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Motronic posted:Is there any reason you aren't just bringing the entire wall out the extra 3/4" with furring strips or similar? I have no idea what this means.
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Jul 7, 2013 01:23
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Motronic's reply wasn't directed to you, the. As for the patch, just apply some joint compound, same as if you were filling a nail hole or dent. That's a guide for filling a large hole.
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Jul 7, 2013 01:46
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Motronic posted:Is there any reason you aren't just bringing the entire wall out the extra 3/4" with furring strips or similar (or is that a 2x I'm looking at..I can't really get a scale)? You're close- its about 7/8". I could bring it out more but I'm only replacing the wall up to the height I want to tile to - 52". If I did this I'd need to pull off the rest of the drywall up to the ceiling and redo it. Another thought I had though was keeping the bottom out 7/8" and using shims to taper it down to be flush with the wall, but if it turned out looking bad it would be an expensive mistake to fix. edit: the pipe doesn't actually stick out that far, just the frame. The pipe is less. ohjoshdarnit fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Jul 7, 2013 |
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Jul 7, 2013 01:58
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the posted:I'm trying to wall mount a TV. I am going to run the cords through the wall. There was a blank faceplate near the floor, so I figured I'd use that. I unscrewed the faceplate to see this: You want to run wire through this junction box, up the wall to your TV? It is probably nailed to the stud. You could drill holes anywhere (except the stud side) in there to run wire through. Also, you could get a jumbo (oversized) faceplate that may cover that issue at the top right.
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Jul 7, 2013 02:14
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Motronic posted:So by "appears to just rinse" do yo mean there is still soap in the dispenser cups on the door? Unfortunately there is no error code being displayed on the dishwasher. That would make things a lot easier if it was. We put these little soap packets into the dispenser cup, and at the end of the cycle, said packets are gone. But the dishes still appear to be filthy. I will go run another load right now and report back in an hour or two.  Edit: I actually opened the dishwasher for the first time in two weeks. There is about a centimeter of standing water on the bottom of the dishwasher. Suffice to say it is not the most pleasant smelling thing in the world. At least its a clue as to what is wrong with the dishwasher, I think.
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Jul 7, 2013 03:02
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Not necessarily. It's only a drain issue if you run a load and water is still there. Some washers don't drain if you stop them halfway through a cycle.
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Jul 7, 2013 03:55
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ohjoshdarnit posted:You're close- its about 7/8". I could bring it out more but I'm only replacing the wall up to the height I want to tile to - 52". If I did this I'd need to pull off the rest of the drywall up to the ceiling and redo it. Sounds like a job for 1/4 and 5/8 pieces of drywall (or 1/4 strips with 5/8 on top) to make up the difference to the ceiling. That leaves you with one ceiling joint and whatever else on the wall. I may be fundamentally misunderstanding this because I haven't seen the overall picture, but in general I would always try to avoid hinky poo poo on the walls, and especially when it ends up making ledges that end up being dirt (and even worse in a bathroom...water) magnets.
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Jul 7, 2013 04:04
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PainterofCrap posted:You want to run wire through this junction box, up the wall to your TV? After about an hour of trying, I just ripped it the gently caress out. Turns out it was nailed on the top and bottom to the stud as well as glued to the insulation. Anyway, it's done: 
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Jul 7, 2013 05:00
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Motronic posted:Sounds like a job for 1/4 and 5/8 pieces of drywall (or 1/4 strips with 5/8 on top) to make up the difference to the ceiling. That leaves you with one ceiling joint and whatever else on the wall. Good idea, thanks.. I didn't think of varying the thicknesses of the wallboard. That may work.
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Jul 7, 2013 06:51
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Dietrich posted:I have hollow vinyl fence posts which I am trying to remove. I'm worried that I'll break the post before the concrete gives if I try to pull it up without digging first, which I would like to try to avoid. Any one have experience with removing this kind of fence post that can give me some pointers? Unless there's a metal post in there somewhere, you'll break the vinyl anyway. Your best bet is to rig a device that pulls STRAIGHT UP, and figure out how to get a decent bolt sunk into the concrete. My device was a tractor rim with rope on it. Get the rim right up against the post with the rope down at the base, then your truck can pull straight ahead, but the rim makes the pull go straight up. The first one we did, we used chain, and that just collapsed the post before the concrete even moved. The second one was with the rope, and that mangled the hell out of the post, but the concrete was loose enough to shift then. The rest of them, we just hit it with the truck to knock the post off, then sunk a 1/2" drop-in anchor and used an eye bolt. Vinyl is pretty weak stuff.
