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blargle posted:Is low coolant a common thing on a 3rd gen WRX? Every 15k miles or so I'll notice it's below the low fill line and I have to top it off. Car has never burned a drop of oil. I'd check rad hose connections for leaks and check your oil for signs of coolant infiltration via head gasket failure (not super likely if you haven't noticed anything else wrong with it). Sorry to repeat my question but anyone know which NGK plugs to put in a 98 STi?
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Jun 22, 2013 20:11
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Sockington posted:You said the caliper cups pushed in easily, but did you service the sliders on the front calipers (unless yours is the 4piston setup) at the same time? Just trying to cover all the bases here. I greased them if that's what you're asking.
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Jun 22, 2013 21:20
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VelociBacon posted:Edit: I've also heard that the CEL will flash when it detects detonation but I can't confirm that. Does anyone know for sure which years/models do this warning? It might be an OBDII thing. I had this issue with my Boxster. I changed plugs and one ended up being defective and started causing a misfire. You could tell it was misfiring just from driving it, but the CEL would only flash when under load (like up a hill). The car is programmed to ignore intermittent misfires so you would never know unless you felt it like I did. Even with the flashing, it has to occur a certain amount of times in a certain period and then even more often before the car will turn the CEL solid. Also hiding the AP is easy. The only way they could tell is if they pulled the entire tune out with software, and then compared the numbers to a stock tune, which I doubt they would ever do. The AP changes the tables, but it leaves anything else not associated with tuning alone. So even if they checked the ECU flash revision code it would be what they would expect to see.
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Jun 23, 2013 21:09
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I seafoamed my 97 outback awhile back and it ran for something like two full minutes on literally one out two cylinders before it started flashing the light. The second it picked up again the light went away. Then I drove like a dong for fifteen minutes and caked the neighborhood in 350,000 miles of <3k RPM grandpa driving, carbon buildup soot. Good times. Pretty sure that was the first time the car had ever been above 3k in its entire life, too. My uncle is the most tightassed Argentinean. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jun 23, 2013 |
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Jun 23, 2013 22:27
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Is it possible/worthwhile/cheapish to make a 09 WRX hatch handle more like a 04 WRX wagon?
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Jun 24, 2013 01:46
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Is it possible/worthwhile/cheapish to make a 09 WRX hatch handle more like a 04 WRX wagon? Kind of? They make bushing kits for the 3rd gen cars. Some people in this thread will argue that the 3rd gen is a better car. Some will argue that the 2nd gen was set up better. I'm not going to tell you which one I think is better for fear of 10 pages worth of boo hoos. whiteline makes bushings. RCE and swift make springs. koni makes dampers. All for 08+. Turn in concepts sells all of that and Jamal can probably get you a discount.
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Jun 24, 2013 02:28
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Slow is Fast posted:
Bug eyes 4 lyfe!
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Jun 24, 2013 02:31
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Is there a rear LSD option for the 08+ WRX that doesn't set off the traction control? That would make the car a lot better in my book. I'm not too up on what the 08+s need but I remember that a big deal was the lack of adjustable rear camber. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jun 24, 2013 |
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Jun 24, 2013 02:39
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Slow is Fast posted:Kind of? Thanks. Not my intention to start a debate. My wife and I each drive a wrx, her mostly the older one and we like different aspects of both, just trying to build off that so we can enjoy each more.
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Jun 24, 2013 02:51
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So, I'm trying to diagnose a clutch issue I'm having on the RS. I'm just going to explain the symptoms and at the end note one change that has been done to the car. I'm unsure if the change caused the issue or not. The clutch works normally at first and about 4 or so laps into a race the clutch pedal will not return back up and I have to flip it up with my toe. The clutch disengages ok; but, it will not engage fully until I flip the pedal up. This only seems to manifest itself when the motor is hot. If I let the car sit with the hood open between races as always, it will be fine for another 4 or so laps for the next race. My first thought was that I was somehow boiling or overheating the clutch fluid since I had installed new headers over the winter with no heatshielding or anything; but, this seems unlikely. Someone mentioned it might be a failing slave cylinder or possibly master cylinder? It is just weird that it doesn't manifest itself immediately. Any thoughts?
