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I have the chance to buy a 2001 330ci sport for 5700. I think I'm going to do it instead of buying a sensible car. I looked at it and the only real issue is some surface rust on that weird recess in the front fender near the rocker panel. Everywhere else is ridiculously clean. Interior is mint, drives fine and all the electronics work. I wasn't going to buy a 2nd BMW again but its just too good of a price. I just need to hope no one jumps on it before Monday when I can actually hand over cash.
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Jul 5, 2013 04:37
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ChineseBuffet posted:You can find a thread on this car over on ZHPMafia claiming it's a salvage title, although perhaps a potential buyer just posted that to scare competitors. But at that price, probably true. Should it be asking more or something?
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Jul 5, 2013 05:42
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Beach Bum posted:If my M3 came to me like that I would be seeing red. They'd have to shoot me. This is the kind of poo poo that just follows me around all of the time, so I can't even really work up a good head of 'mad' over it anymore. The odometer is where it should be, just past 110k. I'm really hoping that this was an honest mistake, but the fact that I'm having to learn about it on delivery rather than as a phone call when it happened has me bracing for a fight.
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Jul 5, 2013 05:47
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televiper posted:This is the kind of poo poo that just follows me around all of the time, so I can't even really work up a good head of 'mad' over it anymore. I wrecked 5 cars in the last six years; an E36, three E30s, and a 97 Miata  I know your pain only one of the E30's and the Miata were my fault; was doing stupid poo poo in the E30 and fell asleep at the wheel in the MiataGood luck getting everything straightened out. 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Jul 5, 2013 |
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Jul 5, 2013 06:20
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Crustashio posted:I have the chance to buy a 2001 330ci sport for 5700. I think I'm going to do it instead of buying a sensible car. I looked at it and the only real issue is some surface rust on that weird recess in the front fender near the rocker panel. Everywhere else is ridiculously clean. Interior is mint, drives fine and all the electronics work. I wasn't going to buy a 2nd BMW again but its just too good of a price. I just need to hope no one jumps on it before Monday when I can actually hand over cash. Honestly if you just budget to replace the cooling system off the bat, they generally aren't too bad. They're a bit of a maintenance hog, but pretty reliable once the major bugs are worked out. (Cooling, VANOS, Bushings/Control Arms/Suspension bits)
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Jul 5, 2013 06:54
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Cojawfee posted:Should it be asking more or something? Yeah, that would supposedly be a very good deal for a clean car (certainly is relative to what people ask, but I don't know how that compares to actual transaction prices).
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Jul 5, 2013 09:56
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Viper_3000 posted:Honestly if you just budget to replace the cooling system off the bat, they generally aren't too bad. They're a bit of a maintenance hog, but pretty reliable once the major bugs are worked out. (Cooling, VANOS, Bushings/Control Arms/Suspension bits) Cooling system has even been done. I expect to need to do all the suspension stuff but at this point I can do e36 stuff in my sleep and e46 is fairly similar. I though sleeping on it would change my mind but I just want it more now.
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Jul 5, 2013 13:02
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Phone doublepost
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Jul 5, 2013 13:03
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Crustashio posted:I have the chance to buy a 2001 330ci sport for 5700. I think I'm going to do it instead of buying a sensible car. I looked at it and the only real issue is some surface rust on that weird recess in the front fender near the rocker panel. Everywhere else is ridiculously clean. Interior is mint, drives fine and all the electronics work. I wasn't going to buy a 2nd BMW again but its just too good of a price. I just need to hope no one jumps on it before Monday when I can actually hand over cash. drat that sounds like a great deal. Everything around here (Arizona) is way overpriced imo and while California is close by, people seem to mark theirs up even more. I just want a decent BMW coupe for autox at non-exorbitant price 
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Jul 5, 2013 16:47
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Is this the correct part (# 51-71-8-232-894-M9) to replace the plastic piece at the base of the front windshield on an e46 330Ci coupe? I looked it up on RealOEM and on Pelican to get a picture, but I can't really tell. Mine's starting to get a few missing chunks and it needs to be replaced.
