|
kid sinister posted:What are you trying to remove that the screws are that stuck? I would say gently caress it and drill out the screw instead. Putting screws in actually. Nothing strange, just wood from our playset. I believe the issue is that she wasn't applying any pressure at all so they just spun around like crazy and broke, but who knows. I even pre-drilled  . She isn't allowed to use my impact driver anymore
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 20:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
My best advice is to not use phillips head screws. I use torx heads pretty much exclusively.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 20:32
|
|
|
ntd posted:I don't know much about Porter Cable, but have seen them recommended a few places, they have a Lithium ion version at Lowes for 169: http://www.lowes.com/pd_374767-34252-PCCK410L2_0__?productId=3652610&Ntt=porter+cable&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dporter%2Bcable&facetInfo= they have another Lithium Ion set for 179 as well I bought a set of PC stuff a few years ago, on sale for ~$100 and it is okay. Fine for around the house but nowhere near the quality of my Makita.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
mds2 posted:My best advice is to not use phillips head screws. I use torx heads pretty much exclusively. Agreed on this. I couldn't count the number of phillips screws that have stripped out over the years. I haven't used torx nearly as frequently, but the only time they stripped, I just forced a slightly bigger bit into it and got it free, rather than having to drill it out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 21:05
|
|
|
Be like us Canadians and use Robertsons  Seriously, Torx are probably better though I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 21:17
|
|
|
The reason Philips screws strip is because they're actually designed to. Back when the head was invented, there weren't a lot of good ways to control the amount of torque you were putting into something at the tool, so the heads were made to cam-out before you overtorqued the fastener and ruined the workpiece or whatever. You were supposed to stop when it cammed out and not go any further, and the little dings and chips in the head from a single instance of slipping were minor enough that the fastener still worked. As we all know if you keep on torquing it down it will continue to slip and ruin the head, but technically that's improper use. Now we have torque clutches and torque wrenches that do a much better job of limiting torque accurately at the tool, so there's no reason to use a fastener like that. Robertson is almost the ideal system, but the first time Robertson licensed out his patent internationally (to the UK) the licensors pulled a fast one on him and did some bureaucratic bullshit that deprived him of royalties, so after that he kept his patent but quit licensing it anywhere but in his native Canada. The socket hex drive you see on everything now is the next-best thing to Robertson, and Torx is a modification for easier machine assembly. JIS screws are a Philips-like cross that isn't designed to cam out, and you'll find that a JIS screw and JIS driver tend to work far better than a Philips pair.  
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 2, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 22:37
|
|
|
More drillchat: I went to Home Depot to finger the drills that have all been mentioned (except the Porter Cable). They all seemed pretty similar, except for the promotions they offered. Milwaukee is offering a free battery when you buy the kit (so 3 total) and Rigid has a free radio ( ). The sales guy seemed pretty down on Rigid's lifetime warranty, saying it was prorated. I can't find anything online saying that is true, though.Thanks for the opinions. Now to choose one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 23:10
|
|
|
johnny sack posted:The thread talks about having your house wired with a transfer switch so you can just plug the generator into the switch to power your house? I am 99% certain my city would require a permit/licensed electrician to do this, so I wouldn't do it myself either way. I don't have archives, and I'm not sure I want to pay the for the upgrade to it...Is there a lot of good information in this thread? 6. How do I power my whole house? Code requires whole-house generators be connected via a transfer switch that renders it impossible to accidentally back-feed the utility grid. In other words: suicide plugs trying to backfeed receptacles are illegal. Mistakenly backfeeding the grid would almost instantly stall your generator, but for a brief moment, will also be back-feeding that transformer feeding your house, which steps your 120V power to 7,000V or more, potentially electrocuting line workers. DO NOT DO IT! If you’re going to do a whole house generator, do it properly. 