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Jul 7, 2013 15:57
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ohjoshdarnit posted:Good idea, thanks.. I didn't think of varying the thicknesses of the wallboard. That may work. And reading this the next day I'm just making sure you know I didn't mean drywall and meant green board or similar. But you're far enough into this that it looks like you know what's up, and also based on your phrasing in the reply.
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Jul 7, 2013 16:16
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:My device was a tractor rim with rope on it. Get the rim right up against the post with the rope down at the base, then your truck can pull straight ahead, but the rim makes the pull go straight up. This is brilliant.
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Jul 7, 2013 18:15
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Oxford Comma posted:Unfortunately there is no error code being displayed on the dishwasher. That would make things a lot easier if it was. It sounds like the washer is completing its cycle, but it's just not performing like it used to. When you say that the dishes still appear to be filthy, I'm guessing you mean there's still food stuck to them, rather than there being a residue. If it's an issue with residue, then chances are you have a hard water problem. If you have a softener, check that and make sure it's working. Hard water not only leaves stains, but soap scum as well, and it doesn't allow for a very good lather. All of these are bad for dish washing. If it's food still on the dishes, then based on what you've mentioned, I'd guess it's either clogged nozzles or perhaps the armature failing. Run a cycle with nothing in it but some baking soda and vinegar. That will help with the smell and hopefully clean it out. Hard water can also cause the nozzles to become clogged, just like a shower head. After the cycle is over, look at the sprayer nozzles and see if they look clear. If that doesn't work, it may be that the sprayer is putting out enough water, but isn't spinning during the cycle. You'd probably be able to hear that if it wasn't working, but it sounds like a possibility.
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Jul 8, 2013 19:09
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I had a thread in A/T but a mod directed me here instead, so here's my question just as it was posted before: I've always heard open your crawl space vents in the summer, close them in the winter. Someone was working on the house the other day, though, and they said that the new thing was to ALWAYS leave them closed, regardless of the season- and that some new homes are built without vents at all. After Googling a bit, I've seen people saying to always leave them open, always leave them closed, or open or close based on the season like I've always heard. Which is it, Goons? Does it depend on your area at all? I can imagine that a higher humidity area would have different crawl space venting rules than a dryer area. I'm in central NC, so it's super humid in the summer.
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Jul 10, 2013 23:12
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TShields posted:I had a thread in A/T but a mod directed me here instead, so here's my question just as it was posted before: I'm in Central SC and our house has a vented crawlspace which I leave open all the time. I only close and lock the door to the crawlspace to keep out unwanted visitors too large to crawl in through the vents. Edit for clarification: The vents are always open as they are slotted and screened to keep anything larger than an ant from getting in. The only other way into the crawlspace is through the access door which stays padlocked unless I'm in the crawlspace. pseudonordic fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 23:21
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pseudonordic posted:I'm in Central SC and our house has a vented crawlspace which I leave open all the time. I only close and lock the door to the crawlspace to keep out unwanted visitors too large to crawl in through the vents. That has always been my interpretation of crawlspaces. If you leave your crawlspace open, animals view it as either a shady home... or a final resting place. You will probably discover the latter by smelling it upstairs or walking past the opening.
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Jul 11, 2013 17:14
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I'm not talking about opening the wooden door, I'm talking about the little vents on the side. They've got a mesh over them, they should be fine.
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Jul 11, 2013 17:43
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My crawlspace has wire mesh vents at each corner of the house, and it's never occurred to me that opening or closing them seasonally would be necessary. Much like you guys I just leave them unrestricted all year, and just use the hatch as needed. pseudonordic, are the vermin in SC large enough to move that cover themselves and get in? A padlock seems like overkill to me.
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Jul 11, 2013 19:05
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Idiotically, I tried cleaning out an aluminum water bottle with steel wool and despite my best efforts to wash it out there remains a few flecks of the stuff that would be very harmful if swallowed. What's the best way to clean the everloving poo poo out of a container to assure no traces of anything are left behind?
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Jul 11, 2013 19:11
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stubblyhead posted:My crawlspace has wire mesh vents at each corner of the house, and it's never occurred to me that opening or closing them seasonally would be necessary. Much like you guys I just leave them unrestricted all year, and just use the hatch as needed. pseudonordic, are the vermin in SC large enough to move that cover themselves and get in? A padlock seems like overkill to me. The door swings outward but has enough give in it that a raccoon or opossum could push its way in if it wanted. I mostly keep it locked to keep the ladders I store under there safe and to keep people from getting under my house as I live in a shady neighborhood. 
