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Wrar posted:I need to get a 94 Mark VIII's ECU reprogrammed to accept a manual transmission. Any suggestions? Carburetor conversion  What transmission inputs does it use? You might be able to futz around with resistors to get it to see whatever values it's looking for.
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Jul 2, 2013 19:29
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Tide posted:My 2012's AC smells like rank swamp rear end the first 20 seconds it blows air (on recirculate). Any idea on what to do? Run the air without recirculate for a week or two. If you're in a humid environment you may actually have to run some some alcohol through your HVAC (air-side) so clean out mold or other crap from the system, if it's more heavily accumulated.
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Jul 3, 2013 00:58
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Ford changed offsets between 94-04 (+30mm) and 05+ (+45mm). I'll bet that website goofed the specs with a copy&paste.
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Jul 3, 2013 01:56
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Scob posted:Thats fine but the rims he linked are the exact same rim. I have personally switched 17" cobra r rims back and forth between my cobra and an 08 gt, they fit fine. Perhaps the 04 bullitt rims you switched didnt fit, and if they were ford bullitts they might not have ive never messed with a bullitt rim from that year, but the brakes on the 05-10 gts arent larger then the new edge or s95 cobras/bullitts/mach 1s the rotor is. They don't require a spacer unless they're from an 04 below. 05+ require nothing on an 05+ car. Other rims may very well fit with out problem, as all I have dealt with swapping were the bullit rims. I usually leave stock ones on for resale, but that was a personal car and I wanted different colored rims than it came with. When it comes to bullits get 05+ for s197.
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Jul 3, 2013 02:14
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MarsellusWallace posted:Run the air without recirculate for a week or two. If you're in a humid environment you may actually have to run some some alcohol through your HVAC (air-side) so clean out mold or other crap from the system, if it's more heavily accumulated. Thanks, will give it a shot
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Jul 3, 2013 05:21
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Tide posted:My 2012's AC smells like rank swamp rear end the first 20 seconds it blows air (on recirculate). Any idea on what to do? Cabin air filter? Pretty easy swap and it's only about $15 for one at NAPA.
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Jul 4, 2013 21:14
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July 4th day sales are a go. Lethal Performance has a 10% off code "FIREWORKS". SCT Tuner, BMR adjustable pan hard bar w/ poly inserts, Lethal Performance off road H pipe, JPC gen 2 over the axle pipes and GT500 mufflers incoming.
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Jul 4, 2013 23:37
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So after driving a Durango and 94 GMC pickup truck for the last EVER. I have decided to start looking at some new cars. Especially the mustangs. I have always been a camaro guy, but I am apparently too tall for it. I sat in one and my head was almost to the roof. I love the challengers, but they are so expensive for what they are. Looking at a used 2009 Mustang https://usedcars.truecar.com/car/Ford-Mustang-2009/1ZVHT80N995137648 I know nothing about these cars. Looks to be a base model, and the price seems great to me. Especially with 45k miles. And it might have a working heater and A/C. I'm selling my 2 other cars for 4k total, so this mustang will only cost me about 10k or so. Hoping this post is okay, just looking for opinions of the year/model/car.
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Jul 5, 2013 22:47
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If possible, you really want to try and get a 2011+ model, since they hugely revamped the engines at that point. The 2011 V6 has as much power as the previous year's GT.
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Jul 5, 2013 22:58
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As in just added horsepower or making the transmission better or ? I really don't care about HP. I'm coming from two old trucks, anything to me will be better than that!
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Jul 5, 2013 23:09
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Both the V6 and V8 were placed with significantly better designs (20 years newer tech for the 8, old as the hills on the 6). More power, better throttle response, better fuel economy, everything. Ditto the transmissions, both engines can get a 6-speed auto or manual. Both are better than the outgoing 5-speed units, and aside from occasional shifter problems with the manual they're rock-solid. If they're within your budget, there is literally no reason whatsoever not to get a 2011+ over an older model.
