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kansas posted:Premium gas is typically 20 cents more expensive than regular and let's assume you get an average of 25 mpg. Spending an extra $500/year because of premium would mean you are driving 62,500 miles a year. Where do you live that premium gas currently costs only 20 cents more per gallon? I have not seen that in years. In Florida it's typically between 30-40 cents higher, so let's call it 35 cents. I drive an Infiniti EX35 which averages around 20mpg. I drive about 36k per year. That's $630 per year, so my $500 estimate was pretty fair. Edit: AAA has the current average national prices for regular and premium at exactly 35 cents apart. rockcity fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 14:21
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Lawnie posted:I also have a secondary question: is it cheaper for me to buy a car in Indiana or Illinois, tax-wise? My gut says Indiana but I don't know. Most states (and Indiana is one of them) will require you to pay in-state sales taxes when registering a recently-bought out-of-state car. Sales/Use Tax Indiana residents who purchase a vehicle from another state and pay more than Indiana’s seven percent (7%) sales tax will receive credit from Indiana for taxes paid in that other state. If you paid less than seven percent (7%) sales tax when you purchased your vehicle in another state, you will present proof of this and will pay the difference to Indiana.
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Jul 1, 2013 21:05
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Yeah if states didn't charge sales tax at time of registration, no one in Washington would ever buy a car in-state (almost 10% sales tax, but no income tax) when our neighbor Oregon has no sales tax.
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Jul 1, 2013 21:11
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Easy question for the VW guys about. Looking to buy a Jetta Sportwagen TDI shortly, and I'm probably going to end up having to order the damned thing to get what I want, anyway, so I have an opportunity to be picky. (No, mister dealer, I don't want white, or granny-beige. No, I don't want your beige two-toned interior, either.) DSG, or 6 speed manual? I currently drive an '06 GTO with a six speed, so shifting isn't the big deal. I'm aware of, and comfortable with, the 40k service interval on the DSG, but I've heard mixed reviews of the transmission itself, in terms of reliability, and daily-driver livability. (Lots of reports of lazy/sloppy shifting, etc.)
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Jul 1, 2013 23:14
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Most states (and Indiana is one of them) will require you to pay in-state sales taxes when registering a recently-bought out-of-state car. Ah, that's great to know, thanks. I moved on from the genesis and I'm now looking at a certified Infiniti g35x for about 21k in Illinois with about 35k miles on it. Hoping I can bring it closer to $20k when I go in this weekend.
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Jul 1, 2013 23:34
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Weinertron posted:Holy poo poo that was an entirely unintentional slip. Yeah, I wish I lived in a state where there were state subsidies on top of federal. Georgia had a program that would chip in an additional $5k on 2 year or longer leases, so some guy ended up getting a Leaf lease for $50/mo with zero down. I'm in Texas, so zero state support. I guess that for these leases the finance arm is claiming the tax credit? Yes, when you lease an EV, the lease arm takes the tax credit. The big benefit is they take it right out of the purchase price, whereas when you finance and take the credit, you don't get that benefit (so you have to get the money back either via reduced withholdings or your tax refund). Even in those situations you should be putting as little down on the lease as humanly possible. I saw people on the Leaf boards doing zero down three-year leases in CA where they actually ended up with money in their pocket (since the CA rebate is apparently sent to you after the fact). I did the math and the lease offers I was getting were near-zero total cost difference between putting $2k down up front and putting $0 down - but if your leased vehicle gets wrecked / stolen / whatever during the lease period, whatever you put down is gone. In other words - if you do a $2k down payment on a 36 month lease, and the car gets written off a year into it, the entire $2k is gone. If you do $0 down and the car gets written off a year into it, you've only paid somewhere between $600 and $700 worth of the increased monthly payment.
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Jul 2, 2013 00:06
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Hmm, so I'm looking into a new-to-me car and I'm... pretty lost. Proposed Budget: $6k~$10k New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 Door Car How will you be using the car?: Commuting (30-45mins each way) and errands/etc Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Nope (I'm guessing air conditioning isn't a luxury anymore?) What aspects are most important to you? Reliable, lowish maintenance, handles okay Location/etc: Alberta, Canada My budget is kind of wide because I'm not sure what would be reasonable for what I want. Ideally, I'd like a nice used Honda Civic-Equivalent, probably going to drive it for the next 3~4 years and I don't have to worry too much about money. I'm a recent engineering graduate and got a nice job ($62k/year, whoop). I do have student loans, but they aren't particularly large. I don't really need much out of a car, other than it would save me a lot of time getting around the city. I'm pretty good as far as getting groceries and commuting. But if I need to go anywhere outside of that (Canadian Tire, Mall, Parent's house, bank) it takes a lot more time than I'd like. I also don't know what to expect for insurance/gas payments. I'm going to ask my boyfriend's roommate what she pays, but that's only one data point. Where's the best place to look for used vehicles? Kijiji? Autotrader.ca? Dealerships?
