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tzam posted:Somebody talk me out of buying a 10 year old superbike. you could get a VTR1000.
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Jul 16, 2013 13:47
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| # ? May 21, 2024 11:30 |
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Liter bikes rule, don't be afraid to consider the more liter standards as well. I'd wager insurance is probably cheaper on a ZRX/FZ1/etc.
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Jul 16, 2013 14:24
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tzam posted:Somebody talk me out of buying a 10 year old superbike. Why not go for a twin or even a triple instead of a 4?
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Jul 16, 2013 14:55
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You want a Bandit 1200 or whatever the 900 Hornet/919/CBF900F is called there. Standard riding positions are severely underrated.
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Jul 16, 2013 18:21
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Superbike replicas tend to have stupid tall gearing that really saps the usefulness of all that power on the street, and make top end exploration require way, way over legal limit speeds. Plus few road riders praise the ergos. Nthing the recommendation to look for a litre standard / naked instead.
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Jul 16, 2013 18:36
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I think an older R1 makes a great street sport bike. Good torque, ergos aren't too crazy, fairly cheap, oodles of power. Oh and it still looks good.
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Jul 16, 2013 19:43
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My wife is taking the safety course offered here and is looking for a first bike. There are two ads that have caught our eyes, an '86 Shadow and a '85 Maxim-X. Is there any reason to avoid either one of these (no parts available, horrendous maintenance, deathtrap)? Anything specific to look out for when checking it out?
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Jul 16, 2013 22:15
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The maxim had a ton of power and isn't an ideal starter bike. The shadow would be fine. Their problems are almost entirely due to 30 year old electronics and clogged carbs from spending years in a toolshed. At worst you'll need to replace the fuel pump, coils, and clean the carbs. Otherwise they run just fine and there are actually quite a few of them still on the road today.
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Jul 16, 2013 22:22
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The Shadow would be a tamer ride for a first-timer. Both are pretty old though. Likelihood of a mechanical problem popping up and costing money is high on bikes that old. If you want to wrench, get an old bike; if you want to ride, look for something newer.
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Jul 16, 2013 22:23
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So I found something interesting for sale: http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/3894821753.html I didn't know these bikes existed, but an old 850cc ptwin? I'm half tempted to go check it out just for the hell of it.
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Jul 16, 2013 22:36
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I should clarify a bit - it'll be her first bike that goes on the road. She spent a lot of time tearing around forests up north on some sort of 2-stroke dirt bike so she has a bit of experience. Another option that we've been kicking around is getting a new v-star 250, riding it for a couple years, and selling it off to get a down payment for something bigger when she knows more about what she'd like to be doing, but I'm not totally convinced she would even get a couple of years out of it before getting tired of it.
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Jul 16, 2013 22:47
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I'd still shy away from the 30 year old performance bike. Normally I would also say 250 cruisers are a joke and should be skipped entirely. Though I hear insurance in Canada is wicked and I'd look into the price differences on an older 650-750 vs a modern 250. The difference might be a payment.
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Jul 16, 2013 22:55
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Slavvy posted:Ninja 250/300, pack your bags. The ninja looks like a full-faired sports, and I guess the CBR250 does too, but the riding position and experience are basically identical to the Inazuma, just with less wind. Oh. I thought the Inazuma was more upright. I'm seeing recommendations of the Ninja as a first bike all over the place, and that's pretty compelling. The only thing I've seen and really liked that I didn't list in my previous post is the Suzuki TU250X. Money permitting (which I think it will), and my tastes not changing, my assumption has been that I'll be buying a Triumph Bonneville in 18-months to 2 years. I've loved those loving things since I was 5. If that's the kind of bike I ultimately want to ride, is there much advantage to starting with a similar riding position, or does it not matter very much? It's certainly the best looking (to me) of all the suitable beginner bikes I've looked at. I'm sorry for asking stupid questions. I've spent precious little time on bikes, and don't actually have a license for them yet (though that'll change in a couple of weeks). All I really know is that I love them and have enough money to dive right in.
