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Yeah, pretty much. I never really grew up  Between the fact that Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, AMC, et al are all under the same umbrella and the way Dana/Spicer, New Venture Gear, Aisin/Warner, and a few other companies all make a massive number of components for many automakers, there's usually some way to bolt something together using all factory parts, you just have to feel like digging around to find the way to do it. I really enjoy the challenge of it because it's more entertaining than just throwing a credit card around buying parts on aftermarket custom parts suppliers websites. Conveniently, it also fits my budget (and most of my friends budgets) a hell of a lot better. And means repair parts and spares are as close as the nearest you-pull junkyard, rather than being 3 figures and a few days shipping away. Case in point: $137 for this whole axle setup if done right. The other way to put 6 lug dana 44 outers on a dana 30 axle is to buy custom aftermarket knuckle castings from Reid Racing, they're a great product but they cost $279 and you still need to buy wheel bearings, hubs, lockouts, brake rotors, calipers, spindles, and axleshafts. Or to hunt up a CJ dana 30 axle and bolt all the same parts I just listed to it, but with factory dana 44 knuckles. In either case, it costs a hell of a lot more than slapping it together in the junkyard from 3-5 different common contemporary factory vehicles and buying it for one lump sum.
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Jul 9, 2013 18:54
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If I tried to pull that poo poo at my local junkyards, I'd get kicked out and never let back in. Do you not have security wandering around to keep people from frankensteining poo poo in the yard?
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Jul 9, 2013 19:34
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I've never seen employees anywhere except the entrance/exit at the Pick and Pulls I frequent. Most of the time they don't even look in my backpack on my way out.
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Jul 9, 2013 19:48
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Security? What? Nope. We have random dirty raggy dudes who look just as sketch as the customers wandering around, sometimes in beat up trucks pulling parts or dragging trash/destroyed parts back to be crushed. The only time they get pissed is if you destroy parts, whether they were already hosed or not. The yard is pretty high turnover and I see all kinds of stuff get crushed with tons of perfectly good parts on it still because of that.
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Jul 9, 2013 20:07
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kastein posted:Security? What? [IMG]kasteinWailingOnASubaruBellhousing.gif[/IMG]
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Jul 9, 2013 20:31
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This is like an ultimateforce thread. Only you know, poo poo is actually getting fabricated. And less skinny jeans.
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Jul 9, 2013 21:10
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I'm half temped to ask you to junkyard piece a 29spline 8.25 LSD with disc brakes together for me. Shipping an axle would be a pain though.
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Jul 11, 2013 03:51
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It would be pretty expensive, in fact it'd probably outweigh the cost savings by doing that. Not much of a pain though, an 8.25 would fit on a long narrow pallet pretty easily and they aren't even heavy enough to need anything to unload out of my truck onto a freight dock, just pick the sucker up and move it. Last time I got a freight quote for shipping an axle it ended up being around $1 per pound shipped, which puts an 8.25 shipment at around 200 just for shipping. Way above what the axle would end up being worth, IMO. Gonna be up in mass anytime soon? We can hit the yard and throw one together. Expect to need to buy 10 ring gear bolts ($12 on rockauto) a pair of axle tube seals ($6 at autozone) and maybe some other stuff if you feel like refreshing it "while we're in there." As for poo poo getting fabricated, I have been a lazy sack this week and gotten almost nothing done. I did spend a couple hours with a needle scaler today taking chunky rust off the center casting of an MJ rear dana 44 for a friend's axle build I'm doing however, and discovered it is actually in better shape than I thought. It just had chunky rust literally 1/4" thick built up on the center casting  Pulled the axleshafts and (completely hosed) brake backing plates off, loosened the pinion nut, broke loose the carrier bolts and then carried it upstairs to my current transmission/axle rebuild "workshop"  Then just when I was going to actually get poo poo done (LSD into my truck) the sky opened up, there was a severe thunderstorm, and I ended up under tornado watch. So fuckall got done. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 03:56
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kastein posted:It would be pretty expensive, in fact it'd probably outweigh the cost savings by doing that. Not much of a pain though, an 8.25 would fit on a long narrow pallet pretty easily and they aren't even heavy enough to need anything to unload out of my truck onto a freight dock, just pick the sucker up and move it. Last time I got a freight quote for shipping an axle it ended up being around $1 per pound shipped, which puts an 8.25 shipment at around 200 just for shipping. Way above what the axle would end up being worth, IMO. I live in Maryland, I never have time to travel much.
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Jul 11, 2013 05:20
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Veeb0rg posted:I live in Maryland, I never have time to travel much. It's worth it to hang out with ken
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Jul 11, 2013 13:37
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Slow is Fast posted:It's worth it to hang out with ken Experience Empire Buffet.
