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concise posted:If you want a BMW, get one. Coming from an Outback H6 I couldn't be happier with my 330xi. Strangely enough, I'm not really pining for the WRX I used to have either. 
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Jun 25, 2013 21:16
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What's up 335 Colorado buddy
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Jun 25, 2013 21:55
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I've probably said it before, but if you do a lot of night driving in an e36, euro projectors are absolutely worth the money. Just realigned them after swapping from my rusty 328 to M3. (and I used marks to align them, I just took a picture after the tape was removed)
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Jun 26, 2013 02:52
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Anyone going to be at the E30 Picnic this weekend? I'll be there with my new ride, a 1990 325iS.
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Jun 26, 2013 05:24
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So can I safely ignore iDrive for the most part? I had it set up for maintenance alerts, running daylights, etc. when I bought it, and both my iPhone and my wife's Android phone have better map/GPS features. It just seems kind of fussy and annoying to use and I'd rather spend my time getting to know my 328i by driving it, not figuring out the user interface.
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Jun 26, 2013 16:51
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Goons, I might do something crazy at lunch today. It's a full M-Sport hiding behind those silly wheels. Cons: Unknown service history Stupid wheels Automatic Overpriced Last reported service at Seattle BMW was back in 2008 Pros: M-Sport Low miles 2 owners Edit: I forgot, it has the loving ski bag! I have my checklist of questions and things to look at. Time to go haggle 
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Jun 26, 2013 18:09
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ibntumart posted:So can I safely ignore iDrive for the most part? I had it set up for maintenance alerts, running daylights, etc. when I bought it, and both my iPhone and my wife's Android phone have better map/GPS features. It just seems kind of fussy and annoying to use and I'd rather spend my time getting to know my 328i by driving it, not figuring out the user interface. Its got lots of useful features and things to configure (like triple blink ect)- its worthwhile to figure it out. You can always read the manual on the can if you don't want to spend your in car time figuring it out.
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Jun 26, 2013 18:26
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If this is an F30 328 you can do a shitload of other stuff (like turning off warnings/auto unlock/disable auto start stop) via coding if you have a laptop....see the Bimmerfest coding forum.
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Jun 26, 2013 19:19
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Wombot posted:M-Sport shenanigans Or not. So I get to the dealer, talk to a sales dudebro, and he goes to find the keys. They're missing, but the car still shows up as available. He talks to his manager, apparently some Oregonian put in an online hold of some sort, and the sale dude he worked with hid the car somewhere and took the keys home with him. Because this dealer doesn't hold cars. So, if Mr. Oregon fails to pick it up by Saturday morning, theoretically I get a phonecall. I did manage to find the car on their lot (about a 1/4 mile away from the front office, down a deadend, hidden in the middle of a bunch of SUVs and trucks) and it is sexy.
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Jun 26, 2013 21:46
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I just bought a really nice '01 528i for cheap. Nothing was wrong when I test drove it but the PO said the abs/traction control module sometimes has issues. It can be remedied temporarily by unplugging/plugging back in the module. A dealer quoted her $1200 for a replacement, but I'm gonna try and get it rebuilt online. Any goon-preferred place to get this done?
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Jun 26, 2013 22:37
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Wombot posted:Or not. IIRC those transmissions were known for failure at 100-120K on a pretty regular basis, especially the seal between the trans and the bellhousing. Also those aren't original M-sport wheels, and considering they're generic looking BMW wheels that someone probably sold for $100 it wouldn't surprise me if that thing had been slid into a curb or some other alignment/frame-loving accident. I would get the VIN run to check out the car's history at least.
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Jun 27, 2013 00:33
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This sounds like a bit of runaround for a dealer. I'd bolt, just because I'm picky like that.
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Jun 27, 2013 00:35
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Jonny 290 posted:This sounds like a bit of runaround for a dealer. I'd bolt, just because I'm picky like that. Yeah this doesn't sit well with me. I'd either bolt or get a really thorough pre-purchase inspection from my mechanic if I really liked it. And walk if they don't go for it and don't come back.
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Jun 27, 2013 01:26
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And I know it's low(ish) miles, but nearly 17k for an auto 540 is just retarded. Thats a 12k car at best, and good luck getting the dealer to go that low.
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Jun 27, 2013 01:46
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You guys posted:TRUTH Yea, and as of 2:32pm, they relisted it on CL. Either they're jerking people around, or the left hand and the right hand aren't on speaking terms. The VIN comes up clean, but like I said, it stopped having BMW Seattle Service marked in 2008. If it had been available, first order of business was a trip to Munich Evo to get inspected. That's good to know about the automatics going tits up at 100k+! I'm going down to Portland this weekend on unrelated business, and hope to at the very least talk to this guy: http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3885575302.html (Again though, it's an auto) Anyone have recommendations for awesome BMW shops in PDX to do pre-buy inspections?
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Jun 27, 2013 02:23
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Stuttgart Autotech is probably the most reputable Portland area indie shop (owner used to be head mechanic at a local BMW dealer), but they're also one of the pricier indie shops - but worth it if you absolutely want the most skilled and reputable shop. Pro-tek and Dynasport are two other shops that do good work and have a lot of BMW experience/owners who are BMW geeks. Any of the three should be able to do a thorough PPI.
