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Annnnnnd done.... I think. It's late and I'm too afraid to start it and see if any gaskets leak or any other bullshit. I will check that out first thing in the morning when my wife's FREEDOM powered exhaust won't be waking the neighbors. It all went relatively smooth except  Harley We lost 2-3 hours simply trying to thread the new clutch cable into the derby box cover. Fixed end on the cable + odd shaped cover = huge pain in the rear end to keep straight enough to simply start threading. Ended up getting success by having my dad hold the cable as high as he could in the air, while I sat on the floor jerking off the fixed end while holding the cover in my lap. That kept the whole assembly straight enough and easy enough to find the right angle that eventually it threaded. Nothing more typical as far as routing and screwing in a cable worked out. The clutch lever is significantly easier to pull. I hope that there are no engine or exhaust leaks as a result. Everything critical was done with Bobby Elvis supervising, and torque wrenches used all around. So I'm confident... still scary as hell though. clutchpuck posted:I ran into this hurdle on my vstar while replacing the clutch cable of all things. No thanks, Yamaha, I don't want to remove the muffler and header to get this silly cosmetic cover for the cable clutch actuator out, I'll just grind down a cheap allen tool to fit. WTB Angle Grinder. Honestly those stubby neck hex keys worked wonderfully though. Turned a serious chore into about as straightforward as tightening a bolt can be. For those wondering - the cover screws were indeed too long to clear the exhaust. Though if I have to get at it again... I'll take the slip-on mufflers off instead of loving around with the headers. This is something Bobby Elvis pointed out to me with a big gut laugh in response to my constant complaining about Harley. :edit: Pic of shiny new clutch cable.  The pull is much easier. Not as nice as a hydraulic, but not requiring tennis elbow inducing strength by a long ways. And pic of shiny new stud. Maaaan what a nightmare.  :edit 2: Halo_4am posted::edit: Then I started it and all the trans oil circulated/things tightened up. The cable is now pretty well the same as it was before I started. Welp. Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Jul 5, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 09:18
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Shot some sea foam down my throttle body until the bike flooded and stalled. Then when it would run on both cylinders again, I took the bike for a couple laps around town. Runs smoother, did nothing about the ping though. I also washed 5500 miles of bugs and crank case sludge off it. Had to use a toothbrush.
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Jul 5, 2013 03:17
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Halo_4am posted:And a new odd Harley... or maybe Haynes manual thing. In looking up the torque specs for the head bolts I found a peculiar spec: 16 ft lbs + 1/4 turn of ratchet. Why give me a precise torque setting, and then say add a 1/4 turn? Why not just give the actual torque setting for whatever it is with the 1/4 turn of the ratchet. One of those old school things I guess? It sounds like they're torque to yield bolts. They're designed to stretch to provide greater clamping force that is more resistant to the effects of heat cycling and required for the thin modern head gaskets. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=38342
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Jul 5, 2013 15:54
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Halo_4am posted:Progress: 16ft lb is probably the torque required to compress everything together tightly, but not enough to stretch the head bolt. The quarter turn probably introduces stretch. Once you stretch a metal it tends to continue stretching as it weakens. The tighter you made it, the lower the torque would be actually.
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Jul 5, 2013 16:05
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It was spec'd to 7 ft lbs to just compress everything. Then the range of 15-18 IIRC, and then the 1/4 turn. That makes sense though, and between that and the torque to yield explanation of straight torque not working out so well on various condition threads, etc. I'm glad I just followed the directions and didn't question or improvise. Bike is leak free so far. Figuring this job is done for the season. If something springs up now it will likely be a trickle and will be something better set aside until the time-constraint-free winter.
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Jul 5, 2013 16:23
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Talking about torques, the axles on my bike require you to tighten to X lb/ft, loosen for a bit, and then tighten to Y lb/ft, anyone know why that might be?
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Jul 5, 2013 20:35
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Probably to make sure the axle centers properly.
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Jul 5, 2013 20:44
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I reset the tps, set the idle, and adjusted the clutch cable over coffee.
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Jul 6, 2013 20:32
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Installed the Scotts steering damper, a set of woodcraft frame sliders, took off the flush mounts on my bike, and did some chain maintenance. Then I got distracted while taking it off the stand when my girl called and it dropped on the wall.  I would have been a lot more pissed if it hit the floor so I can't complain!
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Jul 7, 2013 00:58
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clutchpuck posted:I reset the tps Oh yeah, it's a new month, isn't it
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Jul 7, 2013 01:19
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Snowdens Secret posted:Oh yeah, it's a new month, isn't it I swapped my ECM out without setting it a couple months ago - "oh it runs fine whatever" in rebellion to the badweatherbikers hivemind wisdom to do it at every fill-up - and then put about 8,000 hard miles on it like that. The interval is 10k, so believe it or not it actually probably needed it. Didn't fix the pesky 2800 rpm roll-on ping but it pulls cleaner from 1500rpm now and runs smoother while cruising. I'll take it. Still need to take out some the slack in the throttle cables, but too busy riding and smiling.
