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Gruffalo Soldier posted:The OP mentions a couple of times the difference between 128GB and 120GB but doesn't seem to expand on it. Is there a difference and if so is one favoured? Why?
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# ? Jul 13, 2013 00:58 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 11:04 |
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Thank you for the comprehensive answers Looking around, the Atlas seems to be rarer than hen's teeth in the UK. There are a lot of OEM Intel 525s on eBay, but at about £130 for a 120GB drive it's about $1.63/GB! There are a few of these guys available from Kingston: http://www.kingston.com/en/ssd/s#sms200s3, does anyone have any experience with them? The data sheet http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/sms200s3_en.pdf looks alright to me but I'm no expert in these matters
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# ? Jul 13, 2013 12:52 |
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Kingston (like ADATA) is only a small step above OCZ, they don't have the same failure rates but I don't think they're as trustworthy as a brand that buys validated memory. You might want to consider holding off until you can afford a decent 240/256GB model, especially if you're concerned about 120GB being enough space for all of your applications.
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# ? Jul 13, 2013 18:31 |
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Fair enough, that's the conclusion I was coming to myself to be honest. Thanks again for the advice.
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# ? Jul 14, 2013 12:41 |
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Hello wise SSD Goons. I could use some advice. I bought a SanDisk Extreme 240GB when Newegg had them on sale a couple of months ago, and it has been nothing but grief. I would return it if NewEgg gave me the option, but the terms of the sale price forbid it. I'm ready to just throw the loving thing away and go back to my previous SSD: An Intel 330 120GB. The Intel was rock solid; I used it for a year and a half and never saw so much as a hiccup. I still have the Intel (which had Windows 7 on it, but now has Ubuntu), so I *could* go back, but I like the extra breathing room that 240GB gives me. That plus re-installing everything again would be a real chore. The problem is, I cannot go more than an hour or two without my desktop locking up on me. Usually I can fix it with a soft reboot, but sometimes I have to shut down the power altogether. Sometimes the lock-up happens in as little as five minutes. It all depends. I typically have to reboot several times a day. If I'm lucky, I notice the "freeze" coming in time, and if I don't touch the mouse, it might "recover" after about twenty seconds, which gives me time to properly shut down my apps. And I always have to shut down; if I try to keep going, it will inevitably have a hard lock-up about 30 seconds later. Sometimes the "freeze" is just that the mouse stops moving, sometimes I get a reported error from the video driver crashing and restarting itself. More often than not, it doesn't matter what I do; it locks up, and I have to reboot. I should note here that I originally tried to use Macrium Reflect to mirror from the old Intel to the new SanDisk. I knew things were off to a bad start when I fired up the SanDisk for the first time, but rather than seeing my desktop, Windows 7 refused to see anything from the keyboard. So instead, I formatted the SanDisk and installed Windows 7 from scratch. That plus re-installing all my apps chewed up a day on its own. I'd really hate to repeat the process just to go back to my original Intel. Also, that original problem with Windows 7 not seeing keystrokes? From time to time, that *still* happens after a reboot. Here's my hardware:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Power\PowerSettings\0012ee47-9041-4b5d-9b77-535fba8b1442\0b2d69d7-a2a1-449c-9680-f91c70521c60 I changed the value for this key from 1 to 2. The makes the "AHCI Link Power Management" option visible in Windows 7's "advanced" power settings dialog. So, for the "AHCI Link Power Management" option, for all my power configurations, I changed the option from just "HIPM to "HIPM + DIPM". I tried that for a while, and was still getting the lock-ups, so after a few days I said gently caress it, and changed all my power settings to "active", which disables HIPM & DIPM altogether. And with that, I'm out of ideas. Any recommendations before I just rip out the SanDisk and take a hammer to it?
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 04:02 |
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Have you considered that it may not be the SSD at all? I only ask because that's an error profile common to current nVidia drivers. (It was supposed to be gone in the latest betas but it still shows up for some people. It's extra problems because it can take as long as six days to happen. And it's relatively more common on 560 Ti cards. Ask me how I know.) Try rolling your GPU drivers back to ... I can't believe I'm going to say this, but the Windows Update version (311.06).