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Jul 6, 2013 00:42
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Yeah, get a newer one if you can. Assuming you can stretch a new one, Ford has $3000 on the hood of any new Mustang, last I checked; that puts a base V6 under $20k. If that's not possible, you should be able to find a used 2011+ for under 16k. The gas savings alone is probably worth the $2k difference.
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Jul 6, 2013 02:51
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Okay I'm definitely looking into that. What does '3000 on the hood' mean exactly? I'm only seeing 1000 matching cash, and 0% financing for my area. We sat in a red 2012 v6 mustang with the two tone leather interior and I think we're going to try and persue that pretty aggressively. How are all these mustang owners putting 35k miles on their cars in 2 years?? Captain Apollo fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 05:05
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Captain Apollo posted:What does '3000 on the hood' mean exactly? It means upon buying the car, you can drive off with $3000 figuratively lying on the hood. In other words, every dealer should be offering a 3000 discount up front.
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Jul 6, 2013 05:37
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Captain Apollo posted:
Is that high mileage for you? Because I do that in about 9-10 months.
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Jul 6, 2013 06:36
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Sorry if this ius a repost https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OrKoQ6aCns 5.0l with ITBs, intake, exhaust, cams and springs. 620hp 8200rpm.
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Jul 6, 2013 07:07
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Captain Apollo posted:So after driving a Durango and 94 GMC pickup truck for the last EVER. I have decided to start looking at some new cars. Especially the mustangs. I have always been a camaro guy, but I am apparently too tall for it. I sat in one and my head was almost to the roof. I love the challengers, but they are so expensive for what they are. Wait, how are Challengers too expensive? The RTs are a little slower than Mustang 5.0s and even less slower than Camaros, but you don't "feel" it while driving because of the ~400 torque; you only care about the HP/weight difference when racing cars (which means it doesn't matter because you're modding anyway). And base RTs are often cheaper than Mustangs and Camaros new. You're paying for the extra room and more options on base to make up for the second difference, basically. The depreciation is less on Challengers, probably because there are less of them on the street, so you might be finding used ones for higher cost, maybe. That's the only thing I can see you really referring to. You don't really want a Mustang before 2011 unless that's the only one you can get. There is literally a 100HP jump between 2007-2010 and 2011, and you definitely feel the difference while driving. To make a comparison, an 11 V6 is a drivers race between that and a pre-11 GT (a GT is still slightly more fun to drive because of the torque/sound) and it's 100HP/torque less than the 11 GT. Even if you don't care now, you will care once you have it for a while. Try test driving all of the cars for a while before buying, and try different trims of each. Darko fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 14:04
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Here's a thing on sales. http://www.thedetroitbureau.com/2013/07/mustang-back-in-the-drivers-seat/#more-62545 Interestingly the Challenger is now running neck to neck with the Camaro, despite still being somewhat hampered by only having a 5 speed auto. The new 8 speeds apparently wont fit in the Challenger yet without some revisions and they probably won't be putting it in. They should really introduce a 6 speed manual for all the different trims/powertrains.
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Jul 6, 2013 15:37
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Throatwarbler posted:Here's a thing on sales. I don't think someone buying a v6 challenger really cares about the extra cog. The R/T is only 4 grand more(base model to optioned up even) and comes with the 6 speed stick standard. Compare that to an $8,700 gap on the mustang and a $9,300 gap on the camaro. Edit: funny story, in canada, the gap v6-v8 challenger is $10,800, and the 5 speed auto is standard in the R/T with the 6 speed stick being a $2000 option. gently caress us right, it's not like the loving car is built here. Powershift fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 16:07
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Powershift posted:I don't think someone buying a v6 challenger really cares about the extra cog. The R/T is only 4 grand more(base model to optioned up even) and comes with the 6 speed stick standard. Compare that to an $8,700 gap on the mustang and a $9,300 gap on the camaro. That's just terrible, and, amusingly enough, is the source of a few arguments on message boards (with Canadians arguing with Americans about the RT value because neither knows about the different pricing in Canada/US).