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Jul 11, 2013 20:18
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Killing Flies posted:It sounds like the washer is completing its cycle, but it's just not performing like it used to. When you say that the dishes still appear to be filthy, I'm guessing you mean there's still food stuck to them, rather than there being a residue. If it's an issue with residue, then chances are you have a hard water problem. If you have a softener, check that and make sure it's working. Hard water not only leaves stains, but soap scum as well, and it doesn't allow for a very good lather. All of these are bad for dish washing. I will try that tomorrow. I'm running another cycle right now just to see what is going on with it. I know that before I ran said cycle, there was an inch of water in the bottom. Water that is starting to smell...bad. 
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Jul 12, 2013 00:57
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I have a sofa with microfiber couch cushion covers. A few weeks ago my cat's access to his liter box got closed while I was away for the day, and he peed and pooped on a blanket that was on the couch, and some got onto the couch. I've used the warranty cleaning that I bought with the couch, I waited two weeks for their cleaner to arrive, only to learn that the warranty that covers "anything that could happen to furniture" doesn't cover odor. Great. I bought some Nature's Miracle off the recommendation of a pet store employee, sprayed the hell out of my couch, and now it doesn't smell like cat pee and poop, but it does smell like an animal shelter now. Would it be safe to put the cover through the washing machine on a gentle cycle to try to remove the smell of the cleaner? Here is the link with the most information I can find about the couch. I'm open to any other suggestions too. It's been three weeks since the incident and at this point, I really miss sitting on my couch.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:53
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TShields posted:I had a thread in A/T but a mod directed me here instead, so here's my question just as it was posted before: Sup, fellow NC goon. Summer is warmer and wetter so opening the vents allows moisture to escape. But crawlspaces are rarely well insulated or sealed so in winter you close the vents to keep drafts from making your floor cold. Some modern houses are built with sealed and sometimes conditioned crawlspaces, their vents would always be closed if they even have them. If you have a regular old crawlspace, open the vents in summer and close them in the winter.
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Jul 12, 2013 04:22
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Wildtortilla posted:I have a sofa with microfiber couch cushion covers. A few weeks ago my cat's access to his liter box got closed while I was away for the day, and he peed and pooped on a blanket that was on the couch, and some got onto the couch. I've used the warranty cleaning that I bought with the couch, I waited two weeks for their cleaner to arrive, only to learn that the warranty that covers "anything that could happen to furniture" doesn't cover odor. Great. I can't specifically speak for your exact microfiber, but _in general_ most microfiber is machine washable-- it's what I chose for my couch pillows as well knowing that catte would one day do something I needed to wash. I've washed them a few times now with no ill-effects. Also, air dry only-- some microfibers can shrink and that will mess up the fabric. Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Jul 12, 2013 |
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Jul 12, 2013 16:23
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wormil posted:Sup, fellow NC goon. Summer is warmer and wetter so opening the vents allows moisture to escape. But crawlspaces are rarely well insulated or sealed so in winter you close the vents to keep drafts from making your floor cold. Some modern houses are built with sealed and sometimes conditioned crawlspaces, their vents would always be closed if they even have them. If you have a regular old crawlspace, open the vents in summer and close them in the winter. See, that's the rationale I always heard, but this guy was saying the heat would travel through the vents and make things that condensate (like the A/C he was working on) even wetter, so it keeps the area under your house even more damp than it already is, so you should leave them closed to keep the heat out. That's what confused me. Maybe he was just a crazy old man.
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Jul 12, 2013 16:40
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TShields posted:See, that's the rationale I always heard, but this guy was saying the heat would travel through the vents and make things that condensate (like the A/C he was working on) even wetter, so it keeps the area under your house even more damp than it already is, so you should leave them closed to keep the heat out. That's what confused me. Maybe he was just a crazy old man. I suppose if you have a very dry crawlspace and uninsulated ducting then he could be right.
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Jul 12, 2013 17:58
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I don't know how exactly they work, but my crawlspace vents open and close themselves automagically based upon the outside temperature.
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Jul 13, 2013 19:11
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What's that website with the HUGE selection of hardware and materials? It layout is very basic and it has an exhaustive list of pretty much every imaginable raw material and I forgot to bookmark it last time I saw it because I am terrible. Edit: \/\/ YEP! http://www.mcmaster.com/ Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jul 14, 2013 |
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Jul 14, 2013 21:07
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Corla Plankun posted:What's that website with the HUGE selection of hardware and materials? It layout is very basic and it has an exhaustive list of pretty much every imaginable raw material and I forgot to bookmark it last time I saw it because I am terrible. McMaster-Carr?
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Jul 14, 2013 21:45
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Corla Plankun posted:What's that website with the HUGE selection of hardware and materials? It layout is very basic and it has an exhaustive list of pretty much every imaginable raw material and I forgot to bookmark it last time I saw it because I am terrible. Grainger is pretty good too.