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Jun 24, 2013 16:39
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Put in the same high temp fluid as you would for brakes and put some reflective tape on the clutch hydraulic line. Doesn't sound like a master/slave issue to me.
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Jun 24, 2013 17:01
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Larrymer posted:Put in the same high temp fluid as you would for brakes and put some reflective tape on the clutch hydraulic line. Doesn't sound like a master/slave issue to me. I forgot to mention, I put in motul already. I haven't taped the lines though.
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Jun 24, 2013 17:12
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I would also re-bleed it. The pedal will do that when there is a little air in the system.
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Jun 24, 2013 22:50
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Slow is Fast posted:They make bushing kits for the 3rd gen cars. Will this greatly improve/alter the performance of the car? The amount of roll in the 2011 wrx is insane compared to older generations. I don't want to try and chase the old generations' handling characteristics because the two cars handle so much differently, but i want to improve the handling on my car to make its strengths truly shine. Stock suspension doesn't seem to allow for that.
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Jun 25, 2013 04:38
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It depends what you want out of the car in terms of handling. If you just want a crisper, more responsive ride it's probably a good idea to start with swaybars. If you want to chase ultimate grip potential then we're starting down the kind of rabbit hole I like. Doing something reasonable right now, like an adult In order to pick the right swaybars you'll have to figure out what kind of balance you like. I determined that I wanted to get the smallest Whiteline adjustable bars (22mm in my car's case, probably bigger on the GE/GH/GR's case) and then upgrade if the stiffest setting wasn't quite doing it for me. Then you can tinker with the adjustment to figure out which balance of stiffness front vs. rear you want. I feel like this should give you the majority of the handling feel you want out of the car and is definitely your best value for money at this point. Eventually you'll get nervous shakes when away from your car and resort to... Chasing ultimate grip and driving your family away, having your wife find you in the bathroom with a Whiteline catalogue and your pants around your ankles, eyes wide with fear (part 1 of 36) If I were to get a 3rd gen car donated to me right now I would probably focus on putting some big swaybars on it (with good endlinks - I've heard there's a relative dearth of options for them so you'll have to do some research on which endlinks are good and reliable), followed by replacing a large number of suspension bushings (including the strut tophats, engine/drivetrain mounts, especially the shifter bushings) and then looking into damper and spring options. Wider, stickier tires - as wide as I could fit - and dropping the amount of sidewall might also make a difference. The chassis is very stiff, even compared to the GDs, so I think strut tower bars are generally a waste of money on these cars (as they are on all GDs and for the front on GGs). The Whiteline anti-lift kit made a big difference on my '06 so I'd probably add that as well. Any lowering would have to be matched with a roll centre kit to keep the geometry in spec, and whatever can be done to add rear camber adjustment in the back would be welcome then as well. I think I'd still be frustrated by the lack of a rear LSD but I could probably alter my driving technique to be closer to what I do with my open-diff Imprezas to compensate. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 04:48
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Hey I was in Calgary today for like an hour to drop my aunt off at the airport. I wanted to do some stuff but everything is still underwater I guess. So anyway, the swaybars are a good start in that they are cheap, adjustable, and will make the car corner flatter and improve the balance. Better struts and springs and a few bushings gets you a lot farther but costs more. Basically $1300 to 2k or more for a decent entry level suspension (RCE bilsteins and yellow springs for example). Then the ALK mostly for the stiffer bushing. There's already a good amount of caster with this car plus a wider track which helps a lot. Those are the basics anyway.
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Jun 25, 2013 07:31
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I think have a problem. Saw it on gumtree, if it wasn't sold in a week or so it was off to the wreckers. So $650 and a trailer ride later.....