6.1. Whole-house manual transfer switch This switch is installed between your meter and your main panel, and provides a jack to connect up your portable generator. It’s not a DIY job, you’ll need to have it professionally installed, and be prepared to pay $1000 or more. Since your whole utility power flows through it, it has to be rated at least as much as your main breaker. But since your generator probably can’t power everything in your house, you need to load shed. Before you start your generator on, open up the breakers for everything you know your generator can’t power (water heater, electric furnace, heat pump, etc.) 6.2. Electrical panel generator breaker interlock Most people don’t even know this option exists, but it’s by-far the easiest to retrofit. Instead of installing a transfer switch, you instead install a bent-up piece of sheet metal on your breaker panel that prevents you from closing the main breaker and generator breaker at the same time. Install your generator breaker right next to the main breaker (move whatever was there elsewhere in the panel) and install your interlock. BAM, cheap and easy. A 30A double-pole breaker, 30A generator plug, #10 cable and misc boxes and fittings will run you somewhere under/around $100 at your big box, and support up to a 7200W generator. You can buy a pre-made 240V generator cable for $100. Protip: you can pay $150 for one of these online, or bend your own out of sheet metal for practically free. WARNING: portable generators have an internal neutral-ground bond because they’re designed to be used with cord & plug; transfer switches account for this, but the interlock doesn’t. If you do not temporarily remove this neutral-ground bond while hooked up to your house, neutral current will flow through the ground wire. 6.3. Generator-powered emergency panel Like the whole house panel, except that it’s powered from your main panel and feeds a secondary panel with all your emergency circuits. If you’re getting a built-in generator with automatic transfer switch, this is how you’d do it and still stay code compliant. 7. Living with a whole-house generator Even with a generator, you still have to make some sacrifices. Unless you have a very large generator, you may not be able to power your air conditioning, hot water heater, clothes dryer, etc. You have to think about things that use power before you use them. Houses in the US typically run at 115/230V, which is a 230V single-phase circuit center-tapped to get two 115V circuits. You can think of these as +115V and -115V (which between them give 230V). Normally you don’t need to worry about what receptacle in your house comes from which side of the panel, but it becomes very important when you’re on generator. A 3000W generator has two 15A circuits, and you need to be careful to balance loads properly to avoid tripping them. Even if all you have plugged in is an 800W refrigerator and a 1500W coffee pot, which your generator can easily provide, you could still trip a breaker because they’re drawing 20A between them. If you find you’re tripping breakers, plug your stuff into a different circuit. Modern kitchens are easy as two 20A circuits are code required, and they’re usually on different circuits. One way to figure out what circuits are what is to look in your panel: every other row is the opposite feed. You’ll need to be very careful about turning things off before turning over things on- your first warning my be the lights dimming; your second will be the lights going out. Always carry a flashlight so you can see to restart the generator. You’ll also notice things you never noticed before, such as how your oven’s dials don’t control intensity, just a thermostat that alternates between ON and OFF, which has the disconcerting effect of causing your lights to constantly dim/brighten. So long as it's not getting extremely bright or extremely dim, it's normal and OK and not a cause to worry. But still doesn't hurt to check voltages to make sure they're still close enough to 115V to not hurt things. If it's dipping too low, turn something off. If voltages are too high, turn more things on; you may find you have to turn on every light in your house to keep voltages below 125V. 8. How can I safely put my generator inside, where assholes won’t steal it? You can’t. (See #1 above). Carbon monoxide is a colorless and odorless gas that you won’t even know is killing you until you pass out. Instead, put it outside, get a nice big chain with a heavy padlock, and chain it to something substantial. Remember: you don’t have to make it impossible to steal, just hard enough that the thief passes you by and steals from some other poor motherfucker. Even a simple step like taking off the wheels will help deter theft. Turn it off and bring it inside at night.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2013 23:26
|
|
|
