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Any little maintenance tips for my 2007 250R with just about 10K miles? Next week I'm doing the oil+filter, but are there any other little things I can do? Do I need to oil the air filter? Are there any little drains I have to clean out? Spark plugs necessary yet?
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 16:24 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 16:17 |
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That depends, how well did the PO take care of it? What color is the oil/brake fluid?
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 17:29 |
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The valve clearance is supposed to be checked every 6k miles, so depending on whether or not that was done before at 6k, it might be good to do it soon.
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 18:31 |
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So I know this is the 250 thread, but a 500 isn't the worst thing ever for a beginner either, right? I'm actually fine with a 250, it's just that if I also potentially am open to a 500 as well, there are half again as many potential bikes in the area (Southern Bay Area) for half-reasonable prices on Craigslist, and some of the 500s seem like they might be (in some cases) better deals. I'm a little shy of pulling the trigger on any of these though - I've got nearly zero experience (Did MSF course, got M1) because the first used bike I picked up (split with a sibling that also got an M1) turned out to be a lemon very quickly. Anyone else have any tips? I'm not trying to be ridiculous, especially for a bike for a new rider - but I'm just worried about the severity of damage to a bike that's been dropped. If it's just cosmetic, whatever. Fayk fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jul 9, 2013 |
# ? Jul 9, 2013 21:56 |
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Voltage posted:Any little maintenance tips for my 2007 250R with just about 10K miles? Next week I'm doing the oil+filter, but are there any other little things I can do? Do I need to oil the air filter? Are there any little drains I have to clean out? Spark plugs necessary yet?
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 21:59 |
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Fayk posted:So I know this is the 250 thread, but a 500 isn't the worst thing ever for a beginner either, right? A GS500 or a Ninja 500 wouldn't be a terrible choice, no. GS500s are solid bikes but the only major issue is the valve checks. I might have a line on an Intruder 700 if you'd be interested in a more cruiser type bike.
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 22:15 |
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Fayk posted:So I know this is the 250 thread, but a 500 isn't the worst thing ever for a beginner either, right? Which 500 are you looking at? Most of them are fine, it's just that the 250 is pretty light and will be easier to move around/handle until you're used to moving motorcycles in general. If the bike's just been dropped you're usually looking at cosmetics. Maybe a busted mirror from its stem being snapped, some marks on the plastic and the stator cover, bent or snapped clutch/brake levers on the handles, bent shifter and rear brake levers, scratches on the pipe, maybe footpegs beings slightly bent too and if you're really unlucky, busted signals. If it's been crashed at higher speeds you'll be looking at all of the above plus possible damage to the forks, frame, the rest of the plastics that aren't normally scratched up, dents on the tank (although that can happen to with a very unlucky drop), etc.
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 22:18 |
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Z3n posted:A GS500 or a Ninja 500 wouldn't be a terrible choice, no. GS500s are solid bikes but the only major issue is the valve checks. Thank you, but would say that cruiser style is the one thing I was leaning away from. Angryboot posted:Which 500 are you looking at? Most of them are fine, it's just that the 250 is pretty light and will be easier to move around/handle until you're used to moving motorcycles in general.
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 22:26 |
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Yeah either bikes Z3N listed are fine, as long as you don't get dumb and start hammering on the throttle then forget how to turn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dcj591OhcLg
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 22:39 |
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Wrt ninja 500: look for models that are from 1995 onwards, the ones from 94 and before have a couple of lovely issues with the engine /transmission/flywheel that you really don't wanna have to deal with as a beginner.
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 22:43 |
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M42 posted:Wrt ninja 500: look for models that are from 1995 onwards, the ones from 94 and before have a couple of lovely issues with the engine /transmission/flywheel that you really don't wanna have to deal with as a beginner. Thanks (And thanks to everyone else). I was kind of wondering what years are viable both from a reliability standpoint as well as replacement parts. Part of the problem that made the previous bike purchase such a lemon was that even shoving money into it to get it fixed was looking like a 'pay a guy to spend time finding parts' issue, sadly. Atop whatever issues it actually had manifested so quickly.
