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If the leak is coming from the above the water line I can only say to replace the dishwasher. It could have worn out but I know they are cheap so I dont know if repairing it would be worth your time. I think an average dishwasher costs around $200. Now if it was below the triangle by the threads with the white teflon tape on it it would be a simple fix
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Jul 12, 2013 03:30
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If the leak is coming from the above the water line I can only say to replace the dishwasher. It could have worn out but I know they are cheap so I dont know if repairing it would be worth your time. I think an average dishwasher costs around $200. Now if it was below the triangle by the threads with the white teflon tape on it it would be a simple fix It's not even the black hose. It's coming from the white triangle disc itself.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:32
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oldskool posted:Finally fixed my leaky kitchen sink after a year of putting it off. Putty doesn't seal anything. It just keeps crap from getting in the spot where the basket meets the sink.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:33
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Of course the PVC drain pipe is a hair too long and the original plumber just muscled it on there, so I spent half the project simultaneously trying not to strip the PVC nut on the metal basket threads & resisting the urge to extend the project far further by ripping the whole piece out & re-doing it with the right length. I also spent a decent amount of time cleaning putty off the top threads because that's why it leaked in the first place: instead of pushing down on the basket to ensure a good seal all the way around, they just threaded it on and the putty ended up getting sucked down & jammed in the threads instead of sealing the basket-sink connection.
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Putty doesn't seal anything. It just keeps crap from getting in the spot where the basket meets the sink. ...crap like water?
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Jul 12, 2013 04:24
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Sounds like you need a new bottom tub seal. This is usually the beginning of the end for a dishwasher. While you can replace it inexpensively, the next thing to go is the door seal, and then everything else.
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Jul 12, 2013 14:30
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So my dishwasher situation has gotten more complicated. I bought a nice stainless front Whirlpool Gold that is highly rated. I go to remove the previous one at the shutoff valve under my sink seems to be broken. When I tightened (righty-tighty) it initially a bunch of dust came out and I assumed that since it hadn't been turned in a long time it explained why it was so difficult to do. After that water started slowly coming out right behind the knob (oval style , not circle) and the flow increased as I tightened. Instead of pushing it further I opened it back up and the water stopped completely. Sounds as if the seals are shot to me and needs replacing. My first thought is "hey, no big deal, I'll shut it off where it tees up from my basement to my main floor, maybe I'll even replace the shutoff valve when I can make it to the hardware store. I go into my basement and nowhere is the shutoff valve that is accessible. Everything that is accessible by drop-ceiling is straight pipe, no shutoffs. I can see where the pipes lead before the tee, but they disappear into another dry-walled ceiling area about 3-4 feet past where I can feel. Same thing in the other direction to the hot-water heater. So I look at my hot-water heater and there isn't a shut-off leaving it. Looking at the manual it appears to be normal. There is a shutoff for the cool water inflow though. I theorize that if I turn that off water will still flow until the tank is emptied unless there is some fluid dynamics I'm not considering where turning that off stops the flow of hot water out of the tank. Here are my options as I see it: 1. Turn off of the water at the main, drain the tank and then replace the valve and install the dishwasher (or at least just the valve to fix one thing at a time). Turn the main back on and hope everything is functional and good. 2. Cut the drywall where I THINK the shutoffs leading up to the sink would be. This isn't the worst idea as the ceiling is recessed there and not even visible until you crane your head in that area. I don't like holes in my drywall though and have never patched it before despite it probably not being an issue. 3. Call a professional to handle the whole problem and pay $$$. What say you goon help?
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Jul 13, 2013 03:14
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TraderStav posted:
Most houses only have on shutoff valve for the each faucet/dishwasher/whatever. If your shutoff valve for the dishwasher is screwed, I'd go for either option of turning the main off or the hot water heater intake. Both will require you turning on the hot water at a few faucets and letting it run. Don't forget to turn off the breaker for the hot water heater. I'm sure running the hot water heater without water isn't good for it.
