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But it floats/reads higher cause the bubbles stick to the hydrometer and that adds buoyancy, right?
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Jun 27, 2013 15:16
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Myron Baloney posted:That's backwards - dissolved gas lowers water density. Beautiful example of expectation bias in an experiment though. I think air bubbles clinging to the hydrometer and causing it to float higher is where the inaccuracy is anticipated in this case, not in the actual density of the liquid.
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Jun 27, 2013 15:24
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ChickenArise posted:It's fine. I've gotten kits in Arlington from Morebeer before I ever even knew to refrigerate or take care of it, and they were all fine. Lately I've just been sucking it up and figuring out when I can make it to MyLHBS. Sounds good. The brew store on 7? I work in Ballston, probably not all that far from you.
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Jun 27, 2013 15:28
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withak posted:I think air bubbles clinging to the hydrometer and causing it to float higher is where the inaccuracy is anticipated in this case, not in the actual density of the liquid.  This is some crazy stuff. I'm surprised I'm a home-brewer seeing as how I hated chemistry in school. If only i had paid more attention I could have been a Walter White esque Super brewer.
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Jun 27, 2013 15:29
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withak posted:I think air bubbles clinging to the hydrometer and causing it to float higher is where the inaccuracy is anticipated in this case, not in the actual density of the liquid. That sounds right I guess.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:16
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Myron Baloney posted:That's backwards - dissolved gas lowers water density. Beautiful example of expectation bias in an experiment though. Citation needed. You're telling me after all the bother of getting CO2 into solution it is so buddy buddy with the water its going to decrease density? E. I'm only being facetiously antagonistic, solution thermo is so hosed up that I'll believe anything about it with a decent argument. E2 I am already realizing I have my thoughts backwards in my head so feel free to be a dick pointing that out too. zedprime fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 17:13
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zedprime posted:Citation needed. You're telling me after all the bother of getting CO2 into solution it is so buddy buddy with the water its going to decrease density? So I don't come off as a total spazz NRTL, UNIFAC AND UNIQUAC all spit out saturated CO2 solution at 60f and atmospheric is denser than pure water. But maybe I managed to pick the 3 worst models to use because that is not my specialty at all.
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Jun 27, 2013 17:42
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Marshmallow Blue posted:"says here your BA is .2 Thats 24 beers at your weight!" I know I'm a goon and all, but I'm not THAT fat ... Myron Baloney posted:That's backwards - dissolved gas lowers water density. Beautiful example of expectation bias in an experiment though. I'm not sure what you mean by that. I expected a different result and was surprised by the one I got.
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Jun 27, 2013 17:58
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zedprime posted:So I don't come off as a total spazz NRTL, UNIFAC AND UNIQUAC all spit out saturated CO2 solution at 60f and atmospheric is denser than pure water. But maybe I managed to pick the 3 worst models to use because that is not my specialty at all. Some googling for experimental data leads me to a whole lot of papers like this that are focused on CO2 sequestration that would seem to confirm you, although it's probably horribly improper to generalize from those conditions to ours.
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Jun 27, 2013 18:00
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what if we take a gravity of a beer before and after bottle carbing? Edit: Assuming that the yeast ate all the sugar added. I'll test this if anyone wants since I have a flat beer and its carbing now (not even fridged yet)
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Jun 27, 2013 18:06
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Marshmallow Blue posted:what if we take a gravity of a beer before and after bottle carbing? Edit: Assuming that the yeast ate all the sugar added. I'll test this if anyone wants since I have a flat beer and its carbing now (not even fridged yet) I'll do this tonight and post a trip report. I keep tight records of all my variables so it should be pretty accurate, at least for our purposes. fake edit: Yeah I just checked, drinking beer is on my schedule for this evening. Also holy poo poo I was looking through Radical Brewing for some mead info/ideas, and he's got some ridiculous stuff in there that I can't wait to try. Anyone have a proven all-grain braggot recipe?
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Jun 27, 2013 18:11
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Taste-tested my vanilla caramel cream ale today. That's some top-notch stuff there, although I might up the vanilla a little before I keg it. Can't wait for that batch to come online. 
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Jun 27, 2013 21:26
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Bad Munki posted:Taste-tested my vanilla caramel cream ale today. That's some top-notch stuff there, although I might up the vanilla a little before I keg it. Can't wait for that batch to come online. Reciplease!
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Jun 27, 2013 21:28
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Reciplease! It's a pretty simple recipe, really. 2.5 gallon partial boil extract recipe. This was the email I got: quote:Due to the interest in the recipe for the VCCA, here it is! Please keep in mind this is a partial boil extract recipe. Convert away! I use 2.5 gallons of water in the steep and the boil. The remaining volume is added in the primary fermenter. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 21:37
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fullroundaction posted:I'm not sure what you mean by that. I expected a different result and was surprised by the one I got.