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Jul 2, 2013 00:25
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MrYenko posted:Easy question for the VW guys about. Looking to buy a Jetta Sportwagen TDI shortly, and I'm probably going to end up having to order the damned thing to get what I want, anyway, so I have an opportunity to be picky. (No, mister dealer, I don't want white, or granny-beige. No, I don't want your beige two-toned interior, either.) If planning to own beyond the powertrain warranty, 6 speed all the way.
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Jul 2, 2013 02:42
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MrYenko posted:Easy question for the VW guys about. Looking to buy a Jetta Sportwagen TDI shortly, and I'm probably going to end up having to order the damned thing to get what I want, anyway, so I have an opportunity to be picky. (No, mister dealer, I don't want white, or granny-beige. No, I don't want your beige two-toned interior, either.) 6 speed. I have the same tranny in my Golf TDI. Better MPG as well with the manual gearing.
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Jul 2, 2013 02:51
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Do you like your shifter feel to be like stirring a broom handle in a bucket of mid size rocks? A VW TDI transmission is right up your alley, then! If you plan to keep it, and it's TDI, I think the stick is a better choice, but god drat does it need quite a bit of work to make it feel not like utter poo poo.
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Jul 2, 2013 03:04
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Do you like your shifter feel to be like stirring a broom handle in a bucket of mid size rocks? A VW TDI transmission is right up your alley, then! I couldn't disagree more. Sure, it isnt the slickest transmission out there but it isn't bad. Better than my old Speed3 transmission certainly.
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Jul 2, 2013 03:08
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Dangbe posted:Thanks for the recommendations! Some notes from a few months of Impreza ownership: Pros: Sharp handling Very comfortable, open interior Excellent driving position/visibility Lots of rear legroom for a compact Flappy paddles make the CVT more tolerable Cons: Excessive road noise Interior rattles resonate from every corner of the cabin CVT makes the car feel slower than it really is; only gets decent milage if you are extremely light on the throttle Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 16:01
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A few days into my car search, I've figured some things out. I've decided I want a sedan, and the forerunner is the Civic. Now I'm trying to decide between new and used. It basically comes down to about 3.5 - 4 grand between a CPO 2010-11 LX (one owner, well maintained carfax, ~30k miles) and a 2013 LX. I test drove a 2013 and was quite happy with the road noise and suspension. I haven't driven an earlier model yet. I know the reports are that Honda added a good 50-100 lbs of noise insulation to the 2013 and tweaked the suspension a bit, but the question for me comes down to whether or not those improvements (coupled with std stability control, blue tooth, backup camera, 3yr warranty, and the fact that it's new) are worth an additional 3.5-4k. Insurance difference over 5 years is probably 1-1.5k. Interest with my credit union would only be a few hundred dollars difference (I'm preapproved at 1.45%). Fuel economy is a wash. Prospective resale would probably be significant but I don't necessarily see me not driving the thing until the wheels fall off. Thoughts? Obviously I'm lusting after a new car but does that make economical sense for a dude with student loans and possibly a house search in a year?
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Jul 2, 2013 17:01
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dakana posted:Civic From what I understand, the improved noise insulation of the 2013 Civic was in response to the 2012 having noticeably more noise than the previous years. It's definitely supposed to be an improvement over the 2012, but it might not be significant compared to the '10-11. I can't say, but I would be curious to know. This is just from things I've read, so don't pay too much attention. My wife has a '10 and it sounds fine to me, I would like to know how they compare if you happen to test out a used. Medium Style fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 17:53
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So, I've started looking at the Jetta SportWagen TDI because VWs look awesome, it has a lot of space, and it gets great gas mileage. I am wondering what this community thinks of them and if they are a fortune to maintain. Are German cars more of a pain in the rear end to own? Is this a much better option than a Subaru Impreza Hatchback?
