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Slavvy posted:EFI bikes tend to be worse, in my experience, because they usually have some sort of EGR/PAIR system that burns excess hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream. My 919 was terrible after de-baffling until I disabled the system. I disabled the PAIR on my bike and it still pops just as much. Meh.
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Jun 5, 2013 04:33
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Are suspension upgrades for a standard 2012 street triple worth it for road use? I am not tracking it at all (maybe once or twice), and I don't exactly ride hard on the street in the first place. I want to buy myself a mod for the bike as a reward and, as much as I love the sounds, exhausts seem so useless. But I don't want to drop tons of cash on suspension and setup if it's not going to really make a difference on the road. I am currently 260 pounds, although I would be getting this at more 230 pounds, hence the reward. From what I read the stock suspension is at the top end of usability, but I never know if that is just bullshit or not.
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Jun 5, 2013 05:09
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I'm no racer but I tend to make my mods with comfort and convenience in mind, not any perceived performance gain. I ride a bargain bin yamaha fz6 with all bargain bin parts and I still have yet to out ride the bike on the street.
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Jun 5, 2013 05:29
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I'd just respring for your weight. Rear should be ok, front will need stiffer springs.
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Jun 5, 2013 07:57
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nsaP posted:I'm no racer but I tend to make my mods with comfort and convenience in mind, not any perceived performance gain. I ride a bargain bin yamaha fz6 with all bargain bin parts and I still have yet to out ride the bike on the street. Yeah, me neither, I was looking at the suspension improvement as more of a safety/performance thing. If it was going to make the bike act significantly better even without pushing it or under emergency braking or something. Not so much about going faster around a corner, but just better at the same speed if I encountered a bump or pothole. Z3n posted:I'd just respring for your weight. Rear should be ok, front will need stiffer springs. That would definitely make it cheaper. I thought I would need to do something more drastic to the front, that's what I get for reading about everyone doing Daytona swaps. Thanks for the advice.
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Jun 5, 2013 10:29
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What's the difference between putting motor oil in my gears and putting gear oil in (KTM 530)? My manual says 'gear oil' and that's it. Just those two words. The KTM dealership says run the same 10w-50 valvoline wet clutch oil that I use in the crank. I just did a change with 10w-30 and it came out still amber! But there was metal in it and I've never ever had metal come out of a gear case on me. We put ATF in all our two strokes growing up and that seemed to work out well. I should mention that I ride the HELL out of my bike. Lots of trails and wheelies. So ATF or motor oil?
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Jun 5, 2013 20:23
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I use whatever 10w40 I have left over from topping up the XL175 in my DT175's gearbox. My Buell has a magnetic primary/gearbox drain plug, and I usually get a few shavings on it when I change it out. I use 50 weight mineral-based oil in that one. A little metal probably isn't a huge deal. How old is the bike?
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Jun 5, 2013 20:33
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'09 and I wasn't talking about the grey muck that sticks on the magnet, I had a few bits of metal about a quarter centimeter long.
ChewedFood fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jun 5, 2013 |
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Jun 5, 2013 20:37
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ChewedFood posted:What's the difference between putting motor oil in my gears and putting gear oil in (KTM 530)? My manual says 'gear oil' and that's it. Just those two words. The KTM dealership says run the same 10w-50 valvoline wet clutch oil that I use in the crank. I've been using this chart when oil weight questions come up. Gear oil isn't on the same scale as engine oil. fake edit: not that chart exactly, the one I have has "ATF" over on the left side. It ranges from 5-7 on the kinematic viscosity at 100C, so about 15W to 20 crankcase oil.
