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My biggest regret is not planting eggplant. Next year it's all eggplant all the time!
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Jul 10, 2013 23:12
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I wish I'd put in more sunflowers myself. I've just got heads starting to form, so assuming deer don't come and gently caress them up I'll have seed out the wazoo for next year I guess. I've also got some brassicas going successfully for the first time! Slugs got all of them last year during "june-uary".
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Jul 10, 2013 23:36
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coyo7e posted:I am actually hoping for freebie squash from others' overload this year on top of what I produce, I am planning on doing a bunch of zucchini relish. We should do an end of season recipe sperg. I know we'll be doing a bit of the choco zucchini bread.
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Jul 10, 2013 23:54
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Fog Tripper posted:We should do an end of season recipe sperg. I know we'll be doing a bit of the choco zucchini bread. I know one thing I'm going to be doing, if I have any luck with my basil and chives, is herb butter. 1 part herb to 2 parts soft butter, mix it up, roll it up in cling wrap, and put in the fridge, or freeze for up to 6 months. I might do herb ice cubes too. My good seed peppers are doing well, the tomatoes survived and are probably going to produce well, the peppers that I took out of the peppers from the grocery store, well, I probably should have put more effort into those. I never did transplant them into something larger before I put them in the ground. Oh well. 
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Jul 10, 2013 23:59
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My mom thought my soil for my container tomatoes need to be aerated, so she decided to use a trowel and "aerate" them. She ended digging a quarter to an half an inch deep and managed to dig up a bunch of roots up without noticing. Are my tomatoes hosed, because I don't want to watch my tomato gradually die. I'd rather knock them out right now, if they're beyond repair.
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Jul 11, 2013 00:41
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Allaniis posted:My mom thought my soil for my container tomatoes need to be aerated, so she decided to use a trowel and "aerate" them. She ended digging a quarter to an half an inch deep and managed to dig up a bunch of roots up without noticing. On the other hand, I don't know if this goes for all sorts of tomato plants, but I've had quite a few branches that broke off due to the wind and I've put them in some water with the tiniest bit of fertilizer and they grew enough roots in a week or two-three to replant them. I don't know if this works with entire plants, but it's potentially worth a shot to hedge your bets and take some ~1' cuttings from one or two of the most damaged ones.
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Jul 11, 2013 00:56
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Tomatoes all readily root off of the branches/stalks. That's why you can take leggy seedlings and bury them up to their seed leaves, or even first real leaves, so they set deeper roots and become more stout. Tomatoes are tough, Allaniis. If your plants are at least a couple feet tall, they probably didn't even notice. Hybrid chat...almost everything grown here (that doesn't self pollinate) in the US are F1 crops. (Anything you get locally at a farmer's market however, who knows.) Basically, it's why you can't, in fact, take seeds from that awesome red pepper you got at the store and plant them for more red peppers. They may be sterile and not grow at all, or you will get a variable mix of the parent lines and F1 traits (voila--you just made an F2 hybrid!) F1 means that generation of plants is the first one from a cross of two different types of parent plants. (Or any organism really--mules are F1 hybrids of a male donkey and female horse.) It's really old school, Mendelian, Punnett square stuff.  Edit: Took some pictures! My Carmine Jewel cherry got sun scorched the day I planted it and has sat there looking like rear end since May, doing nothing. But lo and behold, it's not dead!  Also, here are those blueberry blend tomatoes starting to turn. In the shade, but very purple! 