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Jul 7, 2013 01:59
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I attempted to remove my heated grips from the switch circuit on my KLR. I've got heated grips and a heated gear plug-in that the previous owner installed, and gently caress if I can figure out HOW he wired all that poo poo in there. The heated grips have 3 wires (blue/white/pink) and the blue/white are wired into the switch along with another mystery yellow wire. The mystery yellow wire goes from the switch to this cluster-gently caress of electrical tape and other wires (which then goes back along the frame, which I didn't want to gently caress with). The pink wires are spliced out and into ANOTHER bundle that connects to the cluster-gently caress. And I have no idea if I can clip the heated grip wires and still have the switch control/deliver power to my heated gear plug. I bought a 12v to 5v step down converter and installed the correct plug (saving myself nearly 30$ after shipping over the one on happy trail) so I could charge my phone off of my heated gear plug. But whenever I turn on the system to charge my phone it heats up my grips. Which is unpleasant in 90 degree heat. So that's what I did/tried to do to my bike today.  fake edit: and the wires all connect to the switch under this block of silicone that he fused around them. Because he cares.
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Jul 7, 2013 06:16
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clutchpuck posted:I swapped my ECM out without setting it a couple months ago - "oh it runs fine whatever" in rebellion to the badweatherbikers hivemind wisdom to do it at every fill-up - and then put about 8,000 hard miles on it like that. The interval is 10k, so believe it or not it actually probably needed it. Didn't fix the pesky 2800 rpm roll-on ping but it pulls cleaner from 1500rpm now and runs smoother while cruising. I'll take it. I know you've put a ton of miles on recently but honestly the frequency that you post in this thread makes me hesitant to own a Buell.
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Jul 7, 2013 08:29
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To try and increase my fuel mileage, I replaced the dyno tune that was on the bike with the standard Buell race map, which matches my intake/exhaust. The dyno map had the o2 sensor disabled, so no closed loop cruising and no learn mode. Anyway, setting off after reprogramming it'd pop out of the exhaust pretty badly, which was to be expected as I'm below sea level. Cruised around for 20 minutes and it had increased the scaling it uses for the fuel table to 105%, and the popping was mostly gone. It still gurgles on decel though, and when I took off from a warm start (bike parked for 2 hours) after a couple of feet it stumbled for half a second, the rest of the trip went fine. So I hope I'm not running too lean, but that shouldn't really be possible as the map matches my bike exactly. People also say some popping/gurgling is normal with the race kit stuff, but I don't know whether to believe that. Anyway, this map feels smoother but also more docile, the dyno map felt more bitey at low rpm (not necessarily faster) and had more of a high-rpm kick.
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Jul 7, 2013 10:19
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Snapped an axle pinch bolt. I went to clean out the front calipers and check out the front wheel since it was feeling a bit squirrley, so I jacked the front up and went to take the wheel off. The right side pinch bolt came loose just fine but the left side was super loving tight to the point that I bought a set of metric allen sockets to get more torque on it. That worked sort of, it stayed tight, but loosened a turn or so then went snap. I finally got the Axle off and noticed it had a wear groove on the left side and burn marks on the right under the bearing. The right side bearing looks bad, the plastic seal is warped and trying to free itself from the race. I ordered a new axle and bearings and am now getting ready to go to Harbor Freight to buy a blind bearing puller. I might be able to use a set of channel locks to grip the pinch bolt where it's open underneath the end of the fork to work it the rest of the way out.
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Jul 7, 2013 15:48
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nsaP posted:I know you've put a ton of miles on recently but honestly the frequency that you post in this thread makes me hesitant to own a Buell. XBs are kind of for tinkerers and I bet I have more miles on my primary ride than anybody here, leading to more minor tinkering. That said I fully admit to having a Hank Hill level of obsession with machine maintenance. I haven't even posted about putting on my new ZTL rotor yet! clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 16:19
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High Protein posted:So I hope I'm not running too lean, but that shouldn't really be possible as the map matches my bike exactly. People also say some popping/gurgling is normal with the race kit stuff, but I don't know whether to believe that. Some gurgle or pop is totally normal with any relatively unmuffled exhaust. You can oftentimes hear gurgle and pop on stock bikes if you listen really closely with no earplugs on, it's just generally very muffled by the restrictive exhaust. On the tuning front, a high RPM kick on a modern 4T generally indicates that your tuner wasnt very good. A good tuner should smooth out the overall performance of the engine, giving consistent throttle response through the rev range. Smoother power is more usable, something that has a kick is always more difficult to ride fast due to having to manage it coming on the pipe, or keep the rpms out of the deadzone. A bitey throttle is often signs of a lean map as well. Sounds like you're pretty set, all told.