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Jun 5, 2013 22:12
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My ZRX has developed a slight hesitation at low rpm. It isn't noticeable when you're moving, and doesn't appear to affect power but it's been raining so I can't really dong it up properly and find out. I tried to take a video but it's more pronounced sometimes than others; engine temperature doesn't appear to affect it. It's basically around 2000rpm and it's most noticeable when you first blip the throttle after starting the bike, or when you're juggling throttle and clutch to take off slowly or up a hill or what have you. It's an easily detected roughness and it 'feels' fuel related; even my boss (who has never ridden a street bike) noticed it immediately. The engine used to be butter-smooth even at the lowest revs and I don't recall it doing this prior to my crash. Is this something that could be caused by dropping the bike at low speed? It's been sitting for a few weeks but I've ridden it a couple of times a week extensively and I've been riding it to work the past four days. Does this seem like something obvious? I really, really, reallyreallyreally don't want to have to take out the carbs to diagnose this because it's a hellish nightmare. 
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Jun 7, 2013 07:35
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Could be that the crash dislodged some gunk which partially clogged a pilot jet. Or a small vacuum leak has started. Or that the carbs (throttle bodies?) are slightly out of sync. That's how I noticed I'm due for a carb sync, when it feels slightly hoarse and rough at small throttle openings.
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Jun 7, 2013 11:19
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Slavvy posted:My ZRX has developed a slight hesitation at low rpm. It isn't noticeable when you're moving, and doesn't appear to affect power but it's been raining so I can't really dong it up properly and find out. I tried to take a video but it's more pronounced sometimes than others; engine temperature doesn't appear to affect it. It's basically around 2000rpm and it's most noticeable when you first blip the throttle after starting the bike, or when you're juggling throttle and clutch to take off slowly or up a hill or what have you. Before stripping carbs, check some other neighboring suspects. Clean/oil the air filter, which may have gotten gunked up with debris in your crash such that it's making the engine run a bit rich. Also do a pilot circuit plug chop to check your mixture. Basically, ride around for 20 minutes keeping the throttle low (like idle - 1/4), finish the ride at home and as you pull up to your driveway/garage/underpass pull the clutch and hit the kill switch, then coast to a stop. Pull plugs and see what they tell you. Dark and sooty = rich; white = lean. Depending on the carbs, you can probably correct the mixture with some screw adjustments, unless the pilot is clogged. You might have some luck with dumping some Seafoam into the tank and riding it hard to clean the pilot. Finally, if your ignition timing is adjustable, check the forward timing. It could be slightly off, but still OK at the advance stage, which would give stumbles at low RPM that fade away after about 2500 RPM where ignition gets to the advance range. HTH
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Jun 7, 2013 15:44
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Are the trackside front and rear stands from Cycle Gear worth a poo poo?
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Jun 7, 2013 17:40
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DJCobol posted:Are the trackside front and rear stands from Cycle Gear worth a poo poo? Metal tube is metal tube, it all depends if they're universal stands or need bobbins or whatever for the rear. I prefer those over the universal swingarm lifter type.
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Jun 7, 2013 18:42
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I have a question about riding etequette. I usually ride a little faster when I'm on the highway and occasionally I'll catch up to another motorcycle going slower but still passingby traffic. I've had other riders point to the left side of the lane we're riding in and then wave me by letting me pass him within the lane we're both in. What I'm asking is, would this be a propper manuver without being waved through. If I just up and pass another motorcycle in the same lane that I'm in is that a dick move or completely acceptable? I've never pulled this move on anybody without being waved by but I was wondering if that is a common occurance. I've been riding for about 7 years but very few of my friends ride, and ones that do ride only put about 200 miles a season on their bikes so I'm looking for a group of experienced riders to bounce this question off of and this seems like a good place to start.
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Jun 7, 2013 19:50
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Nah, that's a dick move. You have no idea if the person saw you so suddenly blasting by in their own lane is either going to scare the poo poo out of them if they haven't seen you or piss them off that some dickhead just passed them in their own lane. Probably both. It's unsafe at best so I'd wait for the wave. I usually don't get close to riders I don't know since you have no idea how they'll react. At best I'll stay staggered from them if I don't wanna take a lot of room up in traffic.
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Jun 7, 2013 19:54
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I wouldn't do it. It's been done to me, and it's pretty surprising/distracting/disorienting. Plus, what if they're about to shift position in the lane - you pretty much have no way of anticipating that.
