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Juaguocio posted:Play on the one, and don't fake the funk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHE6hZU72A4
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Jun 30, 2013 06:49
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Played one of the Fender Cabronitas today at a local shop and was really impressed. The pickup is way cool and fat, that neck feels awesome. Are there any other basses out there besides the Mike Dirnt signature with a similar neck? I like the Cabronita just fine, but I like to have options.
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Jun 30, 2013 21:18
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scuz posted:Played one of the Fender Cabronitas today at a local shop and was really impressed. The pickup is way cool and fat, that neck feels awesome. Are there any other basses out there besides the Mike Dirnt signature with a similar neck? I like the Cabronita just fine, but I like to have options. Looking at the neck stats, the Classic Series 70's P-bass also has the "C-Shape" neck and 9.5" radius. So I'd check that. http://www.fender.com/basses/precision-bass/70s-precision-bass-maple-fingerboard-3-color-sunburst-3-ply-bwb-pickguard Everything else seems to have a Modern C or Large C, or if they do have the standard C-Shape, it's a 7.25" radius.
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Jun 30, 2013 22:18
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The local music shop has an Eden 4x10 for sale for $200. I don't really have anywhere to put it, but it sounds so nice when I run my Markbass through it...
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Jul 2, 2013 05:24
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Scarf posted:Looking at the neck stats, the Classic Series 70's P-bass also has the "C-Shape" neck and 9.5" radius. So I'd check that.  CaseFace McGee posted:The local music shop has an Eden 4x10 for sale for $200. I don't really have anywhere to put it, but it sounds so nice when I run my Markbass through it...
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Jul 2, 2013 06:33
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scuz posted:Thanks, Scarf. The same shop happens to have the 70's P-bass you're talking about, so I might just have to A/B a few things I've yet to get my hands on a Cabronita... but those Classic 70s feel really nice (like most everything from Fender these days), and block inlays... Especially if they have the one in Olympic White  . And honestly it might just be the C-Shape that's catching your attention, so I wouldn't worry about the radius too much on the others that have a 7.25".My only concern with the Cabronita is the pickup. As prone as we all are to modding, you might want to check around to see who else makes pickups with that kind of footprint for bass. Not saying that it doesn't sound good (I have no idea), but at some point we all get the urge to drop in new pickups. Scarf fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 14:14
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CaseFace McGee posted:The local music shop has an Eden 4x10 for sale for $200. I don't really have anywhere to put it, but it sounds so nice when I run my Markbass through it... Buy it right now. People in my area usually want ~$500 for a D410XLT.
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Jul 2, 2013 16:39
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Trillest Parrot posted:Buy it right now. People in my area usually want ~$500 for a D410XLT. It's a D410T made in 2004, not an XLT, but it's sitting in my car anyway. An employee owed me, and he's going to pay for almost all of it in hours. While I was there, I ordered a new endpin for my upright and picked up the set of 5-string La Bella tapewounds that has been sitting on his shelf for over a year.
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Jul 2, 2013 23:47
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This might be a little off-subject for the thread, but I had a really great time playing on my own and was working on something that's been stuck in my head. I'm not quite arrogant enough to think I actually wrote this, although that would be cool. Is there an acceptable place to link the recording I got in case someone might be able to help me figure out whatever I was channeling this afternoon?
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Jul 3, 2013 08:08
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Jonithen posted:This might be a little off-subject for the thread, but I had a really great time playing on my own and was working on something that's been stuck in my head. I'm not quite arrogant enough to think I actually wrote this, although that would be cool. Is there an acceptable place to link the recording I got in case someone might be able to help me figure out whatever I was channeling this afternoon? There is a thread on the first page of No Music Discussion called Help Me Identify a Song megathread. I'm on my phone so I can't really post the link but its not hard to find.
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Jul 3, 2013 12:00
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Crosspost from gear trades: I think I'm finally ready to sell my Lakland Hollowbody in order to help fund a new upright purchase. I'm the original owner, ordered it directly from Lakland. Lakland Skyline Hollowbody 4-string (designed in conjunction with Michael Tobias) 34" scale 2+2 headstock with Hipshot Ultralite tuners Bone nut (installed at my request by Lakland) 2 Lakland Chi-Sonic single-coil pickups (originally humbuckers with a single-coil tap, but had problems with them and Lakland offered to switch them out for single-coils which they felt sounded better anyway) More info on it here: http://lakland.com/hollowbody.htm I can get soundclips for anyone seriously interested, as well as more detailed pictures.  