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Jun 27, 2013 04:35
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Thanks, that's great info!
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Jun 27, 2013 06:31
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Are you considering an M5 since you're looking at stuff in the same price range?
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Jun 27, 2013 08:02
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I've started looking at 540i's as well. What do you guys think about this one? Mileage too high? http://tinyurl.com/nqncxws
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Jun 27, 2013 12:18
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M5 and 540i are definitely not in the same bracket. Plus the last M5 is now pushing 10 years old. Not trying to deter you, but if you looking for a car that is *fairly* economical to maintain and still have some speed, stick with a 540i. Not saying the M5 is a bad car, but you better have some deep pockets for the upcoming service it will need. And these 540i's you guys are coming up with are WAYYYYY to expensive. I purchased my 540i about 3 years ago with 75k miles on it for 11k, with a full service history.
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Jun 27, 2013 14:14
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crutt posted:I've started looking at 540i's as well. What do you guys think about this one? Mileage too high? http://tinyurl.com/nqncxws I just bought a 165k '97, but it was one owner and had good history. If the valley pan's been done, VANOS (if applicable), cooling system and suspension rubber has been addressed, you've probably got a solid car out to 250k miles or so, I'd wager. You should be able to get something like the above for a bit cheaper, though, and don't discount looking around - I scored mine for $4900 by trekking ~500 mi to Austin. Bit of a dice roll, of course, but it can pay off huge.
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Jun 27, 2013 14:40
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Wombot posted:Yea, and as of 2:32pm, they relisted it on CL. Either they're jerking people around, or the left hand and the right hand aren't on speaking terms. The VIN comes up clean, but like I said, it stopped having BMW Seattle Service marked in 2008. If it had been available, first order of business was a trip to Munich Evo to get inspected. I'd look to either Matrix Engineering or AR Auto for PPI services. Those two companies are easily the most respected within the community.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:17
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BlackMK4 posted:Are you considering an M5 since you're looking at stuff in the same price range? Unless some little old Grandma sells me one for like, $5k, no. The ones in my price range don't have a reliable enough history to be worth it, and the ones with the reliable history are above what I want to spend. Plus M Tax. As for BrokenKnucklez posted:And these 540i's you guys are coming up with are WAYYYYY to expensive. I purchased my 540i about 3 years ago with 75k miles on it for 11k, with a full service history. The only ones I'm willing to entertain anything near 13k for are the 2003 M Sports like the example in Portland I linked to, where the guy has been on the ball with service, replaced the big pieces, on or ahead of schedule, etc. Otherwise I'm haggling around 10k, if it even passes my preliminary inspection. Alphabet thanks for the recommendations! Edit: Oh fack: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/3899404347.html 2003 540i/6 M Sport, in the color I love, but it's at 140k and in the bay area in California. Wombot fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 23:12
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Das Volk posted:How long does it take from deposit to delivery to get a build-to-order car from them? So it turns out that if you're really impatient (like me!  ) you can actually view your car's progress here: aprs.fi with the container ship's name. That way you don't have to stare at this for 4 weeks:
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Jun 28, 2013 01:50
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Just picked up a CPO 2010 328i sports package. I originally went in to look at a used GTI that was supposed to be manual but ended up being automatic, and this was the only manual they had (the dealership has seven different lots, too). Really happy with it; it's a nice upgrade from my 97 328is.
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Jun 28, 2013 02:45
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Very nice! I love that color, it's pretty close to my first, an '06. My '09 is Barbera, and tends to look more purple. If you're inclined to mod, the first thing is to remove the CDV, and fix the shifting. If you want a smoother power band and a couple more horsepower, the tune from Active Autowerke is pretty good, and they're great people.
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Jun 28, 2013 02:49
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That's a great looking car!
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Jun 28, 2013 04:24
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Alarbus posted:Very nice! I love that color, it's pretty close to my first, an '06. My '09 is Barbera, and tends to look more purple. Along with the CDV delete I recommend the short throw clutch stop as well. It takes out the extra inch or so at the bottom of the pedal throw that does nothing as the clutch is already disengaged.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:38
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I know BMW isn't the only mfr to do this but why on earth do they insist on CDV/CDS? At least on the M cars I can bring a pick and some needle nose with me to defeat it. Having to get into the hydraulic system to fix it sounds like such a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 28, 2013 05:06
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Das Volk posted:I know BMW isn't the only mfr to do this but why on earth do they insist on CDV/CDS? At least on the M cars I can bring a pick and some needle nose with me to defeat it. Having to get into the hydraulic system to fix it sounds like such a pain in the rear end. It protects the transmission, diff and axles from the shock of sidestepping a clutch. They don't replace clutches under warranty usually, they usually have to replace the aforementioned parts unless they can prove abuse.
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Jun 28, 2013 05:35
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Just curious: is there any reason to mod a stock BMW if you're just planning on commuting and occasionally travelling a couple of hours to visit family? My 328i seems awesome to me stock, but I did only buy it last weekend and am coming from driving Honda Civics and Saturn Ions most of my adult life.
