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I worry about my eyes, mostly. I have very light irises with huge pupils that are really prone to UV damage, I try to use brazing goggles whenever I'm doing extended torch stuff (at least it's not actual welding) but shade 5s are mostly too dark for small propane-air stuff so I get frustrated and ditch 'em a lot of the time. Need to rustle me up some shade 3 lenses.
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Jul 6, 2013 14:31
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  test firing
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Jul 7, 2013 09:49
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ReelBigLizard posted:
Congratulations on creating a portable hellmouth. Your first task is to create something with which to slay the foul demons you've unleashed upon the world.
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Jul 7, 2013 18:13
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As luck would have it a scrapper traded me a 25 pounder of propane for a pile of scrapmetal I had a year or two ago, and I just tore two of the world's least reusable 10" brake drums off a dana 44 I'm regearing for a friend. I think I know what I'm doing with these.
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Jul 7, 2013 18:19
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kastein posted:As luck would have it a scrapper traded me a 25 pounder of propane for a pile of scrapmetal I had a year or two ago, and I just tore two of the world's least reusable 10" brake drums off a dana 44 I'm regearing for a friend. I think I know what I'm doing with these. Brake drums are for solid fuel forges, not propane ones.. You could always research how to make charcoal and turn all that scrap lumber you have into fuel for a brake drum forge. I forget, do you have an anvil already?
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Jul 7, 2013 18:33
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I don't, yet, I have my eye out. I just got rid of most of the lumber but I'm sure I'll end up with more, I have another floor to gut. Charcoal making shouldn't be an issue. I completely forgot propane wouldn't need a brake drum to build the forge 
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Jul 7, 2013 18:37
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ductonius posted:Congratulations on creating a portable hellmouth. Your first task is to create something with which to slay the foul demons you've unleashed upon the world. Wait, what? Slay? poo poo, I've been working on binding them to my will. This might explain why the anvil has gone from a bright ring to a deep, reverberating chime that causes everyone's bones to ache and all of the forged items to come out covered in ancient, indecipherable cuniform. You loving blacksmiths, why isn't this mentioned in any of the brake drum forge howtos?!
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Jul 7, 2013 23:21
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ReelBigLizard posted:Wait, what? Slay? poo poo, I've been working on binding them to my will. This might explain why the anvil has gone from a bright ring to a deep, reverberating chime that causes everyone's bones to ache and all of the forged items to come out covered in ancient, indecipherable cuniform. It's kinda like a newbie initiation, you have to figure out what to do with the demons for yourself, just like we had to...
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Jul 8, 2013 00:06
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Doing a three day welding course at tafe this week to get some exposure to the trade, the base is only arc and oxy cutting/welding but the instructor has said he'd be more than happy to show me mig, tig and FCAW. Safe to say I'm pretty excited 
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Jul 8, 2013 01:44
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iForge posted:It's kinda like a newbie initiation, you have to figure out what to do with the demons for yourself, just like we had to... Oh, great. So what do I do now? I mean, it's working and all, can I just carry on with the demons THIS MEAT BAG IS CONTROLLED BY CROM NOW bound to the anvil or is it going to cause me trouble with my forge welds? I had enough trouble ALL MEAT BAGS WILL BE CONSUMED IN THE ETERNAL FIRE finding this anvil in the first place. Would calling a BLOOD OF THE MEAT BAGS WILL FEED CROM AND BRING THE END SOON priest be of any use?