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Jul 3, 2013 16:04
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why oh WHY posted:There is a thread on the first page of No Music Discussion called Help Me Identify a Song megathread. I'm on my phone so I can't really post the link but its not hard to find. Beautiful, found it. Many thanks.
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Jul 3, 2013 17:09
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Scarf posted:Crosspost from gear trades: Oh, and it's strung with some 3yo La Bella DT Flats. And hardshell case included.
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Jul 3, 2013 18:28
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This should probably be in the OP.
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Jul 6, 2013 02:26
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Terrible trip report time  Took the band out to a show in the Mojave for the fourth, where temperatures were in excess of 110 degrees Fahrenheit. My amp headwas sitting in a small plastic overhead strapped to the top of the car, so it was probably frying in the sun all day, and if that wasn't bad enough, it was dropped in the unloading process. So, when it comes time to set everything up, my bass is real farty and distorted so I have to mix and match and adjust levels and create backups with the DI and PA until it finally sounded okay again. But, after playing through our first set, I turn the amp off for 15 minutes, and when I get back, it makes a little fizzly sound and then... silence. I'm pretty sure my cabinet is okay. But, from the sound of it, I've fried my Ashdown MAG600's power amp, which really sucks because now I need to either figure out how to fix it, or replace it. There are some half decent replacement options in the used section at Guitar Center, including a big tube Carvin head and an Ampeg SVT Pro III, both around $200-300, but I'd really like to try and get the amp fixed. Does anyone have any experience in analyzing an amp/power amp? If I've deduced this much, is there any chance I can find the broken part if I can get my hands on a multimeter?
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Jul 7, 2013 21:49
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Jeff Goldblum posted:Terrible trip report time Have you verified the preamp is ok? You should just be able to test this by run the effects send line to another amp or mixer if you haven't tried yet. Here are some threads that could help in regards to schematics, and seems to be a decent forum in regards to troubleshooting: http://music-electronics-forum.com/t29905/ http://music-electronics-forum.com/t28046/ (for the 300 but I'd imagine its pretty similar) If repairing doesn't work out, that SVT III Pro could be a good deal assuming it is functioning 100%, they have a common fault with the connection on the effects loop that makes the amp flaky (though it can be repaired). If you try one out and it doesn't seem to have enough power, remember to use the graphic EQ to boost the overall level.
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Jul 7, 2013 22:14
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I haven't tried the effects send, I should probably give that a look. I just assumed the pre-amp was working because the Ashdowns come with a VU-meter, which was still showing an input signal. But, the more I think about it, the more I begin to think that doesn't prove anything.
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Jul 8, 2013 01:03
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I'm thinking of getting a SansAmp cause the tone is solid and I've heard a lot of great stuff about it but I don't know very much about it. Is it just a preamp? Can I run it to a cab and DI simultaneously, and will it sound like rear end if I do? Which version is best? I was looking at this one but I'm not opposed to getting another one if its closer to what I'm looking for.
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Jul 11, 2013 03:48
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Bruce Boxliker posted:I'm thinking of getting a SansAmp cause the tone is solid and I've heard a lot of great stuff about it but I don't know very much about it. Is it just a preamp? Can I run it to a cab and DI simultaneously, and will it sound like rear end if I do? Which version is best? I was looking at this one but I'm not opposed to getting another one if its closer to what I'm looking for. It's a really versatile little preamp with drive capabilities and a DI all in one. You can put it in your chain like any other pedal, use it as the pre for a poweramp, and then simultaneously send it to a board via the DI, or if you're in a studio setting or have a great PA and don't want to bother with an amp, just use it as a DI to the board. How it sounds in conjunction with playing through your amp/cabs and DI'd into the board will depend on how you dial it in, and how the soundboard is dialed in (or how competent the sound guy is). I'm a huge fan of the VT Bass version, but you'd have to spring for the VT Bass Deluxe if you want integrated DI. I just have the VT Bass at the end of my chain, and have it going into a separate DI box via 1/4" plug, then send it to my amp, leaving the XLR open to send to a board if needed. 