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Jun 25, 2013 08:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The chassis is very stiff, even compared to the GDs, so I think strut tower bars are generally a waste of money on these cars (as they are on all GDs and for the front on GGs). Ummmm..... I was in the no braces camp but I disagree with that now after all the the work KB has done to rectify what we have found is a fundamental problem on an Impreza. Basically two huge firewall cracks under the windscreen are a clear sign that the strut towers DO move about - and this is in a car already with a FIA cage and seam welding which you would think would stop that. It's now gotten a very solid x-brace under the windscreen and tied to the towers. Now to rule out the roll cage and seam welding pointing chassis forces into unexpected areas, we checked it back on the stock 06 and we can see that there is need for additional strut bracing and signs there is strain in the same places as the cracks. Looking closer the towers arent as well tied to the firewall as we thought stock and there is even what appears to be a few points where cornering stress gets concentrated where you dont want it. So ummm.... yeah. Not a waste of money at all it turns out. In regards to the rally car, we later discovered that it's known the firewalls crack and break but the original cage builders went cheap and didnt put in the X-Brace under the windscreen, which is in the FIA homologations for a 06 Impreza and on so Subaru worked that one out after a couple of years that it's needed. Looking at the technical notes on the cages and also the stress points, for a stock car the best kind of brace would be a two part one - a bar that goes across the towers in front of the intercooler and another piece that goes back and connects to the firewall. Otherwise look at what the Spec C variant bar is, find one that replicates that. Chiwie posted:I think have a problem. I'm not seeing the problem here, even the Nissan has a blue triangle for bonus points
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Jun 25, 2013 08:19
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Cat Terrist posted:I'm not seeing the problem here, even the Nissan has a blue triangle for bonus points The RX might end up with a triangle of it's own next year. I'm not really keen of risking my WRX on dirt. A $650 RX is another story. 
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Jun 25, 2013 08:25
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Chiwie posted:The RX might end up with a triangle of it's own next year. I'm not really keen of risking my WRX on dirt. A $650 RX is another story. Good man 
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Jun 25, 2013 08:41
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What's a good deal for some 04 BBS STI wheels with decent summer tires?
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Jun 25, 2013 15:56
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Larrymer posted:What's a good deal for some 04 BBS STI wheels with decent summer tires? 05+ BBS I've seen a average price of $500-600 near me. Any higher than that they seem to stay for sale for a long time.
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Jun 25, 2013 21:42
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Yes, 5x100. They look to be in good shape but I thought they went for a lot more money.
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Jun 25, 2013 21:58
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5x100 BBSes seem to be trading for an average price of about a grand per set here sans tires. They are a ridiculous price. I remember an ad from a few months ago where one guy had stripped all the paint off his in preparation for a paint job and still wanted 800 for the set. New from Subaru they're like 1300ish per wheel so maybe it might be a good idea to go to the dealership, empty your 401k and sit on them for a few years. 
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Jun 25, 2013 22:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:5x100 BBSes seem to be trading for an average price of about a grand per set here sans tires. They are a ridiculous price. I remember an ad from a few months ago where one guy had stripped all the paint off his in preparation for a paint job and still wanted 800 for the set. It's basic economics since the there are lot less 04's around then 05+. I bet they'll stay at a high price and like you said most likely get even more expensive as time goes on. Wait, I just checked subarugenuineparts.com and they have them for sale for $690.00 per rim. http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_48&products_id=255 
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Jun 25, 2013 22:16
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Those are the 17x7 wheels that were an option when the WRX came out. The STI BBS wheels are 947 on sgp with an msrp of 1008. Each. You have to REALLY want a set of them to pay what they are going for. You can get a set of nice enkeis or something for the same or less. Plus they are only 7.5" wide. Going with something 8-9" assuming you have the room gives you more brake clearance and a little better cornering performance. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 22:22
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jamal posted:Those are the 17x7 wheels that were an option when the WRX came out. The STI BBS wheels are 947 on sgp with an msrp of 1008. Each. Something looked fishy with those rims. While we are at rim chat. For a 05 STi It's looking really hard to find a 17x9 in the right offset that won't require me to butcher my fenders. The Kosei K1 TS 17X9 +45mm seems like one of the few good choices. From what I read I'd definitely have to go to coilovers which I'm planning on doing eventually or keep it at stock height. G-Mach fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 22:34
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Have you looked at the Mach V Awesomes?