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Jul 5, 2013 17:08
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Yeah that should be it, you'll need a gear puller thingie to pull the wiper arms without hassle.
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Jul 5, 2013 17:14
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I recently replaced the windshield cowl on my car and was able to do it without a gear puller. I marked off on the window where the wiper should sit, and just wiggled them free.
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Jul 5, 2013 17:32
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Cojawfee posted:Should it be asking more or something? ~$13k for that ZHP would be a fair deal assuming it is in good condition. So seeing it listed with an asking price of under $12k (presumably would sell for even less) is a little suspicious... but not necessarily an indication of salvage. It could just be a fantastic deal.
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Jul 5, 2013 20:50
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Crustashio posted:I have the chance to buy a 2001 330ci sport for 5700. I think I'm going to do it instead of buying a sensible car. I looked at it and the only real issue is some surface rust on that weird recess in the front fender near the rocker panel. Everywhere else is ridiculously clean. Interior is mint, drives fine and all the electronics work. I wasn't going to buy a 2nd BMW again but its just too good of a price. I just need to hope no one jumps on it before Monday when I can actually hand over cash. $5700 for an '01? That's a screaming deal if you're buying in  ...so good I would be wondering what the catch is. Unless it has a zillion miles on it, an '01 should be going for ~$8000 or so, maybe approaching $9000 with the sport package (yes, BMW prices in Canada are overinflated).
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Jul 5, 2013 21:51
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Anyone have experience with E36s and camshaft position sensors? Got a check engine light, the code was P0340. The car was basically sluggish at low RPM and nothing worse. Ordered a new sensor from Pelican, installed it, and now the car won't even idle. To really make me look like an rear end in a top hat the check engine light went off after a few times starting the car. Any thoughts? I'm thinking (hoping although it's annoying) that the new CPS was just DOA but I don't know. I guess I'll swap the old one back in and see what happens...
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Jul 5, 2013 23:35
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So I've talked to the current owner of the e39 540i M Sport I found down in California. The previous owner before him (2nd total) was, in his words, a "an engineer who was very meticulous and had it under warranty. He would scour the forums and get BMW to proactively replace everything." Transmission, clutch, water pump, power steering hoses, radiator, and the power steering pump are all noted as being replaced in the Carfax, and according to the current owner, there's a thick manilla folder full of documentation. This guy put lots of miles on it though, about 70k highway miles in 3 years. He also reported an accident (Carfax says any damage greater than $750 must be reported in CA), although the current owner says it was just a love tap on the freeway that required no body work and only paint work. The current owner has put another 40k on the clock over the past 4 years (It's ~140k now), and says he's had it maintained at a "high end" shop, although he does oil changes himself (and hasn't ever bothered to reset the oil/service lights). He's had the following done to it: "I replaced the coolant expansion tank in the last 6 months, and I replaced the top hose in the last couple years. I recently replaced the thrust control arms and lower arms to eliminate the typical "shimmy" that happens over time. The starter was replaced last year." The valve covers have also been replaced 2 or 3 times between the two of them. So, on one hand, it sounds like a car that's been proactively maintained, and well cared for. On the other hand, was the 2nd owner just being proactive, or was the car actually a huge pain in the rear end? The current owner saying everything works, and not mentioning any huge service items lends credence to the first, right? I'm about this > < close to flying down there and buying it, after a PPI.
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Jul 6, 2013 00:18
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Wombot posted:So I've talked to the current owner of the e39 540i M Sport I found down in California. The previous owner before him (2nd total) was, in his words, a "an engineer who was very meticulous and had it under warranty. He would scour the forums and get BMW to proactively replace everything." Transmission, clutch, water pump, power steering hoses, radiator, and the power steering pump are all noted as being replaced in the Carfax, and according to the current owner, there's a thick manilla folder full of documentation. This guy put lots of miles on it though, about 70k highway miles in 3 years. He also reported an accident (Carfax says any damage greater than $750 must be reported in CA), although the current owner says it was just a love tap on the freeway that required no body work and only paint work. It sounds lemony but how much is a PPI? $100? I'd take the gamble, odds are probably in your favor.