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Jun 27, 2013 21:42
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Eww vanilla extract? I might play with that using beans,etc How sweet is it with all that lactose?
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Jun 27, 2013 22:26
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Yeah I'd be going beans too.
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Jun 27, 2013 22:32
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Although fermenting at 58 is a problem for me now
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Jun 27, 2013 22:46
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Myron Baloney posted:Ha sorry I was just being flippant. I don't think that the effect on gravity gas in solution has makes all that much practical difference in brewing other than the bubbles on the hydrometer thing that was mentioned - I think you'd have to pull a vacuum on a sample to really degas it. On the other hand this would make a great new .99999~=1 argument on the internet.
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Jun 27, 2013 22:48
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Myron Baloney posted:Ha sorry I was just being flippant. I don't think that the effect on gravity gas in solution has makes all that much practical difference in brewing other than the bubbles on the hydrometer thing that was mentioned - I think you'd have to pull a vacuum on a sample to really degas it. On the other hand this would make a great new .99999~=1 argument on the internet. Oh I think I get what you're saying now. I wasn't trying to say that the reason it measured .002 points higher was BECAUSE of a change in gravity (or because of bubbles or whatever), just that it DID happen. Either way, it doesn't matter, it's just good to note that you should probably adjust down a bit if you're in a situation where you're testing (more than mildly) carbonated beer. SPEAKING OF MORE SCIENCE I just tested a very carbonated wheat I did a while back that finished at 1.004. It read somewhere between 1.006-1.007 ... so there we go. It's a thing, at least as far as my setup goes.
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Jun 28, 2013 01:46
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two weeks primary, two weeks in secondary on jim beam,oak, and vanilla.. The vanilla burbon barrel porter is progressing nicely, and my concern of too much jim beam was dashed away when i tasted it just now. its MUCH more subtle then it was last week. im probably going to give it another week only because the owner of the bottling equipment needs to use it this weekend, and hey, it never hurts to age your beer some more.
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Jun 28, 2013 02:17
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strikehold posted:Sounds good. The brew store on 7? I work in Ballston, probably not all that far from you. Yep, http://www.mylhbs.com/ I went there today, and they've actually moved into a much larger space next door, taken the refrigerated stuff (hops, yeast, etc) out from behind the counter, and no longer have to lock up and run downstairs to get kegs etc. They have a sort of loyalty program too that will get you increasing discounts as you spend and don't cash out. Prices are generally comparable to NB I think. You can probably even make it there while they are open; I work further out, and it's a pain.
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Jun 28, 2013 02:32
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Marshmallow Blue posted:what if we take a gravity of a beer before and after bottle carbing? Edit: Assuming that the yeast ate all the sugar added. I'll test this if anyone wants since I have a flat beer and its carbing now (not even fridged yet) Wouldn't the beer gravities before/after carbing (after degassing etc) be lower from removing water/adding alcohol?
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Jun 28, 2013 03:31
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Roundboy posted:Eww vanilla extract? I might play with that using beans,etc I have beans, but in my experience, getting a consistent vanilla flavoring is much more reliable with extract. As for the lactose, I don't feel like the 4oz (1/2 cup) is really all that much, it's definitely not overpowering or anything, I hardly even notice it. The hops come through fairly strongly, I think with a little time it'll age and mellow into something even better. Provided the vanilla doesn't fall apart: I'm not sure how long the stuff I tried before had sat around in the keg and I have always thought of vanilla as a fairly "delicate" flavor. Not strawberry delicate, but in that direction.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:32
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Hey homebrew thread, hit me with necessary beer books.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:42
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"Radical Brewing" and "Designing Great Beers".
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Jun 28, 2013 04:49
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http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/03/book-review-schedule-set.html?m=1 Radical Brewing is my go-to for everything. Everyone should own it. Designing Great Beers is situationally useful but the specifics are outdated if you're looking to brew craft beer as it currently exists in 2013. The historic brewing sections are great though.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:50
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You should worry about that historical stuff before you move on to craft beer as it exists in 2013 though,
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Jun 28, 2013 05:06
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I'd throw in Brewing Classic Styles as a useful book for baseline recipes of any style. Other than that, the two previously mentioned cover everything else well. Any missing info about specifics is easy to find online. How to Brew is up there too, and it makes a good reference at times, but it's not necessary.
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Jun 28, 2013 05:16
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How To Brew is good if you like a hard-copy reference for everything, but most of its content can be covered (or superseded) with basic internet research these days. edit: Now that I look at my bookshelf, I'm pretty sure that the book I was thinking of when I wrote down "Designing Great Beers" was actually "Brewing Classic Styles".