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Jul 13, 2013 03:58
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TraderStav posted:So I look at my hot-water heater and there isn't a shut-off leaving it. Looking at the manual it appears to be normal. There is a shutoff for the cool water inflow though. I theorize that if I turn that off water will still flow until the tank is emptied unless there is some fluid dynamics I'm not considering where turning that off stops the flow of hot water out of the tank. I'm not sure what you are saying here......but if you shut off the cold water to the water heater the only thing that would empty the tank is gravity. If it's in your basement that's not a concern. TraderStav posted:Here are my options as I see it: If I'm misunderstanding please correct me, but it seems you don't know where the main shut off is for your domestic water. You need to know this. If for some reason you don't have one you need to shut it off at the curb or meter and put one in. Then replace your shutoffs to the dishwasher (yes, both of them - if one is crusty the other one will be soon enough anyway) and replace your dishwasher. That solves all of your problems properly, including potential and likely future problems (which is why I'm saying replace both shutoffs to the dishwasher) and gives you some way of mitigating other plumbing situations before your house gets destroyed (the main shut off). There is no way I'd live in a house without knowing where I can shut off all water coming in. Anyone who has ever dealt with water damage is going to pretty much feel the same way. I find it hard to believe you dont' have a shutoff somewhere. By code in most jurisdictions this has to be very close to where the water comes into the house. You can have other shutoffs along this run for service/to make them more accessible, but there must be at least one near the service entrance. If your basement has been finished without leaving access to this I would suggest you start looking for the water meter for a clue as to where you need to look/start cutting drywall (because even if you don't find one there, that's where it needs to go.
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Jul 13, 2013 04:01
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Motronic posted:I'm not sure what you are saying here......but if you shut off the cold water to the water heater the only thing that would empty the tank is gravity. If it's in your basement that's not a concern. I know where the main shut off is, but if I shut that off there is still 55 gallons of water in the hot water heater that should supply the house if I turn it off there. There is only one broken shutoff and that is under my sink to the dishwasher. The shutoff on the same pipe under my sink to the faucet works great and I used it to replace a faucet last year. The challenge is that any other shutoffs in between the hot water heater and my sink are dry-walled off in the ceiling. I imagine the previous homeowners did so thinking that they would only need the one under the sink. Can you elaborate on what would happen if I shut off the cold water to my hot water tank? Picturing this: Main - | shutoff -> hot water heater -> rest of house. If I shut that off, I presume that the water in the tank would make it's way to the house, but not be replenished (as the poster above said) until I reopened the main. This sounds like the best way to get this whole thing fixed. Is that more clear? Sorry if I rambled on and it was jumbled. Thanks!
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Jul 13, 2013 04:10
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ShadowStalker posted:Most houses only have on shutoff valve for the each faucet/dishwasher/whatever. If your shutoff valve for the dishwasher is screwed, I'd go for either option of turning the main off or the hot water heater intake. Both will require you turning on the hot water at a few faucets and letting it run. Don't forget to turn off the breaker for the hot water heater. I'm sure running the hot water heater without water isn't good for it. If I shut off the hot-water intake that should cover me after the tank is emptied right? That's probably a good long while for the capacity, but cheaper than a plumber. I'll talk to the guys at the hardware store tomorrow for the exact procedure for replacing the shutoff valve. Thanks a load for the input!
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Jul 13, 2013 04:11
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TraderStav posted:If I shut off the hot-water intake that should cover me after the tank is emptied right? That's probably a good long while for the capacity, but cheaper than a plumber. The tank doesn't have to be emptied, you just have to turn on the hot water at a faucet to relieve any pressure in the lines. Just shutoff the hot water heater intake, turn off the hot water heater breaker, turn on the hot water at a faucet and let it run dry. Then replace the shutoff valve. What type of hot water plumbing do you have (Copper, PVC, Pex, etc)?
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Jul 13, 2013 04:23
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ShadowStalker posted:The tank doesn't have to be emptied, you just have to turn on the hot water at a faucet to relieve any pressure in the lines. Just shutoff the hot water heater intake, turn off the hot water heater breaker, turn on the hot water at a faucet and let it run dry. Then replace the shutoff valve. Oh, that's fantastic. I have copper. Thanks for pointing out the need to turn off the breaker on the HWH, I wouldn't have considered that. This doesn't sound that bad of a gig after all!
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Jul 13, 2013 04:35
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oldskool posted:...crap like water? No like food that could grow bacteria.