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Jul 11, 2013 04:17
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Bruce Boxliker posted:I'm thinking of getting a SansAmp cause the tone is solid and I've heard a lot of great stuff about it but I don't know very much about it. Is it just a preamp? Can I run it to a cab and DI simultaneously, and will it sound like rear end if I do? Which version is best? I was looking at this one but I'm not opposed to getting another one if its closer to what I'm looking for. That model has been around forever and will do what you're looking for it to do. There's also a DI version of the VT Bass Scarf mentioned that's coming out soon (supposedly) - http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SACVTBass2DI You should be able to find the BDDI and the VT Bass in stores to try out and compare the sounds, as that will be the main difference between the two (and even then they can get pretty close to each other).
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Jul 11, 2013 04:29
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I'm not a fan of the standard Sansamp BDDI. I feel like it emphasizes all the frequencies that I don't want to boost, resulting in muddy bass, clanky mids and shrill treble. The VT Bass is much nicer.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:14
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Woop woop, new loot. It's a 2010 G&L L-2000 bass, sounds really good and isn't too heavy (great for me, the other one is kinda heavy for a long session of play) purchased used for 550$ I'm pretty happy with it, for the price did I do right?  Edit : It's also got the straightest neck i've ever owned on an instrument.
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Jul 12, 2013 22:49
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DrChu posted:That model has been around forever and will do what you're looking for it to do. There's also a DI version of the VT Bass Scarf mentioned that's coming out soon (supposedly) - http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SACVTBass2DI This looks pretty cool, any idea when it'll be released?
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Jul 13, 2013 06:08
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Odddzy posted:Woop woop, new loot. That looks like a very short bass, how does it balance?
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Jul 13, 2013 06:19
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Odddzy posted:Woop woop, new loot. I'm assuming that's a USA L2K and if that's the case, yes you got a deal. I absolutely love my L2K, it's the bass I always have near by desk ready to jam at a moments notice. My next target is a M-2500 but I sadly don't have the budget for it at the moment. I might have to offload my Stingray or Bongo for it. 
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Jul 13, 2013 06:33
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I am a man with simple needs. Now I am a happy man.
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Jul 13, 2013 19:41
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Aw poo poo guys, i'm the guy with the new bass that just posted. It was in a pretty humid room overnight and now there's fret buzz on a lot of places on it. I moved it to a dryer room hoping it's going to make it stop but i'm kinda frightened it won't help. What should i do next?
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Jul 14, 2013 16:46
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Odddzy posted:Aw poo poo guys, i'm the guy with the new bass that just posted. It was in a pretty humid room overnight and now there's fret buzz on a lot of places on it. I moved it to a dryer room hoping it's going to make it stop but i'm kinda frightened it won't help. What should i do next? Not a big deal. It probably just needs a truss rod adjustment. I'm on my phone, but there are plenty of bass setup guides online to help you out.
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Jul 14, 2013 16:56
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The Bunk posted:Not a big deal. It probably just needs a truss rod adjustment. I'm on my phone, but there are plenty of bass setup guides online to help you out. Thanks man, do you know a website or someplace that could do a nice step by step? The buzz is pretty much all over the bass from fret 1 to 6-8 and then from something like 15 to the rest. It isn't big buzz depending on where and how i attack the strings.
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Jul 14, 2013 17:34
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Odddzy posted:Thanks man, do you know a website or someplace that could do a nice step by step? The buzz is pretty much all over the bass from fret 1 to 6-8 and then from something like 15 to the rest. It isn't big buzz depending on where and how i attack the strings.
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Jul 14, 2013 17:42
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I'm going to sell my trusty, beloved Lakland 55-02 Deluxe fretless. Why? This is why:    Mid-90s Roscoe LG3005, figured maple top, ebony board, 3 band Barts and plays like a loving dream. Thinking about having the board epoxied as I have always loved that Pedulla Pentabuzz feeling, and think that I'll be hanging on to this bass for a while. I have it strung with a high C right now which I am also really enjoying- the only problem is that it may ruin all other instruments for me.
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Jul 14, 2013 18:24
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Dominoes posted:It sounds like you may need to raise the action. Generally, loosening the trussrod (more bow in the neck) will fix buzz on the lower frets, while tightening it fixes buzz high up. A rule of thumb for adjusting the truss rod is to find a setting where buzz is even across the neck, with a low action set. Then raise the action until the buzz goes away. The buzz appears when i attack the strings strongly. Could I just be playing too strongly on them?