AlistairCookie fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 15:33
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AlistairCookie posted:Hybrid chat...almost everything grown here (that doesn't self pollinate) in the US are F1 crops. (Anything you get locally at a farmer's market however, who knows.) Basically, it's why you can't, in fact, take seeds from that awesome red pepper you got at the store and plant them for more red peppers. They may be sterile and not grow at all, or you will get a variable mix of the parent lines and F1 traits (voila--you just made an F2 hybrid!) Yeah farmers' markets are pretty variable -- it's best to ask the farmer or else note down the name of the variety and look it up in seed catalogues. I've had some success growing tomato plants from farmers market heirloom tomatoes, but the seed catalogue tells me that the green zebra I saved is F1, and sure enough, most of those didn't even germinate. In other news, I have all the garlic: 
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Jul 12, 2013 07:17
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Newbish questions here - I think I know the answer but I'm seeking confirmation. Rooming with an older couple - price is great, nice people, I sometimes help with their very part time hobbyish farm. Hell it shouldn't even be called a farm. At any rate, they had some tomato plants. I tilled a garden that used to sit in an area, about 8 to 10 inches down. It's in the West Virginia mountains, soil seems to be ok. It's rained every night for the last couple of weeks, in fact, there was a major flood about 2-3 weeks ago that flooded out the entire bottom of the county. Soil seems to be ok, it gets sun most of the day, and, as I said, has rained every night for the last few weeks. The tomatoes sat in those little square seed planters (maybe 3x3 inches and about 6 inches deep for a long time. The tomatoes were very very strong and some of the best I've seen, but they sat in those pots for quite a while - at least 6 weeks, I'd say. I had to finally push them into letting me plant them. They aren't doing so well now. I planted them about 1/3 of the stalk to deep. They were starting to yellow when I put them in the ground. What I figure is that being in those little planters fried the roots. Now the one or two tomatoes seem to be doing ok on each vine, but the leaves are all gone or going, and the stalk is shriveled. The lady here seems to think I didn't plant them deep enough, and maybe I didn't, but I had to do something. Any thoughts or advice?
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Jul 14, 2013 23:24
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Transplant shock is a possibility, it might just bounce back on its own. Its also possible that the plants were left in the packs for way too long, they aren't meant to be long term containers.
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Jul 15, 2013 06:12
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We have quite a few squash-type plants (3 pumpkins of one type, 2 more pumpkins of another type, 1 salad cucumber, 1 lemon cucumber, 1 yellow squash, and 1 canteloupe) that are growing lots of leaves, vines, and male flowers, but no female flowers yet. Well, at least the yellow squash has grown some (maybe 5 or 6) female flowers, but they never get fertilized. Literally, the plants are sprawling all over the place with nothing to show. At this rate, it's probably going to be too late for anything to finish growing...at least for the larger squashes. This happened last year too when we had watermelons, some different cucumbers, and a couple of butternut squashes. For reference, we have plants in ground and in containers with different sources of soil. They get plenty of sun and water. Otherwise, I don't think they'd grow this big. Is there something we can do to change this?
medchem fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 15:35
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medchem posted:We have quite a few squash-type plants (3 pumpkins of one type, 2 more pumpkins of another type, 1 salad cucumber, 1 lemon cucumber, 1 yellow squash, and 1 canteloupe) that are growing lots of leaves, vines, and male flowers, but no female flowers yet. Well, at least the yellow squash has grown some (maybe 5 or 6) female flowers, but they never get fertilized. Literally, the plants are sprawling all over the place with nothing to show. At this rate, it's probably going to be too late for anything to finish growing...at least for the larger squashes. This happened last year too when we had watermelons, some different cucumbers, and a couple of butternut squashes. For reference, we have plants in ground and in containers with different sources of soil. They get plenty of sun and water. Otherwise, I don't think they'd grow this big. Is there something we can do to change this? Are you (over) fertilizing with something that has a lot of nitrogen?
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Jul 15, 2013 19:28
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Motronic posted:Are you (over) fertilizing with something that has a lot of nitrogen? Otherwise medchem, have you seen a lot of pollinators in your area? Perhaps you're not getting enough insects carrying pollen around for your plants - a little paint brush and some hand-pollinating might be worth trying, unless you're against threesomes. 
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Jul 15, 2013 19:44
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coyo7e posted:He said they "never get fertiilized" I think he meant pollinated, but I could be wrong.
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Jul 15, 2013 21:13
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Tomatoes are coming along:   Edit: And the peppers are doing... okay. Jalapeño peppers are producing, the other ones have flowers. Can't wait till they are large enough to eat.
SpannerX fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 23:13
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Totally TWISTED posted:If you have PMs hit me up in a week if I haven't done it yet because I might forget. Or just post here again. I demand my free product!