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Jun 25, 2013 22:45
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There is actually a pretty good amount of clearance between the tire and the stock struts because the spring perch is up high enough to be out of the way. On my car I noticed there are little scuff marks on the shock shafts themselves from the tires (225 hankook v12, +55 offset, about 2.5 degrees of front camber, sti struts). With coilovers you can actually end up with less room depending on where the spring perches end up, but you also have the ability to max out the camber plate and then adjust out with the lower mounting point to give you more room. So a 45 offset is going to move the centerline of the wheel out only 8mm. With a 9" wheel and 245-255mm tires that might not actually be far enough out depending on the alignment and tire model. I would feel more comfortable with a +40-42 offset because I would rather have to give the fenders a slight roll than have to compromise my alignment or straight up have wheels that won't bolt on. On the other hand I have seen 255s on the stock wheels and suspension (but hardly any camber). In addition to the mach v awesome, Enkei GTC01 comes in 17x9 +40 RPF1 comes in 17x9 +45 jamal fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jun 25, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 22:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It depends what you want out of the car in terms of handling. If you just want a crisper, more responsive ride it's probably a good idea to start with swaybars. If you want to chase ultimate grip potential then we're starting down the kind of rabbit hole I like. Thanks for the info. I think sway bars/endlinks, springs, and bushings are in order; however I'm concerned that I'll be disappointed without an LSD as well. I'd like some time with a WRX that is already set up like my target build to see if it is solving all of the concerns I have. P.S. I need help with bushings, and what I should be focusing on. Any advice on what to prioritize for suspension stuff is very welcome. I've got the shifter kit taken care of, but that's it! Danger Doug fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jun 26, 2013 |
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Jun 25, 2013 23:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:5x100 BBSes seem to be trading for an average price of about a grand per set here sans tires. They are a ridiculous price. I remember an ad from a few months ago where one guy had stripped all the paint off his in preparation for a paint job and still wanted 800 for the set. I found a set with tires for ~$500. So I guess I'll pick them up if I can get there before they're gone.
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Jun 26, 2013 02:43
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Thanks for all the input. I'll probably start turning my car into an actual scca ASP prepped car this winter. I was thinking of running A6s (255-40-17) on 17x9s.
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Jun 26, 2013 05:57
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G-Mach posted:Thanks for all the input. I'll probably start turning my car into an actual scca ASP prepped car this winter. I was thinking of running A6s (255-40-17) on 17x9s. Nationally, the go to tire for the upper SP levels was the 285/30/18. I've seen a few cars move up to a 295/315 staggered setup this year.
