common area, this presents one problem. I also use one of the workstations as a HTPC to stream to my television - wired, obviously. I am not going to be able to run cable because the office is on the other side of the apartment (so I cant roll my own in the walls, etc), and I'm in Florida and have tile floors, so no hiding the cable there. Streaming over WiFi is terrible, so I was thinking about the 'ethernet over the powerline' approach. Does anyone have any recommendations? Is it a viable option? Depends on a lot of variables really, main one being modern and good quality cabling in your house.
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Jun 7, 2013 20:26
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Experto Crede posted:Depends on a lot of variables really, main one being modern and good quality cabling in your house. The building is quite new. I can't comment on the quality of the internal wiring though. I guess, can someone recommend the most efficient/cost-effective hardware?
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Jun 7, 2013 20:29
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eightysixed posted:The building is quite new. I can't comment on the quality of the internal wiring though. I guess, can someone recommend the most efficient/cost-effective hardware?
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Jun 8, 2013 02:33
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How likely would it be that if my video card was knocked out of the MOBO and partially bent in the process that it would be damaged? I can't test anything because I need to leave it as-is for the inspector. edit: If you're curious about the rest of my computer
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Jun 8, 2013 21:57
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Elysiume posted:How likely would it be that if my video card was knocked out of the MOBO and partially bent in the process that it would be damaged? I can't test anything because I need to leave it as-is for the inspector. Did you ship it? Heavy video cards will come loose during shipping. In the old days some builders would put a dab of hot glue on the AGP connector to hold the card in.
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Jun 8, 2013 22:10
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Bob Morales posted:Did you ship it? Heavy video cards will come loose during shipping. In the old days some builders would put a dab of hot glue on the AGP connector to hold the card in. edit: Also, it didn't just come loose, it's bent. And it came out with enough force to tear out the SATA connectors (at least I assume that's what did it). Elysiume fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jun 8, 2013 |
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Jun 8, 2013 22:13
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Alereon posted:Check the raw error counts in the column at the right. If you have more than one error, I'd call your friend immediately and say you noticed the HDD was on its way out and ask what they want to do. (If it helps the whole "it was fine when I gave it to you" thing you could maybe use the analogy of checking the diagnostic computer in a car?) I'd look at the Seagate SSHD (Solid-State Hybrid Drive) options, they are about the same price as your average slow laptop drive but perform like fast desktop drives. A follow-up to this: Will an SSHD work ok with a five year-old laptop? It's currently running Windows 7 and what appears to be a SATA 2 hard drive. The laptop is a Clevo M860TU. I'm looking at replacing it with this: http://www.computersalg.dk/produkt/616000/seagate-laptop-thin-sshd-hybrid-harddi Laptop's eventually gonna die, but I figure I'll just move the drive into an enclosure and use it for games and media.
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Jun 8, 2013 22:40
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Fruits of the sea posted:A follow-up to this: Will an SSHD work ok with a five year-old laptop? It's currently running Windows 7 and what appears to be a SATA 2 hard drive. The laptop is a Clevo M860TU.
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Jun 8, 2013 22:49
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Elysiume posted:How likely would it be that if my video card was knocked out of the MOBO and partially bent in the process that it would be damaged? I can't test anything because I need to leave it as-is for the inspector. Your graphics card is almost inevitably hosed. Your motherboard is certainly hosed. Looking at the damage, your hard drive could be pretty unhealthy right now. The only salvageable parts will doubtless be the processor and memory. Don't try to power it on or you could very well make it so even they aren't.
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Jun 8, 2013 22:57
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Pretty stupid question: does upgrading a cpu (but keeping the mobo) require a fresh OS install? Most Google results assume I want to replace my MoBo as well... Going from a Intel G620 to 3470, so pretty sure my P8Z77 should be fine.
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Jun 9, 2013 00:14
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Any time you ship a case like that it's always a good idea to take all major components (HSF/HDD's/GPU) out of the case and then fill it with something non-conductive and that won't create/spread static. Also, go overboard with packing since FedEx/UPS will drop poo poo occasionally or stuff can get knocked around in sorting. Shipping with a tower cooler in place is a guaranteed way to gently caress up your motherboard if things go even a little bit south. When I shipped a PC build to my uncle recently, everything ended up mostly intact, although the only components that might've moved were the SSD & HDD which were secured via screws instead of via the tool-less clips. Reggie Died posted:Pretty stupid question: does upgrading a cpu (but keeping the mobo) require a fresh OS install? Most Google results assume I want to replace my MoBo as well... future ghost fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jun 9, 2013 |
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Jun 9, 2013 00:15
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I decided to pull out my wireless 360 controller for Windows (a device most of the internet doesn't even seem to know exists, including most of MS's support pages) for the first time in a few weeks, and it doesn't work at all anymore. The light on the receiver doesn't even light up, so there's nothing for the controller itself to find. Reading around, the only thing that is somewhat close is the idea that it sucks too much USB power and won't run if any other USB devices are plugged in, but I have tried it as the only USB device plugged in, in three different USB ports. Is it possible it's just dead? Would there be any way to check?
