|
So after looking at my prospects on used cars, it seems like pretty much all of them have been used in rough (wet, cold) climates, as in New York in NE Ohio. So I'm somewhat worried about rust making the things unserviceable. Where should I look for rust, and how do I know when it's too much? I heard the trunk is a good place, as well as the frame around the fenders... Also, I'm intent on getting any car I'm interested in evaluated independently, but the only trustworthy mechanic I've been able to find is about 20+ miles from the dealers I plan on visiting. Can I actually expect the dealer to be okay with letting me take a car that far away? How are such arrangements usually made? Finally, is a vehicle that had a lien on it a big deal? I'm not really sure why it would matter to me.
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2013 02:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 00:14 |
|
|
revengeanceful posted:That's actually a great question, I guess I should fill out the standard template. You can check my post history for my tireless defence of the 200. One thing that hasn't been mentioned much is that because of its dated platform the 200 is also kindof small and narrow compared to most of the current crop of midsize cars. EDIT: Hurf didn't see the FWD part. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jun 7, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2013 02:32
|
|
|
ANIME AKBAR posted:So after looking at my prospects on used cars, it seems like pretty much all of them have been used in rough (wet, cold) climates, as in New York in NE Ohio. So I'm somewhat worried about rust making the things unserviceable. Where should I look for rust, and how do I know when it's too much? I heard the trunk is a good place, as well as the frame around the fenders... Serious underbody rust will add time and possibly labor hours depending on the shop to your service. Look at some major bolts down there and estimate how rusted over and seized up they might be. If you see rust in the trunk, you should probably pass. In my experience, dealers are really loathe to let you get a PPI. My success rate is maybe 2/10, with both allowing dealers needing a deposit first. That shouldn't sway your resolve to get it inspected, though. A car with a lien paid off is fine. If it still has a lien, it will make negotiations different, if the seller owes a lot.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2013 15:59
|
|
|
Proposed Budget: $15,000-20,000 (Going to put down 2500 as a down payment.) I also only want to buy American. I also get family discounts through Chrysler and GM. New or Used: New Body Style: 4 Door Sedan How will you be using the car?: Driving to work, around the city. Just the normal. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) I'm looking for some nice features such as heated seats, push to start, touch screen, backup assist. What aspects are most important to you? I just want a nice reliable car that will last me a long time. I've been looking at a couple so far such as the Malibu and the Dart. Not really sure yet.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2013 20:01
|
|
|
The Dart is surprisingly nice for a mid/compact sized sedan. My brother just got the Limited turbo version and I'm really impressed with it so far.
|
|
#
?
Jun 7, 2013 20:22
|
|
|
The Malibu isn't great. I'd look at the Cruze instead unless you absolutely demand the extra space of the Malibu.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2013 01:48
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The Malibu isn't great. I'd look at the Cruze instead unless you absolutely demand the extra space of the Malibu. My brother has the 2012 cruze and the pickup is pretty lovely. I also didn't really like the limited room. I was really interested in the Dart Limited with the turbo engine but the ones I've seen at the moment cost around 24-25 which my max would be 20. I wish there were some better rebates. Even with my uncles discount, still looking to be around 22k at least. Anyone have thoughts on the avenger? Those are getting around 3500 off in rebates.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2013 02:13
|
|
|
ThePotatoEater posted:My brother has the 2012 cruze and the pickup is pretty lovely. I also didn't really like the limited room. I was really interested in the Dart Limited with the turbo engine but the ones I've seen at the moment cost around 24-25 which my max would be 20. I wish there were some better rebates. Even with my uncles discount, still looking to be around 22k at least. Anyone have thoughts on the avenger? Those are getting around 3500 off in rebates. The Avenger is not a good car. Why are you limiting yourself to American only?
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2013 02:47
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:The Avenger is not a good car. Why are you limiting yourself to American only? Because I get family discounts as I mentioned in my OP. I also like to support American businesses. I'm from the Detroit area so the auto industry is pretty big here.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2013 04:18
|
|
|
The Avenger is a great car for the price. However to get everything you want on the list for under $20k new is going to be tough. Your other options are maybe a loaded Chevy Sonic 2LT or LTZ or a Fiesta Titanium (which is made in Mexico IIRC).