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Jul 13, 2013 05:09
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TraderStav posted:Oh, that's fantastic. I have copper. Thanks for pointing out the need to turn off the breaker on the HWH, I wouldn't have considered that. This doesn't sound that bad of a gig after all! You'll need a saw of some type with a blade to cut metal, whether a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. Torch, solder, flux, and I'd probably shoot for some fireproof material to stick behind the pipe while heating it. It's not too tricky, just watch a video or 2 on youtube. Use a liberal amount of flux and remember to heat the pipes and not the solder. You can even pick up a small piece of pipe and some joints to practice on if you don't feel comfortable with doing the valve first. Shouldn't cost that much. You should be able to cut the copper pipe directly below the valve and slap the new valve on top. It will drop the valve height down 2 inches or so from where it was before but usually that shouldn't be an issue.
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Jul 13, 2013 06:18
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ShadowStalker posted:You'll need a saw of some type with a blade to cut metal, whether a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. Torch, solder, flux, and I'd probably shoot for some fireproof material to stick behind the pipe while heating it. It's not too tricky, just watch a video or 2 on youtube. Use a liberal amount of flux and remember to heat the pipes and not the solder. You can even pick up a small piece of pipe and some joints to practice on if you don't feel comfortable with doing the valve first. Shouldn't cost that much. Buy a little pipecutter. It can be used in tight areas a blade cannot and much easier to get even straight cuts.
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Jul 13, 2013 14:41
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Naw, I will hire a professional to do that bit of work. Above my skill level. I will do the dishwasher by turning off the main and then call someone in to fix the shutoff for the long term. Thanks for all the help goons, you really got me to where I needed to be!
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Jul 13, 2013 14:43
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I have a toilet problem. Since college I've prided myself on being able to fix every sort of toilet problem but I'm stuck with this one. When you flush the toilet, everything looks perfectly normal, water goes in the bowl fine, flushing stops when it should, but there's a horribly loud whooshing water-noise from the tank. I opened it up to have a look and found this:   Basically the water from the fill valve is spraying out under a ton of pressure and hitting the inside of the tank like a sprinkler, which makes a ton of noise and makes me think the tank's going to blow up at some point. The tube going down into the tank is running fine, but I think there may be a blockage where the water flows from the fill valve into the tank? I'm stuck because the top of our fill valve doesn't screw off and I can't figure out how to remove it to clear the clog or put on a new one. Does anyone know what sort of valve this is from my (lovely lovely) picture, and how to remove it? Is it safe to keep running the toilet with this issue? It really looks like it's going to blow up any minute - I dialed the water back a little bit to reduce pressure for the time being.
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Jul 14, 2013 20:37
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TraderStav posted:Naw, I will hire a professional to do that bit of work. Above my skill level. I will do the dishwasher by turning off the main and then call someone in to fix the shutoff for the long term. I love happy endings:  The packing nut on the shut off valve just needed an 1/8th turn and it worked perfectly from then on out. Thanks for everything!
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Jul 14, 2013 20:41
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fuzzy_logic posted:I have a toilet problem. As long as that crack is not shooting water upward and ricocheting off the lid and out of the tank, it's safe. Yeah, it's leaking, but it's leaking into the tank it's supposed to be filling anyway. As long as the fill valve shuts off when the floater comes up, then it's working fine and the noise is more of an annoyance problem. But if you want to replace it, that's pretty easy. All you need is some channel-lock pliers. 1. Get a big towel you don't mind getting dirty and put it under the toilet. 2. Turn off the water at the valve under the toilet. 3. Hold down the flush lever until the tank is as empty as you can get it. 4. Use a rag to soak up any water left in the bottom of the tank and ring it into the bowl. 5. Unscrew the supply line from the bottom of the tank. If the valve leaks and water comes out the supply line anyway, we can help you fix that too. If it leaks a LOT of water, tighten the supply line back up, because the stem washer in that valve is gone. We again can help you fix that. 6. Unscrew the plastic nut on the bottom of the tank holding the fill valve down. Get that towel ready to catch water. 7. Pull the fill valve up and out of the tank. 8. Follow the directions included with the new fill valve for installation.