Johnny Aztec posted:Alright, Alright, you sold me on Lithium Ion. Any recommendations for Specific brands, or ones to avoid? i'd go for porter cable 12V lithium for cost or spring for Maikita/Dewalt/Milwaukee/Bosch. Personally I go Milwaukee because they have the widest range of tools overall, especially in the 12V line (and battery compatibility matters), but you can't go wrong with any of those brands. I also like ryobi for value and they have some great yard tools too in their 18V line.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2013 02:41
|
|
|
Economic Sinkhole posted:More drillchat: I went to Home Depot to finger the drills that have all been mentioned (except the Porter Cable). They all seemed pretty similar, except for the promotions they offered. Milwaukee is offering a free battery when you buy the kit (so 3 total) and Rigid has a free radio ( Lifetime warranties are almost always "limited warranties", which are usually misleading at best. Generally speaking, a limited warranty won't cover anything that you can't prove is a manufacturing defect. Anything that will have wear and tear on it (i.e. any moving parts, if you've used the tool at all) won't be covered because there's no way to prove the damage didn't come from abuse. The exception to this is Craftsman with their hand tools. If you walk into Sears with a busted wrench, they will hand you another one with zero hassle at all. As far as recommendations go, the old adage of "you get what you pay for" is absolutely the case here. The Rigid/Ryobi/Black & Decker/Porter-Cable tools are cheaper than the Milwaukee/Makita/DeWalt/Bosch for a reason. If you're not planning to use them very often, for one-off projects or around the house and so on, go with whichever you find a good deal on. If you want something you're going to use for several projects that will last you for years if you treat it right, fork over the extra money and get the higher end tools. Every brand has their specialties, but the difference in quality among the major brands is very, very narrow. I would compare catalogs. See which line has other tools you're interested in purchasing down the line, because a lot of brands sell cordless tools bare with no batteries and chargers for a fraction of the cost that the tools cost as a kit.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2013 04:05
|
|
|
Mr. Yuk posted:If you walk into Sears with a busted wrench, they will hand you another one with zero hassle at all. Check out the guy who hasn't been to Sears in 10 years. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2013 04:47
|
|
|
i like these but i am a huge dork so dont take my word for it http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CLPK27-120-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B0046ZRYPE/
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
Mr. Yuk posted:Every brand has their specialties, but the difference in quality among the major brands is very, very narrow. I would compare catalogs. See which line has other tools you're interested in purchasing down the line, because a lot of brands sell cordless tools bare with no batteries and chargers for a fraction of the cost that the tools cost as a kit. Yeah this needs to be reiterated. An 18V lithium battery/charger combo will cost you $60 to $100 no matter how you get it. Once you have them you can save a ton of money shopping tool only. This is where sticking with a major brand is helpful because there will either be tool only stock in stores, or there will be a ready supply on eBay from people selling portions of their larger kits.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2013 14:00
|
|
|
All right well, you people convinced me to spend much more than I was planning. I ordered this Bosch 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Drill & Impact Driver kit. $20 cheaper than at Home Depot and it comes with hard boxes instead of dumb canvas bags.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2013 19:58
|
|
|
Economic Sinkhole posted:All right well, you people convinced me to spend much more than I was planning. I ordered this Bosch 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Drill & Impact Driver kit. $20 cheaper than at Home Depot and it comes with hard boxes instead of dumb canvas bags. Nice. I see a lot of people knock bags but I actually like them. You can stuff a lot of extra stuff in a bag but a box can only be used for what it's designed for.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2013 23:47
|
|
|
In these "one battery for a bunch of tools" families, are there any standout brands for an impact wrench? I want something portable for junkyards and driveway work. Also, can someone give a good explanation of the difference between an impact driver and an impact wrench, and why you can or can't use one for the other?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2013 04:10
|
|
|