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Jun 9, 2013 02:41
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Samurai Sanders posted:I decided to pull out my wireless 360 controller for Windows (a device most of the internet doesn't even seem to know exists, including most of MS's support pages) for the first time in a few weeks, and it doesn't work at all anymore. The light on the receiver doesn't even light up, so there's nothing for the controller itself to find. Reading around, the only thing that is somewhat close is the idea that it sucks too much USB power and won't run if any other USB devices are plugged in, but I have tried it as the only USB device plugged in, in three different USB ports. Is it possible it's just dead? Would there be any way to check? Plugging it into a 360 should confirm whether it works or not, the Windows controllers are also compatible with consoles.
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Jun 9, 2013 02:49
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Fruits of the sea posted:Plugging it into a 360 should confirm whether it works or not, the Windows controllers are also compatible with consoles.
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Jun 9, 2013 02:51
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I can see why "bring it to a friend's place" might not be a possible solution.
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Jun 9, 2013 02:53
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Factory Factory posted:I can see why "bring it to a friend's place" might not be a possible solution. edit: I am sorry I snapped though, it just seemed like a really weird supposition and I was frustrated to begin with. I don't understand how this receiver went from working to not working while just sitting in my closet. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jun 9, 2013 |
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Jun 9, 2013 02:54
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In a similar vein to the CrystalDiskInfo post made a little while ago, my main drive is also showing a Reallocated Sectors Count warning. Now I know that this is a bad sign, but it this warning has stayed exactly the same for at least 2 years, which was when I first found out about CrystalDiskInfo. To be on the safe side, I'm going to order a new hard drive. SSDs are still too expensive for me, so I'm looking at a mechanical HD. Are the WD black drives any good? They seem to be one of the few drives left with 5 year warranties that don't cost $300. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, the bad drive is still under warranty. However, I used SeaTools to scan the drive and all the tests passed. Has anyone ever gotten a warranty replacement even though it passed the manufacturer's tests? I'd hate to send the drat thing off and not get a new one.
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Jun 9, 2013 04:56
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One Nut Wonder posted:In a similar vein to the CrystalDiskInfo post made a little while ago, my main drive is also showing a Reallocated Sectors Count warning. Use that code and they'll replace it without problems, but you can also put a printout of the CDI screenshot in the box if you want to be sure. future ghost fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Jun 10, 2013 |
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Jun 9, 2013 06:36
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I'm looking for some opinions on good DVD-R stock to use as a master for multimedia projects that require mass duplication, and a reliable single speed (1x) burner. This isn't for me personally, but the company I work for just got burned with a couple of fuckups at the dupe plant and so I've been tasked with getting this info for my boss. We very, very rarely do any projects that require mass duplication but we're had some real issues in the last week and it's looking like the culprit is our current media/burner combo which is just standard consumer bargain bin stuff.
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Jun 10, 2013 15:05
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thunderspanks posted:I'm looking for some opinions on good DVD-R stock to use as a master for multimedia projects that require mass duplication, and a reliable single speed (1x) burner. This isn't for me personally, but the company I work for just got burned with a couple of fuckups at the dupe plant and so I've been tasked with getting this info for my boss. We very, very rarely do any projects that require mass duplication but we're had some real issues in the last week and it's looking like the culprit is our current media/burner combo which is just standard consumer bargain bin stuff.
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Jun 10, 2013 15:35
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Alereon posted:Is there some reason you were burning at 1X or did someone think that gave you better burning quality? (It doesn't.) I think the correct answer here is cheap consumer Lite-On SATA burners with the latest firmware and good quality DVD-Rs, burning at the recommended speed. While Lite-On drives are inexpensive, many more expensive drives are rebranded Lite-Ons and "professional" equipment has Lite-On inside. Back when I was buying DVD-Rs the best option was RiData, though that was a couple years back, I bought a few hundred and haven't needed to get more. Didn't old drives (CD at least) have problems reading 'fast' burned discs? I remember installing Linux on older machines and it wouldn't pick the disc up right if you went over 8x etc.
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Jun 10, 2013 15:40
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