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Holdbrooks posted:The car is super easy to work on and I love how easy it was to run the 0awg wire for the amps using the cord covers already in the sills. But the non flat mounting surface for the from door speakers and the like 2x4 speaker grill on the door panel. I have to hand file the contours of the door on the MDF adapters I made to put some comps in the front doors. What in the world kind of system needs 0awg wire?? I just wired up a 1200 watt system and we used 4 gauge and I thought even that was unnecessary.
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Jul 2, 2013 03:53
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Audiophiles 
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Jul 2, 2013 04:28
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Holdbrooks posted:The car is super easy to work on and I love how easy it was to run the 0awg wire for the amps using the cord covers already in the sills. But the non flat mounting surface for the from door speakers and the like 2x4 speaker grill on the door panel. I have to hand file the contours of the door on the MDF adapters I made to put some comps in the front doors. Until you try replacing the passenger side valve cover gasket. That A/C evap housing is Right. In. The. Way. PITA.
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Jul 2, 2013 06:06
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leica posted:2nd week of July I'm taking time off and hopefully gonna put a dent in the huge pile of parts I have for the Vic. I want to get it done but I'm not exactly excited about it because gently caress working on cars in FL in July And people give me poo poo about living in Indiana. It was 74 degrees outside today and I was able to get my garage sorted cleaned up while barely cracking a sweat.
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Jul 2, 2013 06:09
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So got a 2000 Grand Marquis that's missing once hot (both under load and just idling). Any gotchas we should be checking before we start doing the ABCs of troubleshooting? Edit: No CEL is illuminating when it does this. Jared592 fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 13:45
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Rhyno posted:And people give me poo poo about living in Indiana. It was 74 degrees outside today and I was able to get my garage sorted cleaned up while barely cracking a sweat. The heat doesn't bother me unless I have to work on my cars in it. I usually try to get poo poo done during the winter but the timing just got all hosed up this year so I'm gonna have to suffer. Air ride is completely hosed and has to be replaced.
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Jul 2, 2013 15:47
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Any idea where it went? Surprisingly, no. I don't have any leaks that I can see, I've been checking the car for the last two days. No drips, no wet spots along the coolant lines, no holes in the radiator (which is still in decent shape). e: Anyone in the Detroit/Warren area in this thread? If they can help me figure out how to do basic repairs and get my stereo playing again, I'll buy 'em dinner and a 6-pack of their choice.
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Jul 2, 2013 18:55
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cbx posted:Surprisingly, no. I don't have any leaks that I can see, I've been checking the car for the last two days. No drips, no wet spots along the coolant lines, no holes in the radiator (which is still in decent shape). What's wrong with your radio? Factory unit? Is it powering on but just no audio? I've had the internal amplifiers of a few 90's Ford radios go bad to the point where they just emit static. P.S. I'm in Dearborn but I haven't wrenched on a car in probably 6 years. My repair skills were mediocre then, they're probably poo poo now. Mental Hospitality fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 00:42
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SouthLAnd posted:What's wrong with your radio? Factory unit? Is it powering on but just no audio? I've had the internal amplifiers of a few 90's Ford radios go bad to the point where they just emit static. I recently had a Kenwood unit installed. Worked fine but then one day it went into protect mode after a couple of speaker pops out of the driver's front door area. Apparently I have a short somewhere in the door but I have no tools or knowledge of how to access it myself. Plus the battery died on me today maybe due to the same short.
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Jul 5, 2013 21:37
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Pulling new wires into the door isn't the worst job in the world, though definitely a PITA. Had to do it on a few of my cars actually.. Pull the kick panel, remove the door panel and speaker, grab a metal coat hanger (or better yet, actual fish tape) and some tape, go to town. After disconnecting the battery, of course. Just abandon the existing wire and pull new wire all the way to the head unit, just try to pull it into smurf tube or something to protect it once it exits the kick panel. At least on most of my cars, you're able to pop the rubber harness "sock" out of its housing, the rubber tube that goes between the door and car. No idea what the technical term is, but if you open the door and look at the wire tube, and know how it was originally installed, it makes sense. Disconnecting it from both ends may make pulling new wire easier - it just pops out, to reinstall you usually squeeze it a bit and pop it back into the openings. Again, once you see how it installs or how it connects, you'll get the idea of how it fits. A speaker wire short won't drain your battery, it'll just put your head unit or amp into protect (or if it doesn't have a protection mode, you let a little bit of the magic smoke out). Your battery dying is generally related to a worn out battery, a weak/dead/dying alternator, and/or corrosion on the battery cables. Likely 2 out of 3. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 10:38
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There was a bit of corrosion found on the cables. The car seems to be running well once again. Still need A/C, a brake job, and to get my audio back though.
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Jul 6, 2013 19:15
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Out of curiosity, what model/model years had the shifter on the floor/center console? For years I have wanted to build up a sleeper Panther and am finally in a place financially to do it
Tide fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 20:58
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Only the CV LX Sport model has a console shifter so just look for those.