An impact wrench has a square drive on it so you can put sockets on. An impact driver usually has a 1/4" hex drive so you can put power screwdriver bits on it. Obviously you can adapt from one to the other, but I wouldn't go above using 3/8" drive sockets with a hex adapter, and if you're planning to drive screws with an eight-pound heavy-duty impact wrench lol. Mechanically, they both work in an identical manner, but wrenches are usually rated for higher torque. Basically, use an impact driver if you're doing light duty assembly/disassembly and taking off rusted bolts up to about 8mm in diameter; for anything larger, you want a true impact wrench. I have Makita stuff and it's all great. For junkyard work a battery-powered wrench is the way to go, but note that if you have a compressor and expect to be doing a lot of heavy work (eg trucks), even a really cheap air tool will knock the socks off an expensive battery wrench. Like you can get the same amount of torque in a $250 battery or $40 air tool. Something to consider. I use my Makita driver for most jobs, spinning bolts on and off before torquing them down by hand for instance, and for anything really stuck I have a cheap Husky air wrench that I picked up for $22 on sale for one project, which has like 320 lb-ft of torque and has really surprised me with its durability (it's good). Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jul 6, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2013 04:27
|
|
|
asdf32 posted:Nice. Yeah I prefer bags too, boxes end up in a corner somewhere wishing they were somewhere else.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2013 05:24
|
|
|
GD_American posted:Can't go wrong with DeWalt 18 volt. If you're looking to save a few bucks, there's a huge reconditioned market for them. I talked with a woman from DeWalt, and the 20V slide style battery is replacing the 18V "tower style," although they are still supporting it because of how big of a share of the market it holds. The weight and shape/compatibility are the only real differences currently. You should still be able to get new 18V stuff for a long while.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2013 05:38
|
|
|
I love my milwaukee 1/2" gear reduction drill. This one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100026...la#.UdehQG3JLG4 I had the temerity to attempt to wallow out a hole I'd already drilled in a piece of heavy steel channel stock (without the second handgrip because I am occasionally stupid) and it grabbed, tried to break my wrist, and did this:  That is a 1/2" drill bit. It broke it in a fraction of a second before I could even react. And I've been beating the poo poo out of this drill for 3 years already, it doesn't give a gently caress. If you need a good high power corded drill, this is the only one that I recommend these days.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2013 05:49
|
|
|
Trip report: Bosch PS21-2A. My venerable old cordless drill still works but is nearing end-of-life; I love the drill and even rebuilt one the battery packs about 6 years ago, but the rebuilt pack is dying, too, and gives up after just a couple minutes of use now. We have a heavy-duty corded impact drill for the big stuff, so I don't really need a super-heavy cordless, but I do want a cordless for convenience around the house. Rather than pay another $50 to rebuild the battery pack again, I asked for a new drill for christmas. And my wife surprised me with this one, which has turned out to be rather awesome despite (and because of) its small size. http://www.boschtools.com/products/tools/pages/boschproductdetail.aspx?pid=ps21-2a  I'm not going to try spinning 4" holesaws with it, but it has enough torque to wrest the handle from my hand, and drives 3" decking screws like a champ. The battery life is surprisingly good- it comes with with two li-ion batteries and a 30-minute charger, and even putting up fencing with constant use, I've yet to ever drain one battery before the other is recharged. It's variable speed- this is something a lot of the cheaper ones were lacking, but I'll never get a drill without it. Two gear settings for screwing and drilling, which seems to be rather standard now. I'm completely sold on this form factor now. Bosche makes an impact driver version of this for not a whole lot more cash, but it's only rated to like 77ft-lbs- might be good for driving lag screws and such, but too weak to replace a real impact wrench for car work. I've used it on my car several times, too; wasn't able to correlate the clutch to any specific in-lb rating, unfortunately (likely varies with battery charge anyhow), but I did trial/error it on one project so that I could drive the 30-million bolts holding on my transmission pan to a little-less-than-spec, which were then easy to follow up with an actual torque wrench. The little built-in flashlight that comes on when you put a little pressure on the trigger is really nice for dark corners, too. grover fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jul 8, 2013 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2013 13:47
|
|
|
Ive been eying the subcompact 12v as well. Does anyone besides Milwaukee do a brushless 12v?