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Jul 8, 2013 11:07
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Are the wee small O/A caddy tanks much good for actual light welding? 10 and 20 litre capacities I think, you know the ones, haven't gotten them filled yet. For the most part I'm just gonna use em for jeweller's-torch stuff so there's no risk of overdrawing from the tank there, but I'm almost certainly gonna want to do small steel welding with it too, putting legs and stock-supporting widgets on the helium-tank forge I wanna build, maybe break it out for twisting/bending ~1/4" steel bar in the meantime, stuff like that. I'd imagine it's pretty easy to hit the withdrawal rate cutoff doing anything substantial for any length of time. e: And on that note, what do I have to worry about if I wanted to cut the door/tuyere openings in the empty,-valve-open-full helium tank with the cutting torch? Cheapie thin-wall party-balloon type. Maybe pierce the burst disc to be double-sure it's totally empty? Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 16:25
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9ueMpACitn2vYg4xrNNj Oc7NBGsX2K8zwQMxw5MN TVbTAApBarboZs4Ft8yB FZbeLHBvdPbrToBHSLy6 dv1IOVKQnuYH8skYKhZu iCnmjRukszwGR9brJGfv T2VeHrgCsKskbKYTzd12 rne4IqEISiOqR5iVVWta sRwQtzLD2sV6g7M2NgtX 97Xobbks3E14rcMsxy3b Plasmafountain fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Feb 28, 2023 |
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Jul 9, 2013 17:38
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Do you mean raw materials? http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/MSC-storefinder.aspx?Region=UK&Map=UK Metal supermarket has some location in the UK.
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Jul 10, 2013 00:08
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Okay, I need some help on design stuff here. I've got to build a horizontal press that can press 36" soil samples out of their shelby tubes without destroying the sample. My boss wants it to be crank operated instead of hydraulic, which means I need a long rear end ram arm. The question is, what is the best way to go about this? I could plan out a hydraulic one in a week, it's just a logsplitter, and easy to find a ram of the right length. Maybe I should price out a custom ram VS a hydraulic cylinder with 36-40" of travel and convince him to go hydraulic.
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Jul 11, 2013 15:04
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How much pressure does it need to exert? You could probably grind gear rack teeth into the side of the ram and use either a spur or worm gear and a crank to add pressure, with the right gearing it would probably work quite nicely hand-cranked.
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Jul 11, 2013 15:33
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Random Number posted:Okay, I need some help on design stuff here. I've got to build a horizontal press that can press 36" soil samples out of their shelby tubes without destroying the sample. My boss wants it to be crank operated instead of hydraulic, which means I need a long rear end ram arm. The question is, what is the best way to go about this? I could plan out a hydraulic one in a week, it's just a logsplitter, and easy to find a ram of the right length. Maybe I should price out a custom ram VS a hydraulic cylinder with 36-40" of travel and convince him to go hydraulic. What about a ratcheting design? You could probably use one of those tall ratchet jacks that off road guys keep strapped to their jeeps with a bracket to hold the tube and a ram to push it out.
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Jul 11, 2013 15:34
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The problem is, a 36" stroke hydraulic ram off an old log splitter is way easier to find, and grinding those teeth in is impossible in the shop I have to work in. I could cut them on a horizontal mill I guess, but that's a week of shop time right there, not to mention welding the frame and such. It should only need at max 500 PSI, It's just dirt in a thin-walled tube. E: He's looking at <$500 for the whole project in materials I think. Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 15:42
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What diameter tube? iForge's idea is probably a good one too, those jacks are incredibly cheap. I have one in my truck, I bought it used off craigslist for $30. http://www.harborfreight.com/42-inch-3-1-2-half-ton-farm-jack-6530.html
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Jul 11, 2013 15:52
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kastein posted:What diameter tube? iForge's idea is probably a good one too, those jacks are incredibly cheap. I have one in my truck, I bought it used off craigslist for $30. http://www.harborfreight.com/42-inch-3-1-2-half-ton-farm-jack-6530.html 3" ID with like, .050" wall. E: The picture is kind of bad, That's a ratcheting jack right. So either one of the sides of that post has gear teeth or it uses the holes to increment? Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 17:11
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Yeah, it ratchets up and down the holes. They get sketchy if used badly on a truck or not well maintained but neither of those should be an issue for your purposes. I've jacked up the front of a diesel fullsize pickup with one before, it wasn't easy but worked. Googling says around 2.5 tons on the front axle - and this one had a plow frame added to that.