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Jul 14, 2013 21:28
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kid sinister posted:As long as that crack is not shooting water upward and ricocheting off the lid and out of the tank, it's safe. Yeah, it's leaking, but it's leaking into the tank it's supposed to be filling anyway. As long as the fill valve shuts off when the floater comes up, then it's working fine and the noise is more of an annoyance problem. But if you want to replace it, that's pretty easy. All you need is some channel-lock pliers. Awesome, thank you! It never occurs to me to go through the bottom of the tank for some reason. I'll probably fix it this week when it's convenient, I'm just tired of the flush scaring the poo poo out of me when it's the middle of the night and I'm half-asleep.
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Jul 14, 2013 22:16
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fuzzy_logic posted:It never occurs to me to go through the bottom of the tank for some reason. Actually, you can go through the top of the tank if that's an height-adjustable fill valve and you somehow find a duplicate of your existing one. On those the bottom pipe has an inner pipe and and outer pipe. For those you turn off the water first, slide up the locking ring, pull the whole top off that inner pipe, then take apart the new one the same way and put it on the old base pipe. I've done that with Fluidmaster fill valves before. By the way, yours isn't a Fluidmaster.
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Jul 14, 2013 23:54
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I say just replace it. You can get the fluid master kit for around $25. Most of the time, it's not worth the time to gently caress with old parts like that. Also you will need a new supply line coming from the angle stop.
Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 05:30
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Toilet problem: went to flush the toilet and all the waste went down but the water didn't fully drain. Tried to flush again and the bowl filled up, then the tank filled, then water stopped flowing into the tank, and the bowl slowly drained out to almost nothing left. I'm hilariously broke and can't afford a plumber, and this is the only toilet in the house. Any suggestions?
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Jul 16, 2013 06:51
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jivjov posted:Toilet problem: went to flush the toilet and all the waste went down but the water didn't fully drain. Tried to flush again and the bowl filled up, then the tank filled, then water stopped flowing into the tank, and the bowl slowly drained out to almost nothing left. Congrats, you have just stopped up a toilet. Flush again and plunge!
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Jul 16, 2013 11:19
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ShadowStalker posted:Congrats, you have just stopped up a toilet. Flush again and plunge! Well, it must be the clog of the century, plunged it for a good 30 minutes to no effect. My wife broke in to savings to call a professional, so maybe he will succeed where I have failed. EDIT: Yup, Roto Rooter was more than happy to work their pipe-mancy to transmute my money into a working toilet. The plumber was super nice and told us exactly what tools to go invest in so that we wouldn't have to call him out for the same problem again. jivjov fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 13:37
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jivjov posted:The plumber was super nice and told us exactly what tools to go invest in so that we wouldn't have to call him out for the same problem again. That's because you had a simple plumbing problem, one well within the ability of homeowners to fix and something a pro feels to be a waste of his time.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:15
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kid sinister posted:That's because you had a simple plumbing problem, one well within the ability of homeowners to fix and something a pro feels to be a waste of his time. You're probably right...but he was very nice about it. As soon as payday rolls around, I'm investing in a toilet auger and be a happier homeowner for it.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:22
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jivjov posted:You're probably right...but he was very nice about it. As soon as payday rolls around, I'm investing in a toilet auger and be a happier homeowner for it. I've never had an auger, I'd suggest trying to eat differently so you're not taking pop-can sized shits. This happened to my five year old, got him on some Mirilax (sp?) and he stopped clogging it all up.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:26
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Look, if your poops aren't the size and shape of a pringles can, is that really even living?
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Jul 16, 2013 17:30
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Bad Munki posted:Look, if your poops aren't the size and shape of a pringles can, is that really even living? You may have a point, I'm going to reevaluate my position on this.
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Jul 16, 2013 17:42
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Our toilet is loose (rocks side to side and twists), and is leaking at the base when flushed. We pulled it up, and were left with this after removing the old wax: The blue/rust metal ring is under a lip of the PVC drainpipe... it doesn't seem it can be removed. And not sure how to attach a new one to this even if we did cut this one off or something. It must be replaced because the portion where the toilet screwed down is completely rusted out. What is going on here and how do I fix it?
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Jul 16, 2013 23:00
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jivjov posted:Well, it must be the clog of the century, plunged it for a good 30 minutes to no effect. My wife broke in to savings to call a professional, so maybe he will succeed where I have failed. An auger is worth it but put it in the drain of the toilet fully and tilt it back at like a 45° and shove it it in. You can scratch the poo poo out of the toilet if not.