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2013 01:01
|
|
|
dwoloz posted:Ive been eying the subcompact 12v as well. Does anyone besides Milwaukee do a brushless 12v? Festool for $535....otherwise not that I know of. Milwaukee has sort of been leading the way with that. If I were doing thigns over I'd have 12V fuel instead of an 18V drill. It has a 1/2" chuck and 350 in lb of torque (compared to 450 for it's 18V counterpart). That's pretty close and with reduced size and weight that's a good tradeoff. I just happened to notice tonight that Milwaukee is releasing another slew of Fuel tools including circular saw, grinders, and wrenches. Along with an 18V multi tool (and a few new heated jackets...) Pretty good stuff. Nice write up. I think an important take away is that new lithium 12V tools in particular, and lithium in general are excellent. I see a lot of people still sort of reluctant to dive entirely into cordless based on experience with the last gen of NiCad and NiMh tools. For anyone hesitating or questioning the utility or power of a 12V lithium you should just pull the trigger.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2013 03:12
|
|
|
Anyone care to throw in their two cents on the Bosch Axial Glide 10/12" Miter Saws? I'm looking at a Dewalt sliding, and this. I have read reviews on both, and they have not been helpful due to levels of fanboyism equal to "Xbox vs Playstation". Anyone have any firsthand experience with this unit?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2013 03:38
|
|
|
Blistex posted:Anyone care to throw in their two cents on the Bosch Axial Glide 10/12" Miter Saws? I'm looking at a Dewalt sliding, and this. I have read reviews on both, and they have not been helpful due to levels of fanboyism equal to "Xbox vs Playstation". Anyone have any firsthand experience with this unit? Does the Axial Glide mechanism function any differently than the rail slide on a standard sliding miter saw? If not, from comparing brands on Home Depot's website, the Bosch seems ridiculously overpriced. I guess the 14" vertical capacity could be nice for certain applications, but will you use that often enough to justify it being nearly $300 more than everyone else's saws?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2013 04:19
|
|
|
i need a cordless framing nailer. the choices I know about are: this hitachi: http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-NR90GR2-3-5-Inch-Collated-Cordless/dp/B004Q00FOQ/ or this paslode: http://www.amazon.com/Paslode-902600-CF325Li-Lithium-Cordless/dp/B006W4FB8O/ anyone have an opinion one way or another?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2013 06:15
|
|
|
Mr. Yuk posted:Does the Axial Glide mechanism function any differently than the rail slide on a standard sliding miter saw? If not, from comparing brands on Home Depot's website, the Bosch seems ridiculously overpriced. I guess the 14" vertical capacity could be nice for certain applications, but will you use that often enough to justify it being nearly $300 more than everyone else's saws? When I was at HD, they were priced the same. I've been told that the Axial Glide system is more durable (over the long run) and has less side-play than the rail system. Plus it eliminates the 10-12" of space required behind the saw for the rails. Since they were the same price, I was just wondering if anyone has used the Bosch and if it was any better/worse than the Dewalt.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2013 11:38
|
|
|
I'd have to look back through my huge stack of magazines, but IIRC one woodworking mag had the Bosch saw second only to the Festool Kapex. The bosch saw glides like butter.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2013 15:10
|
|
|
I bought the bosch earlier in the year, it's a pretty sweet saw. Will dig out the camera tomorrow and get some action video if you like?