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Jul 7, 2013 01:14
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Jared592 posted:So got a 2000 Grand Marquis that's missing once hot (both under load and just idling). Any gotchas we should be checking before we start doing the ABCs of troubleshooting? Your cats might be needing to be replaced or cleaned out, ive had two crown vics do that to me with high mileage, talking 200xxx+. One gave me the flashing code and the other just ran like poo poo until I hollowed out the cats.
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Jul 7, 2013 04:11
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Is there any real difference for shifter location besides personal preference?
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Jul 7, 2013 04:56
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leica posted:Only the CV LX Sport model has a console shifter so just look for those. I think the Marauder also had a console shifter.
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Jul 7, 2013 07:35
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lampey posted:Is there any real difference for shifter location besides personal preference? In man-trans cars, the console linkage's extra complexity tends to make it very sloppy, which can lead to botched shifts. I imagine the same goes for cable-operated column shift auto trans, it just matters a whole lot less. I mean I guess someone could be manually shifting their auto-trans Crown Vic, but it's somewhat of an empty gesture.
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Jul 7, 2013 08:33
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Works great for helping cut down on gear hunting on inclines though.
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Jul 7, 2013 19:40
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some texas redneck posted:I think the Marauder also had a console shifter. Yeah, but it wouldn't make a very good sleeper I would think. Expensive too. My LX Sport looks exactly like any other CV except for the wheels, put some steelies with hub caps on it, make it fast and you got yourself a nice sleeper.
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Jul 8, 2013 02:03
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Scob posted:Your cats might be needing to be replaced or cleaned out, ive had two crown vics do that to me with high mileage, talking 200xxx+. One gave me the flashing code and the other just ran like poo poo until I hollowed out the cats. Hmm, this car has about 70k on it. The previous owner was an old guy who didn't drive much. This is my dad's car. So far he's taken it to a shop and they replaced all the coil packs and plugs, but the problem persists with still no CEL. He's now thinking it might be a transmission problem but I feel like the car is awful young mileage-wise to be having trans issues, and I haven't seen any odd shifting or noises to indicate a transmission issue. I tried to connect to it with an ELM327 and Torque just to look for old stored codes, but for some odd reason Torque is unable to successfully connect.
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Jul 8, 2013 05:43
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Jared592 posted:I tried to connect to it with an ELM327 and Torque just to look for old stored codes, but for some odd reason Torque is unable to successfully connect. The ELM327 knockoffs don't talk to a lot of Ford OBD2 ECUs. In particular, earlier OBD2 models (2002 and older for sure on most models).
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Jul 8, 2013 06:58
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God dammit, got the CV on jack stands and found out all the front ball joints are toast. Trying to figure out if it's worth just getting loaded control arms or cheaper to have everything pulled out/pressed in.....Time being a factor also I'm thinking the former is the way to go. Might as well do a complete front end rebuild. gently caress.
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Jul 12, 2013 19:13
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some texas redneck posted:The ELM327 knockoffs don't talk to a lot of Ford OBD2 ECUs. In particular, earlier OBD2 models (2002 and older for sure on most models). Yep - some do but most knockoffs won't hook up. Get a real ELM327, or at least a knockoff verified to work on an early OBD2 Ford. Leica: If it's anything like the situation for the Ranger, anything that you can't press out yourself in the garage with a borrowed press is so cheap to buy preassembled from Rockauto that it's not worth the time to do it any other way.
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Jul 12, 2013 20:02
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SUPER HAPPY FUN TIME   Day 1, replace air ride suspension and rear shocks. Removal was pretty straightforward, the problem is contorting your body to get to the solenoids. First one came out with a rush of air, the second one no air at all came out. Then it's just a big cotter pin holding the top of the air bag, and then prying it off the bottom mount that's held on with a round inner clip.  Old and new. Getting the new one back in was pretty easy, besides getting the new bottom clip to snap on the mount which was a pita. New O rings lubed and installed on the solenoids and they were good to go. Did the shocks next which were again simple but a royal pain because of the location of the upper mounts, especially the passenger side which has brake lines in the way. It took WAY longer than it should have.  Rear bags and shocks installed, now it's on to the compressor.  It's located under the air box and washer fluid tank. I just removed the box and moved the tank out of the way, you can see the compressor down in the corner. Four nuts from underneath held it in and it pulled right out.  Old and new. This part was the easiest of the project, installed the new one and had dinner. Notice the second output for another line on the new one? I'm thinking an air horn   Day 2, front brakes and shocks. Not much to talk about here, shocks were easy and so were the brakes, just took some time to do it right. Replaced all the caliper hardware and flushed/bled the lines with Super Blue. I also installed some speed bleeders which made the process painless, speed bleeders are loving awesome.  Brakes and new KYB monotubes installed. No more warping pedal pulse and no more bouncy bounce  E: Notice the shot upper ball joint, they all look like that   Got her off the stands (which is a bitch) and started her up to fill the air bags, and got the poo poo scared out of me because for some reason the compressor decided to wait a few minutes to kick on and fill the bags, which was an  moment. Once it finally kicked on, the bags filled up and the car leveled out  Car drives awesome, brakes feel awesome. The shocks are excellent for the money and anyone with a Panther needs to get a set. Less than $200 for the set from rockauto. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 14:38
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I just can't trust air suspension for quick cornering work although I fully acknowledge that's not what the Panther is for. I do recommend the air horn solution though. Don't even do a plenum, just wire it in directly so it honks every time the shocks deflate.