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Jun 28, 2013 08:03
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Das Volk posted:I know BMW isn't the only mfr to do this but why on earth do they insist on CDV/CDS? At least on the M cars I can bring a pick and some needle nose with me to defeat it. Having to get into the hydraulic system to fix it sounds like such a pain in the rear end. Unless I'm mistaken, the E9X M cars came free from CDV pieces 
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Jun 28, 2013 08:15
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thealphabetsez posted:Unless I'm mistaken, the E9X M cars came free from CDV pieces No, they did throw us a bone in that they put a spring in the clutch instead of a delay valve. Still feels like poo poo, much easier to rectify.
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Jun 28, 2013 08:35
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ibntumart posted:Just curious: is there any reason to mod a stock BMW if you're just planning on commuting and occasionally travelling a couple of hours to visit family? My 328i seems awesome to me stock, but I did only buy it last weekend and am coming from driving Honda Civics and Saturn Ions most of my adult life. If you have a manual, removing the CDV takes the guesswork out of your clutch. I know now where and when it engages, instead of being surprised every time. It's not that bad, I've done three now, and my dad's only sucked because I didn't have the clip in place and took a bunch of brake fluid on my face. As far as a tune, there aren't many for the N52 engine, but Active Autowerke's is pretty nice. On my E90 325, I used the tune and the intake manifold from a 330, making it 95% 330, so substantially more than the original 215hp. On the 328, I just did the tune, since the unlock fee for their hand held programmer was pretty reasonable. It smooths out the power band, and gets you a couple more hp and ft/lb of torque. I'm being lazy about sourcing a second intake manifold, largely because that jobs an absolute bitch. Lots more fun to drive, though.
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Jun 28, 2013 11:55
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Das Volk posted:No, they did throw us a bone in that they put a spring in the clutch instead of a delay valve. Still feels like poo poo, much easier to rectify. I wondered about this. Are you sure the E9X don't have the CDV? My clutch feels like poo poo and is vague/ambiguous. Everyone I've let drive the car is thrown off by it.
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Jun 28, 2013 15:27
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Jealous Cow posted:I wondered about this. Are you sure the E9X don't have the CDV? My clutch feels like poo poo and is vague/ambiguous. Everyone I've let drive the car is thrown off by it. http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195777
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Jun 28, 2013 15:38
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Awesome, thanks!
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Jun 28, 2013 16:07
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Alarbus posted:If you have a manual, removing the CDV takes the guesswork out of your clutch. I know now where and when it engages, instead of being surprised every time. It's not that bad, I've done three now, and my dad's only sucked because I didn't have the clip in place and took a bunch of brake fluid on my face. Mine is an E90, too, but it's an automatic, so the CDV's not an issue, I guess. How much work would the handheld programmer entail? Is it just a matter of hooking it up and tweaking settings or it is an always on-board, always-on sort of thing I'd have to clip on? And how much is fuel efficiency impacted by all of this?
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Jun 28, 2013 17:27
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ibntumart posted:Mine is an E90, too, but it's an automatic, so the CDV's not an issue, I guess. How much work would the handheld programmer entail? Is it just a matter of hooking it up and tweaking settings or it is an always on-board, always-on sort of thing I'd have to clip on? And how much is fuel efficiency impacted by all of this? The hand held is pretty great. You hook it to the obd2 port and read the ecu, then you dump the file to a computer so you can email it to their software guy. He usually sends it back in under an hour. Save file to reader, push file to ecu, done. Nothing is hooked up permanently. And, if bmw updates your car, you can get a reset code to re read the ecu to fix it (I've also had to do this). The two things to keep in mind are, one, you'll want a battery tender, it's a long read time, and two, don't be a dumb rear end and forget that you have to leave the key in the ignition. That took me a few days to figure out, I'm so accustomed to comfort access new. I haven't noticed any real impact to fuel efficiency, but I'm not tracking it very carefully.
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Jun 28, 2013 17:38
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Das Volk posted:I know BMW isn't the only mfr to do this but why on earth do they insist on CDV/CDS? At least on the M cars I can bring a pick and some needle nose with me to defeat it. Having to get into the hydraulic system to fix it sounds like such a pain in the rear end. It is a bit of a pain in the rear end to remove the hydraulic CDV, but really not that bad. Only takes about 15-20 minutes. I still think it's dumb that they insist on installing them. Especially considering that anyone that buys a manual BMW at this point probably generally knows what they're doing. That said, the difference after removing the CDV on my 330ci was not nearly as large as the internet hype had led me to believe it would be. Yes it is an improvement, yes I still recommend removing it, but it's not some night-and-day transformative difference like some people make it out to be. It does eliminate the inconsistent clutch vagueness, most notably on the 1-2 shift and when downshift revmatching. Now when I release the clutch, it releases now not some fraction of a second later than now. I don't randomly flub the 1-2 shift like a scrub anymore, and that alone is worth the effort.
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Jun 28, 2013 18:51
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