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2013 16:22
|
|
|
MrPete posted:I bought the bosch earlier in the year, it's a pretty sweet saw. Will dig out the camera tomorrow and get some action video if you like? No, that's fine. How are the 45 degree cuts? Actually 45? Any side-side play? Anything loosening up? Causing sloppy cuts or wrong angles? These are pretty much the only things I am worried about. I'm pretty tired of using chop saws that have horrible tolerances and never make the same angle twice.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2013 02:35
|
|
|
Anybody have the festool track saw? I'm looking at adding one to my arsenal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2013 04:01
|
|
|
ShadowStalker posted:Anybody have the festool track saw? I'm looking at adding one to my arsenal. I know a guy who does. IT's totally badass. He made several sets of shelves, cabinets, and tables with it before getting a table saw.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2013 16:20
|
|
|
Ended up buying the M12 Fuel impact driver. Basically it has the same power and runtime as my old V18 I upgraded from but at half the weight and size. The two speed drive is a nice addition - limits torque to a tiny 100 in lbs for delicate work. My only complaint is that it doesn't take 1" bits, needs a holder, but I can live with it. Going to buy the hammer drill now also
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2013 18:40
|
|
|
Blistex posted:No, that's fine. My saw out of the box is a fraction out of square. Maybe .1 of a degree or so. It is very consistent however, it doesn't change each cut. The manual indicates it should be easy to adjust it all to be square I just haven't done it yet. Have only used it for rough work as yet and the accuracy isn't paramount. Beats the poo poo out of my $100 gmc mitre saw. The laser line indicator wasn't calibrated to the blade that comes with the saw. Again not a big deal for me, I'll be replacing the blade soon anyhow and will adjust then. Everything locks in quite well, the stops for angles click in very solidly and I cannot detect any play. Adjusting everything from the front is quite nice as well, makes it easy. The glide action is silky smooth and feels very robust. I don't know if it's because the motor is a belt drive but when you pull the trigger the saw does have a tendency to jerk upwards a bit. Not a huge deal once you get used to it but has caught me off guard a couple times. Not sure I would want to carry it in and out of a truck every day to a jobsite, thing is loving heavy. The gravity rise stand or something like fastcaps best fence would make it a lot easier in that regard. Dust bag is catching a fair amount but I still have dust all over the shed. Need to upgrade to active collection and see how that goes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2013 13:38
|
|
|
dwoloz posted:Ended up buying the M12 Fuel impact driver. Basically it has the same power and runtime as my old V18 I upgraded from but at half the weight and size. The two speed drive is a nice addition - limits torque to a tiny 100 in lbs for delicate work. My only complaint is that it doesn't take 1" bits, needs a holder, but I can live with it. Going to buy the hammer drill now also Nice. I thought that looke like a good feature. The high torque limits where I've used it. For example I busted some pocket holes trying to use the impact. The low torque setting looks nice. Let us know how the hammer drill is. I might consider upgrading (?) from my M18 to M12 fuel for the drill.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2013 18:13
|
|
|
MrPete posted:I don't know if it's because the motor is a belt drive but when you pull the trigger the saw does have a tendency to jerk upwards a bit. Not a huge deal once you get used to it but has caught me off guard a couple times. So it's not a soft-start motor?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2013 03:42
|
|
|
Any thoughts on this Hitachi 18v combo kit? Some cockbag got into my garage a couple weeks ago and stole all of my power tools except for my old Dewalt 14.4v drill (purchased back in 2000), which was hiding in the house. Of course, in the process of replacing deadbolts, the loving drill broke, so I'm looking to replace everything. Most of my power tools were Hitachi (corded, not cordless), and I was very happy with their performance. The only thing missing from this kit that I would like is a sabre saw, but I didn't use it that often anyways. They include it in the larger kit, but I can't really justify spending another $300 to get the sabre saw and a bunch of drills/drivers/whatever the hell they are that I'll probably never use. This kit seems to have good reviews for the most part, just wondering if anyone here had any hands-on experience with cordless Hitachi stuff. And after this, I also get to replace the Porter Cable oscillating multitool and the Porter Cable 2 1/4 HP router kit that they took as well. Both used only once. Fuckers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2013 16:04
|
|
|
Boogeyman posted:Any thoughts on this Hitachi 18v combo kit? I don't know hitachi that well but the selection looks solid. It looks like Milwaukee, Makita and others have basically this exact same combo at a similar $600 price. Look back over some past cordless discussion here which applies generally. The Makita combo throws in a radio which isn't bad.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2013 18:09
|
|
|
Boogeyman posted:Any thoughts on this Hitachi 18v combo kit? My opinion is that angle grinder, sawzall and circ saw should be corded. Sure they're convenient cordless but they will EAT through batteries and quit right when you need them. Can save a ton of money by buying these corded and second hand, then getting a set of cordless drill and impact driver
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2013 18:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 21:21 |
|
|
I frequently use my sawzall in places where I would need a long rear end extension cord, like under the house or pruning trees in the back yard, being cordless is nice.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2013 18:32
|
|