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Jul 6, 2013 00:39
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When is the goon recommended interval for cooling system replacement? I have an 04 zhp with 71k. I used to think I would do it at 75k but now I'm closer to 90 or 100k (partly because I moved to nyc and I can no longer do all my own maintenance so it will be way more expensive). That and the roads here are so bad it's making me want to overhaul the suspension first, which hasn't been touched, outside of control arm stuff which predictably had already broken around 60k.
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Jul 6, 2013 01:43
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da weed wizard posted:Anyone have experience with E36s and camshaft position sensors? Did you get an OEM BMW one (siemens)? I had the same error and read that this was one part you want to spring for the expensive version as the cheaper ones have been known to show up DOA or die after a couple months. It could also be something really silly like the electrical end isn't a tight connection.
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Jul 6, 2013 02:36
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Captain Postal posted:it ends in a ".au", so everything is way overpriced. Except that nothing else is cheaper. It makes aus-goons sad goons Do you guys get ex-UK imports? Here in NZ we're starting to see more and more of them
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Jul 6, 2013 02:39
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dissss posted:Do you guys get ex-UK imports? Here in NZ we're starting to see more and more of them The advice I got was actually to buy from you guys in NZ because of tax-something-something and prices being cheaper. My poorly researched impression is that yes, we can get a UK import, but unless it's something super exotic, we'll lose all the savings in shipping, inspection/registration costs and higher insurance premiums - if we can get it insured. That and I'd prefer to buy a car from a region that doesn't have frozen winters.
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Jul 6, 2013 07:04
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Can someone simply explain the VANOS system of the E46 M3? I can't shake the desire of teenage me that fell in love with it when they were released. Prices are becoming more and more realistic too and I am thinking of saving up for a while/selling my MS6 and buying one outright. Do you really need to budget $2K annually for maintenance/upkeep? My commute is much shorter than its ever been (~15 miles/day) leading me to only be putting MAYBE 8K a year since my wife's car is more the people carrier. I've read some FAQs on the E46, but the VANOS is the most puzzling thing.
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Jul 6, 2013 15:26
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Can someone simply explain the VANOS system of the E46 M3? I can't shake the desire of teenage me that fell in love with it when they were released. Prices are becoming more and more realistic too and I am thinking of saving up for a while/selling my MS6 and buying one outright. Do you really need to budget $2K annually for maintenance/upkeep? My commute is much shorter than its ever been (~15 miles/day) leading me to only be putting MAYBE 8K a year since my wife's car is more the people carrier. I've read some FAQs on the E46, but the VANOS is the most puzzling thing. VANOS works by using engine oil pressure to adjust camshaft timing. For each camshaft, there is a piston which has high pressure engine oil on one side and low pressure engine oil (and a spring) on the other. This piston is in turn connected to its camshaft via a set of splines. By adjusting oil pressure on the high side (via a set of solenoids controlled by the DME), the piston moves forwards or backwards, causing the camshaft to advance or retard slightly. VANOS is a mechanically simple system that allows rapid and infinite adjustment of camshaft timing through a range of 15 to 20 degrees, if I recall correctly. Unlike other systems, it does not change cam profiles, valve lift or duration. Where VANOS fails is that over time, the seals on the pistons degrade, causing pressure to leak between the high side and low side. From my understanding, a leaky seal prevents proper pressure build-up on the high side, which causes the system to respond sluggishly and "bounce" off the spring/low side. This bouncing causes the "VANOS rattle" that you've no doubt heard of by now. At that point, you can replace the VANOS with a new BMW unit (expensive and foolish, as the seals will degrade over time again), a rebuilt unit from Dr. VANOS with upgraded seals (expensive but prudent), or rebuild the unit yourself with upgraded seals from Beisan Systems (cheapest option, but most complicated). As for the M3, $2k per year for maintenance is probably about right for the amount you're going to drive it. Remember that the M3 is much more highly-strung than most other cars (and arguably more than any other BMW) and as such individual components are much more stressed, leading to shorter service lives. Beyond that, any wear items are typically M3-specific and will carry a much higher price tag than their non-M counterparts. Also, the M3 demands more frequent servicing than non-M cars and has a number of M3-specific maintenance procedures, such as valve adjustments every 30,000 miles. If you're willing to spend the money caring and feeding an M3, they're great cars; just bear in mind that it won't be cheap.