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Jun 7, 2013 19:57
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bigbillystyle posted:I have a question about riding etequette. I usually ride a little faster when I'm on the highway and occasionally I'll catch up to another motorcycle going slower but still passingby traffic. I've had other riders point to the left side of the lane we're riding in and then wave me by letting me pass him within the lane we're both in. Ì think its fine to pass as long as there's room and you don't hang around in their blindspot or blow by a few inches from them. they're just another vehicle. Lane splitting/filtering is legal here though so bikers are more used to sharing a lane.
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Jun 7, 2013 20:06
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JP Money posted:Nah, that's a dick move. You have no idea if the person saw you so suddenly blasting by in their own lane is either going to scare the poo poo out of them if they haven't seen you or piss them off that some dickhead just passed them in their own lane. Probably both. That is kind of what I figured the most common answer would be but I was just wondering if it were a common practice. If I were to do it without permission I'd probably be a little more easy going than just blasting by but in the grand scheme of things its not that important to get there 2 minutes quicker instead of waiting for an area to pass with a proper lane change. The second half of your statement is kind of a follow up question I guess. Usually if I do catch another rider and end up in a position where we're riding together for a while I just stagger myself from them and ride a ways back from them until we get to a point where I can get by politely and I was wondering if that was also the proper riding etequette or if really just doesn't matter where I position myself in the lane so long as I'm not right ontop of the other person?
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Jun 7, 2013 20:40
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Try not to hide in their blindspot - there's nothing I hate more than a rider who is hanging out directly behind me, I don't know if you're an experienced rider or a new squid about to try and snack on my rear tire. Also, I wouldn't pass in lane without some indication that it's ok. Sometimes this leads to splitting around someone in a different lane, but that's a CA problem.
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Jun 7, 2013 20:45
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It's best to stagger so you're more visible in their mirrors. Being right behind them is being in a blind spot. It also gives you a better view of any traffic / obstacles ahead. But maintain a good following distance, again to stay out of blind spots and have time to react. Really though all of this can be answered with, treat a bike like another car. Imagine a car-shaped box around it, don't enter that box, give it the following distance and the room you would give a momwagon. Snowdens Secret fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 20:47
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I've both waved past, and been waved past by, people while in the fast lane of the motorway. In both circumstances the person being passed (me or them) moved over to the right of the lane and allowed the other rider to pass in the same lane, or gave them more than enough space to filter past. Generally this has only taken place in traffic. On an open road, if someone comes up on me quick and looks like they want to go faster than me, I move over to the center or left lane to let them pass as soon as I notice them, as is proper. I've never been undertaken or passed by another rider in the same lane on an open road, but UK riders and drivers are pretty good about lane discipline. UK goons will laugh at that, but they've probably never had the pleasure of living and driving in the GTA. Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jun 7, 2013 |
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Jun 7, 2013 21:02
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Linedance posted:but they've probably never had the pleasure of living and driving in the GTA. Ain't that the truth 
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Jun 7, 2013 21:04
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Z3n posted:Try not to hide in their blindspot - there's nothing I hate more than a rider who is hanging out directly behind me, I don't know if you're an experienced rider or a new squid about to try and snack on my rear tire. Interestingly here most riders move into an available spot between cars if you come up behind them. Because I split the same length of road every single day I tend to do it faster than 90% of the other riders I run into (no pun intended). The vast majority of the time, when they detect me behind them they pull into a gap to let me past and I give them a wave. The other 9% of the time I have to change to the other splitting corridor and bypass them. The last 1% of the time it's a person on a GSX-R 600 and they take it personally and decide to instigate some sort of half-baked race along the motorway wherein I zoom off, slow down for traffic and they come up and tailgate me a couple of minutes later. Rinse and repeat ad infinitum.
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Jun 7, 2013 23:20
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I have the opposite problem - I split through the same sections of freeway ever day and generally move a bit quicker through the split than your typical squid, as I'm rather comfortable with the dimensions of my bike and they're...not. But they're totally willing to do 75 in a 50 zone, which I'm not. So if traffic clears up for a bit, they're all over me, but if things get more busy I'm stuck behind them as they randomly brake, accelerate, and swerve to avoid mirrors that they have plenty of space to clear. Anyone who comes up behind me gets waved past, if I catch up to you in tight traffic I'm not going to wave you by twice though.