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Jul 17, 2013 04:41
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beejay posted:Our toilet is loose (rocks side to side and twists), and is leaking at the base when flushed. We pulled it up, and were left with this after removing the old wax: You will have to chip away some time to get to the wood subfloor but a hammer and screw driver will suffice. I'd use this since personally I think they are the best. http://www.amazon.com/Lasco-33-3738...pair+kit+toilet Buy a 2nd wax ring and use it to seal the gap between the replacement and the original and then use your other new wax ring for the toilet.
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Jul 17, 2013 04:44
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My condo/townhouse kind of sucks because it's really strangely set up for plumbing. I do not have a shutoff valve anywhere in my condo. It's in my neighbor's condo, so anytime I have to do work I have to go over to her place and shut off the water to both of our units. Moreover my hot water and hers mix. When my water heater was leaking and I had it replaced, I asked them to install valves (They did) - but shutting off the valve doesn't stop hot water from flowing from any of my faucets. I have a leaky faucet in the upstairs bathtub. The valve is fine, the washer is damaged because the seat has a notch in it. As I open and close the valve, the washer gets slowly shredded. I tried to replace the seat, and I couldn't get the new seat to screw in properly. Even after I made sure it was exactly the same size it wouldn't seem like it fit in. So as a temporary measure I went ahead and swapped out the washer to stop the leak but be able to turn the water back on. Then a few months later when the new washer was all shredded, I did the same. I took the old seat out, took it with me to home depot, got the seat their plumbing 'specialist' suggested, and it didn't fit either. So I did the same - swapped out the washer so my neighbor, at least, could have water. I'm tired of having to turn off her water just to fix my little leak. So I want to get valves installed on the pipes behind the bathtub. I have an access panel there but no valves (Which makes me wonder why the hell there's an access panel there to begin with). I could go to a professional but I was thinking of saving a LOT of money by installing them myself. My parents recently replaced their hot water heater and used sharkbites when they did so - so now I'm thinking of installing them myself. I'm just not sure how much I should trust them. So I figured I'd ask here and see what you all might recommend. I already got a quote from one company - $350. I really would like to save several hundred dollars if possible.
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Jul 18, 2013 02:50
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khy posted:My condo/townhouse kind of sucks because it's really strangely set up for plumbing. Don't use shark bites they are only if you can't shut off the water and need to fix it quickly. $350 isnt bad but ask if you provide the valve if they will give you a better deal. I'd recommend delta, they are easy to work on.
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Jul 18, 2013 03:03
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Don't use shark bites they are only if you can't shut off the water and need to fix it quickly. $350 isnt bad but ask if you provide the valve if they will give you a better deal. I'd recommend delta, they are easy to work on. My concern with that is that the pipes are copper and I have no equipment for nor experience with sweating on a fitting on a pipe. The pipes are also quite close to the wall in a smallish space. Cutting the pipe I would not feel uncomfortable with but I'm not so sure about using a torch or whatever. And $350, while affordable, is not something I'd particularly like to spend if I could avoid it.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:40
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khy posted:My concern with that is that the pipes are copper and I have no equipment for nor experience with sweating on a fitting on a pipe. The pipes are also quite close to the wall in a smallish space. Cutting the pipe I would not feel uncomfortable with but I'm not so sure about using a torch or whatever. And $350, while affordable, is not something I'd particularly like to spend if I could avoid it. If you use shark bites make sure you sand each copper pipe and put some faucet lube on the pipe and the sharkbite fitting's O-Ring.
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Jul 18, 2013 15:20
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you use shark bites make sure you sand each copper pipe and put some faucet lube on the pipe and the sharkbite fitting's O-Ring. Is faucet lube just vaseline?
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Jul 18, 2013 15:55
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Is faucet lube just vaseline? No, faucet lube is a non petroleum lube. If you use a petroleum based lube it will make o rings swell and ruin them. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jul 19, 2013 |
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Jul 19, 2013 01:54
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My water heater is making knocking noises after I use hot water. Do I need to flush it? And how do I do that?
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Jul 19, 2013 13:45
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