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Jul 15, 2013 17:28
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Protip: when reinstalling the rear seat be sure to feed the middle seat belt to the front of the seat before you bolt it down. And the bottom cushion is easy to get back in if you get to the hooks in first and then tuck th back in.
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Jul 15, 2013 17:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I just can't trust air suspension for quick cornering work although I fully acknowledge that's not what the Panther is for. Haha. Hopefully the bags won't be deflating anymore, that was the whole point of the replacement. For an air horn all I need is a tank, lines, and the horn right? I wouldn't need a new relay just to trigger the horn would I?
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Jul 15, 2013 20:10
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Hmm, if you're going to get a tank, is there a reason you couldn't stick a quick disconnect fitting on there for emergency impact wrench duty or is the pressure not high enough for something like that?
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Jul 15, 2013 20:29
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I don't want a huge tank, besides I have an 18v cordless impact that works awesome. Also wanted to mention I had to buy an entire set of new lug nuts for like the 4th time since I've owned this car. Apparently people can't make chrome lug nuts for poo poo anymore.
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Jul 15, 2013 21:10
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leica posted:Haha. Hopefully the bags won't be deflating anymore, that was the whole point of the replacement. For an air horn all I need is a tank, lines, and the horn right? I wouldn't need a new relay just to trigger the horn would I? Depends on the horn. Some have a built in solenoid so you just feed them off the wire that would have gone to the stock horn. The one I put on my old jeep off a firetruck had a pullchain valve stock though, so I bought a new valve and attached a pullchain to it, then put it in the sunglasses compartment of the overhead console  (the 1/4 poly airline for it snaked in over the headliner quite easily)
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Jul 16, 2013 00:25
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leica posted:I don't want a huge tank, besides I have an 18v cordless impact that works awesome. Are they those chrome-jacketed steel pieces of poo poo? If so you should look into getting solid metal ones, they don't disintegrate after being on the road for two
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Jul 16, 2013 06:10
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Son of a gently caress I hate chrome-condom lugs so loving much. I think my least favorite feature is when the condom not only comes off the lug nut, but gets jammed into my 4-way, leaving me cursing while digging it out with a flat blade screwdriver and pair of needlenose pliers for the next 10 minutes. Somehow they always get really, really stuck in there.
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Jul 16, 2013 12:27
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Man I love the way these LX Sport wheels look way more than the 03+ versions. I like the 'dish' they have. My '11 LX has the flat faced version of these, and I think the older style looks tougher.
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Jul 16, 2013 13:14
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^^^^ The flat style wheels are a result of the updated front end. Offsets are way different.Fucknag posted:Are they those chrome-jacketed steel pieces of poo poo? If so you should look into getting solid metal ones, they don't disintegrate after being on the road for two I had those before and they sucked. Then the last set I got were solid chromed steel and the chrome started peeling off over time so the lugs looked like a rusted mess. I think it's a result of using an impact, once a chip gets in the chrome and moisture gets in there it's all over. I got the same kind this time because they were cheap and in stock at Advance Auto. But now I have the stupid lock nuts and have to buy another set of four to get rid of those 
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 16:22
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You could try a set of McGard chrome lug nuts. They are very high quality and so far I haven't had any problems with corrosion after only 6 months and probably 10 wheel removals with an impact since then. They aren't exactly cheap though.
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Jul 16, 2013 16:57
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Ugh. I got horrible news today. I went to the repair shop to get my A/C checked. Was told that the compressor is blown out. In order to fully replace it, they'd need to replace everything including the compressor, and it would cost me around $725-$750. Does this sound accurate to you guys? I really don't have the money to replace it, but this summer heat is killing me in a black car.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:04
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Junkyard part? I've had good luck with junkyard compressors and there are many AC specialty shops that deal in rebuilt ones for great savings. I'd consider going to an AC specialty shop for a second opinion if you've got one.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:31
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I was looking on craigslist earlier today and saw this. Coincidence? I think not. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/3904973215.html Now as to dealing with a shady dude from Tempe selling 'new' car parts on the craigslist... well.
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Jul 18, 2013 11:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Junkyard part? I've had good luck with junkyard compressors and there are many AC specialty shops that deal in rebuilt ones for great savings. Get that second opinion, but if the compressor actually sprayed metal fragments at all then yeah, you either replace the entire system now or do it later, including re-replacing anything you get replaced right now.
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Jul 18, 2013 13:45
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cbx posted:Ugh. I got horrible news today. I went to the repair shop to get my A/C checked. Was told that the compressor is blown out. In order to fully replace it, they'd need to replace everything including the compressor, and it would cost me around $725-$750. Does this sound accurate to you guys? I really don't have the money to replace it, but this summer heat is killing me in a black car. You sure they said everything? Maybe the dryer also but I can't think of anything else that would have to be replaced. I'd post in the A/C thread, and also get a second opinion at an good A/C shop.
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Jul 18, 2013 15:40
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