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Jul 11, 2013 15:50
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Slow is Fast posted:It's worth it to hang out with ken I think you guys don't realize how boring things are around here when there aren't half a dozen goons present to keep things interesting. Unrelated: I am getting a job offer from the company I've been interviewing with... within the next few days. 401k, health insurance, partial dental/vision coverage, stock options, ridiculous amount of sick time (which I'm going to see if I can get reduced or converted to vacation time, though I don't use much of that.) This is gonna kick so much rear end  PS: I'm just gonna say it, I will literally be building flying cars. Specifically, the embedded systems and wiring harnesses that make them go. Best EE-nerd/AI job ever.
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Jul 11, 2013 18:48
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So who's car are we going to use to make it fly?
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Jul 11, 2013 18:51
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So who's car are we going to use to make it fly? My car already flies, I vote for the GL.
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Jul 11, 2013 19:19
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e: dammit STR 
kastein fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 19:22
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kastein posted:within the next few days. Awesome news, man. Can't wait for your house updates too.
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Jul 11, 2013 19:55
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Super Aggro Crag posted:So who's car are we going to use to make it fly? Does the 5 ton count?
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Jul 11, 2013 20:01
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kastein posted:I think you guys don't realize how boring things are around here when there aren't half a dozen goons present to keep things interesting. I'm sure the random police patrols with blood hounds would disagree.
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Jul 11, 2013 22:12
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 well, offer letter in hand, it looks like all I have to do is choose a start date now. I found out when I came inside halfway through installing the LSD in the MJ's 8.25 to wash the gasoline off my hands (don't look at me like that, it cuts gear oil better than anything else I can find for $3.50/gallon), grab a bite to eat, and find the torque wrench. Old open diff was in pretty decent shape, almost no carrier preload left but that's pretty normal given how many miles are on the diff. .010" backlash (loose as gently caress, that's the top end of the spec) and the pinion bearings are on the loose side, but there's still preload so I'm not loving with it. Especially since I have $120 into this diff and can get a new one anywhere. I'm reusing the ring gear bolts because rockauto wanted a kingly sum for shipping, we'll see how that goes. Time to slap it all back together.
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Jul 11, 2013 23:54
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Congrats on the job. I look forward to the even more hilarious adventures this should allow you to undertake. ex: some texas redneck posted:Does the 5 ton count? Presumably he will now be able to afford to shove some sort of obscene engine into the thing so hopefully!
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Jul 12, 2013 00:21
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Congrats on the job dude! It might be time to settle down with a nice Subaru for that commute you have coming up.
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Jul 12, 2013 00:43
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You know me better than that, if I end up with a subaru it will be a lifted rotted to gently caress Brat on like 35s and will get worse gas mileage than anything else I own.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:05
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Well, you could get one like this: or one like this:  
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Jul 12, 2013 01:12
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kastein posted:You know me better than that, if I end up with a subaru it will be a lifted rotted to gently caress Brat on like 35s and will get worse gas mileage than anything else I own. Brats are like the Brumby or something over this side of the pond, aren't they? Nothing wrong with that. I'm impressed as all hell at the difference putting the Ford Holley on the EA81 did for my VW. The motor went from being a rough piece of poo poo to the smoothest motor I've seen in ages. But if you saw my VW thread you'd know it wasn't a case of bolting an adapter on. It's a Franken-manifold but holy poo poo I've been considering one of the similar factory refurb carbs I've seen on U.S. eBay for the Niva. Difference is it'd be a bolt on affair this time. I think. Anyhow the Subies are fun.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:23
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Alright. Requirements are decent ground clearance (I live on an unplowed dirt road and we get a couple feet of snow a winter sometimes more), AWD, motors that don't let out the loving knocks (so NO EJ25S SORRY gently caress THAT), manual transmission, and at least 25-30mpg actual fuel economy. If it doesn't get at least that, I might as well just drive the jeep because it'll take 2-3 years to break even buying a vehicle to commute in even getting 30mpg, given the fact that another vehicle adds to my insurance premium, maintenance, excise taxes, etc. That's not even taking into account the fact that any subaru capable of getting 30mpg will probably not be a 500 dollar shitbox I can pick up off craigslist tomorrow.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:40
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97 Eclipse and put tall-sidewall tires on it.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:49
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Score a deal on a 90-94 EJ22/5-speed Legacy. It'll do dang close to 30mpg on the highway in good shape and you can probably find one for sub-$1k pretty easily.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:57
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I might have to look into that, since I'll be doing i90/95/93 from the 90/84 interchange to 1 exit south of the 95 beltline on 93 5 days a week. That's like 95% highway miles in this commute. LSD is in, backlash back to exactly what it was before (except now I actually have some carrier bearing preload!) and everything's buttoned up, RTV curing, then I put some diff lube in it and it's done. Can't wait to actually have traction in the back but I'll miss drifting hairpin corners with one tire screaming furiously 
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Jul 12, 2013 03:40
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At least it will be both tires screaming furiously now, and from my experience slightly more predictably.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:46
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I'm 99% sure my tired 4.0L and 3.55 gearing with 33" tires is way too much/too little for that, so it might manage a feeble chirp or two at most, but I'll be damned if I don't try. In fact the second I have diff lube in it I'll probably take it for a test drive, seeing as I live like 1.25 miles from a hairpin turn I used to always drift on my way home.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:49
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kastein posted:I might have to look into that, There are subarus that don't blow the gently caress up and get good MPG and you can still put a toolshed in the back and lift etc etc
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Jul 12, 2013 03:57
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Slow is Fast posted:There are subarus that don't blow the gently caress up and get good MPG and you can still put a toolshed in the back and lift etc etc You sound like chrisgt there Lightbulb Out, you were completely right. I definitely have a functional LSD now (not sure how functional, but it was doing a lot more than an open diff) and I still got it sideways through quite a few of the turns I just threw it into. Totally worth the time I spent putting it in today. I'm going to have to go back when it's light out and see if I left rubber in the last turn or not.