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Jun 7, 2013 23:57
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I'm actually getting false neutrals between 5th and 6th on my 690. Something to be worried about or should I just be "firmer" in my shifting? The gearbox on this thing is really much much worse than on the DRZ, I must say. My 690 does the same thing, and Google suggests that it's pretty normal for the LC4 engine. It's literally only between 5th and 6th, right?
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Jun 8, 2013 08:54
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Does anybody know some good repair shops / mechanics around Worcester MA? My Superhawk died on me today and I'm at loss for what it could be. I went out for a ride Thursday and everything was fine, the weather cleared up today so I decided to head out to an empty parking lot to practice braking and low speed stuff. On my way home I started to hear a lot of popping when I was accelerated. My engine cut out on me, I was able to get it started again and limp a long a bit more before it cut out again. It felt like everything was bogging down. I had to pull over and push her to the nearest gas-station, tried putting some fresh gas in hoping maybe my fuel warning light wasn't working. That didn't help, and when I tried started it again it would make one or two clicks and just stop. Could it be the battery? It seems like since it was running just fine before then that it shouldn't be. I checked the connections anyway and they weren't lose, I didn't see any fluids leaking from anywhere. I think it's to the point where having it towed to a shop to have it looked at is the best option. I don't know any good shops / mechanics around me any recommendations would be appreciated.
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Jun 8, 2013 21:22
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Anarchist posted:Does anybody know some good repair shops / mechanics around Worcester MA? My Superhawk died on me today and I'm at loss for what it could be. I went out for a ride Thursday and everything was fine, the weather cleared up today so I decided to head out to an empty parking lot to practice braking and low speed stuff. On my way home I started to hear a lot of popping when I was accelerated. My engine cut out on me, I was able to get it started again and limp a long a bit more before it cut out again. It felt like everything was bogging down. I had to pull over and push her to the nearest gas-station, tried putting some fresh gas in hoping maybe my fuel warning light wasn't working. That didn't help, and when I tried started it again it would make one or two clicks and just stop. Could it be the battery? It seems like since it was running just fine before then that it shouldn't be. I checked the connections anyway and they weren't lose, I didn't see any fluids leaking from anywhere. I'd test the battery before any drastic measures. Dead/dying batteries will cause funny things to happen.
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Jun 8, 2013 21:51
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Anarchist posted:Does anybody know some good repair shops / mechanics around Worcester MA? My Superhawk died on me today and I'm at loss for what it could be. I went out for a ride Thursday and everything was fine, the weather cleared up today so I decided to head out to an empty parking lot to practice braking and low speed stuff. On my way home I started to hear a lot of popping when I was accelerated. My engine cut out on me, I was able to get it started again and limp a long a bit more before it cut out again. It felt like everything was bogging down. I had to pull over and push her to the nearest gas-station, tried putting some fresh gas in hoping maybe my fuel warning light wasn't working. That didn't help, and when I tried started it again it would make one or two clicks and just stop. Could it be the battery? It seems like since it was running just fine before then that it shouldn't be. I checked the connections anyway and they weren't lose, I didn't see any fluids leaking from anywhere. It might just be a battery but that sounds like a textbook failed R/R, it stopped charging the battery and the bike stayed running till the battery wasn't putting out enough juice to fire the coils, causing the backfiring. get a $10 multimeter and run through this pdf and you'll quickly diagnose the problem http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
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Jun 8, 2013 22:34
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Shouting Melon posted:My 690 does the same thing, and Google suggests that it's pretty normal for the LC4 engine. It's literally only between 5th and 6th, right? I've had it happen once between 4th and 5th, but numerous times between 5th and 6th. Always when I'm going up quickly through gears, so I guess it's just me being sloppy. I'm going to adjust the shifter two or three steps down tomorrow and see if it doesn't get better.