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
We went back to the drawing board after every single used car we were interested in proved to be a former rental vehicle. Our local Subaru dealer is running some really aggressive promotions right now and we're leaning toward a new Forester unless someone has a strong argument against it. I never in a million years thought I'd be buying a brand new car due to the depreciation thing, but here we are. Proposed Budget: $20kish New or Used: Prefer lightly (sub 40k miles) used, new is acceptable Body Style: Smaller 5 passenger SUV How will you be using the car?: It will be my wife's daily driver. Her job sends her 1-3 hours out to East Bunghole down 1 lane dirt roads on a regular basis, so she wants high clearance and fuel economy. Our current car (which we'll keep) is a 99 Honda Civic so something with storage and towing capacity would be very refreshing as well. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? We're in the "one step above base model" range What aspects are most important to you? MPG, ground clearance, reliability and cost of maintenance, safety, storage capacity. Location We're in Colorado. We're having a bitch of a time finding anything we like below about $22k used. And when one pops up, there's some red flag like "rental vehicle" on the Carfax or it's already at 90,000 miles. I recognize we're being picky, and I think there's some regional effects too--like 2/3 of the cars on the road here are Subarus, RAV4's or CR-V's so the prices on what we're looking for are inflated. The local Subaru dealer is offering a 2014 Forester 2.5i Premium (w/ All Weather package) for about $25k at 0% financing for 5 years which is kind of hard to refuse even though it's at the very very top end of our price range. We also like the Hyundai Tuscon, Nissan Rogue and Toyota RAV4 but haven't found the right deal. We both dislike the Honda CR-V for style and handling reasons.
|
|
#
?
Jun 8, 2013 06:48
|
|
|
I got promoted which, paradoxically, means that I no longer have use of a company vehicle. So I'm looking to get a car. Proposed Budget: $10-$15k (prefer to split that) New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan, mid-size How will you be using the car?: Work commute. Some long distance driving (500+ mi). Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? I wouldn't mind, but it's not terribly important. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, MPG, comfortable interior, somewhat sporty. Location: South Florida I test drove a Suburu Impreza a year or so ago when car shopping with a buddy and really liked it. That's about all I know since I haven't owned a vehicle in years.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 01:22
|
|
|
Test drive a Prius, some of them have a solar panel that powers the HVAC system to keep the inside cool when the car's parked, that sounds pretty useful. It's not "sporty" by most measures, but neither is a base model Impreza, so maybe you need to find where your limits are on that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 01:45
|
|
|
If you liked how the Impreza handled you'll be falling asleep in a Prius, I think. I had narrowed my choices down to those two cars and I had the opposite impression of how the two drove -- liked the Prius and felt banged around in the Impreza.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 02:51
|
|
|
Proposed Budget: $20-25K New or Used: Either if the price is right. Body Style: Coupe How will you be using the car?: Semi-daily driver. <10,000 miles annually. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: Somewhat. Looking for a sporty vehicle with some newer items, especially when it comes to the sound/media system. What aspects are most important to you?: I'm looking for a fun vehicle to drive, with low depreciation costs and good reliability. In this vein I've been researching the Scion FR-S and I'm liking what I've been seeing. When the new 2014 model comes out this Fall what I can roughly expect to buy the current year's model at? If MSRP is 25-26k now, would 22k be reasonable? How fast after the new model's release should I expect the drop, and when is the perfect time to buy?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 04:30
|
|
|
Boon posted:Proposed Budget: $20-25K Also, the FR-S is still kind of an in demand vehicle, so I don't expect big dealer discounts. The Subaru BR-Z is the same thing (though the suspension is a bit different and generally consider better), so if you find a left over, you can negotate on a Subaru. That said, it is even more limited and in higher demand (because it has better equipment). nm fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Jun 9, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 04:51
|
|
|
Those cars are in big demand right now. You won't be finding leftover 2013's, seeing rebates, or getting much off MSRP. 22K is a pipe dream on one of those cars. Invoice is 25K flat for the cheapest one. Not much markup on them. A word about depreciation, almost any new car is going to lose 40 to 50% of it's value in the first 3 years. If you're worried about depreciation, don't buy new. I would be looking for 3 to 4 year old cars, and dump them after 2 to 3 years. You'll get really good years out of the car with minimal depreciation. With that said, I can't think of anything to recommend you. I would say 370Z/G37 coupe, but a 3 year old model is still outside of your 25K top end. Maybe check out a Honda S2000. You should be able to grab a 2008 in your price range. Mustang's are worth a look, and if you shop around you might swing a 3 series BMW coupe
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 06:26
|
|
|