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Jul 16, 2013 02:59
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Motronic posted:Are you (over) fertilizing with something that has a lot of nitrogen? That is a possibility. I've been following the feeding schedule on FoxFarm's site and I just recently got into the part where I start using the heavier phosphorus stuff. Last year, I did test my soil, and it showed up as having slightly below normal nitrogen. Motronic posted:I think he meant pollinated, but I could be wrong. Yep. I meant pollinated. There are tons of bees and other bee-type insects that are small and look like bees and fly from one flower to another. I don't have a ton of the companion flowers blooming yet, but the squash male flowers appear to be large and attractive enough that I've frequently seen more them having threesomes with 2 bees.
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Jul 16, 2013 12:50
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I demand my free product! Forgot to reply to your PM but yeah my computer died and until I get my RMAd hard drive back no work can be done.
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Jul 16, 2013 18:08
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So, I've decided to attempt to make something of the rest of the summer weather. Not sure if I'm too late to the party (I live in Toronto, Ontario) but hopefully I can still pick some stuff up at the garden centers... mostly herbs. That being said, I'd like something that I can potentially bring inside in the winter. Is there a rule of thumb for containers? I've got a workshop and plenty of cedar (or I can get more cedar if there isn't enough), so ideally I just want to knock together some simple boxes. But I have no idea where to start with sizes. I can imagine coriander taking up lots of room, but things like thyme maybe a lot less. I'm imagining a modular system of 1x1, 1x2, and 1x4 boxes (where "1" is a module, like 4" or 6"). Is it ok to plant 4 herbs side by side in one box, or should they all be in their own container? Beyond the initial setup - how do I keep it going? If I snip off herbs, will they just start re-growing? Or do I have to re-plant? And in wintertime, are there guidelines for how much light is needed and for how long? My window exposure isn't great, so I'll probably have to go fluorescent... Bah, obviously I'm a total newbie at this, and wish I had gotten started in the spring. If there's a website out there that will answer these questions, feel free to tell me to STFU and just post the link! Books are good too...
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Jul 16, 2013 18:24
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I have my herbs inside under lights. Four standard greenhouse trays under three four foot fluorescent shop lights on a timer. I grow them in plastic containers that are about six inches tall. I found some that fit perfectly three per tray at the dollar store and I have others that fit six per tray from old plants I've purchased. In the larger containers I grow three basil plants. Most of the other herbs will grow huge if given space. Rosemary turns in to a tree, mint propagates underground. For most I just throw a bunch of seeds in to the soil and thin as needed. Herbs prefer part shade and will bolt if you're not careful about pruning, temperature and moisture control. For that reason I grow mine inside. Plus they tend to be more delicate under lights and not buggy. If you care I'm in Hamilton and many herbs wont survive the winter. cowofwar fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 18:41
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We've done herbs inside under shop lights, pretty much like cowofwar says. Some herbs are annuals (basil, cilantro) and some are perennials (rosemary, mint, thyme). Rosemary is an investment in a small-ish bush--well worth it. Get one and plant it outside in a nice part-sun spot and mulch it well. I only grow mint in pots outside because it is super invasive and spreads via runners underground. Sweet basil will shoot up quickly and gets bushy and tall. Pinch the flowers when they start forming to extend it's life, but no matter what it will eventually just peter out after a few months. I just re-sowed new basil and cilantro seeds outside so I'll have some nice, big, fresh plants ready for pestos and such by Labor Day--by then my current basils and cilantros will have just about crapped out. Herbs aren't too fussy really (I've never had any herb bolt on me, and I pay them zero attention in the garden once they're in. Maybe they like the Midwest?) Throw some seeds in wet dirt and give them some light. That's about it. If you want to take advantage of the summer still, now is a good time to sow carrots for the fall (I just sowed a second crop of Purple Haze yesterday, in fact). Plant the seeds directly in the ground and you can have carrots by October. They like a cold snap before harvest anyway to set the sugar and make them sweeter. You can even leave them in the ground over winter and pull them up as needed. They are in their perfect storage environment in the cold, dark ground. On the garden front here, it's BLT time! Also, tomato sauce. I pulled a Black Krim and three nice Amish Paste for BLT's tomorrow and have about 20 San Marzanos from the last couple days. I'm making sofrito tonight exclusively from the garden (except for the olive oil)! Being able to make a pot of sauce or whatever all from garden herbs and produce makes me extremely happy. 
