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Xovaan posted:the jet kit that existed in the engine was not happy, not at all. I took this to mean the engine ingested the jet kit. It would be very unhappy, indeed.
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Jun 27, 2013 21:33
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Haha, I suck at vocabulary, to say the least. Although I wouldn't doubt it at the rate this thing eats air and fuel. Test ride was a success. Unfortunately SoCal is so congested it's drat-near impossible to redline without alerting every cop in a mile radius so I had a helper to increase my frail nerd weight on the bike. Whereisnovember was very happy/startled with me hamfisting from 4k to 10k on our shakedown run. Totally new machine, but gotta tap and helicoil the valve cover bolt to finally 100% stop the valve cover leak. So $40 later and a tool that is only useful for ~m7 bolts that only exist on Suzuki valve covers and nowhere else in nature ever~ and I'll be certain to have fixed everything mechanically awkward on the bike! 
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Jun 28, 2013 03:51
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Dropped the bike in the parking lot halfway up a mountain yesterday when my foot slipped in oil, whoops! Then my friend dropped it today and finished the job of snapping off my shift knob. Had to ride 30 minutes home shifting with just the broken lever, it was terrifying.  Does anyone know if having an electrical tape X over your headlight is street legal in BC? Not asking for style, but because my headlight assembly is an utter POS and I'm legitimately afraid of it falling out at highway speeds. 1-Day EDIT: gently caress finding parts, do metalwork instead: http://imgur.com/a/Loq19 
Rime fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Jun 29, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 05:35
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Engine and primary oil change, adjusted primary chain, checked belt tensioner bearings.
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Jun 29, 2013 19:38
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Changed the engine oil and bled the brakes/clutch. My Grandpa had never done the brakes/clutch, they looked like bourbon... I ordered a K&N air filter and some gear oil too, I'll swap those next weekend. The bike is so low that I had to roll it up on some wood blocks just to get an oil pan under it.
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Jun 30, 2013 00:28
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Today I went over to Z3n's frickin awesome place and he helped me do a valve clearance check, sparkplug+airfilter change, and some smaller stuff like bleeding the brakes. It was great and I'm really glad I wasn't doing the clearance check on my own, cause I would have hosed up the engine something fierce. My bike now works and feels like brand new. Thanks again man! No pics because I was 20% motor oil by weight most of the day. Oh and like 3 of my valves had pretty much no clearance  that'd explain the issues
M42 fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jun 30, 2013 |
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Jun 30, 2013 01:35
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Yeah apparently my assumption that the valves couldn't be that bad was totally unwarrented. Ahh well, it's fixed now. Let's go for a ride sometime soon, before you make a break for places that suck.
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Jun 30, 2013 08:53
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Is that a common thing on EX250s? I remember a guy in school who had one that ran like poo poo and found out it was all valves too tight.
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Jun 30, 2013 14:47
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Washed it, removed the fly screen which I decided made it look too friendly, replaced some bolts with shiny new pro-bolt ones, then took it out to "dry" it (which turned into 2 hours of hooning around the London/Essex border). Genuinely the first nice weather on a Sunday i can remember this year, now the bike needs cleaning again cos it's covered in dead flies but IDGAF.
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Jun 30, 2013 15:34
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Is that a common thing on EX250s? I remember a guy in school who had one that ran like poo poo and found out it was all valves too tight. The first check on mine needed pretty much all of them adjusted, but it seemed to be ever other check after that where only a few were tight.
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Jun 30, 2013 16:15
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Changed my brake pads so I can ride it while I wait for the disc hardware to arrive on Wednesday.
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Jun 30, 2013 17:17
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Dropped the engine out of my buddy's CX500 to do the hellish stator swap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7oeWWdGOos Despite the hilarious "Step 1: Remove the engine." process of this swap, we enjoyed removing our first engine, it was pretty satisfying to wheel it away.
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Jun 30, 2013 23:14
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I've wanted to powdercoat my wheels white for a while... well, I plastidipped the things today to make sure I like it. Sweet. Baby. Jesus. So good looking...