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Jun 26, 2013 06:02
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c355n4 posted:So, I'm trying to diagnose a clutch issue I'm having on the RS. I'm just going to explain the symptoms and at the end note one change that has been done to the car. I'm unsure if the change caused the issue or not. The clutch works normally at first and about 4 or so laps into a race the clutch pedal will not return back up and I have to flip it up with my toe. The clutch disengages ok; but, it will not engage fully until I flip the pedal up. This only seems to manifest itself when the motor is hot. If I let the car sit with the hood open between races as always, it will be fine for another 4 or so laps for the next race. I'm late to the gangbang, but I had this exact issue with my 01 RS clutch. It had 2 issues that contributed. First was on the pedal assembly itself, there is a spring, mine had broken. Second was my master cylinder seals were toast. It wasn't leaking, but after you pushed it a few times you could see the fluid in the reservoir rise noticeably. After sitting for a few minutes you would see the fluid level drop. I fixed the pedal spring and it stopped getting 'stuck', but it still didn't return right. I went ahead and got Exedy replacement master & slaves off Rockauto (was like $40 shipped for both) and that finally seems to have completely fixed it. I still want to replace the lines between them, but that's more just because the old ones are nasty/corroded.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:42
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The centric stuff is also pretty cheap. 136.47002 for the MC (about $60) 138.47003 for slave ($30) Danger Doug posted:Thanks for the info. I think sway bars/endlinks, springs, and bushings are in order; however I'm concerned that I'll be disappointed without an LSD as well. I'd like some time with a WRX that is already set up like my target build to see if it is solving all of the concerns I have. In the front, the ALK and top mounts contribute to most of the flex. Depending on where you go with suspension, you can use camber plates or whiteline com-c mounts, which are harder rubber and offset to get you more camber and caster. The rear has a lot of things going on. The 11+ at least has stiffer mounts from the crossmember to the chassis so that is not as much of an issue. I'd still get a set of inserts to stiffen that interface up, and then maybe just do the easy ones like the outer LCA, and front of the trailing arm. The upper a-arm is about all that's left and those are a huge pain in the rear end to change, but they are also a good place to adjust camber with offset bushings. Depending on ride height and suspension you might not need that adjustment and you can also do it with an aftermarket LCA, although they are fairly pricey. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jun 26, 2013 |
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Jun 26, 2013 21:19
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What are some common causes of misfires on a 98 Outback? I've still got this intermittent misfire in cylinders 1 and 2. Originally checked the coil pack, it was bad, and replaced it. Did plugs/wires at the same time. The car definitely started running a lot better (started easier, better fuel mileage) but after 6 months the misfire came back again. Before it would only happen under really high load like 75MPH up a grade, but this time it happened while just tootling along on flat ground at 40MPH. Pulled the codes and got P0301 and P0302, same as before. Anyone ever had a cracked exhaust cause a misfire, or at least a misfire code?
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Jun 26, 2013 22:04
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si posted:I'm late to the gangbang, but I had this exact issue with my 01 RS clutch. It had 2 issues that contributed. First was on the pedal assembly itself, there is a spring, mine had broken. Second was my master cylinder seals were toast. It wasn't leaking, but after you pushed it a few times you could see the fluid in the reservoir rise noticeably. After sitting for a few minutes you would see the fluid level drop. Thanks, I'll have to check that spring. I'll probably just replace the master and slave cylinders. I need the car to be ready for the upcoming 2hr enduro in a month.
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Jun 26, 2013 22:19
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I took my wrx to a track day a month a go, and haven't driven it since. Better then the previous track day as the engine survived, but the brakes didn't work out so well. I changed to stoptech pads the trackday before, and figured since there was only 1 track day on the pads they were ok (plus they looked like they had a lot left on them). Turns out the pads are only good for 1 trackday, not two. I had to drive home without brakes as it was metal on metal.  What the outside pad looked like  Rotor  This was hard to get off the rotor.  Melty   Ooops Guess I learned to change my pads/have spares before I go to the track.
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Jun 26, 2013 23:14
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Once you get used to it, you can swap pads in like 5 minutes per corner. It's best for that to actually get some track pads, and swap them for the event. You should really also do the fluid on each event. Street pads are just no bueno on a track, and track pads are really no bueno on the street. You get the added benefit of checking your lug torques and such while you do it as well. Just make sure you put a spot of anti-seize on those bolts, it cuts the pad change time in half.
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Jun 26, 2013 23:19
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si posted:Once you get used to it, you can swap pads in like 5 minutes per corner. It's best for that to actually get some track pads, and swap them for the event. You should really also do the fluid on each event. Street pads are just no bueno on a track, and track pads are really no bueno on the street. Eh, whats really going to happen is Im going to sell my wrx and get something cheaper/lighter/less powerful. I don't like driving it around town and the guys in their chumpcar neon looked like they were having just as much fun as I was. Anyone want a bugeye wagon with a 207 in it?
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Jun 26, 2013 23:28
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