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Jul 17, 2013 07:09
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Smudgie Buggler posted:Oh. I thought the Inazuma was more upright. I'm seeing recommendations of the Ninja as a first bike all over the place, and that's pretty compelling. The only thing I've seen and really liked that I didn't list in my previous post is the Suzuki TU250X. Money permitting (which I think it will), and my tastes not changing, my assumption has been that I'll be buying a Triumph Bonneville in 18-months to 2 years. I've loved those loving things since I was 5. If that's the kind of bike I ultimately want to ride, is there much advantage to starting with a similar riding position, or does it not matter very much? It's certainly the best looking (to me) of all the suitable beginner bikes I've looked at. Asking questions=/=stupid. Stupid people buy a harley/gixxer/whatever for their first bike and rock around with no helmet because of their faultless wisdom. I'd avoid the volty because it has crushingly poor horsepower compared to the other 250's you've listed, to the point where highway riding can be hazardous. Also dreadful suspension, dreadful brakes, and just generally shittier quality all-round. There is no advantage to starting off on a bike which is superficially semi-similar to what your dream bike may be, your best bet is to start on something with entirely neutral, middle of the road ergonomics. This is both so you can learn to ride well, without developing bad habits, and so that you can figure out what you want out of your next bike, be it more power/comfort/touring/offroad/whatever. My private opinion is that if you really want to be great at riding, and this outlook doesn't change, you'll never get that bonneville and end up on a sportsbike of some description. Also, noone who ever decided on their dream bike before learning to ride still wants that bike after having ridden for a few years, because what they think they want beforehand and what they really want after they learn are completely different. Fact.  edit: so that's what happens when you lose connection mid-post... Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 07:34
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2013 13:37
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Jose Pointero posted:This is painfully true. I've always been fond of Bonnevilles myself, but now that I've been riding a while I think my next bike will be a Tiger 800 or some other middleweight dualsport. I agree that a standard for your first ride is probably a good idea. quote:I also agree that avoiding the allure of old cheap "fixer upper" bikes on craigslist is a good idea for your first bike. The bike I got is 22 years old. All said and done I still got a good deal on it and still love it; but I've spent more time and effort fixing various minor issues on it than I care to admit. Looking back I think I should've spent about 1.5x more than what I did on a newer bike with a good service history.
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Jul 17, 2013 13:59
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Jose Pointero posted:Looking back I think I should've spent about 1.5x more than what I did on a newer bike with a good service history. This. Craigslist makes me groan every time I see a good runner for less than my non-running shitheap has been so far. Listen to this man.
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Jul 17, 2013 13:59
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2013 14:24
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Jose Pointero posted:I was referring to riding position, but I suppose both applies So, you're advocating the riding position of the TU250X/Bonneville? Do you know of any bikes like those that are of better quality than the former but less powerful than the latter, and aren't ancient UJMs?
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Jul 17, 2013 14:29
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The Bonneville isn't exactly a powerful bike. And the torque curve is... how shall I say... uninspiring? It's not so much a torque curve, as a torque shelf. Since the re-launch, triumphs are some seriously reliable bikes. I wouldn't look at them in a light any different from a japanese bike.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:40
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Nerobro posted:The Bonneville isn't exactly a powerful bike. And the torque curve is... how shall I say... uninspiring? It's not so much a torque curve, as a torque shelf. Since the re-launch, triumphs are some seriously reliable bikes. I wouldn't look at them in a light any different from a japanese bike. Oh, sure. I know it's not a massively powerful bike in the grand scheme, but what I mean is that it isn't approved for new riders in Australia.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:42
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If you know you want a "standard" style riding position and you're in love with the Bonnie, just get the Bonnie. It's a 500 lb bike with ~65 hp and lazy gearing. It's not imposing for a new rider. The weight sits low, and the suspension is competant but not particularly aggressive. Just about any one can start out on one and be fine.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:54
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ThatCguy posted:If you know you want a "standard" style riding position and you're in love with the Bonnie, just get the Bonnie. It's a 500 lb bike with ~65 hp and lazy gearing. It's not imposing for a new rider. The weight sits low, and the suspension is competant but not particularly aggressive. Just about any one can start out on one and be fine. That's exactly what I would be doing. If it were legal. There's a whitelist of bikes that riders less than a year from having obtained their licenses are allowed to ride. Guess what isn't on it?
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Jul 17, 2013 14:55
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Smudgie Buggler posted:That's exactly what I would be doing. If it were legal. drat communists.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:59
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Jul 17, 2013 15:05
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Halo_4am posted:The maxim had a ton of power and isn't an ideal starter bike. The shadow would be fine. Their problems are almost entirely due to 30 year old electronics and clogged carbs from spending years in a toolshed. Confirmation on the amazing power of the Maxim - a fantastic bike if it's running properly, but a scary one if you're not used to that kind of engine with that kind of seating position. It won't be anything approaching reliable though. Hey, here is a question about a brand new bike. I was in the dealer yesterday checking out the CB500F (the naked one) and I fell in love with it. I'm thinking of getting one for a new commuter. Has anyone ridden around on one of these yet? So far my only concern is being able to get slightly knobbier tires in the 17 inch wheel size (since part of my commute is dirt) but otherwise the whole package is exactly what I like. Thoughts on expected reliability etc?