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Jun 9, 2013 01:20
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My 690 hit about a dozen false neutrals between 0 and 2500 miles and then never did it again. Shift definitively while the tranny wears in and don't sweat it. It'll go away. It also never goes 'bag of rocks' like every Suzuki (4) I've owned has eventually.
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Jun 9, 2013 02:15
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I know the guy who owns the gas station I pushed her to, he wasn't there at the time but found out through the grapevine my bike was there. He called in somebody to take a look at it for me, it turns out the battery wasn't holding a charge at all. The R/R tested fine and looks like it was already replaced at some point by the previous owner, it has heatsink fins like this one (http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/) I have no idea where it came from but I'm glad I don't need to replace it. Was able to throw on the new throttle tube and grip too, she started up first try with the new battery. Now I know a good mechanic around here which is a relief. While I was waiting for the battery to show up I got to see a Layer Dan rear end a passenger van. Guy was in a skull cap, khakis, loafers and a flower print shirt. As far as I could tell he wasn't paying attention to the van as it slowed down. I was on the phone with the police before he was back on his feet, he was and moving around and didn't seem to be hurt at all. I didn't cross the street to take a closer look but the bike was jammed in gear I assume since he couldn't push it anywhere once it was back up. The van driver and Dan spoke for a bit then the van drove off and the other guy just walked away leaving his bike on the side of the road. I called the police again since they asked me too if anybody left the scene, by the time I was leaving the station they had an unmarked cruiser parked across the bike waiting for the guy to come back. It was interesting to say the least.
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Jun 9, 2013 04:07
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Swapped wheels this afternoon and for some reason my rear brake barely functions. Front brakes didn't change though. It doesn't make noise and it does work it's just super soft and barely provides any stopping power. Any ideas? It looks like the fluid level is a tad low in the rear reservoir. I'm thinking about doing an old fashioned flush (never done one before!) even though I have a mityvac on its way to be here Thursday.
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Jun 9, 2013 05:01
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Give it a bleed.
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Jun 9, 2013 06:27
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Is everything seated correctly? Double check the pads, spacers, etc. Nothing should have changed unless you somehow pumped air into the system, which shouldn't be possible without bigger issues.
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Jun 9, 2013 06:32
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Z3n posted:Is everything seated correctly? Double check the pads, spacers, etc. Nothing should have changed unless you somehow pumped air into the system, which shouldn't be possible without bigger issues. The caliper did dangle by its own weight for about 5-10 minutes. My only guess is the rubber line is on it's way out and possibly stretched.
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Jun 9, 2013 14:30
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Anyone have a mechanic they'd recommend in SF? Just bought an '82 CB650 and I think I should have it looked over/ get a tune up.
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Jun 10, 2013 05:13
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Quick battery question. I've managed to leave the heated grips running on my bike after parking up for about a day (yes I know I should wire them to the ignition shutup), and the battery naturally went flat. This was at a friend's place so I jump-started it with a car and everything was fine. A couple of days later I have once again left them on and drained the battery. I know. I live at the top of a reasonably long and very steep driveway, it'll be no problem bump-starting it to get to work (the battery still has enough juice to power up all the dash lights etc). After my commute to work I really want to stick it on a charger because I can't put faith in my battery if all that's keeping it afloat is the bike alternator. Is this type of charger ok to use on a bike battery? The one at work is almost identical and is 'smart' in some ways. It can be hooked up to a modern car without disconnecting the terminals and charges the battery without damaging the vehicle, it has various charging modes it switches between automatically, and so on. Will this destroy my bike battery?
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Jun 10, 2013 08:14
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As far as I know if it doesn't overcharge it, and is the correct voltage it should be fine - can't get much info from 1 picture though.
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Jun 10, 2013 09:38
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Shimrod posted:As far as I know if it doesn't overcharge it, and is the correct voltage it should be fine - can't get much info from 1 picture though. Unfortunately I can't remember the brand or exactly what the specs are, but I know that it automatically switches from charging to upkeep when it detects full voltage.
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Jun 10, 2013 10:53
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