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Jul 11, 2013 17:35
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What about a piece of threaded rod with a big handwheel or crank on a nut? You could even make some sort of half-nut mechanism to make it quick release.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:48
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One Legged Ninja posted:What about a piece of threaded rod with a big handwheel or crank on a nut? You could even make some sort of half-nut mechanism to make it quick release. Motherfucker. I love you so much right now you don't even know, that's so much simpler than a hydraulic ram or ratchet press. Checking the price on threaded rods now. E: This is why you talk to people before making a decision and sticking with it. God drat you're brilliant.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:07
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That might work but it'll be hinky as gently caress if you use hardware store materials. Make sure to use really big fat threaded rod (I'd go at least 1", just wild rear end guessing) and preferably you'd use a leadscrew or ACME threaded rod rather than regular standard threads. If you do that, it should work. Oh, and make the "wrench" that turns the rod or nut two-handed because that will reduce the side loading of the rod while doubling the torque one person can comfortably apply to it. Push one handle with one hand, pull the other with the other.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:23
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kastein posted:That might work but it'll be hinky as gently caress if you use hardware store materials. Make sure to use really big fat threaded rod (I'd go at least 1", just wild rear end guessing) and preferably you'd use a leadscrew or ACME threaded rod rather than regular standard threads. If you do that, it should work. Yeah, I'm looking at ACME 1"-10 but thinking of doing less with some simple gearing. I'll just thread up some pseudo thrust bearings for it and weld everything in a track. I've got access to a pretty good machine shop. It's not a hard project, just trying to decide what sort of prime mover to use and this seems simplest. E: Just weld an old ship's wheel style arbor press wheel to the end of the threaded rod 
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Jul 12, 2013 03:30
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Random Number posted:E: Just weld an old ship's wheel style arbor press wheel to the end of the threaded rod Now you have to.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:47
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Random Number posted:Okay, I need some help on design stuff here. I've got to build a horizontal press that can press 36" soil samples out of their shelby tubes without destroying the sample. My boss wants it to be crank operated instead of hydraulic, which means I need a long rear end ram arm. The question is, what is the best way to go about this? I could plan out a hydraulic one in a week, it's just a logsplitter, and easy to find a ram of the right length. Maybe I should price out a custom ram VS a hydraulic cylinder with 36-40" of travel and convince him to go hydraulic. Have you considered a rack and pinion setup? They are extremely easy to setup and very effective. And if your budget is really tight you can probably snag a setup off a car in a junkyard.
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Jul 12, 2013 11:17
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Well, as Random Number had some luck, I'll present you guys with my problem: I'm not having much luck finding a good hardwood log to mount my anvil on. I've been thinking about different ways to do it and searching on various forums, I've narrowed the options to: Getting a small oil drum, filling the bottom with cement and packing the anvil into gravel dust in the top few inches. Getting a reclaimed oak railway sleeper (2600 x 250 x 150mm), cutting it into six equal parts about 430mm long, and bolting them all together with chunky threaded rod, maybe M12 making a cube about 430 x 500 x 450mm. I'm liking this idea best right now. Edit: a bit like this:  Any other ideas? I can't find an anvil stand locally and shipping would be ridiculous. The local tree surgeons do get big hardwood logs but they know the price of oak and it wont be cheap. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Jul 12, 2013 |
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Jul 12, 2013 13:18
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ReelBigLizard posted:Getting a reclaimed oak railway sleeper (2600 x 250 x 150mm), cutting it into six equal parts about 430mm long, and bolting them all together with chunky threaded rod, maybe M12 making a cube about 430 x 500 x 450mm. I'm liking this idea best right now. Babby's first anvil stand was made the same way. I cut 2x12 boards, screwed them all together to form one solid mass, then took a chainsaw to it to get a nice flat top and bottom. It was all I had and worked really well until I found a stump.
