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Morgenthau posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=tGA_xKm95zg If this show gets us HGUCs of the Sumo and Zanscare suits, even if it's worse than AGE it'll be worth it.
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Jul 3, 2013 23:25
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Gundam Guy is reporting the rumor that the GP-02 might be an upcoming RG. I actually canceled both my GP-01 orders because of my backlog and I want to see some reviews on them first, but a GP-02 would make me really really excited.
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Jul 4, 2013 10:30
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So took the dive and got the VF-25S Armored Messiah kit (though not 100% willingly due to AmiAmi's "no cancelling pre-orders" policy), and have a quick question I'm pretty sure no one will actually answer: The decal sheets. For some reason there's two of them here (blue and green), and I while I'm pretty sure that one of them is wet-apply (which I have absolutely no experience with and will therefore avoid), I have no idea what the other one is. So... are these dry-apply or regular decals, and which one is which? E: God, I can't even find a way to get these drat things off the sheet to check. MGs have spoiled me too much. 404GoonNotFound fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jul 5, 2013 |
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Jul 5, 2013 00:41
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Rub-on sheets are very obvious; they're transparent, and have wax paper underneath. The green sheet you're looking at is probably just normal stickers. Waterslides, on the other hand, are blue.
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Jul 5, 2013 01:45
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Midjack posted:tokyo-hunter appears to be out of business; he hadn't updated the site for a couple of months and now it's "undergoing maintenance" for almost a month so safe to say he's probably not coming back. Update: they are gone for good. Earlier in the year the original owner fell out with his partner and the new guy couldn't get stuff like the first guy could so they imploded pretty quickly.
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Jul 8, 2013 01:12
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 To celebrate getting a filter mask, I finally got around to topcoating my Turn A.  Of course I first had to re-line the whole drat thing.  And apparently the ink ran overnight or something because a couple spots have smudges.  Is there any way to fix this, or is it too late now that I've topcoated?
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Jul 8, 2013 01:43
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What did you panel-line it with? I've never had that happen to me before. Maybe you could try lightly sanding off the topcoat where the smudges are?
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Jul 8, 2013 01:49
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A fine point gundam marker, nothing fancy. I'm actually thinking the problem's that I didn't rub off the excess entirely last night. Moral of the story is to check your pieces before you spray.  EDIT: There's a duel on my top shelf.  And I think I know who's going to win. Agh this camera angle did not work out. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 01:54
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BlitzBlast posted:
I went out and bought a few desk-lamps, some 100 watt bulbs, and a big fuckoff outdoor spotlight bulb and mashed everything together. Now I can light my scenes so brightly I can push my camera to F/8 and above which makes the foreground and background in focus like your eyes would see these things if you were standing there in real life.
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Jul 8, 2013 02:21
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That reminds me that I have to finish my MG ZZ Gundam. God this is such an archaic MG... Edit: China Gunpla -1/144 Deep Striker Ex-S has been announced! 
TaurusOxford fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 02:38
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 Screw the other accessories, the cow is the best part of the kit.
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Jul 10, 2013 01:08
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BlitzBlast posted:
Good to see your attempt at 'painting' the cow went about as well as mine did. I don't know who paints those pilot statues, but whoever does must do it under a microscope or something. Also, I'm incredibly jealous that you got the green forehead decal into place properly. That drat thing would just not go in for me. 
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Jul 10, 2013 05:39
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Nah, I couldn't do it either. What you see there is paint. You can't see it in the picture, but there are actually scratch marks all around the symbol. Since I couldn't get the decal in (it's basically impossible to get dry applies into crevasses), I tried applying both of them to the area around and then scraping it in. It kind of worked for a while, but it was really loose and eventually fell out. In other news, I've decided on the 00 Raiser as my final MG before I start working on painting all the Seed vRMs. Anybody have any experience with it?
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Jul 10, 2013 07:40
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TaurusOxford posted:That reminds me that I have to finish my MG ZZ Gundam. God this is such an archaic MG... Dear God... I really hope it's "reasonably" priced. It is such a cool design but the rarity of the GFF makes it insanely expensive.
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Jul 10, 2013 10:05
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Vahtooch posted:Dear God... I really hope it's "reasonably" priced. It is such a cool design but the rarity of the GFF makes it insanely expensive. Man, the Deep Striker is based around a robot whose name is literally pronounced "excess." Reasonable is kind of out of the question. Not that I wouldn't mind more official Sentinel releases. Come on, Bandai. MG Ex-S 2.0. You can even call it a Ver. Ka for all I care.