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Jun 30, 2013 23:18
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How easy is plastidipping them? I'm going to do my SV rims eventually.
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Jul 1, 2013 00:11
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Easy as hell, you don't even need to mask anything. Just take the rotors off. The paint peels off the tires.
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Jul 1, 2013 00:22
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BlackMK4 posted:I've wanted to powdercoat my wheels white for a while... well, I plastidipped the things today to make sure I like it. Sweet. Baby. Jesus. So good looking... Pics or it didn't happen.
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Jul 1, 2013 00:48
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How well is it gonna survive the washing you'll have to do every day to keep them white though?
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Jul 1, 2013 04:00
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:How well is it gonna survive the washing you'll have to do every day to keep them white though? http://www.dipyourcar.com/forums/forum.php Everything you would ever need to know about dipping yo ride. I want to dip the BBS RIMZ of *~My Miata*~ some day when I get motivated to do it.
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Jul 1, 2013 05:16
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Worked on the wife's Harley which promptly spilled gas and oil everywhere. Just got it last year, it has officially marked it's spot. Must be getting too excited parked next to my Yamaha all the time. What started as replacing a clutch cable stalled here:  Per some advice on the forum I used a Dremel to cut a notch in the remaining 1/8" or so of stud. It proved insufficient to get a good bite as it was bit more like 1/16". So I was left with no other option but to pull the head and drill. This Softail has no valves or petcocks or any convenient way to drain the 5 gallon tank. So I syphoned what I could, but only got so far due to the short length of hose I had handy. Then proceeded to spill about 1/4 - 1/2 a gallon when I pulled and quickly plugged the crossover cable under the fuel tank (this crossover cable sits under the frame, and holds the tank down until you disconnect it.) The simplicity of including a valve onto said cross-over cable will require an aftermarket cable. I seriously hate this bike. I will be having one of these quick disconnect couplings standing by before this tank has to come off again. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/quick_disconnect_couplings/ With tank clear, and gas everywhere, and with the great help of my Dad, and neighborhood friendly Harley mechanic:  I got my first look into a famous Harley V-Twin. It's actually quite a bit less involved/easier to work on than the old 1983 Honda V-Twin I am familiar with. That... is about the only thing that's easier to work on. Progress:  That piston looks a bit... scorchy.  Success (obligatory crossbones bandana purchased for working on a Harley):  Next step, the machine shop. Drill baby, drill.  This press was quite cool. The little gauge there measures surfaces within 1/1000" tolerance to be sure it's nice and level.  Successfully drilled out, and re-tapped.  Tomorrow, reassembly.  I still haven't even started replacing the clutch cable that turned into all this.  Harley-Davidson
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Jul 1, 2013 05:55
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Well I at least feel better about the shitshow that is working on the 999 now, so thanks for that. 
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Jul 1, 2013 06:18
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Halo_4am posted:I still haven't even started replacing the clutch cable that turned into all this. This sucks... Are they all like this? I remember hearing from local Harley fanatics that their bikes were so much easier to work on because they didn't have "all that plastic" like mine does, but whenever they are doing "maintenance days" something always seems to go completely wrong and gets hosed up. I thought it was just them being incompetent.