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Jul 12, 2013 04:53
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I didn't really take any pics of the teardown since it was simple. Leg press jeep, place on jackstands.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5zw80kIFxs there's about 2000lbs of poo poo hanging off the front bumper on the crane attachment. It only took 300-350lbs or so of force to do that lift. Remove wheels Remove brake calipers and rotors (I have ZJ disc brakes installed) (13mm wrench) Remove diff cover, drop several bolts and socket into drain pan full of gross gear oil (1/2" socket wrench) Remove cross shaft retention bolt (5/16" 6 point box wrench) Remove cross shaft, press axleshafts in, drop c-clips into drain pan full of gross gear oil Remove axleshafts, remove spiders and thrust washers, remove one side gear and thrust washer, drop other side gear and thrust washer into drain pan... Check backlash so new limited slip carrier can be installed with backlash set to same value: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlf6ZBa46uw (not reproducing the original backlash exactly will result in the contact pattern changing, which can result in extremely noisy or weakened differentials) Apparently I didn't take a picture but I kept the pinion from spinning while checking backlash with a pair of 4" c clamps and a scrap of 1.5x1/4" flat stock. C clamped it to the pinion housing, then c clamped the yoke to it. Normally I have a hard time holding the pinion steady enough to get a good backlash reading. Remove side adjuster hold-down clamps (3/8 or 7/16 socket I forget which) Remove carrier bearing caps (I believe this is a 5/8" socket) and set aside, keeping each one with the side of the differential it came from Remove carrier, bearing races (keeping them paired properly with the bearing they match) and side adjuster wheels Take picture:  (I don't want to hear anyone whining about it being hot in their shop.) New hotness, post gasoline soak to remove all the gunk:  (ring gear off old carrier since it's lapped to match the pinion in the housing, new LSD carrier along with its matched broken in carrier bearing races, 10 used ring gear bolts, pile of assorted spare hardware that was in the bottom of the gasoline wash bucket) Install ring gear on carrier (helps to place carrier in freezer and ring gear in a plastic bag in a bucket of hot water - this makes the ring gear slide right on and spin to line up the ring gear bolts, rather than having to pound it on with a deadblow) Tighten ring gear bolts to 70 foot pounds (they are left hand thread.) Use blue loctite, mark head of each bolt with silver sharpie after torquing. use a dab of heavy grease to glue each side adjuster wheel into the threaded seat, making sure they are not cross threaded. Load newly loaded carrier into differential with carrier bearing races matched properly to their bearing cones. Loosely install bearing caps so the carrier doesn't fall back out on your goddamn face. Make sure carrier bearing caps are seated properly on side adjuster wheels and not cross threaded. Hand tighten carrier bearing cap bolts. Use side adjuster tool (36mm axle nut welded to the end of a couple feet of iron pipe) and pipe wrench to adjust side adjuster wheels until desired carrier bearing preload and backlash are produced. In this case I aimed for 10 thousandths of an inch of backlash and "some" preload. Tighten carrier bearing cap bolts to 70 foot pounds.  Reinstall side adjuster hold down clips, axleshafts, slide c-clips into place, seat into side gears. Install cross shaft, put blue loctite on cross shaft retention bolt, tighten (5/16" 6 point box wrench) Slap cover back on with whatever RTV happens to be handy (1/2" socket) Fill with gear lube (30 minutes spent squeezing a god damned transfer pump bulb. I need to find my rotary pump.)  Reinstall rotors, calipers, wheels  Test  (it worked) kastein fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jul 12, 2013 |
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Jul 12, 2013 06:09
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That looks like a pain in the arse without a seperate 3rd member. Last toyo diff I did everything from pinion preload to carrier preload was done standing up at the comfort of a work bench. Lifting a 50kg 3rd member above your head and dropping it into the diff housing and trying to get the two 5mm dowels to line up, and then not have the bitch fall out on you while you put the 14 odd bolts in is a ball breaker though.