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Jul 6, 2013 16:24
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Captain Apollo posted:So after driving a Durango and 94 GMC pickup truck for the last EVER. I have decided to start looking at some new cars. Especially the mustangs. I have always been a camaro guy, but I am apparently too tall for it. I sat in one and my head was almost to the roof. I love the challengers, but they are so expensive for what they are. I wouldn't buy it. It's being headlined as a GT but it's only a 6 cylinder. I wouldn't trust that seller if I asked them the time.
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Jul 6, 2013 16:54
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I'd like to take a moment to say thank you to everyone who is helping me on this. We looked around at a lot of dealerships last night and this car stuck out to us http://www.lubbockbennyboyd.com/mobile/2012-Ford-Mustang-V6-Lubbock-TX/vd/15174014 I called the dealer today and he said that he would sell it for 20,000+ TTL It seems to me that I could buy this for 20k or I could go buy a new 2014 for 23k with the same options with 0% financing. Did I mention that I've never done this before?
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Jul 6, 2013 17:44
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The 0% financing will likely be worth around 3 grand, plus you get a new car with a new warranty.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:34
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If you're going to go used, you should probably look for a private seller on the V6. You can find a better trim (Performance package w/ 18" wheels and better tires, the upgraded suspension, etc.) for a cheaper price because of the high depreciation on Mustangs. Otherwise, just go new. What exactly are you looking for in your car, too? That will help.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:42
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Captain Apollo posted:Did I mention that I've never done this before? When buying used, I've always looked up the trade in value on the two major sites (kbb, nada) and found an average. That's my starting point in bargaining with the dealer. From there, I won't go past about 5-8 percent not including tax and title fees. wallaka posted:The 0% financing will likely be worth around 3 grand, plus you get a new car with a new warranty. There's some significant value in going this route. Play with a loan calculator to make a final decision on your expected interest rates when going new vs used. FWIW, it looks like dealers in my area (Mobile, Alabama) are offering some pretty decent prices where I am with comparably equipped V6's at around 21,000, V6 premiums in the 25K range and GT premiums (without leather, however) for right at 28,000 (  ). Play your cards right, and you could reasonably knock off an additional 5-10 percent.fake edit: Jebus....28,000 for a 2014 GT 6sp. That's already an insane price for the performance of the vehicle. real edit: also, see if you can find a way to get x plan purchasing. One used to be able to obtain it by being a share holder in Ford; whether 1 share or 1 million. Tide fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 19:48
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Darko posted:If you're going to go used, you should probably look for a private seller on the V6. You can find a better trim (Performance package w/ 18" wheels and better tires, the upgraded suspension, etc.) for a cheaper price because of the high depreciation on Mustangs. Otherwise, just go new. A nice, fun, enjoyable, reliable DD that fits my 6'1 frame and my wife. I do a 9 mile commute one way from my house to work. I have no plans to mod or alter the car after I get it. I have saved for a long time for a nice car, and when we sat in it we just felt like it clicked. Nothing else has come close, SUVs, trucks, Etc....
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Jul 6, 2013 21:34
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Captain Apollo posted:I'd like to take a moment to say thank you to everyone who is helping me on this. I got a 2014 V6 for 23k out the door; back on President's Day, so if you are going to go used, press harder.
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Jul 6, 2013 22:03
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V6 premium? Just trying to get an idea on prices and packages
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Jul 6, 2013 23:37
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Do yourself a favor and please just buy through costcoauto.com. They sell at invoice through your local fleet dealer and any fleet dealer worth their salt is going to give you the manufacturer incentives (because on their end it means nothing). So you should get $3000 off invoice of whatever car you want. Based on the questions youre asking the normal dealers will easily take advantage of you.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:05
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Captain Apollo posted:V6 premium? Just trying to get an idea on prices and packages In Mustang parlance 'Premium' is the upmarket trim level with leather and other goodies. All premiums have leather.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:22
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His post didn't say what type of v6... Hence my question.