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Jul 10, 2013 17:38
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Mecha Gojira posted:Man, the Deep Striker is based around a robot whose name is literally pronounced "excess." Reasonable is kind of out of the question. To be honest, I'd be really happy if they started making kits of stuff from Advance of Zeta. Especially the Hazel Custom and the Woundwort. 
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Jul 10, 2013 17:55
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I'll take a TR-5. gently caress, I'll take a regular Gaplant and just give it a better color scheme. Just give me a big-rear end Gaplant.
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Jul 10, 2013 18:24
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S-Alpha posted:To be honest, I'd be really happy if they started making kits of stuff from Advance of Zeta. Especially the Hazel Custom and the Woundwort. I'd buy so many of those just for the names.
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Jul 10, 2013 18:31
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Mecha Gojira posted:Man, the Deep Striker is based around a robot whose name is literally pronounced "excess." Reasonable is kind of out of the question. Not trying to crush your dreams or anything (cause I of all people in this thread have no right to), but what good would a 2.0 Ex-S even serve? I can't see that kit becoming well articulated or even capable of standing up on its own no matter how advanced MG technology gets. It's not like Ex-S has bad proportions or looks old even. I'm just curious as to what you would expect from a 2.0. BlitzBlast posted:In other news, I've decided on the 00 Raiser as my final MG before I start working on painting all the Seed vRMs. Anybody have any experience with it? 00 Raiser is probably one of the best engineered kits I have ever made. I've seen reviews on the PG 00 Raiser and I can tell from those that the MG is superior to the PG.
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Jul 10, 2013 18:42
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BlitzBlast posted:
I'm just about finished painting mine. The kit's really good. It's a solid build, good articulation, and a crapload of gimmicks. The only real problem I had with it is that it can't really hold the gigantic gn sword 3 beam with it's arm straight out or sideways. Also it has trouble holding the gn swords II when their combined. If you want any crazy poses you're going to need an action base. It's not really the fault of the kit, but if you have the raiser on, it's going to become really back heavy no matter what they did. Monaghan fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jul 10, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 19:13
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TaurusOxford posted:Not trying to crush your dreams or anything (cause I of all people in this thread have no right to), but what good would a 2.0 Ex-S even serve? I can't see that kit becoming well articulated or even capable of standing up on its own no matter how advanced MG technology gets. It's not like Ex-S has bad proportions or looks old even. I'm just curious as to what you would expect from a 2.0. A joke. Trust me, I know how awful the design is in general for... well anything that has to support its weight. I was one of the idiots who bought it in the Fix Figuration line, after all. Then again, it was also the GFF line...
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Jul 10, 2013 19:31
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TaurusOxford posted:It's not like Ex-S has bad proportions It does, actually. I'd been looking forward to an MG S-Gundam for years but I just hate the looks of the thing. They'll never redo it, though.
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Jul 10, 2013 23:28
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As far as ridiculous clusterfuck kits go, I'd rather see a MG Penelope instead of Ex-S 2.0. I want to see someone try and make a decent kit out of that abomination.
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Jul 11, 2013 07:57
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Mecha Gojira posted:Man, the Deep Striker is based around a robot whose name is literally pronounced "excess." Reasonable is kind of out of the question. I meant reasonable in terms of what it is. So over $100 would probably be ok. Not like 2-300 that some of these weird kits end up at
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Jul 11, 2013 09:01
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BlitzBlast posted:As far as ridiculous clusterfuck kits go, I'd rather see a MG Penelope instead of Ex-S 2.0. I want to see someone try and make a decent kit out of that abomination. I actually rather like the Penelope despite (maybe even because of) its excesses. Even if they couldn't do the whole hog, I'd like to get the Odysseus at the very least. I really like that design, simple, but with some cool additions.
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Jul 11, 2013 13:30
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So I was doing some panel lining on my HGUC Hammrabi and the ball joint on his right leg just snapped right the hell off. The whole kit is done, painted, and assembled so I was very dismayed. Is there any way to fix this or am I just totally hosed?
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Jul 13, 2013 07:59
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Glue it back on. Just be thorough about wiping off the excess, and it should be fine.