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Jun 28, 2013 05:22
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I own Brewing Classic Styles and Designing Great Beers. Designing Great Beers is super intense to read and I find a lot of what I've skimmed over to be useless unless I want to brew a GABF winning beer, which I honestly don't care about. Brewing Classic Styles is my go-to though for a baseline for what a style should be. I love that book and use it often. Radical Brewing is on my list and I read TMF so I'm set there!
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Jun 28, 2013 05:36
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withak posted:You should worry about that historical stuff before you move on to craft beer as it exists in 2013 though, Yeah I would definitely suggest becoming comfortable working with bog myrtle before you tackle trying to use pellet hops. Oh and you want a Blue Moon clone? No way chump, you need to learn the raw wheat triple decoction of the German masters first. E: I do agree with you , just not that you need to learn about historical stuff before diving into modern styles. A more accurate criticism on my part for Designing Great Beers would be that there are a ton of styles and ingredients (popular right now) not represented because of the nature of the book and when it was written. fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 12:52
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fullroundaction posted:Yeah I would definitely suggest becoming comfortable working with bog myrtle before you tackle trying to use pellet hops. This context of historical seems more about learning to run with APAs and porters before shooting for the haute couture of barrel aged stouts, IIIIPAs, and mega barley wines of 2013. Which means Designing Great Beers is still as relevant as it ever was even if the frankenrecipes are based on winners of a different era of beer.
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Jun 28, 2013 14:04
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Yeah that makes sense, I guess I read it the wrong way. Good luck trying to stop a new homebrewer though. I don't know if my experience is typical (though I think it probably is for a lot of people) but: quote:1. Successfully brew a pale ale extract kit from Northern Brewer. Tastes pretty good! I still make other stuff, but I'm drat sure it's going to be the best possible recipe and execution I could have put together before even ordering the grain. fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 14:19
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Mine was more like 1. Get a kit and make lovely pale ale 2. READ SO MUCH ALL THE TIME ABOUT BEER, make some other 'kit' garbage 3. Become deranged in homebrew fervor; buy sacks before having a mash tun, play with fruit, SPREAD SHEETS 4. Don't not don't never stop reading about beer techniques; Berliner, sour beers, different mash techniques 5. Become engrossed with a style; FANCO-BELGIAN LIKE WUT 6. Do some old poo poo; pre-prohibition beers (am here now) 7. Circle back to 3?; Planning IPAs and 'basic' drinkers
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Jun 28, 2013 15:10
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fullroundaction posted:1. Successfully brew a pale ale extract kit from Northern Brewer. Tastes pretty good! This has basically been my experience to the T. This past winter was full of failures that I had to choke down with my buddies. They weren't awful, but way too overzealous without any real experience with what I was doing. Been rocking a really nice saison this summer so far, easily the best beer I've brewed to date, and done by-the-book.
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Jun 28, 2013 17:51
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I've been all about simplicity lately. I did a single-hop Belma IPA (10lb 2-row, 1lb crystal 40), 60 IBU of belma, US-05 which turned out delicious. Then I did a dry Simcoe pale (4 lb 2-row, 4 lb maris otter, 3/4 lb table sugar) with 50 IBU of Simcoe and US-05 which is tasting good and just needs to be bottled. Then a couple days ago, I did a Willamette-rye thing with 5 lb 2-row, 1 lb maris otter (had it laying around), and 4 pounds of rye malt with about 40 IBU of willamette and WY1450, which just started out but the airlock smells amazing.
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Jun 28, 2013 18:03
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The nice thing is that it is virtually impossible to screw up badly enough that you can't drink the result.
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Jun 28, 2013 18:28
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crazyfish posted:I've been all about simplicity lately. I did a single-hop Belma IPA (10lb 2-row, 1lb crystal 40), 60 IBU of belma, US-05 which turned out delicious. Then I did a dry Simcoe pale (4 lb 2-row, 4 lb maris otter, 3/4 lb table sugar) with 50 IBU of Simcoe and US-05 which is tasting good and just needs to be bottled. Then a couple days ago, I did a Willamette-rye thing with 5 lb 2-row, 1 lb maris otter (had it laying around), and 4 pounds of rye malt with about 40 IBU of willamette and WY1450, which just started out but the airlock smells amazing. What's also great about being simple is that you have not tricks to hide behind; and it really shows that you're actually a good brewer. More and more my mead recipes have been limited instead of weirdomels. My three honey traditional is coming along great (I think I'm going to sneak a taste tonight)! and my bochet came out great too (half gone though =[ ).
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Jun 28, 2013 18:34
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withak posted:The nice thing is that it is virtually impossible to screw up badly enough that you can't drink the result. My Belgian Coconut Blonde ale would like a word with you.
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Jun 28, 2013 19:31
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