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Jul 16, 2013 19:39
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I've had an approx 12ft x 4ft garden for the last 3 years and my results have been slightly different every time. The only things I can consistently grow year after year are sunflowers and bell peppers. Last year was my best year ever and I finally had that "damnit I've got WAYY to much of everything, this rules" and was doing all kinds of stuff to use it all up and giving away tons too. This year, outside I've got 2 pepper plants (not sure if hot or mild chilis) that are doing great as well as 2 tomato plants that way too small and barely alive. Everything else has either died off or the rabbits magically passed through my fencing again and chomped away at the rest. Inside on the other hand, I've still got 1 cherry tomato plant under a nice light that's doing OK. All of my non-food plants (Aloe especially) are doing amazing and of course. Hopefully here in a few weeks/months I'll be able to post some slam bangin pics of my harvest.
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Jul 16, 2013 19:59
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Motronic posted:So it could be an overwatering problem....by no fault of your own. Giblet Plus! posted:it's probably transplant shock. just wait it out until the roots reestablish themselves in their new beds.
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Jul 16, 2013 20:12
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So I didnt notcie some of my asian long beans that were growing under a tomato plant branch and its 3 feet long and fully deveolped. Im going to leave the two on the vine until they dry. How do I harvest these beans for planting next year and what do i need to do to store them?
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Jul 16, 2013 22:40
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Errant Gin Monks posted:So I didnt notcie some of my asian long beans that were growing under a tomato plant branch and its 3 feet long and fully deveolped. Im going to leave the two on the vine until they dry. How do I harvest these beans for planting next year and what do i need to do to store them? I did this last year, and I just let them dry out on the vine, dried them some more after I got them home, then shelled them and stored the seeds in the fridge over the winter. I only planted a few this year, but I've had pretty good germination.
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Jul 17, 2013 03:39
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Has anyone done cardboard sheet mulching and not removed the plastic tape? I am trying to be the laziest gardener ever, and I am wondering if it is really that big of a deal since a foot of compost or 4 inches of straw/wood mulch will be on top of it for a few years.
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Jul 17, 2013 03:46
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A box cutter will make massively short work of tape, slacker. We go through an ungodly amount of tape at work and nobody breaks a sweat.
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Jul 17, 2013 04:57
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Has anyone done cardboard sheet mulching and not removed the plastic tape? I am trying to be the laziest gardener ever, and I am wondering if it is really that big of a deal since a foot of compost or 4 inches of straw/wood mulch will be on top of it for a few years. I don't and it doesn't hurt anything and if it really offends your sensibilities that much then it's really easy to pull out later if you see it since the cardboard has disintegrated.
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Jul 17, 2013 06:41
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I just get all my boxes already without tape on them.  FYI if you're looking to source cardboard Michael's craft stores is a great place for it. On our truck delivery days we get somewhere between 100 and 500 repack boxes- these are good-sized boxes that are all closed with cardboard tabs instead of tape. Ask your local store what day their truck is, and come in first thing that day before everything has had a chance to be shoved in the compactor and you'll get access to a ridiculous amount of tape-free cardboard.
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Jul 17, 2013 12:49
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coyo7e posted:He said they "never get fertiilized" so I'm wondering if a lot of coffee grounds or something might have been added to the mix which can elicit a similar response. Tell me more about coffee grounds. We dump all of ours into the composter and much of which was tilled into our garden soil this spring. I think we are suffering from the lack of bees this year. Tons of flowers on our cukes, zukes and tomatoes, but very few fruits. That said, stuff is happening elsewhere... The Pino Gris vine I planted last year is now about a foot tall, and looks promising. NEVER expected grapes so soon.   Cannot recall if this was the Concord I stuck in the ground this spring. Was about to yank it out and chuck it because it stayed a leafless stick until a couple weeks ago. That new growth is coming from the root system. The "stick" part is still dormant/deceased.  Our Bartlet Pear tree had a ton of flowers this spring but is struggling with only a couple ill-looking fruits. Meanwhile, our asian pear (both pears were planted last fall) is doing rather well. Probably a good 100 or so pears chugging away. 