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Jul 13, 2013 08:01
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Just super glue it? It's pretty flush off the ball. I would like it to still be pliable enough to pose it. Hammrabi is one of my favorite suits so it's really bumming me out.
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Jul 13, 2013 08:24
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Well how exactly did the ball joint break? Unless it was like, right there, where the ball joint connects to the torso, I can't see glue affecting mobility much. And even if it was it still wouldn't be a problem as long as you make sure to not glue the ball to the torso. Super glue works fine when you want to fix something you broke, but if you don't want to spend a while holding it in place you should probably pick up plastic cement. If you are fine with that, however, just glue the broken piece together, push them together, wipe off the stuff that oozes out (be really careful about this, dried superglue stands out a lot), then hold it in place for as long as the glue says to.
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Jul 13, 2013 09:39
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If it's plastic on plastic use some plastic cement since it basically melts the plastic together, should still function, just be careful with it. Also you could do a metal rod and CA glue like we mentioned for that guy's Tallgeese. Really depends on how it broke.
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Jul 13, 2013 10:24
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 Here is the break I had. It's pretty severe.
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Jul 13, 2013 17:35
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Depending on the size, you could pin it.
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Jul 13, 2013 23:51
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If I'm looking at that picture right, the part that snapped off is the connection between the ball joint and the waist. The remains of the connection are even still there, though it's somewhat hard to tell since your camera doesn't focus on it. So yes, you can glue it. Put glue/plastic cement on the parts that broke, press them together, hold in place, wipe off excess, etc. There shouldn't be any mobility issues (the articulation for the leg looks to be based on the ball joint, not the part that broke) unless you use way too much glue and, I don't know, straight up glue the thigh to the torso. Alternatively, if you really paranoid about the glue, drill a small hole into the part on the waist and the ball joint. Then shove in an appropriate size brass rod (with glue on both edges so it sticks) and hold in place. Voila, exact same result.
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Jul 14, 2013 01:31
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Faltion posted:(wont a 1/144 Victory be tiny?)
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Jul 14, 2013 03:59
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 http://imgur.com/YJFv5YZ,2lSuAB5 FINALLY done. I hated building this thing. Finicky, WAY too much dependence on polycaps, and gently caress trying to make him hold his weapons. Time to work on something enjoyable again.
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Jul 14, 2013 06:27
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Oh GOD those proportions. The bare poly elbows are a nice touch, too.
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Jul 14, 2013 09:36
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When I was building the FA ZZ, I was struck by how it was very much like building a HG. I'm pretty sure there isn't even an inner frame. Still desperately praying for a ZZ 2.0. There's still the November and December releases, right? It could happen. 
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Jul 14, 2013 12:21
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BlitzBlast posted:When I was building the FA ZZ, I was struck by how it was very much like building a HG. I'm pretty sure there isn't even an inner frame. It'd be nice to get a RG ZZ of some kind, and since they seem to just be cherry picking suits from whatever series they want for that line at the moment I wouldn't say its crazy unlikely to happen. ZZ came out in 1986 so worst comes to worst, we might get a special anniversary edition ZZ MG 3.0 in 2016! Hang in there!
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Jul 14, 2013 20:15
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2013 is Victory Gundam's 20th anniversary, and we sure as hell haven't gotten a MG. Hell we're not even getting the V2's HG until next year. Though if the big christmas release turns out to be the V2 AB I think I might explode from sheer joy.
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Jul 14, 2013 22:38
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| # ? May 24, 2024 22:55 |
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Who wants to see what I've been doing all weekend? This is the first 'real' major paintjob I've done after a couple practice jobs (ask me about my poor HG GP01), and I'm pretty happy with it. I did learn that if you're going to sand away sprue nubs, use fine grit, or the scratches will show through the paint. I'll probably go back to x-acto knife trimming in the future; it just seems to work better for me.  So far I've been using acrylic for the easy clean-up and lack of fumes which lets me paint inside, but I don't care for how easily it scratches. Would more coats solve this issue or is it just something I have to accept and plan for? I've only been using one or two coats to try and retain posability, but I could change that easily enough. What kind of paint do people here use? I've been watching a number of this guy's vids; he uses enamel pretty exclusively and gets fantastic results, but I think that's more due to his experience than anything else.
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Jul 14, 2013 23:09
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