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Jul 12, 2013 06:17
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It really wasn't too bad, since with the truck on jackstands like that (and most of the weight off the rear anyways, and the spare tire winch removed) there was enough space that I could sit mostly upright, cross legged. The diff ended up about chest height while crouched under there, so even lifting the carrier and ring gear in wasn't overly annoying. It only weighs like 20-30lbs anyways.
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Jul 12, 2013 06:32
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That is one of the more clever ways I have seen someone change out a rear end. Well done. (Requesting truck drift videos)
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Jul 12, 2013 11:53
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Hit the junkyard today to pull some stuff, found none of it. Ended up breaking a 14mm gearwrench, two 1/2-3/8 drive adapters, my 1/2" breaker bar, a 3/8" ratchet, my 4lb BFH (used it so much the head actually flew off without breaking the handle) and a low profile 3/8 breaker bar/serp belt tensioner tool... all trying to get a drat steering knuckle off a dodge 1500 so I could test fit it on an XJ dana 30. After that I got pissed at it and proceeded to remove the balljoint nuts without pulling the axleshaft or unit bearing, bash the tapers loose from the outer knuckle with my reassembled BFH, then used the BFH, a large chisel, and a significant amount of anger to remove the balljoints and ujoint from the inner knuckle and axleshaft. Mission successful, sorta. Then I got almost all the tools replaced free under warranty on my way home I didn't expect the balljoints to actually come out of the inner knuckles with the BFH and chisel since they normally require a large press to remove, but I was stymied and full of inchoate rage so I guess that counted for something.The 6 lug unit bearing should definitely fit the knuckle (it will need through bolts and nuts and possibly a 1/8" flange spacer since the bolts go through the knuckle into the unit bearing on the dodge, and through the unit bearing into the knuckle on the chevy, which is better than the alternative, two threaded holes having to be fixed together) and the 6 lug rotor definitely fits over the 5 lug unit bearing nicely. Worst case, I guess we could just weld up the holes in the unit bearing flange and redrill them to 6 lug pattern, but custom fabricating service parts is one of the few things I really don't like to do, so going to try and avoid that. I measured the balljoint tapers on the 44 knuckle and it may or may not bolt up to the 30 balljoint tapers and inner knuckle. This was almost guaranteed since the source of that info was some inbred, completely illiterate hick spouting off on a chevy s10 forum, with about every third word in his post horribly misspelled. We'll see if it fits next time, I'm not really sure I trust my measurements and I really just want to test fit it. Then I went to pull a purge valve off an SOHC EJ25 02-04 Subaru for Seat Safety Switch and realized I had literally destroyed every single tool I had which was capable of driving a 3/8" socket. So much for that I guess, next time. So basically, spent the day at the junkyard and got absolutely nothing done. The one saving grace is that Ace found a factory rollup cargo cover for his XJ in good condition in the back of one of the XJs at the yard. Those aren't common, finding them intact is even less common, and they only charged $11 for it. e: I'm getting the itch to weld something. Problem is, I can't decide what... most likely either a winch mount in my rear bumper or perhaps a 2" receiver. This would be a much easier decision if I could do both, but they need to occupy the same real estate. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Jul 14, 2013 04:20
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kastein posted:e: I'm getting the itch to weld something. Problem is, I can't decide what... most likely either a winch mount in my rear bumper or perhaps a 2" receiver. This would be a much easier decision if I could do both, but they need to occupy the same real estate. Couldn't you make a winch mount that fits in the 2" reciever? Weld a piece of 2" heavy square tubing to a piece of plate and bolt the winch to the plate.
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Jul 14, 2013 14:08
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kastein posted:e: I'm getting the itch to weld something. I'll be back in MA to do my bumper soon enough.
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Jul 14, 2013 14:57
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iForge posted:Couldn't you make a winch mount that fits in the 2" reciever? Weld a piece of 2" heavy square tubing to a piece of plate and bolt the winch to the plate. I could, but the way I wheel (like a blind idiot) usually by the time I need to winch I have the bumper I'd need to drag toward something wedged securely into a ledge, so I'd need to find a way to teleport the winch receiver adapter into the hitch or something. So I'm trying to think of a way to fit the winch mount into the same real estate as the receiver... either that or mounting the winch offset to one side and just requiring the use of a snatch block every time I use it. I guess that wouldn't be the worst problem to have. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Jul 14, 2013 16:33
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