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Jul 17, 2013 16:28
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Hey, here is a question about a brand new bike. I was in the dealer yesterday checking out the CB500F (the naked one) and I fell in love with it. I'm thinking of getting one for a new commuter. Has anyone ridden around on one of these yet? So far my only concern is being able to get slightly knobbier tires in the 17 inch wheel size (since part of my commute is dirt) but otherwise the whole package is exactly what I like. Thoughts on expected reliability etc? I've only sat on one. Ergos of a standard bike. If part of your commute is dirt I would suggest this: http://powersports.honda.com/2013/cb500x.aspx
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Jul 17, 2013 23:07
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Gweenz posted:I've only sat on one. Ergos of a standard bike. If part of your commute is dirt I would suggest this: I thought about that, but there's no difference mechanically, not even in suspension travel, as far as I can tell. Though if both were at the dealer for the same price, I'd probably take it because of the windscreen. Doesn't solve the knobby tire issue, unfortunately, but that's probably something I can overcome by riding more carefully over the washboard.
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Jul 18, 2013 00:03
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I have had a CB500F for about a month now and have been commuting on it a few times a week into Philadelphia (about 100 miles round trip). Fun little bike, not too much power, but more than enough for the highway. I would have to agree on looking into another bike if a significant portion of your commute is on dirt. I have to do about 1/4 mile of gravel to get home and that is about as far as I would ever want to take it on dirt. You could do more, but it wouldn't be fun.
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Jul 18, 2013 00:07
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There are surely a few knobby-ish tire options available for you regardless of bike. Sounds like what you are after are some "trail" type radials like the Pirelli MT-90, Scorpion Trail or Shinko 705s.
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Jul 18, 2013 00:09
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Confirmation on the amazing power of the Maxim - a fantastic bike if it's running properly, but a scary one if you're not used to that kind of engine with that kind of seating position. It won't be anything approaching reliable though. Just get some dual sport 80/20 or 90/10 tires. How long are you on dirt? Is it just a dirt road or a trail?
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Jul 18, 2013 00:14
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Jose Pointero posted:I also agree that avoiding the allure of old cheap "fixer upper" bikes on craigslist is a good idea for your first bike.
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Jul 18, 2013 00:39
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Should I bid ~$4600-4800 on a former Police R1150RT with 50k on the clock? Is that totally insane? I would probably buy a tan jacket and white helmet, and watch the seas part on my commute each day.
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Jul 18, 2013 03:58
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The one major complaint about the R bikes is that their clutch splines have a habit of taking a poo poo right at 50k. Some do, some don't. The fix is comprehensive (i.e. step 1, split the bike in half.) Final drives also sometimes go right around that time period. See if it has evidence that either has been addressed already, or if the owner thinks those problems are manifesting and that's why it's for sale. Otherwise, not a bad bike for a good price and it'll easily go another 50k+
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Jul 18, 2013 04:02
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sirbeefalot posted:Should I bid ~$4600-4800 on a former Police R1150RT with 50k on the clock? Is that totally insane? I would probably buy a tan jacket and white helmet, and watch the seas part on my commute each day. Hahahahahahaha no gently caress no. Those bikes are well maintained but they see HEINOUS abuse from the cops, constant idling, hard riding at low speed, etc. I wouldn't pay anywhere near that. Are you looking at it from a guy in SLO?
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Jul 18, 2013 04:14
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Z3n posted:Hahahahahahaha no gently caress no. Nah, this one's in Murrieta, and I was only about 10% on board to begin with. Its at $4550 right now with 20 hours left.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:29
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sirbeefalot posted:Nah, this one's in Murrieta, and I was only about 10% on board to begin with. Its at $4550 right now with 20 hours left. No way I'd get in on that. It'll probably still go over 5k because x~*bmw*~x, but I would never buy an ex police bike that I didn't anticipate having to replace just about everything on, and with the BMW clutch change? No thanks.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:35
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I had a BMW with over 50k on it. Granted it was a 97 R1100GS, but little things kept breaking and little thing on a BMW are really expensive.
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Jul 18, 2013 14:31
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Never buy any ex-police vehicle (or indeed any ex-fleet vehicle). Put simply - you're buying something that an expert mechanic with a well-equipped garage can no longer economically keep maintained. (Exceptions obviously exist, and of course if it's a vehicle that you're buying for reasons other than daily transport the cost/benefit equation changes, but it's still a pretty damned good rule)
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Jul 18, 2013 15:11
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In the States that really depends, as departments will buy / not buy new vehicles based on how much of the annual budget they need to burn. See AI's Panther thread. Also not all 'Police' bikes were ever police bikes, although this is mostly a Harley thing.
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Jul 18, 2013 15:37
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