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Jul 12, 2013 14:51
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Wish you were in my area instead of on an island across the pond, I have access to a friend's woodlot that got hit by a tornado and can get you a 2 foot oak round no problem. Actually, if any mass goons need an anvil stand, hit me up via PM or email this username @W1KAS.net. I can cut one whenever.
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Jul 12, 2013 15:37
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ReelBigLizard posted:I'm not having much luck finding a good hardwood log to mount my anvil on. The last stump I got I happened upon by accident. I was driving down a road and saw a fallen tree that hadn't been chopped up yet, and spoke with the owner. Most of the trees I see that are cut down are already chopped up in sizes too small for a stump, thus why I suggest contacting a tree guy before he cuts one down.
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Jul 12, 2013 18:11
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ReelBigLizard posted:Well, as Random Number had some luck, I'll present you guys with my problem: In my old job we had our anvil set in half an oil barrel that was filled with sand, worked really well.
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Jul 13, 2013 11:54
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I'm looking to buy a used AC/DC stick welder. Am I better off going with a newer (model currently available) Lincoln 225/125 or an older Miller thunderbolt, the kind with the crank handle on top? (see pic) From what I have read the Miller has better adjustment and probably goes up to 150 dc amps, but in the past I have always used Lincolns and they seemed to work fine.
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Jul 14, 2013 19:06
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Honestly, you can't go wrong either way. They have a different feeling arc, but neither is really better. My only issue with the Thunderbolts is that I tend to pile a lot of crap on top, and it gets in the way 
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Jul 14, 2013 19:23
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Hypnolobster posted:Honestly, you can't go wrong either way. They have a different feeling arc, but neither is really better. My only issue with the Thunderbolts is that I tend to pile a lot of crap on top, and it gets in the way Yeah, anyone who builds a welder with a flat top should really just be decent about it and stamp in a ridge around the edges so the poo poo you inevitably pile on top at least will stay there.
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Jul 14, 2013 19:38
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I'd get the older thunderbolt vs the 225.
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Jul 15, 2013 01:46
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Makin' rap chains for shows I'm goin to is my new poo poo, it would seem??? This one was for Killer Mike a coupla nights back. Brass with asphalt for the backing. This is the kinda thing that's just screaming for enameling but you work with what you have v  v
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Jul 15, 2013 15:04
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I've only welded with my friend's massive dumpster-find BOC welder. He's been welding for a long time and says a decent older unit is usually built better and arcs "smoother". Whether that's the welder equivalent of "vinyl just sounds warmer man" I don't know but the old BOC certainly does the job and it's probably 30+ years old. Edit: forgot what I actually came to post here. Found a local supplier for railway sleepers but they want £26 per sleeper and £10 to deliver unless I'm spending more than £100. Fuckers. The other option I have is a pile of old scaffolding boards, at least they will be easier to cut and drill. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 15:04
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ReelBigLizard posted:Edit: forgot what I actually came to post here. Found a local supplier for railway sleepers but they want £26 per sleeper and £10 to deliver unless I'm spending more than £100. Fuckers. The other option I have is a pile of old scaffolding boards, at least they will be easier to cut and drill. Landscape gardeners have ruined railway sleeper prices, £26 sounds about right, however the construction crash has flooded the old scaffolding board market so they can be had for 2-3 quid each here
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Jul 15, 2013 16:13
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9ueMpACitn2vYg4xrNNj Oc7NBGsX2K8zwQMxw5MN TVbTAApBarboZs4Ft8yB FZbeLHBvdPbrToBHSLy6 dv1IOVKQnuYH8skYKhZu iCnmjRukszwGR9brJGfv T2VeHrgCsKskbKYTzd12 rne4IqEISiOqR5iVVWta sRwQtzLD2sV6g7M2NgtX 97Xobbks3E14rcMsxy3b Plasmafountain fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Feb 28, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2013 10:04
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| # ? May 25, 2024 08:34 |
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Ahahaha. I live here. This is the extent of local rail.
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Jul 16, 2013 13:11
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