Well if media/audio/entertainment is what you are looking for then a Subaru/FRS is possibly the worst choice on the market for that. Mustang/Camaro/Challenger are the way to go. A 3 series coupe is going to be 4 or 5 years old at this point and in need of a full cooling system replacement - remember the coupes are usually the higher trims with the bigger engines so are more expensive than the stripper 323i sedans you can find at the bottom of the market. If you must have a BMW maybe a non turbo 1 series would be better.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 08:18
|
|
|
Okay so after several of the cars I was looking at sold right out from under my feet, I decided to make a grab for the 2003 Prius. However, when I went to test drive it, it made a funny sound when braking (posted about it in AI here). I told our salesman, who seemed surprised, so he got in and drove it himself and he also noticed it. Upon returning to the dealer he talked to someone out of earshot, then came back and told me that the sound was coming from the brake squealers, and that they were aware of the issue beforehand and that was factored into the asking price. This is obviously bullshit (squealers don't make this sound), but I stupidly didn't know it at the time so I didn't call them on it then and there. I signed a deposit, along with an agreed sale price, and the sale is pending a mechanical check at a nearby Toyota dealer. So I already feel dumb for not taking a chance to pressure them into lowering the price, but I'm not screwed yet. If the Toyota place finds an issue with it, I can (and will) back out with my deposit. But even if there is some issue with the car I would be willing to negotiate the price down. However, the thing is this is a wholesale dealer, which means that they have some "special rules" when negotiating. One of them is that once a deposit is put down and a price is agreed on, it can't be negotiated further. Either we have to back out, or take it as-is. How inflexible can I expect them to be on this? If I back out, is there any possibility that they'd be willing to start negotiating from scratch right then and there?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 21:03
|
|
|
It's all bullshit. Used cars at dealers are negotiable until a bill of sale is signed. If they won't negotiate just walk away.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 21:05
|
|
|
Yeah, I assumed there's nothing legally preventing anyone from negotiating at some arbitrary point (except the final signature) but specifically how can I leverage them to step down from their pedestal and give me some flexibility? I presume that if I get belligerent then that won't help, even if it's justified.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 21:18
|
|
|
If they won't play ball just walk away. Most people feel too invested in a negotiation to just walk away and they know it. If you walk away and they still have room to haggle in their price they'll come chasing after you in the parking lot.
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 22:00
|
|
|
Guinness posted:If they won't play ball just walk away. Most people feel too invested in a negotiation to just walk away and they know it. If you walk away and they still have room to haggle in their price they'll come chasing after you in the parking lot. Yes I agree. Thankfully I'm not in a position where I actually need the car, and I intend to make that clear to them. Thanks for the support. Somewhat related, if it turns out that I am willing to sign a final contract, what specific terms should I ask be added in? What level of detail is appropriate? Can I ask that they swear that specific systems are functional and will not need repairs for X miles/length of time after purchase? And if I do include such terms, can I specify that they pay the cost of the repairs, or that the deal will be voided and I'll be able to get my money back?
|
|
#
?
Jun 9, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
ANIME AKBAR posted:Yes I agree. Thankfully I'm not in a position where I actually need the car, and I intend to make that clear to them. Thanks for the support. I doubt they would agree to anything like that. At best you might get a 30/90 day warranty from a used car dealer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 00:44
|
|
|
Yeah, really the only term that is negotiable on a car purchase is the price. You MIGHT be able to get a short warranty.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 00:58
|
|
|
Stop giving dealers deposits on cars already on their lot. Unless it's a 288 GTO just let someone else buy it if they want it so bad. There are plenty of other Priuses in the sea.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 00:58
|
|
|
Throatwarbler posted:Stop giving dealers deposits on cars already on their lot. quote:There are plenty of other Priuses in the sea.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 03:07
|
|
|
I believe I've made up my mind and want to get a Dart. Only issue is the fully loaded limited editions are 24k which they don't offer much in rebates and along with my family discount, it only goes around 21-22k. Is there anyway to try and wiggle the price down with salesman or am I pretty much stuck on that price? Also, is there anywhere else to look for rebates besides their actual site? ThePotatoEater fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Jun 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 04:23
|
|
|
ThePotatoEater posted:I believe I've made up my mind and want to get a Dart. Only issue is the fully loaded limited editions are 24k which they don't offer much in rebates and along with my family discount, it only goes around 21-22k. Is there anyway to try and wiggle the price down with salesman or am I pretty much stuck on that price? My personal suspicion is that the family discount is instead of room to negotiate. E.g., it's not actually a discount, just an advertising trick. But I'm cynical that way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 04:26
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:My personal suspicion is that the family discount is instead of room to negotiate. E.g., it's not actually a discount, just an advertising trick. But I'm cynical that way. Probably. I got a focus for way less than the x-plan price by negotiating.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 04:27