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Jul 6, 2013 16:57
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I don't have a commute (work from home or fly to client), I have a spare car that only gets used in snow and to park at the airport, and my girlfriend has her own car and only a 1.5 mile commute. I put ~1500 miles a month on my M3. When you buy your dream car you find excuses to drive.
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Jul 6, 2013 18:26
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Thanks for the explanation! I have seen the offerings from Dr. VANOS and whatnot, just I never understood why it needed so much attention and what it actually did. Amid all of the E46 banter I've read I'm still undecided on straight manual or SMG. The SMG would allow for my wife to drive it much easier (which will sway her towards agreeing on actually buying one). Thanks again!
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Jul 6, 2013 19:55
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Thanks for the explanation! I have seen the offerings from Dr. VANOS and whatnot, just I never understood why it needed so much attention and what it actually did. Amid all of the E46 banter I've read I'm still undecided on straight manual or SMG. The SMG would allow for my wife to drive it much easier (which will sway her towards agreeing on actually buying one). Thanks again! The SMG is garbage. Unless your wife is physically incapable of driving the manual get the manual.
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Jul 6, 2013 22:13
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Before I bought my E46, my wife didn't know how to drive manual. I taught her in this car, and now she's insistent that any other cars we buy are also manuals (and also possibly something with an ///M badge on the trunklid). Also, the PO of my car mostly let his wife drive it, which explains how it somehow had 24mpg avg mileage on the OBC. I'm lucky if I can keep it above 21mpg the way I drive. Basically, teach your wife to drive a real trans, if she hates it, you married the wrong woman.
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Jul 7, 2013 02:13
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HotCanadianChick posted:Before I bought my E46, my wife didn't know how to drive manual. I taught her in this car, and now she's insistent that any other cars we buy are also manuals (and also possibly something with an ///M badge on the trunklid). I keep trying to get my girl into the M3 but she doesn't want to. I assume it's because the highest power car she's ever driven was an automatic Corolla and she doesn't wanna break it 
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Jul 7, 2013 02:24
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Oh my wife certainly knows how to drive stick. She learned how to drive using a car with a manual trans. It's just right now she doesn't drive the speed6 enough and that is one drat touchy clutch, put that + turbo trying to spool makes for a jerky ride with someone that's not familiar driving the car daily. I've driven an SMG E46 and didn't hate it, but I've yet to try rowing the gears myself in one. I'm sure I'd love it.
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Jul 7, 2013 06:30
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My wife loves to drive the M3, and she can even revmatch her downshifts  but the most car geekery she will engage in is watching Top Gear.MrChips posted:If you're willing to spend the money caring and feeding an M3, they're great cars; just bear in mind that it won't be cheap. I wanted to reinforce this - Blackstone told me that 7500 miles was about the most I should put on the E92 between oil changes. Considering that their standard service interval is 12-15K I think it's important to remember that what BMW recommends is really the bare minimum that the cars actually need.
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Jul 7, 2013 14:39
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Definitely; maintenance schedules are designed to minimize cost of "free maintenance" programs and under the assumption that most people sell off their "old" cars before 100k and that neglect probably won't do anything bad before then.