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 04:10 |
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Have you considered that it may not be the SSD at all? Thanks! I'll try that out. I was implicating the SanDisk since that was the only piece of hardware that changed, but upon reflection, the UI for the NVidia driver completely changed after that as well, so that's new too. Just as well, since I don't care about anything their annoying "Experience" stuff does anyway.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 04:21 |
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What anti-virus are you using, out of curiosity? I had a problem just like this recently, after a day I threw my hands up and bought a new SSD, cloned my drive, it still had the problem. (Old was a totally reliable Intel 320 120GB, new 256GB Samsung 830). So I trashed my anti-virus because it seemed to be crashing a lot in the logs, and since then, I haven't had a problem. Who knows, maybe it'll come back, maybe that was pure coincidence. I installed MSE which seems to be working OK. But yeah, display driver sounds like a good culprit also. For all we know it could have been a recent Windows update the combination of our hardware that caused a problem. I find it very odd that I had a similar problem recently. I have the same board and CPU, but I think I'm doing bullshit pattern searching that's not of significance at this point. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Jul 15, 2013 |
# ? Jul 15, 2013 11:17 |
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HalloKitty posted:What anti-virus are you using, out of curiosity? Right now I'm running MSSE, Malwarebytes, and SuperAntiSpyware. This is possibly overkill. I haven't evaluated my anti-virus setup for some time, so I'm overdue for that. It's probably too early to tell, but rolling back to 311.06 has resulted in no lockups so far, which is rare for a few hours. So, the video driver might have done the trick. And with that being said, this isn't the Haus so I'll shut up and stay on topic about SSDs.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 11:59 |
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If the system does start locking up again and you're sure it's the SSD's fault, contact SanDisk and get an RMA. Warranties exist to cover this stuff.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 14:23 |
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A friend is looking for a ~64gb SSD to put a WinXP Pro installation (yeah I know) and a little bit of data on. The board is apparently only Sata 2. He sent me links to this SanDisk (64GB, ~50€) and this Kingston (60GB, ~60€). I've looked at the availablity of drives from the OP in that range and the only ones I could get are the SanDisk Extreme for ~70€ and the Intel 520 for ~90€ (basically out of the question). e:/ also Intel 330 for ~77€ Is one of the two SSDs ok or should I try to sell him on the SD Extreme (and an upgrade to Win7 I guess)?
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 15:28 |
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Sereri posted:A friend is looking for a ~64gb SSD to put a WinXP Pro installation (yeah I know) and a little bit of data on. The board is apparently only Sata 2.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 18:02 |
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NadaTooma posted:Right now I'm running MSSE, Malwarebytes, and SuperAntiSpyware. This is possibly overkill. I haven't evaluated my anti-virus setup for some time, so I'm overdue for that. Have you tried to run benchmarks on your SSD? I actually had to RMA a brand new intel 520 240GB when I first assembled my mini-ITX system. I would get random freezes in windows at much higher frequency then you are experiencing. So I ran some benchmark on my SSD and I noticed that it would just "hang" at random times thus making the benchmarking unusually long. If you have something like HDtune just watch your drive as it goes through benchmark, it should at no point just stop running. This took me a long time to track down, since I was so convinced that it must not be my SSD but rather it was something else on the system. Goes to show you that even reputable brand can have issues (that said, Intel's RMA is excellent, and of the 4 intel SSDs that I have owned this is the first one that had any issue, so this really shouldn't count as a black mark for Intel).