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Jul 1, 2013 06:19
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I don't think snapping studs and bolts in the worst possible locations is a brand-specific thing
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Jul 1, 2013 06:29
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To be fair, it's this complicated because I shot myself in the foot by sheering the bolt. If I knew what I was in for I would have hit it with the penetrating oil a few times, let it sit over night, and then used the torch and all that from the outset when I still had a bolt to work with. I only left the penetrating oil go to work for a couple of hours, but in my defense the bolt sheered very easily. I did it coming from a poo poo angle and with a short open faced wrench. Not a ratchet and a breaker bar or anything heavy like that. I was very surprised when it sheered. The Harley mechanic friend of mine that really does look like Bobby Elvis pictured above is formally trained in the ways of Harley, and spent a couple of years in a shop before getting tired of lovely winter paychecks and moved on to other things. He swears up and down that there's give and take on both metrics and Harley's. I told him that so far the only thing that's been easier about this bike is that the spark plugs are right there and easy to get at. Everything else about it loving sucks to work on. 'At least it doesn't have 4 carbs or any of that other stuff' was his response. My V-Max has 4 carbs, and a retardedly complicated servo system for the vboost. At this point, I'd opt for getting that thing down to the frame over changing the oil on this Harley. My buddy who works at the machine shop pictured above, spends his time riding around a Moto Guzzi Norge, and spent his youth in the 70's building Ducati race bikes. He stopped by just as I was getting the head off, and he with all his air-cooled v-twin Italian electrical system experience was horrified by how hard everything about this Harley is.
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Jul 1, 2013 06:29
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 Taking the YZF600R apart. Right now I lack a socket big enough to remove the swing arm and some rear end in a top hat welded the drive sprocket on. I have a new swing arm, rear brake tension arm, front and rear sprockets, chain, stock rear fender, and front and rear tires in the mail. Some day this might actually be worth a gently caress. edit: 
500excf type r fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Jul 1, 2013 |
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Jul 1, 2013 14:35
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EX250 Type R posted:some rear end in a top hat welded the drive sprocket on. Evil. Are you going to have to replace the output shaft, or are you just going to grind off all the weld and pray the nut doesn't come off after it's reinstalled?
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Jul 1, 2013 15:21
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it's probably worth carefully grinding it back and seeing how much thread you have left. That said, if it was welded in the first place it may be that the thread is totally hosed because why the hell else would you weld a nut on when it has a perfectly good lock washer. In that case I think I'd be going with the comedy "weld the new sprocket on" option.
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Jul 1, 2013 15:29
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EX250 Type R posted:
Like I said on irc you'll probably have to reweld the new sprocket unless you want to split the engine to fit a new shaft. We had to do the same thing on a similar vintage yamaha before, although we didnt put that much weld on
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Jul 1, 2013 15:48
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Finally got the Honda out from my friends' garage on Saturday, so gave 'em both a Canada Day washing & waxing. Now to sell the ol' girl.
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Jul 1, 2013 21:20
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Chris Knight posted:Finally got the Honda out from my friends' garage on Saturday, so gave 'em both a Canada Day washing & waxing. Really brings out the colour
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Jul 1, 2013 21:40
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Chris Knight posted:Finally got the Honda out from my friends' garage on Saturday, so gave 'em both a Canada Day washing & waxing. How the crikey do you actually get a bike this clean? I've always wanted to get my bike looking this way but there are dozens of nooks and crannies etc that are impossible to reach.
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Jul 2, 2013 00:14
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If you want to be able to eat off your bike, a toothbrush and some pipe cleaners can really help get stuff shiny clean.
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Jul 2, 2013 00:15
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I helicoiled my valve cover finally and now my bike officially (hypothetically) won't leak anymore oil! And after rushing in here to type this, I realized my oil reservoir gasket (where the glass marker resides) was leaking so I tightened the bolts to proper torque spec and now I really officially have no oil leaks.  About to take my girlfriend out on her first group ride around the neighborhood! Gonna follow her and see how she does. 
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Jul 2, 2013 02:41
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Got the engine on the Harley mostly back together. One of my helpers did not stick to my tried and true 'ice cube tray bolt organizer (TM)' and one of the last bolts ran off. Naturally we only discovered this about 10 minutes after local hardware and Harley shops closed. Spent about an hour looking for it and said gently caress it. Buying a new one after work today. That sort of thing really takes the piss out of me. It's not the end of the world as the valved quick disconnect adapters I ordered from McMaster Carr for that retarded crossover fuel line won't be arriving until today anyway. Just aggravating when a big job gets a little bigger due to carelessness on one or more of our parts.