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Jul 4, 2013 20:51
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Dangbe posted:So, I've started looking at the Jetta SportWagen TDI because VWs look awesome, it has a lot of space, and it gets great gas mileage. My biggest decision at this point is whether or not to wait for the '14MY redesign...
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Jul 5, 2013 10:48
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dakana posted:Civic Only way to know is just test drive them both. My wife and I bought a 2013 civic in January, we couldn't find a used Civic that would have saved us any real amount of money. The used market in our area is poo poo. The 2013 is pretty quiet on the highway, for our standards. We easily hold conversation without needing to raise our voices. We are averaging 36 MPG driving around the city, and around 40-45 on the highway. Underneath the 10 and the 13 are pretty much the same car, it comes down to how much you want that technology. A backup camera is a very nice perk. The bluetooth is pretty cool and works well for us.
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Jul 5, 2013 12:46
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dakana posted:(I'm preapproved at 1.45%). Let the dealer make you an offer on financing it themselves - when I bought my CR-V, most dealers were able to do 0.9% via Honda Financial and at least one did 0%. At the time (April of this year) Honda was also kicking in an extra $750 dealer cash if you financed through them. This applies to new only - but it might help make the decision easier if the price difference lessens.
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Jul 5, 2013 15:35
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I'm a college student looking to buy my first car. I can look at craigslist postings in my price range and think "Yes, that is certainly a car," but I don't know what's a good deal and what's a car that would either strand me somewhere or bleed my wallet dry. Proposed budget: $5,000. (Less if it doesn't endanger my personal safety.) New or Used: Used Body style: 4-door, midsize or fullsize sedan. (A wagon might work, if the fuel economy didn't suffer for it.) Using the car for: Light/intermittent commuting; occasional roadtrip. Important aspects: Reliability, Cost of Ownership/Maintenance / MPG. I've managed to make it to age 26 without owning a car, and it's become more and more irritating the last couple years. Given the price of gasoline and of parking, I expect I'd continue using public transit for my daily commute, but I don't want to have to check bus schedules when I want to run to the store, or take Greyhound when I visit family out-of-state. What cars are known to still run fine (or are easily repairable) after 120k miles? That seems to be the minimum I see in my price-range. Note: I have never had a driver's license and have unrealistic ideas about how quickly I could acquire one. (As a consequence, automatic transmissions are preferred.)
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Jul 5, 2013 18:57
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Dangbe posted:So, I've started looking at the Jetta SportWagen TDI because VWs look awesome, it has a lot of space, and it gets great gas mileage. Yes, German cars are more of a pain in the rear end to own. Even if it is reliable, VWs, esp TDIs, are pick as gently caress about everything. Right oil, right coolant, probably right washer fluid (the old OEM washer fluid was NLA in the US, and smelled awesome. Yes, dubbers imported it and charged like $10/qt for drat washer fluid). None of this poo poo is available at autozone (that all makes coolant? Not for VWs! They even got sued over that). If you don't? God help you and your warranty. That said, the Jetta wagon is a very nice place to be and drives nice. I'd say it is nicer to drive that an impreza. You have to decied if the pain in the rear end is worth the quiet, well designed interior.
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Jul 5, 2013 19:11
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Anyone know much about the Mazda 5? Been hearing good things about it, but what's its reliability like? How about safety ratings and stuff? Might go test drive one later today, so we'll see how cramped grandma will be in the back, but would like to know how its long-term performance will be.
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Jul 7, 2013 17:16
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I am about to purchase my very first car for work. I am looking at the Mazda3 because I have ridden in my friend's 07 Mazda6 and it is a wonderful car. It is like riding on a cloud. Because the Mazda3 seems like it is similar to the Mazda6 I am leaning towards it. My parents have been long time ford\saturn lovers and haven ridden in a 09 ford focus, as well as the 02 Saturn VUE. They are both terrible. At 30k miles the Focus is starting to fall apart as well. I have about 9k saved up and I may be able to get that up to 12k when I am going to start going from the research phase to looking at different Mazda3's for sale(in two weeks approx.). I tend to see many Mazda 3's in the 04-09 year range as well as some 09 models in this price range. A few questions: 1. Many of the Mazda3s I am seeing (04-09 Models) have around 70K+ miles. Overall does anyone know if these cars tend last to around at least up to 120K-130K miles on the clock without major repairs(transmission\engine etc.)? 2. Do you feel purchasing a car at around 70K+ miles is a wise decision for a first car? (I do have a stable income so I could afford to spend money on repairs but I'd rather save the majority of my income for the next year as a rainy day buffer fund for when I am going to move out next summer) 3. For the price (Lets say 10K ish) What kind year and mileage should I be looking at? 4. I believe the 09 Model year is the start of the C1 platform Mazda3. Is it wise to be looking at this model year as it is the start of the new platform and thus may have issues that are corrected in newer models? Does anyone know of any outstanding issues with the 09 model? Proposed budget: $9,000. (Possibly 10K-12K depending on how much more I can save up in the next month.) New or Used: Used Using the car for: Light/intermittent commuting; occasional roadtrip. Important aspects: Reliability, Cost of Ownership/Maintenance / MPG.