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 20:11 |
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lethial posted:I actually had to RMA a brand new intel 520 240GB when I first assembled my mini-ITX system. I would get random freezes in windows at much higher frequency then you are experiencing. I think this is possibly to do with having it hooked up to a SATAII port. Hook it up to a SATAIII 6GBps port, and it stops happening. This happened to me in an old AMD system with SATAII, AND a brand new Haswell system. With it plugged in the 3Gbps (Intel!) port, it would stutter now and then for a significant amount of time. Switch it to 6GBps, boom, smooth. (It was a clean install of 7, SSD less than half full). vv I should mention, this is with an Intel 520 60GB, has no firmware updates available (no, I didn't buy a 60GB SSD, it's in my work PC). HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jul 15, 2013 |
# ? Jul 15, 2013 20:23 |
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HalloKitty posted:I think this is possibly to do with having it hooked up to a SATAII port. Hook it up to a SATAIII 6GBps port, and it stops happening. Yeah, that is what I thought too, but unfortunately after a lot of testing (installing windows on another drive using the same sata port and then connect up the ssd drive to test it; and testing the ssd individually in a external enclosure) to fully convince me that the unthinkable happened and my drive is bad (I was so convinced that it was my mobo, in particular the sata ports). Though that is good to know, about the sataII ports, since a friend of mine was telling me that his Haswell system isn't loading up LoL as fast as he was expecting despite it being installed on a SSD.
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 20:35 |
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I was hoping someone could tell me if there's any way to recover the data from a dead SSD. A couple years ago my work upgraded our SSDs and we got to keep the old ones, which were the OCZ Agility 2. Yeah... So since the drive still worked, I popped it into my girlfriend's pc for very casual use. Knowing OCZs reputation from this very thread, I warned her to back up everything she didn't want to lose. Guess who didn't listen to me? The drive crapped out last week. I bought her a new drive for her computer, but there were some photos on the OCZ she really wants. Connecting the dead drive to my computer, it's showing an orange light on the drive, and my BIOS doesn't even recognize it. Is there ANY way to recover the data, or am I SOL?
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 22:06 |
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caiman posted:Connecting the dead drive to my computer, it's showing an orange light on the drive, and my BIOS doesn't even recognize it. Is there ANY way to recover the data, or am I SOL?
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# ? Jul 15, 2013 22:08 |
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lethial posted:Have you tried to run benchmarks on your SSD? Thanks, I'll try that. I'll also dig up the motherboard diagram and double-check that I have the SSD hooked into the best possible SATA port for it.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 01:35 |
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Does Sandisk have a windows online tool to update firmware? I've created a boot USB with Toolkit a couple of times now & it doesn't work.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 06:49 |
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dud root posted:Does Sandisk have a windows online tool to update firmware? I've created a boot USB with Toolkit a couple of times now & it doesn't work. Nope. Also I don't think I'll ever not at the idea of updating firmware from inside a running OS. You may be stuck burning an actual CD for this. I know I was.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 06:56 |
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Nope. Also I don't think I'll ever not at the idea of updating firmware from inside a running OS.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 08:04 |
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The former isn't a case you can rely on as a part manufacturer; as for the latter, you'll probably notice a few differences between a bare essentials bootstrap environment and one with full resource allocation, not necessarily predictable contention management, and all of the processes and data you care about.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 11:42 |
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How can I have all of my User folders like My Documents/Music/Pictures stored on my secondary drive but still accessible as if they were actually on my primary OS SSD? Will there be problems with applications still trying to install stuff on my /c drive even if things are supposedly rerouted to my secondary drive? For example, will iTunes poo poo itself trying to use the stuff in My Music on /c if the music is really on /d? Or a video game looking for save games in My Documents on /c and not finding it on /d?
Shimrra Jamaane fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jul 16, 2013 |
# ? Jul 16, 2013 22:31 |
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User document folders can have their location set in their properties, and the vast majority of applications (even drivers) will put things where they need to go. iTunes and your favorite game should be fine. AppData and things like it in your user folder, and Program Files, can technically be moved with a Windows OOBE configuration script, but they really really shouldn't be.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 22:35 |
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You should probably not do that though, as that will lead to your HDD becoming a bottleneck when applications write to your profile. A better solution is to leave your profile on the SSD and just not use your profile for things that are too large to fit. For example, if you have 30GB if photos, put them on D:\Pictures instead of your My Pictures folder.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 22:57 |
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I don't mean to redirect my entire user profile with all of the app data, just My Documents/Music/Photos/Videos. How about if I leave My Documents alone for all the programs that use it and just redirect My Music/Videos/Pictures (IE: the stuff that won't really matter with an SSD)? I just want to be able to use /c/users/(my name) to be able to see all my stuff rather than going through a bunch of folders on /D.