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Jul 7, 2013 00:26
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Captain Apollo posted:His post didn't say what type of v6... Hence my question. Premium with Tech package, yeah. I had to fight for it, though; took 4 hours.
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Jul 7, 2013 03:17
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coolskillrex remix posted:Do yourself a favor and please just buy through costcoauto.com. They sell at invoice through your local fleet dealer and any fleet dealer worth their salt is going to give you the manufacturer incentives (because on their end it means nothing). So you should get $3000 off invoice of whatever car you want. Too bad this didn't work quote:Currently, we have not located a dealership in your area for the manufacturer you selected.
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Jul 7, 2013 05:32
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drat, well maybe try truecar.com for a "heres what i want to buy a car for, please give me the car for this price", although ive never used it. I just know that costco gets rid of dealing with lovely car salesmen who have a vested interest in screwing you over. Fleet dealers have "zero haggle pricing", they only sell for some X price above invoice, costco just basically has an agreement to take that X price down to the invoice and nothing more. A fleet dealer will never sell you a new car for more than what it says on their sticker, it does them no good, they just need to sell a certain amount of cars per month and thats all that matters to them. What search area did you look for cars in? Im surprised you dont have a fleet dealer within like.. 200 miles of you. coolskillrex remix fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 06:51
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I'm in Lubbock Texas, so yeah I don't even has a Costco within 400 miles. I think I'm going to buy/look for a 2014 v6 premium with the 202a package and some options. I've got a family friend who uses a specific dealership here locally. I will never make a deal without taking a day to think about it. With the threads permission I may post the next car I have my sights on and ask for advice on price/options etc. Truecar and SA knowledge will definitely be good to have in my corner 
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Jul 7, 2013 07:17
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I wanted to chirp in here too and just mention that everything is fully resolved at this point with the car and Ford did right by me for the inconvenience the failure caused. It was a huge mess and I know when I first started posting about it I was really tweaking out about it for a while but all is right in the universe once more. Sometimes things just happen. Thanks for the blanket and cocoa when I was going through all that, thread participants. I've been back on the road for a couple of weeks and she feels great.
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Jul 7, 2013 09:43
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roger wilco posted:I wanted to chirp in here too and just mention that everything is fully resolved at this point with the car and Ford did right by me for the inconvenience the failure caused.
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Jul 7, 2013 14:36
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Help! Yesterday my 2012 V6 started acting "wonky". Engine was loud on acceleration, pretty big loss of power, and when under load (ie going up hills), I'd get a flashing CEL. Took it to the Ford Dealership this morning. They won't touch it because of "modifications, your CAI and your tune", but they were "kind" enough to not "report it to Ford to void my warranty" and "only" charged me 100$ to pull the freaking codes. (Which I can do myself with my SCT, grumblegrumble). Needless to say, I won't be going there for work again. The codes they pulled (and I verified with my tuner) are as follows: P0300- Random misfire P0304- Cyl #4 misfire P0305- Cyl #5 misfire I've flashed back to stock right now, and my neg battery cable is unhooked so I can reset the ECU, I'm thinking possibly a bad coilpack somewhere on that right bank? What's the procedure to check coilpacks at home with a multimeter? I definitely just want to replace the bad one(s) and not all 6 if I can get away with it. I'm also going to visually inspect the spark plugs. Anyone else have this issue? Anything anyone else can recommend past my current plan of ECU reset->check plugs -> check coilpacks?
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Jul 8, 2013 17:51
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Is it possible something is loose with the CAI? a large vacuum leak post-MAF would cause similar issues.
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Jul 8, 2013 18:51
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Captain Apollo posted:How are all these mustang owners putting 35k miles on their cars in 2 years??
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Jul 8, 2013 20:24
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