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 22:58 |
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Broke my clutch cable on my 04 250 coming in to work. When I leave in the morning, it should be interesting
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# ? Jul 9, 2013 23:13 |
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Z3n posted:A GS500 or a Ninja 500 wouldn't be a terrible choice, no. GS500s are solid bikes but the only major issue is the valve checks. GS500 is good for a new rider but it has a common transmission quirk which is annoying as gently caress and could cause a really new rider some grief at first. I rode a friend's for a while and the first few times it freaked me out until I figured out what was going on. Sometimes (like frequently, not like .1%) the GS500 will decide its just chill and likes being in neutral and you can just gently caress your first gear. You're sitting at the light, you pop it into neutral, and then when its go time you clutch, press down, and nothing happens. All I needed to do to work around it was let the clutch out, grab it again and shift down with masculinity, but the first few times it was unnerving because I wasnt expecting it and i'm sitting there in neutral looking like a retard. Some people have said they have to roll the bike a bit to get it to shift but that wasnt generally my experience. Apparently this is a somewhat common problem. You can get around it by just staying in first at a light and holding the clutch, or just expecting it to happen and being prepared. Also if the owner isn't too bright and you have the slightest bit of game you may be able to use "WTF, the bike keeps missing downshifts, you've obviously abused it!" or something as a bargaining point to knock it down a few bucks. I don't know if it's something that can be "fixed" or if it's a design flaw you need to live with as your bike's quirk. Also be careful when pulling the key out because it has a parking light setting just a hair past the normal steering lock position and its totally stupid and you WILL drain your battery. For a first bike it would probably be just as good as a ninja 250 with the advantage of not having the 250's hype machine behind it keeping prices up.
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 03:18 |
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You should generally be in gear at lights, though. Also many bikes have that particular quirk - the easiest fix is to slip the clutch just a little bit and to put it in gear then. The dogs get misaligned to the slots they fit in, and don't mesh so the bike won't lock into gear. A little clutch gets things spinning and off you go.
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 03:59 |
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My throttle grip feels a little loose, there's like 1/16th of a turn before it actually pulls on the throttle cable. Is that a cable problem or is my grip just slipping on the bar?
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 06:04 |
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My god...how long have you been riding it like that?!
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 06:05 |
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I only noticed it recently, but I'm enough of a dumb poo poo that it's probably been that way a while.
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 06:07 |
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It's completely normal
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 06:13 |
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Haha, I was like 50/50 on it being completely normal OR being apocalyptically bad. Good to know!
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 06:18 |
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No faith in my test ride abilities! I'm truly wounded to the core!
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 06:52 |
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You're right! I completely forgot about that test ride. Thanks for dispelling my newbie worries, otherwise I would worry about every little thing until my second bike.
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 07:24 |
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M42 posted:You're right! I completely forgot about that test ride. Thanks for dispelling my newbie worries, otherwise I would worry about every little thing until my second bike. Which is funny cause you should really worry more about your second bike than your first, as by the time you get your second bike you're going to have all the kinks worked out on the first one
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# ? Jul 10, 2013 15:27 |
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Checking in with my 1997 EX250 with only 3800 KM on the clock. Anyone think I should take off the Twin-Cam 8-Valve decal?
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# ? Jul 11, 2013 21:11 |
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Absolutely not!
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# ? Jul 12, 2013 15:26 |
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Z3n posted:Absolutely not! On it stays then.
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# ? Jul 12, 2013 19:59 |
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Liopleurodon posted:On it stays then. It's your bike but I do love the hilarious stickers 80s bikes came with.
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# ? Jul 13, 2013 05:22 |
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Here is the 03 Ninja 250 (14k miles) I just bought yesterday for $1200, complete with ripped seat, leaking oil, and a Muzzy exhaust. This is my first bike and I haven't done much riding other than up and down my street and using my buddy's XR80 to learn on. If anyone has any tips (is leaking oil something I should be overly concerned about) for me they would be greatly appreciated. tbb9 fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jul 15, 2013 |
# ? Jul 15, 2013 00:09 |
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How big is the oil leak/where is it?