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Jul 7, 2013 16:59
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This weekend, I've been having fun with this: So far, it's a blast.
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Jul 7, 2013 17:09
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Z3n posted:Some gurgle or pop is totally normal with any relatively unmuffled exhaust. You can oftentimes hear gurgle and pop on stock bikes if you listen really closely with no earplugs on, it's just generally very muffled by the restrictive exhaust. Interesting, thanks. I'll ride around a bit some more with this map and see how it goes.
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Jul 7, 2013 17:11
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Put the shorty 'racing' screen on the Bandit yesterday, and took it out for a highway blast up to my friends' place for a barbeque. Dunno if there's much difference tbh, but I'll give it a few rides to see. Definitely see putting the taller one back on for any longer trips, it's nice to duck behind the screen for some quiet on the highway. Shorty screen makes it much faster getting the cover on when the rain starts coming down though!
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Jul 7, 2013 20:09
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Installed some oxford premium(right..) adventure heated grips on my transalp. Weather is real nice atm but they'll be handy come rainy fall days. Had to run a line to the battery though, hopefully the "off" mode is properly off. Could not find an easy accesible cable after the ignition. Whatever the POs have done with that jumble of black electrician tape maskerading as a cable harness is a bigger project 
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Jul 8, 2013 23:30
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Supradog posted:Installed some oxford premium(right..) adventure heated grips on my transalp. Weather is real nice atm but they'll be handy come rainy fall days. I have oxford grips on my bike (sport bike ones though...the only difference seems to be the grip pattern), I too ran a wire to the battery. This was a horrible mistake on my part. The off position is definitely off, I've had my bike sitting for a week without issue. However, you will forget them in the on position and return to a bike with a flat battery. I'm just too lazy to find an ignition-on wire to hook them to but I urge you to do the same. It just isn't worth the headaches. Additionally, don't trust the lovely double-sided pad they give you to secure the switch box to the bracket; it will last about a week in bad weather. Find some other means to secure it, like some sort of epoxy or what have you. Grips work pretty well though!
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Jul 9, 2013 01:17
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My personal favorite is a relay switched on by say the license plate light or something. That way it's impossible to leave the grips on and burn out the battery.
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Jul 9, 2013 01:54
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After a month's worth of switching back and forth between the SV650 and Z1000, I finally un-entombed my Ninja 636 and took it out for a ride. The noise from the stock intake/exhaust was even louder than the stock Z1000 and the Delkevic'd SV650 - that wonderful, tremendous growl exploding forth and becoming intertwined with a prolonged shriek. And boy, is that the suspension set-up I want on all my bikes. 
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 02:54
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My RS125 died on me at the last track day, I finally got around to working on it this weekend. It looks like it burned through the head 'gasket' (o-ring), then burned all the coolant, then the piston and cylinder got to know each other real well. At least parts are cheap and easy to find.
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Jul 9, 2013 05:22
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Slavvy posted:I have oxford grips on my bike (sport bike ones though...the only difference seems to be the grip pattern), I too ran a wire to the battery. This was a horrible mistake on my part. The off position is definitely off, I've had my bike sitting for a week without issue. However, you will forget them in the on position and return to a bike with a flat battery. I'm just too lazy to find an ignition-on wire to hook them to but I urge you to do the same. It just isn't worth the headaches. Additionally, don't trust the lovely double-sided pad they give you to secure the switch box to the bracket; it will last about a week in bad weather. Find some other means to secure it, like some sort of epoxy or what have you. My kit came with 4 small screws and holes in the bracket for them. That glue pad thing looked abit flimsy. A good tip with that plate light cable, I'll try to trace it.
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Jul 9, 2013 07:31
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Cleaned off the sticky residue from a lovely 'pro grip' thingy on the tank and replaced a turn signal bulb. Also finished off my first tank of gas - 51MPG average! Going to change my oil+filter next week, the PO told me he did the oil every 3K but didn't do the filter because it was "too hard" 
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Jul 9, 2013 16:20
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Did my own fork seals/dust seals/bushings for the first time, had a little bit of trial and error and one of the previous owners of the 954 stripped the right clipon pinch bolt to hell, so I got to play with my extractor bits. It's actually kind of fun to do. I figure not having to pay a shop for the service justifies me buying the 140$ racetech fork spring compressor :3     Old bushings looked pretty fried.  