Fog Tripper fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 13:57
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Fog Tripper posted:Tell me more about coffee grounds. Also, will adding coffee grounds to an area make the soil significantly more acidic? We want to prep a blueberry patch for next spring, and they need acidic soil.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:27
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Peristalsis posted:Also, will adding coffee grounds to an area make the soil significantly more acidic? We want to prep a blueberry patch for next spring, and they need acidic soil. Quoted from here: http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/soil/2002015354019975.html "Roasted coffee is fairly acidic, but it appears that almost all of the acid is water soluble and is extracted during brewing. Used grounds have essentially neutral pH, although the coffee beverage produced is rather acidic. The measured pH of used coffee grounds was 6.9, with a significant amount of buffer capacity - adding the coffee to either acidic or basic solutions drove both towards neutral pH. The exact pH of used grounds will depend on the pH and alkalinity of the water used in brewing, but with any potable water, used grounds will be close to neutral pH." More on this is here and pretty much agrees with the above http://cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/coffeegrounds.html
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Jul 17, 2013 16:25
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Fog Tripper posted:Tell me more about coffee grounds. We dump all of ours into the composter and much of which was tilled into our garden soil this spring. Overdoing it with nitrogen can cause plants to get huge and impressive with big healthy leaves, yet they won't put on very much fruit. There are plenty of articles online, just look up coffee ground composting. Mainly in my experience, people who overdo it with coffee grounds are the ones who bring a 5 gallon bucket or bag of grounds home from the kitchen at work or the local Starbucks' back door every week as a good-intentioned way to cut down on waste, or folks who have a small hobby composter which only gets a half pound of scraps or so a week, and who don't collect all their fallen leaves etc. As long as you have the mass to balance it, they can really help speed up the composting process a great deal though, or you can just add a small amount to the hole in the soil when you put plants in the ground, etc. I think worms are into coffee grounds if you do vermiculture composting, but I don't recall if they help to assuage the amount of nitrogen in some way. edit: here's a pretty good read on coffee grounds, based on some work done by the OSU Master Gardener program, I believe. http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/07/080707171641.htm coyo7e fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 17:39
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Marchegiana posted:I just get all my boxes already without tape on them. I was planning to pick up a bunch of boxes from the Sears store that I spotted the day before. I pulled in to the parking lot last night ready to load up and everything was gone, picked up by the recycling company. I guess I need to go in and offer them a few bucks (or some homebrew) to set aside the larger appliance boxes for me.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:24
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So I had a wild idea the other day while cutting bamboo to make stakes to support my soon-to-be-overloaded tomatillos, and decided to try bamboo mulch. I have to strip the leafy "branches" off of the stalks to get them suitable for use as stakes, which leaves me with a big pile of leaves on 6-18" long branches. I noticed that when I did this in the driveway, I was left with a very respectable "mat" of leaves and stalks. I'm hoping that they will make a nice, airy layer of mulch which will be easy to spread since I won't strip off the leaves first - I'm planning on just laying them down between the plants. I think this may potentially be a Good Idea, and I'm excited to try it out!  Obligatory garden pics (I've been taking at least once-weekly pictures just to get a before-and-after for my own amusement.) The grass is very high around my beds because my car ate it a couple weeks ago, and my feet are hamburger from walking everywhere, so the last thing I've wanted to do is mow and weed-eat..   Lots and lots and lots of tomatillos coming on!    The freshmen who replaced the lettuce in the shadiest spot:  Cpt.Wacky posted:I was planning to pick up a bunch of boxes from the Sears store that I spotted the day before. I pulled in to the parking lot last night ready to load up and everything was gone, picked up by the recycling company. I guess I need to go in and offer them a few bucks (or some homebrew) to set aside the larger appliance boxes for me. Packing tape is remarkably easy to rip off of carboard though, knock the boxes apart first and then just grab one end and the whole thing usually comes off in a strip. It's your property, but it seems irresponsible to me to leave plastic in the soil, and the glue could potentially have gross chemicals in it. Make sure not to get glossy cardboard, I left a big glossy box over a stump in my backyard to see how quickly they decompose - that was last August, and you can still read most of it, and the box is still intact. coyo7e fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 20:00
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coyo7e posted:Or just be friendly and ask them what day the recycling truck picks up, it's likely once a week. Book stores are another good place to get lots and lots of boxes that are clean and compostable, without lots of glossy crap, labels, and packing tape. I can do that but I figured it would be nicer to have more of a guarantee for a small investment. Usually the stuff they leave out is the bigger boxes packed full of all the smaller bits of cardboard and styrofoam packing materials. If I want the big boxes I have to empty them out and sort cardboard from styrofoam and then hope there's still room left in their garbage cans for the styrofoam. I could part with a six-pack of homebrew now and then to be able to just pull in and load up lots of big flattened boxes.