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 00:18 |
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That's the newspaper under the bike after about 8 hours, I don't know how to describe the leak better than that. But here is a picture I took the best I could of the underside of the bike, from this it appears to be leaking from what I assume is the drain plug, I guess (hope) that all things considered that's where I would want the bike to be leaking form.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 00:34 |
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It may be some dirt or something, but it looks to me like the washer on the drain plug is split at the top right, as though they used a lock washer instead of the normal crush washer, which would be hilariously stupid and also the likely cause of the leak. Or maybe they just reused the previous crush washer. If that's true, count yourself lucky that its an easy fix, but also be forewarned, as that doesnt bode well for any other maintenance that may have been done. It could also mean they overtorqued the gently caress out of the drain plug, which could cause risk of stripping the threads and that would be Very Bad
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 00:45 |
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Ok, first thing on the agenda was an oil change anyway but that might not happen till the end of the week. Are there any other common places I should check for a leak?
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 02:25 |
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tbb9 posted:Ok, first thing on the agenda was an oil change anyway but that might not happen till the end of the week. Are there any other common places I should check for a leak? Change the filter as well, check that the O-ring on the filter housing is intact. Looks like they did use a lock washer there, which is staggeringly stupid.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 02:29 |
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I'm going to guess with a lock washer and a bolt from home depot/lowes that the threads are going to be sketchy. If that truly is a lock washer on the drain bolt you need to slap the previous owner. You can clean the engine and let it sit over night to see where it's leaking, but I would guess from the drain bolt. edit: Should mention, congrats on the bike. Other quick things to check would be tire pressure and the chain.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 02:51 |
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Real quick checklist for bike parts for your first oil change Get like 10 of these crush washers, this is the part that should be there instead of that lockwasher Get a couple of these filter plate bolt washers, seeing what how the PO treated that bike it'll probably be missing this thing (though it's not a huge deal) This air filter, cycle gear stores sell em complete with the rubber gaskets This paper gasket, you'll probably want to check and clean your oil screen while you're in there Obviously 5w40 or 10w40 oil, walmart sells the wiki's preferred Shell Rotella T6 per gallon for $21, torque wrench , nitrile gloves, foil turkey pan, containers for old oil, etc Oil change procedure page on the wiki Checking the oil screen My only tip is to bookmark the n250rc wiki, it's pretty great for people that have no experience with riding or working on bikes. M42 fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jul 15, 2013 |
# ? Jul 15, 2013 04:54 |
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Thanks for everyone's help, I've enlisted a somewhat experienced friend to help me with all this over the weekend, oil change is first on the agenda. I'm also reading I should assume that valves and spark plugs have never been serviced, with all these miles this is also something I should check correct? And ninja250.org has already been a huge help with walk throughs.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 13:07 |
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Just got this '05 for $1900: The bad side: You almost can't see it in photos, but the fairing is cracked right along that corner at the top. I think I can fix it. Here's the cool part: I did a dumb thing right away after I got it home. Just tootling around a quiet neighborhood at ~20, I got to a stop sign but forgot to put it in first gear (I think I had it in a highly inappropriate gear, like fifth). Some Lexus RX pulled up behind me and I stalled. I did that about three more times and started to feel bad so I hopped off and walked the bike to the left just to get out of the way, and when I went to straighten it out, it started to fall right on top of me. Scuffed the corner of the left mirror, but I caught it with my left hand, which is why my wrist hurts all the time. The Lexus driver was kind enough to move along and not stop to laugh at me. Gonna have fun. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jul 15, 2013 |
# ? Jul 15, 2013 13:16 |
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tbb9 posted:
Before you change the oil, spray all that with WD40 and clean it up. It'll be way easier to see the source of the leak(s) (if it's still happening post oil change) if you can see the trail it's/they're making.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 13:49 |
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Well I found out why the bike has a new chain on it and at least one place the bike is leaking oil. according to a friend who is helping me tear this thing apart this is fairly common and is one of the usual things you check when buying a bike, sure wish I had bought him with me. Any way I need a new one of these (stator?): http://compare.ebay.com/like/380673864568?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Any way now I get to learn about working on motorcycles instead of learning about riding motorcycles, hooray. Also under all that oil we found some magnets stuck to the oil pan, I just hope that's not a forewarning of things to come. tbb9 fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jul 16, 2013 |
# ? Jul 16, 2013 05:27 |
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Do you live in CA? Magnets on the bottom of the bike are used to help trip those metal-sensitive traffic light sensors that a lot of california towns have.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 07:39 |
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# ? Jun 3, 2024 16:17 |
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Nope NJ where they're used to collect metal in the pan
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 11:27 |