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Jul 7, 2013 23:10
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What's the most fuel-efficient car under $15k these days (the cheaper the better)?
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Jul 8, 2013 06:51
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sullat posted:Anyone know much about the Mazda 5? Been hearing good things about it, but what's its reliability like? How about safety ratings and stuff? Might go test drive one later today, so we'll see how cramped grandma will be in the back, but would like to know how its long-term performance will be. It is basically a mazda 3 with more space.
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Jul 8, 2013 09:05
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What's the most fuel-efficient car under $15k these days (the cheaper the better)? You can get a quality used Prius for roughly that much, even slightly less.
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Jul 8, 2013 13:35
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ricouzuki posted:Mazda 3 I don't have answers to all your questions but I recently bought a CPO Mazda 3 so I can give you some perspective. My car is a 2013 with ~14k miles on it, cost me $14,250 and I average around 27mpg with a fair amount of highway driving during the week. My previous vehicle was a 2002 Focus, I can confirm that they are garbage. Many large repairs, it had 130k miles when I traded it in (I put 35k miles on it). It may be entirely possible that previous owners did not take car of it and I inherited their problems. My first vehicle was a 2001 Ranger, had 140,000 miles. So a first car with ~70,000 is not bad.
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Jul 8, 2013 13:46
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Diplomat posted:I don't have answers to all your questions but I recently bought a CPO Mazda 3 so I can give you some perspective. I started looking at the CPO models in my area on Cars.com but to my dissapointment, many of the 10-13K models all report accident in the Carfax. Really? How come so many CPO cars have been in an accident? What is the point of CPO then? My only worry is that there may be some underlying problem that is going to screw me over down the road. I just need a car that drives.
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Jul 8, 2013 18:01
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I worked as a mechanic for a year and the CPO inspection basically involved putting it up on a lift, checking the tires and brakes for abnormal wear and changing the oil and topping up fluids. If there was not something literally hanging off of it or the car would not start and drive, it passed the 150 point (I think) inspection. Don't think that your not getting a used car with possible problems when you buy Cpo. Having been to a dealer auction now a few times I also see where all these wrecked cars come from, as there are three lanes out of 15 that are full of "reconditioned" cars being sold to dealers. You have no idea what is wrong with them, they were either in an accident or had major mechanical repairs. I have looked them over hard and most look exactly like the other lanes of cars. After this experience I would almost say that your MORE likely to get a wrecked reconditioned car from a dealer than a private seller. You should always carfax and check the car over very hard for body work, which can be hidden very well on a newish car that has been detailed.
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Jul 8, 2013 18:38
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I also encountered many CPO cars that were previous rentals in the search for my car. I don't know how common that is compared to cars with accident reports, but around 20% of all CPO cars I researched were rentals. @ricouzuki: Sticker was $15,900 on my car.
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Jul 8, 2013 18:43
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CPO vehicles aren't special, they just have an extended warranty bolted on to them. Last year I was negotiating for a CPO car and the sales guy said "I can't sell that car to you for that price with the CPO, if you want to drop the CPO we can talk".