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Jul 14, 2013 19:27
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Odddzy posted:The buzz appears when i attack the strings strongly. Could I just be playing too strongly on them? Your bass should be set up for however you play, if you have a strong attack then your bass should accommodate that playing style, not the other way around. (Within reason, if you want to play super aggressively and also have feather-touch fretting action then you might have problems!) Make sure you're playing through some kind of amp (playing acoustically makes you chug on the strings just to hear them), and you have it set up so you can play comfortably without being forced to compensate. And assuming you were playing the same way without buzz before, that's a sign it's all good and you just need to readjust the bass because of the climate.
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Jul 14, 2013 21:44
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Looking to buy a beginner bass, I've found a used Ibanez ATK200NT, which normally sells for 300-400, for 200, which would be cheaper than the SR200 recommended in the OP - would this actually be a good bass to get started with? It's got a humbucker pick up with bridge/middle/neck switch, which makes me a little wary since I'm mostly looking for an all-round bass.
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Jul 14, 2013 23:45
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Most likely yes. Probly would fit most styles well and is overall better than a gsr200. Test every fret, neck straightness, and if it actually works.
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Jul 15, 2013 00:53
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I had an old Japanese ATK and it was great, though the electronics were heavily modified from original. Anywho, I have my old first bass, an Ibanez GARTB20 sitting on my rack. Electronics are shot, but they weren't great anyway. I have an EMG P pickup lying around. Thinking about how best to mash them together, this song came on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeZHB3ozglQ (ok, ok, he's playing a differently shaped one in the video) I had my muse. Dicked around with an image editor and came up with this body shape  But wait, I have like 6 hand tools and no ability to fill my garage with all manner of powered equipment. The answer is to take a page from cigar box guitar builders in terms of general construction and bracing, but make the box myself, much in the style of a danelectro guitar: pine frame with masonite or plywood top and back. The neck pocket and pickup hole is easy to do without a router, and I should be able to keep the other edges square by hand without too much consternation. Tomorrow I'll get my dimensions together and then maybe get my materials and do some cutting. e:  Looks like I'm not the only one who's had this idea. I don't quite like the upper horn on this one, though. TopherCStone fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 03:34
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 I played this '70s (I think) Epiphone hollowbody at Guitar Center the other day but I couldn't justify the $500 for it with the work it would've required. It had washers for strap buttons, a humbucker wedged into the neck slot... I did love the aesthetic though. And now I'm window shopping hollowbody basses. Edit: but not in black. That makes it more difficult. Revvik fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jul 20, 2013 |
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Jul 20, 2013 01:55
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Did you try haggling? GC prices usually have some wiggle room built into them. Bring up the issues and what you think is a fair price to address them and see if they would knock it off the price.
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Jul 20, 2013 02:54
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Revvik posted:
Looks like an Epiphone Rivoli bass. They're pretty great. EDIT: Actually apparently it's an Epiphone EA-260. But yeah, they routed out the neck pickup and threw in a mud-bucker to basically make it a Rivoli. PS my Lakland hollowbody is still for sale... >_> Scarf fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jul 20, 2013 |
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Jul 20, 2013 06:14
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Scarf posted:PS my Lakland hollowbody is still for sale... >_> If I could afford it, I totally would have, that is seriously one gorgeous instrument. I'm going to see if I can find an Artcore or something to play around with, idk. And I may go back and try to haggle with them if it's still there after a couple weeks. In the meantime, I walked out of there with a $50 Premier P-Bass with nonworking electronics. It is currently scattered in pieces all over my living room. The pickup wiring on it was done by tying the wires together and capping it with masking tape. I had a replacement volume and tone pot wired to a Duncan SP3 Quarter Pounder ready to drop in about 20 minutes after I got home, but I'm just waiting on some paint to dry and a cheap-o maple 'boarded neck to arrive. I'll probably bolt it together with the old neck to check out the sound of the new pickup at practice on Sunday, then tear it down again when the new neck arrives. I'm debating on getting a new bridge. The old one works well enough but is a high mass replacement worth the money? On a parts bass? Or would I basically just be paying $90 to have a piece of metal with the word BADASS on it?
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Jul 20, 2013 09:42
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