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Jul 10, 2013 11:45
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What I did today was to get my bike pulled over. This apparently is an obstructed license plate. I took this sitting in my car about 10 feet behind my bike (apologies for the horrible camera phone zoom). The officer could only see the "C" on my license plate. Despite the fact the plate is tucked under the fender all the way up in front of the tire, it's pretty clear from the picture all the digits of my plate are visible, so I can only surmise what he meant was he could only see the "C" of "cycle" which is in small letters at the bottom of the plate. Not sure why that's important - it's obviously not a car plate. Guess I'll just drill into the hotbodies tail and mount a bracket, which I don't really want to do, but oh well. Other than that the cop was a pretty chill nice dude and bullshitted with me for about 5 minutes about ideas where I could mount the plate, so I'm not too upset about it.
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Jul 11, 2013 02:46
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Yeah because the goal of the plate isnt to be obscured by your tire at more than 30 feet away.
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Jul 11, 2013 03:57
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 Cop spotted.
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Jul 11, 2013 05:22
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MotoMind posted:
The only just plate relocator is my plate relocator!
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Jul 11, 2013 05:39
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Upgraded fork springs thru a local shop, 95 kg/mm achieved. The Z1000's carving through the city significantly better. Next few mods would necessarily involve the sprockets, handlebar, and the intake. There is a brutal fastness currently latent in the bike, and I need to tap into it. Or I should just find a streetfightered TL1000 and be done with it.
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Jul 11, 2013 07:02
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Halo_4am posted:Then I started it and all the trans oil circulated/things tightened up. The cable is now pretty well the same as it was before I started. Welp. The beast lives.  It also isn't suffering any engine leaks! Sick of getting beaten up by the bike. I took it to a well recommended Harley/chopper shop in the area (South Side Motorcycle in Orland Park) to install the Müller kit. The owner there said two things. 1: The clutch was too firm even for stock. The push rods for the clutch were well out of spec which was causing some of the increased firmness. This is a regular adjustment to be made every 10-15k miles, and an idea that never came up in my various searching of Harley tech forums. Though now that I know what to search for... there's tons of info on it and I'm not sure how I missed it to begin with. 2: That still wouldn't have been night and day and so it was a good thing we went for the Müller kit too. Clutch is now an easy 2 finger pull.   The wife is happy. Which means the rest of us are happy too. I never thought an easy clutch pull would feel like such a big win. #StereotypicalHarley Halo_4am fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Jul 12, 2013 |
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Jul 12, 2013 17:20
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Zool posted:My RS125 died on me at the last track day, I finally got around to working on it this weekend. It looks like it burned through the head 'gasket' (o-ring), then burned all the coolant, then the piston and cylinder got to know each other real well. At least parts are cheap and easy to find. Is that sarcasm? I want an RS125 - I remember when you bought that too, didn't you get a really good deal on it?
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Jul 12, 2013 23:07
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Live the painful dream yourself for only $2500 http://www.wmrra.com/forums/showthread.php?16384-Honda-RS125-for-sale Zool got a crazy good deal, but the thing is a bitch to keep running. Worth it though, when it gets on song its hilariously quick. Have a source for pistons now (probably) at least. There was one at Pacific Raceways yesterday that had a CRF450 motor shoved in it. Freaking amazing.
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Jul 13, 2013 00:03
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n8r posted:Is that sarcasm? I want an RS125 - I remember when you bought that too, didn't you get a really good deal on it? The parts being cheap and easy to find, yeah that was sarcasm. A top end kit was $330 when HRC was still producing them (10 years ago).
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Jul 13, 2013 02:50
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Finally got my HID headlight installed on my SV650n. I've been trying various things to get it properly mounted for about a year. I finally took the drat bulb to a welding shop and had them make some brackets for me. Now I just gotta find something to get the ballast out of the weather.
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Jul 13, 2013 05:15
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Spiffness posted:There was one at Pacific Raceways yesterday that had a CRF450 motor shoved in it. Freaking amazing. Yes.
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Jul 13, 2013 05:17
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It's been a big week for Ducati Projects! Today I ordered new spark plugs, grips, and an oil filter for my M900. In the last few days I installed a fresh set of Bridgestone BT-O16's with the help of a friend, and I adjusted the valves all by myself! I am blown away by how "new" my 37,000 mile, 2001 Monster feels. One thing I have noticed since the valve adjustment is that my engine idles higher than usual (around 1,400rpm) and it hangs around 2 or 3k for a few seconds when I stop at a red light. It also feels like it's running hotter than normal, but that could be my imagination. I think I will play with the air bypass screws tonight, see if that makes a difference. EDIT: How could I forget! I also dropped down to a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket to make the bike a little more Pennsylvania-friendly. WildWanderer fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jul 14, 2013 |
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Jul 14, 2013 02:40
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