|
|
|
ThePotatoEater posted:I believe I've made up my mind and want to get a Dart. Only issue is the fully loaded limited editions are 24k which they don't offer much in rebates and along with my family discount, it only goes around 21-22k. Is there anyway to try and wiggle the price down with salesman or am I pretty much stuck on that price? Unlikely that you'll do much better than the family discount, that is if it's the actual family discount and not the smaller discount one. They're not in the market to lose money and the actual Chrysler family discount is pretty large, $3k off sticker is pretty good. Sometimes you can get some small add-ons tossed in if you know the guy, but doubtful you'll do much better. The limited is nice though as I noted earlier. I was really surprised by how much I liked my brother, especially the interior which dodge has been awful with up until about a year or two ago.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 04:31
|
|
|
rockcity posted:Unlikely that you'll do much better than the family discount, that is if it's the actual family discount and not the smaller discount one. They're not in the market to lose money and the actual Chrysler family discount is pretty large, $3k off sticker is pretty good. Sometimes you can get some small add-ons tossed in if you know the guy, but doubtful you'll do much better. The limited is nice though as I noted earlier. I was really surprised by how much I liked my brother, especially the interior which dodge has been awful with up until about a year or two ago. If I buy, I want to pay around 250 per month but I'm not sure if that is possible with a fully loaded limited, unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 04:33
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Probably. I got a focus for way less than the x-plan price by negotiating. I beat X-Plan as well without too much work, but I'm pretty sure that A and Z plans are much better. I hope they don't screw their actual employees that much.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
Weinertron posted:I beat X-Plan as well without too much work, but I'm pretty sure that A and Z plans are much better. I hope they don't screw their actual employees that much. A and Z are strong. X-Plan is useful for relatively high demand vehicles (ST, etc), but yes, you should be able to achieve X-Plan levels without too much work. I believe Chrysler runs Invoice less rebates/offers less 1% of invoice plus delivery. It's a pretty strong price, but you're not going to negotiate off that price - I doubt the dealer will be willing to cut a deal.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 14:00
|
|
|
ThePotatoEater posted:If I buy, I want to pay around 250 per month but I'm not sure if that is possible with a fully loaded limited, unfortunately. How much are you putting down? Even at $20k you'd need to put quite a bit of money down to get to a monthly payment that low. Ignoring interest, you'd need to put down at least enough to get the loan amount down to $15k. More than likely you'll need to get it down to like $12-13k. And don't forget about tax and fees when you're budgeting this out too.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 15:37
|
|
|
revengeanceful posted:That's actually a great question, I guess I should fill out the standard template. Reposting this from the bottom of last page. I've taken an interest in some lightly used Hyundai Sonata SE 2.0T that I've seen online. Anyone have any thoughts on those? They seem to hit on all of the major points I'm looking for.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 18:29
|
|
|
revengeanceful posted:Reposting this from the bottom of last page. I've taken an interest in some lightly used Hyundai Sonata SE 2.0T that I've seen online. Anyone have any thoughts on those? They seem to hit on all of the major points I'm looking for. Those were't cheap when new and haven't been out for that long, any that you find are going to be pretty high mileage. The 2.0T by all accounts really isn't as fast as the HP numbers would seem to indicate either.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 19:01
|
|
|
revengeanceful posted:Reposting this from the bottom of last page. I've taken an interest in some lightly used Hyundai Sonata SE 2.0T that I've seen online. Anyone have any thoughts on those? They seem to hit on all of the major points I'm looking for. I was going to recommend you look at '10 to '12 Fusion SEL's. The SEL comes with the 3.0 Duratec V6, which ticks that box. It's not the greatest engine, but it'll give you relatively comfortable passing power on the freeway. The SEL will have leather and heated seats standard and if you really look you might be able to find an AWD model as well if you are willing to take the MPG hit. You shouldn't have a problem finding lots of Fusions to look at in your price range.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 19:23
|
|
|
Throatwarbler posted:Those were't cheap when new and haven't been out for that long, any that you find are going to be pretty high mileage. The 2.0T by all accounts really isn't as fast as the HP numbers would seem to indicate either. All of the disadvantages of a V6 midsize sedan, with additional complexity! Everyone wins.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 19:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 00:14 |
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:
Mmm, not true. I rented a V6 200 with ~30k on the clock when my E36 got totaled out. OK and decently quick on the straights, terrible transmission that has The Wrong Shift Points and was shuddering on every deceleration, but I will chalk that up to rental. Gas mileage unimpressive.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2013 20:06
|
|