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Jul 14, 2013 23:58
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Not sure if this is the right place or not, but here goes. The house was built in 1961 and it seems the indoor outlets get more power to them than the outdoor outlets. Further, it looks like the outdoor outlets were installed years after the house was built. Not a thing in this place is up to code because its all grandfathered in (no ground wiring, etc). Anyways, is there a way to verify if there is a difference in output between interior/exterior outlets? At my disposal is a 10 dollar multimeter. Reason I'm asking is because I roast my own coffee and I'm trying to do it outside so it doesn't smoke the house out and create a mess. However, the two times I've tried it outside, it takes way longer to roast. Also, I'm in houston, so it's not like I'm in a heated house in North Dakota and bring my roaster outside in the middle of February which would account for the discrepancy.
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Jul 15, 2013 02:38
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Your roaster will draw as much current as it needs, if the breaker on that circuit can't supply that it'll trip so I'd check voltage on each of the outlets first.
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Jul 15, 2013 11:04
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I'm going to be installing a couple of exterior surveillance cameras. I've found the best route to run the wiring, which will allow the wire entrance to be protected under a deck. What kind of weather proofing do I need to do? It would be a 3/4" hole straight through vinyl siding and into the interior. I was thinking about a rubber wire grommet and caulk to seal it back up, but I feel there has to be a specific protocol for this sort of thing.
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Jul 15, 2013 18:16
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Dragyn posted:I'm going to be installing a couple of exterior surveillance cameras. I've found the best route to run the wiring, which will allow the wire entrance to be protected under a deck. What kind of weather proofing do I need to do? Buy a vinyl siding zip tool from Home Depot.  Unzip the siding at a seam. Drill a hole into the wooden wall underneath. Fish your wire through that hole and apply silicone caulk around it. Enlarge one of the vent holes on the underside of the vinyl siding and run your wire out through that. Pop the siding closed. It'll look way nicer than drilling on the face of the siding. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 18:40
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eddiewalker posted:Buy a vinyl siding zip tool from Home Depot. That's great help. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
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Jul 15, 2013 18:47
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Question about home HVAC: we have the usual "basement is freezing, top floor is broiling" temperature problem. Our thermostat was installed in a stupid place (inside an office on the ground floor), and we're going to relocate it. While relocating it won't automatically solve the temperature issues on the top floor, it will at the very least keep the AC (and/or heat) running longer and more accurately if we put it in a non-enclosed, non-tiny room. Here's the question: should we move the thermostat to the living room (kitchen, living room, and morning room are all one big room on ground floor) or to the top floor (all bedrooms)? Our HVAC guy suggested that we put it on the top floor, but 1) that's going to be much harder/more expensive from a wiring perspective 2) it won't solve the temperature problem on its own, and it's not like I can't walk downstairs to change the temperature. Any advantages to putting it on the top floor in a hallway vs. the "great room" on the ground floor? Also: any opinions on the Nest thermostat? I'm more interested in being able to change settings via Internet than any other feature, really. Edit: This thermostat is wi-fi enabled and almost 1/3 the cost of Nest. The Macaroni fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 19:37
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The thermostat should be located near the return duct in a place where it can accurately measure airflow. Think about how the air will be flowing from the registers to the return duct, and which temperatures you want to prioritize. You can balance airflow to different parts of your house by using adjustable dampers on your registers; you'll likely need to seasonally adjust it with different damper settings for heating vs cooling.Dragyn posted:That's great help. I'll give it a shot. Thanks! grover fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 20:53
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Thanks, grover!
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Jul 15, 2013 23:38
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The Macaroni posted:Question about home HVAC: we have the usual "basement is freezing, top floor is broiling" temperature problem. Our thermostat was installed in a stupid place (inside an office on the ground floor), and we're going to relocate it. While relocating it won't automatically solve the temperature issues on the top floor, it will at the very least keep the AC (and/or heat) running longer and more accurately if we put it in a non-enclosed, non-tiny room. You might not even need to move your thermostat. Close all of your vents on the ground floor, then keep all of your doors closed upstairs. That will keep your cold air upstairs. Heat rises and cold falls, so doing that will keep the ground floor cool too.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:24
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In anticipation of getting new carpet installed, I want to address my squeaky bedroom floors. I pulled back the carpet and pad to find tons of extra shiny screws through the plywood into solid floor joists. The last owner obviously already tried the fix I intended but it didn't work. A lot of the squeaks aren't even at plywood seams where I'd expect them. What are my options here?
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Jul 16, 2013 18:17
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