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Jul 8, 2013 19:01
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My current car is about to give up the ghost. It's been on its last legs for a few years now and I'm financially in a place where replacing it now makes more sense than throwing money at it only to have yet another thing break in 2 months. Proposed Budget: No more than $25,000, but ideally under $20,000. I have around $10,000 in the bank that I could use right now although it looks like from what I'm reading that you can't put more than 20% down on a car loan. Do car loans work like mortgages where you can pay them off without a penalty? My credit history is good and I suspect I would qualify for dealer promotions. My VantageScore from Experian is in the 790s if that helps. I think my current car could also get me some money as a trade-in or private sale. Its unlikely to sell for more than $3,500 (private party KBB estimate) due to its issues though. I also am a USAA member and could use their car buying service and discounts, although I've not done much research into how well that works. New or Used: New or Certified Pre-Owned. I don't have a mechanic I trust in the area so I'd prefer not to look at non-certified used cars. I'm leaning towards new because I plan to drive this car for a long time and would prefer to have something I know the history of and I suspect I may be able to get a good financing deal. Body Style: 4-door compact or hatchback How will you be using the car?: Primarily for driving around a major urban area (Washington, DC). Also driving out to the suburbs and to see my parents/occasional vacations requiring a longer drive. I walk to work currently so there's no commute but that could change if I move or I move to a different work location (which given my industry is very possible). Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: I really only would like a leather interior and a USB/iPod connection for my phone and iPod. Cloth interior isn't a deal-breaker though. Heated seats would be nice but not needed. What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, cost of maintenance and ease of driving in the city. My last three cars have been: a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville, a 1993 Oldsmobile 88 and another 93 Oldsmobile 88. I am used to driving rather huge GM sedans that have reliability issues and I'm sick of it. I drove both the Oldsmobiles until they croaked and my current car is in the process of dying. The amount of stress it gives me anytime I need to drive anywhere is awful. Additionally, driving such a large car in the city has made finding parking an absolute nightmare so I pretty much stopped driving places unless necessary a year or so ago. Now that I have friends living in the suburbs and a desire to actually leave town once in a while, I'd like to have the ability to do so. While I have no commute now, I'd like to get a car that's reliable enough to commute in in case my job situation changes in the future. As far as models go, I've taken a cursory look at all the compact or entry-level sedan offerings from Kia, Hyundai, Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Ford, Chevy and Mazda and I'm really not sure how to pick between them. Everything looks very similar and I'm not sure how to judge reliability with new cars. I'm open to suggestions on other brands as well. I've heard good things about the Honda Fit as one of my friends has one and when I was scouting it it looked alright. I was also impressed when I priced out the Hyundai Accent SE and I was able to get all the premium features and keep the car under $20,000. So I guess the first thing I need to figure out is what models/manufacturers I should be looking at. Any suggestions? edit: I forgot to mention the Dodge Dart looks visually appealing but I'm very, very wary of getting a Chrysler vehicle as I remember they tend to have maintenance issues. I also could not get their website to work correctly so the pricing is a bit of a mystery to me. edit2: I also found through work I have access to something called Corporate Perks Employee Pricing. I'm not sure if that's a better deal than using USAA or negotiating myself. I don't need a car right now and I'm more than willing to walk out and not buy right now if negotiations aren't going well. Out of curiosity's sake I put in a Dodge Dart Limited edition with some options which should MSRP for $23,235 and they said they could get around $20,800. This is the same price the USAA car buying service offered. axeil fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 01:00
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axeil posted:My current car is about to give up the ghost. It's been on its last legs for a few years now and I'm financially in a place where replacing it now makes more sense than throwing money at it only to have yet another thing break in 2 months. There really isn't any way to judge reliability on a brand new car, and a lot of the players on the field are brand new. If it's any consolation very few cars in the past few years are going to be "unreliable" in the way a 1990s GM is going to be, stay away from VAG and JLR and you can't really do that badly. If it bothers you that much, new Hyundais(and the VW Touareg) have pretty extensive warranties that will keep you covered if you remain the first owner. People say poo poo about how they're going to keep cars forever and ever but they rarely actually do that - life circumstances often get in the way, especially for young ones.
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Jul 9, 2013 02:17
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You can put as much drat money as you want down on a car loan. What's your parking situation? As a former NoVA resident, if you don't garage your vehicle, be prepared to not give a poo poo about its cosmetic condition. I would advise used. In DC, I would consider two things: 1. The most used Buick/Toyota Avalon/Hyundai Azera you can buy. 2. Honda Fit/Chevrolet Sonic/Ford Fiesta 3. poo poo the Prius C is in your price range, get one of them.