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Jul 2, 2013 14:08
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Been waffling back and forth over fabbing a metal seat for the bike. So far this candidate, 3d one so far, shows promise:    
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Jul 2, 2013 19:16
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Tamir Lenk posted:Been waffling back and forth over fabbing a metal seat for the bike. I kind of want to get a pic of you riding it like a bomb, and waving a cowboy hat. Halo_4am posted:Got the engine on the Harley mostly back together. One of my helpers did not stick to my tried and true 'ice cube tray bolt organizer (TM)' and one of the last bolts ran off. It occurred to one of my helpers today that the bolt was used to plug the fuel line and stop it from continuing to spill gas everywhere. I owe some apologies for ignoring my bolt organizing preferences.  Hopefully this can get wrapped up tonight. The act of working on this bike has made me completely retarded.
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Jul 2, 2013 20:36
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Abe Froman posted:Pics or it didn't happen.  Settled, need to powdercoat them. The plastidip captures pad dust too well. Also, it's worth masking the inner tire area - I didn't for the front wheel and it took a lot longer to clean up than masking.
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Jul 2, 2013 23:38
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That's pretty sweet looking.
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Jul 3, 2013 01:13
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Progress: And a new odd Harley... or maybe Haynes manual thing. In looking up the torque specs for the head bolts I found a peculiar spec: 16 ft lbs + 1/4 turn of ratchet. Why give me a precise torque setting, and then say add a 1/4 turn? Why not just give the actual torque setting for whatever it is with the 1/4 turn of the ratchet. One of those old school things I guess? We're stalled at 'engine all back together' because the intake manifold pictured above is put on with 2 hex bolts that are sitting between the cylinders. There is gently caress all clearance for anything reasonable. When getting it apart I could get a long 1/4" hex on it, but only when it was all the way down. Once it was broken free and moved up I had to do the rest with grippy gloves and fingers. I had hoped it would go back in the same way, but I don't eat enough spinach I guess because I simply can't finger tighten it to the point where it's low enough that I can get my normal 1/4" Allen clear. It's close, but not enough to completely sink the hex key, and I'm not trying to turn this thing without a good bite because the likely result will be a stripped hex bolt in the middle of the loving cylinders. These will be arriving today to get this the rest of the way. Either the ball end at the end of the long stem, or the short neck should do the trick. If not then I may hang myself with this shiny stainless braided clutch cable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4AII/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I know a lot of Duc's and BMW's love to put all kinds of poo poo between the cylinders. Anybody who has similar clearance issues and hex bolts should consider a set. Short neck hex keys were a previously unknown tool to me or I'd have had them a long time ago. There have actually been numerous times in the past where they would have been handy. I have tomorrow off for independence day, and so I have all night to be sure this Haaaaarrrghley is back on the road for a parade and carnival run tomorrow.
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Jul 3, 2013 17:29
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Halo_4am posted:I know a lot of Duc's and BMW's love to put all kinds of poo poo between the cylinders. Anybody who has similar clearance issues and hex bolts should consider a set. Short neck hex keys were a previously unknown tool to me or I'd have had them a long time ago. There have actually been numerous times in the past where they would have been handy. An angle grinder and a cutoff wheel have customized the sizes of hex keys for me in the past. You can also cut off a little bit from the long end and glue it into a box-end wrench of the correct size to get a SUPER stubby. If you've got a 1/4" wratcheting wrench that fits, then superglue will hold the pieces together well enough, but still be fairly easy to clean up once you're done.
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Jul 3, 2013 19:20
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| # ? May 15, 2024 17:30 |
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Halo_4am posted:We're stalled at 'engine all back together' because the intake manifold pictured above is put on with 2 hex bolts that are sitting between the cylinders. There is gently caress all clearance for anything reasonable. I ran into this hurdle on my vstar while replacing the clutch cable of all things. No thanks, Yamaha, I don't want to remove the muffler and header to get this silly cosmetic cover for the cable clutch actuator out, I'll just grind down a cheap allen tool to fit.
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Jul 3, 2013 19:25
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