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Jul 7, 2013 16:42
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Infinotize posted:When is the goon recommended interval for cooling system replacement? I have an 04 zhp with 71k. I used to think I would do it at 75k but now I'm closer to 90 or 100k (partly because I moved to nyc and I can no longer do all my own maintenance so it will be way more expensive). That and the roads here are so bad it's making me want to overhaul the suspension first, which hasn't been touched, outside of control arm stuff which predictably had already broken around 60k. Shameless repost.
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Jul 7, 2013 16:43
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Infinotize posted:Definitely; maintenance schedules are designed to minimize cost of "free maintenance" programs and under the assumption that most people sell off their "old" cars before 100k and that neglect probably won't do anything bad before then. All those programs are designed to do is keep brand new car alive for the "3 year turn and burn" leasee who then turns it in (where it's either cpo'd or auctioned) and gets another new shiny vehicle. They next buyer buys the vehicle with around 36k miles on it and keeps it another 3 years at the same maintenance intervals. It's the third/fourth buyers that pay for the early negligence with bigger repair bills and earlier failure rates. The 2002 E46 330i I bought in late 2005 was a 3 year lease turn in by what I guess was a cool mom (since it had a 5 speed) from Ventura County. I came to that conclusion since the passenger rear door handle showed excessive wear, like someone was always opening it while either holding the keys or having hooker fingernails, and there were clear marks of a child seat in the rear passenger side, and the child seat plastic cap was missing. I'd like to think Mom/kid had some good drives in this car much like my own mother and I did back in the mid 70's in her 74 2002. No problems with this car in the over 90k more miles I've put on it...but i do proactive maintenance and 7,500 oil changes even when it was under CPO coverage. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 17:03
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gently caress, I'm that 3 year second buyer rear end in a top hat.
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Jul 7, 2013 17:05
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Cojawfee posted:gently caress, I'm that 3 year second buyer rear end in a top hat. Me too, but buyer three of my 06 got a 330 instead of a 325 like the badge shows, and up to date maintenance, done more often than the dealer would have. I didn't do the cooling system though. I think I'm giving up on getting another manifold to repeat the 330 conversion with this car.
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Jul 7, 2013 17:42
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When I get my 1 series, I'm going to take much better care of it than with my 3 series. It's my first BMW and I've made grievous errors in it's maintenance.
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Jul 7, 2013 17:48
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Infinotize posted:Should I neglect to perform preventative maintenance on a system that is known to fail catastrophically, sometimes causing irreparable engine damage? Do it now, before you spend a bunch of time on the suspension.
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Jul 7, 2013 19:55
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Jokes on them, I plan on handing my M3 in 18 years to my son as a High School Graduation present. As such it will cost me and arm and a leg to keep it maintained but I know what I signed up for.
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Jul 7, 2013 22:07
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Infinotize posted:Shameless repost. I thought 60K was pretty well the accepted interval to overhaul everything in the cooling system, or accept that any one of the numerous plastic components will inevitably fail at the worst time. edit: whoever gets the 1 series I just got rid of, is getting a pretty good deal. it has had gobs of stuff replaced (including the radio on the last day of original warranty haha), and I put the CDV in. hell, here it is on autotrader. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 22:17
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Just to comment on the "BMW lengthened the service intervals once it was on their dime" conspiracy, there are a few things to consider: - Perhaps the old intervals were no longer always necessary for the average driver considering advancements in technology, but the dealers pressured BMW to leave them alone since it generated revenue/got people back in the dealership. - As BMW service intervals are global and some other countries have stricter environmental regulation regarding disposal of automotive fluids it may have made more sense to push the intervals out to improve compliance. - Perhaps they found no strong causal link between increased service intervals and maintenance issues at higher miles I think the assumption that BMW changed the intervals to save money at the expense of long-term reliability is a bit short sighted. It sounds more like something Ford would do.
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Jul 7, 2013 22:26
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