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Jul 9, 2013 02:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You can put as much drat money as you want down on a car loan. My building has garage parking for ~$125 a month. I'm currently parking on the street for free (well $20 for the county parking sticker) but it's a side street that doesn't get much traffic. Those all look like good suggestions, I'll start looking into them, thanks. Throatwarbler posted:There really isn't any way to judge reliability on a brand new car, and a lot of the players on the field are brand new. If it's any consolation very few cars in the past few years are going to be "unreliable" in the way a 1990s GM is going to be, stay away from VAG and JLR and you can't really do that badly. If it bothers you that much, new Hyundais(and the VW Touareg) have pretty extensive warranties that will keep you covered if you remain the first owner. People say poo poo about how they're going to keep cars forever and ever but they rarely actually do that - life circumstances often get in the way, especially for young ones. So even if a manufacturer had issues in the past I shouldn't be considering that when I look now? My rather poor experience with GM vehicles has made me shy away from Chevy and Buick. axeil fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 02:30
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axeil posted:My building has garage parking for ~$125 a month. I'm currently parking on the street but it's a side street that doesn't get much traffic. Yep. Because you owned 3 cars from a company that made millions of vehicle every year, most of which were reliable. Not that I'm a particularly enthusiastic apologist for GM but this really isn't a very good way to go about it. If reliability is the top priority, then what you can do is find a model you like, that has already been out for a while and has an extensive user community, and research the hell out of it for any systemic build quality or reliability problems. Once you've determined where you are you can then decide for yourself to see whether it's worth the hassle. One good place to start is http://www.truedelta.com/ I wouldn't even necessarily take truedelta's ratings and scores at face value, like everyone else it's an aggregate of an aggregate from a small number of datapoints, but at least it gives you a lot of details about possible system problems, fixes and also links to brand/model specific forums.
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Jul 9, 2013 02:40
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GM's poo poo is pretty much fine now. If you live in DC proper (not sure since you said County parking sticker, which makes me thing Arlington, Fairfax, MoCo or PGC), the Prius C is a really good choice. In fact I think the Prius C is a really good choice no matter where you live in the Metro Area. It's small enough to park easily, it is useful due to the hatchback, it gets great gas mileage and it's reliable, probably. Edit: Unless money is super tight, pay for that garage space.
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Jul 9, 2013 02:42
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:GM's poo poo is pretty much fine now. I'm in Arlington. I'll need to look into the Prius C more, but it looked interesting when I first saw that Toyota was making a smaller version of the Prius. I was planning on paying for the parking space, I've factored the extra money into my purchase pricing.
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Jul 9, 2013 03:26
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axeil posted:I'm in Arlington. I'll need to look into the Prius C more, but it looked interesting when I first saw that Toyota was making a smaller version of the Prius. It doesn't sound like you drive a lot, so a new Prius C may not really be a great decision financially. If you're just driving for one person, maybe the Chevy Spark or a Kia Rio would be more economical overall, but then again you do want leather...
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Jul 9, 2013 03:44
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Proposed budget: under 12k Body style: Car. 2 door or 4 door, hatchback or not doesn't matter. No trucks or SUVs. Using the car for long drives, as well as camping / ski hill trips Most important is reliability, followed by mileage. I live in canada. I just accepted a camp job which entails me working 14 days in a row, then getting 7 days off. During these 7 days, I plan on doing a lot of travelling. I've done some rough numbers, but I expect to be putting 35k+ per year on this car. I'll be loaning it to my sister during my work days, she'll be using it to drive to an from school. As for the budget, 12k is basically my max. I'd almost prefer to spend 4-5k on a beater car and holding on to the rest for a good set of snow tires / future repairs. I really don't care how the car looks, since I pretty much intend to be driving it in lovely winter conditions and up and down the mountain for skiing. The car MUST be good in the snow and must be reliable, since if I break down i'm pretty much buggered for my week off. Any ideas what you can suggest? I used to have a lexus es300 which I loved until it kicked the bucket at 450k, and because of this i'm partial to a camry or something similar but only because of my experience. I'm a tall guy, so a super compact car isn't ideal. 4x4 would be nice so maybe a subaru or something? I hear they go forever.
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Jul 9, 2013 05:33
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| # ? May 10, 2024 08:25 |
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Safety Meetings posted:Proposed budget: under 12k Dodge Avenger/Chrysler Sebring, Chevy Cobalt, Mitsubishi Lancer, you can get these for around $9k-$10k from around model year 2008 or so. Bank the rest for any repairs that pop up but they're all pretty solid on the reliability front. Since it sounds like you'll be piling on the mileage, maybe get a higher mileage unit to start with and save some money up front. Alternatively, a Crown Vic will be nice on the long trips and carry a lot of stuff, but the fuel economy won't be great and the RWD will take some getting use to for the winter.
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Jul 9, 2013 06:44
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