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Jul 17, 2013 21:56
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I can do that but I figured it would be nicer to have more of a guarantee for a small investment. Here is one my roommate threw in tonight because he can cook some amazing stuff:  Just chop them up and throw in at the last minute - why get overloaded with squash?
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Jul 18, 2013 08:24
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medchem posted:We have quite a few squash-type plants (3 pumpkins of one type, 2 more pumpkins of another type, 1 salad cucumber, 1 lemon cucumber, 1 yellow squash, and 1 canteloupe) that are growing lots of leaves, vines, and male flowers, but no female flowers yet. Well, at least the yellow squash has grown some (maybe 5 or 6) female flowers, but they never get fertilized. Literally, the plants are sprawling all over the place with nothing to show. At this rate, it's probably going to be too late for anything to finish growing...at least for the larger squashes. This happened last year too when we had watermelons, some different cucumbers, and a couple of butternut squashes. For reference, we have plants in ground and in containers with different sources of soil. They get plenty of sun and water. Otherwise, I don't think they'd grow this big. Is there something we can do to change this? I've had a similar problem, I just switched to hand pollination after I had a half dozen female flowers refuse to set fruit. Maybe you should give it a try?
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Jul 18, 2013 21:59
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I need to build a short, thin garden retaining wall and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or advice. I am installing a fence between properties and need to keep our garden/lawn soil away from the fence posts. The garden is 6" to 8" higher than the fence post line, so I need something simple to hold the soil up along a 20' and a 30' long area. It doesn't need to look pretty, it just needs to keep dirt off the posts because we live in a very rainy west coast climate. Is a thin concrete retaining wall overkill in this case? That's not something I would be comfortable doing on my own, so I would have to pay someone to come in and set it. I was toying with the idea of using a line of brick or concrete paving stones, but not sure if they will stay in place without some sort of pinning system. I can't seem to find proper garden retaining wall stones or bricks that are thin enough to not case a major loss of garden real estate. Treated lumber is not an option because the neighbours are growing fruit near the fence line. In fact, that was a major factor in the decision to remove the entire fence and fence posts this spring, rather than just repair the rotted out sections. I would like to avoid poisoning their children. Here's a picture of the 20'-ish section that needs to be held up. Red line indicates the fence line. The 30' section is much wider and you can see where the neighbours garden is, but I don't have any good pictures of it at the moment.  Fake edit: Am I better off posting this in the Fix it Fast thread?
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Jul 18, 2013 23:08
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Dillbag posted:I need to build a short, thin garden retaining wall and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or advice. I am installing a fence between properties and need to keep our garden/lawn soil away from the fence posts. The garden is 6" to 8" higher than the fence post line, so I need something simple to hold the soil up along a 20' and a 30' long area. It doesn't need to look pretty, it just needs to keep dirt off the posts because we live in a very rainy west coast climate. The risk from treated lumber to fruit trees and people is really really small. They don't make it with arsenic anymore. Really quick and easy but maybe not so pretty idea: CDX plywood sheets cut in long strips, wrapped or lined with 4 mil plastic that is stapled on, held up by lengths of rebar driven into the ground on the outside, and a few on the inside until the soil is in place.
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Jul 19, 2013 00:09
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