Shimrra Jamaane fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jul 16, 2013 |
# ? Jul 16, 2013 23:02 |
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Just make sure you disable drive spindown or you'll have a few second delay every time you access those folders or open Windows Explorer as the drive spins up.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 23:25 |
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Shimrra Jamaane posted:I don't mean to redirect my entire user profile with all of the app data, just My Documents/Music/Photos/Videos. How about if I leave My Documents alone for all the programs that use it and just redirect My Music/Videos/Pictures (IE: the stuff that won't really matter with an SSD)? I just want to be able to use /c/users/(my name) to be able to see all my stuff rather than going through a bunch of folders on /D. As already stated, just go into the properties for each of those folders and use the "Location" tab. It will even move the folders for you if there's stuff in there already.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 23:34 |
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Factory Factory posted:As already stated, just go into the properties for each of those folders and use the "Location" tab. It will even move the folders for you if there's stuff in there already. But what about what Alereon is talking about?
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 23:48 |
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Spin down? That's in power options.
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# ? Jul 16, 2013 23:49 |
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What are your overall thoughts on the Samsung 840 Pro 512GB? Other than the price. Tuco22 fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jul 17, 2013 |
# ? Jul 17, 2013 00:10 |
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Tuco22 posted:What are your overall thoughts on the Samsung 840 Pro 512GB?
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 00:20 |
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Any idea how long until PCIe SSDs hit the enthusiast market? I was hoping sooner rather than later thanks to Samsung's Ultrabook push but I can't dig up any info.
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 06:18 |
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Alereon posted:It is one of the best SSDs on the market. Pretty much the only downside of those Samsung drives (aside from cost) is that they don't maintain their performance as well under heavy load, when filled, or when TRIM isn't operating properly. If you have an application that requires excellent performance consistency you should pick something else, but for normal PC desktop usage they are great drives. Sounds good enough to me. Thanks
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 07:00 |
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Micron made an announcement about the latest generation of IMFT NAND at a 16nm process. It looks like a straight die-shrink of 20nm NAND, i.e. 16 KB pages, 512 pages per block. Performance and P/E cycles should be "similar" to 20nm NAND, but if it follows the same trend as the 25nm to 20nm die shrink, both maximum and typical latencies will get a bit longer (the 25 to 20 jump was about 15%-25%, but luckily this was hidden by better controllers). Micron is being hush-hush about the actual storage density for some reason, but it should be more dense, which means cheaper. They're saying full production by the end of the year, which means drives about this time in 2014.
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 13:01 |
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Factory Factory posted:Micron is being hush-hush about the actual storage density for some reason, but it should be more dense, which means cheaper.
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 17:21 |
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Right now die shrinks seem to be mostly keeping pace with demand, meaning that prices are remaining stable. If we were still on 25nm NAND I expect we'd be looking at higher prices because supply would be outpaced by rising demand.
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 18:08 |
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The bit in the OP about the Crucial M4 being a bad drive, is that mostly due to the past firmware issues and it no longer being a good value? In other words, if I've got one and it's on one of the stable firmware versions, is there any reason to replace/upgrade it other than needing more space? Also, if I'm still running the 000F firmware, should I go ahead and upgrade to the latest?
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 21:16 |
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If you have a Crucial M4 and are not having problems, there's no need to replace it. We just don't want anyone buying Crucial drives today because there are no guaranteed, trouble-free firmware revisions and no expectation of having them in the future (including on new and future models), and the value proposition for the M4 is pretty poor compared to current-gen drives. I would recommend trying the latest firmware for the performance, compatibility, and stability improvements, but keep a copy of your current firmware so you can roll back if you experience issues.
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 21:51 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 11:04 |
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Speaking of M4s, if I'm on 000F and I'm having no problems, should I bother upgrading? If so, which version should I upgrade to?
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# ? Jul 17, 2013 22:43 |